curious to see how you make that last bend with the throttle cable- re-using the bellcrank from previous iteration?
Yes. It will be the easiest solution and I can use the cables I have. The TB's bracket would bring the cables over the valve cover (ugly). And the current cables don't fit the Dodge bracket holes.
Pretty close now.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-25-2018).]
Looks like you've got a GM knock sensor screwed in there; how did you choose a knock sensor, since there are a plethora of options? [very incomplete list.....] 10456288 (4.3 and 5.7) 10456287 (5.0) 10456549 (7.4) 10456208 (3.1) 10456209 (2.2 pushrod) I have heard the "bore diameter" thing before, but I'm not convinced.
[This message has been edited by KurtAKX (edited 07-28-2017).]
We've been fighting with it for almost 2 months and just couldn't get it right. It was finally pointed out that the jumper settings to configure the NVRAM board to run the TBI probably weren't right. (didn't get a PDF with the thing)
So once I get that corrected, it may be "start from scratch" again.
BUT... it may be better and faster progress.
One of the cleanest SD4 builds that I've seen. As for tuning are you scanning and taking a log? Those early C3 ECM's can be tricky to tune but the guys on the Moates forum seem to have the process down pat.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
One of the cleanest SD4 builds that I've seen. As for tuning are you scanning and taking a log? Those early C3 ECM's can be tricky to tune but the guys on the Moates forum seem to have the process down pat.
I got most of the base parameters in my BIN in pretty good shape. Got my fuel grams/second figured out. Idles great at 13.5 - 14.0 AFR. RPM was be too high when engine started hot or cold - fixed that. Took a long time for RPM to come down to idle from hot or cold start - fixed that. Engine took too long for RPM to come down to idle from blipping throttle - fixed decay rate. Other minor changes in base parameters at this point only. Haven't touched any fuel/spark tables yet.
So now the SD4 starts good, idles quite well for 'lumpy' engine and is quite driveable. I will be driving with TunerPro RT and recording Datalogs to to see what it needs in more detail.
Solved a minor problem I was having with ECM throwing a Code 24 for VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). CEL (Check Engine Light) would come on at about 4800 rpm when accelerating and engine would buck.
Here is what playing back TunerPro DataLog showed ECM was seeing. I'm accelerating "floored" (See TPS, MAP, and RPM) in 2nd gear +60kph when ECM suddenly thinks I'm at 0 and cuts fuel.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-06-2019).]
Glad to here it's running better. Does it seem to have more power ? How about mpg. A sound video would be cool. Any tips on your intake mods for the injectors, like hole sizes and depth if stepped. and angles. Keep up the great craftsmanship, and ingenuity.
------------------
85 GT 3.4 14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06 Unknown New 4T60/3.42
I'm brand new here!! First let me say that this is a BEAUTIFUL project!! Very well executed!!
I have a couple of questions. I'm doing research for a project of my own and have already gleaned some great information from this thread. I've read it from beginning to end and it's a great thread!! I'm building an older 153" Chevy II engine and I'm searching for a roller camshaft for my project. I know that the cam bearings and timing gear are the same for both engines and that the crankshafts can be interchanged with a little work. I also know that the very early "Iron Dukes" used the same camshaft and lifters as the 153s.
Here is the first question: Were the lifter bores on the later crossflow Iron Duke and SD blocks different from the earlier castings? Did they change the lifter bore angle or placement?
The second question is for the original poster. Again!! I'm impressed with the level of fit and finish of your project and with your determination to get this working. This is NOT criticism!! I'm just curious!! Have you considered having a little extra material added to the narrow spots on your header flange?? I had to do this to the header on my 153, but it CURED the exhaust leak and gasket damage problems.
Like I said. I'm new here!! I hope I can pick up some much needed information and education here. I'm an experienced mechanic and fabricator, (retired) with fifty years worth of knowledge and training. I owned one of the first Fieros in Nashville, TN, a 4spd LE model. The GTs and such came out later. Maybe I'll build another one someday.
------------------ Never use a minor caliber bullet on a major caliber opponent!!
[This message has been edited by Blackwater (edited 02-14-2018).]
I appreciate the response! I've gained a little more info since that last post! The valve train layout is different between the later crossflow head and the older unit. The valves in the newer head are I E I E E I E I. The older head is E I I E E I I E. The later head COULD be adapted fairly easily, BUT I already have an older head ported, polished, new valves installed with new keepers, springs, retainers, larger stainless valves, guide plates, and professionally assembled.
I talked to Geoff at Colt Cams. If I can find a blank, he'll grind a cam for me!!
Thanks again for all the information you've put together!!
The last tuning I was doing with TunerPro showed that I needed MORE AIR above 5000rpm.
So I got the Dodge 5.2/5.9 V8 throttle body (OEM by Holley) with it's bigger 2" bores on the right. It's identical to the V6 TB otherwise, so the only other thing I needed to do was bore the adapter plate to match.
While I was in there, I decided to make the throttle wheel look better too.
I test drove it the other day. I think this is the perfect combination. Now it's a matter of fine tuning with TunerPro RT.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]
So after a summer of dialing in tune, how is the performance? Has she been on the dyno for a HP check or have you done any timed 0-60 and/or 1/4 mile runs to estimate the horsepower?
Also, I'm intrigued by your finding that you needed more intake. I'd read from several sources that the V6 dual TBI can flow about 490 cfm. I don't know what the SD heads will flow, but if it is in the 300 cfm range, on the surface it would seem like the the 490cfm flow would be more than capable of feeding anything the heads could handle. Any idea what accounts for your finding? I'm now wondering if I should be on the look out for the big 454 TBI, as it will flow over 600 cfm to put in my SD4.
[This message has been edited by edfiero (edited 11-26-2018).]
Last month, took the Indy for a drive from Calgary to Red Deer and return for a small Fiero meet. That's about 145 kms (90 miles) each way at speeds averaging 110 kph (70 mph)
The SD4 seems terrible on gas in the city. The fuel gauge needle seems to have moved every time you look down at it.
Keep in mind, the 84 has a small tank and you can't avoid "stepping on it" with the SD4. So I honestly didn't know what my mileage would be like for the trip.
Anyways, after the round trip and a refill I got 36 mpg (30 mpg to US gallon) with the SD4 Indy This was the longest drive I'd taken it on with the new MPFI system I built.
My GT with the 3.4 V6 Vortech S/C got 31 mpg (26 mpg to US gallon) on the same trip.
------------------ My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)
I finally finished catching up with this thread. Absolutely unbelievable amount of work you put into this, standing ovation! Thank you for sharing with us.
I have an SD4 engine that’s been sitting in my shop for a long time. I wanted to build a super duty Indy but after reading everything in here I think I will pass! I don’t think I have the patience.
I wanted to build a super duty Indy but after reading everything in here I think I will pass!
Find an Edlebrock 2-bbl intake manifold and run a 2-bbl carburetor. Had I done that at the beginning, most likely I'd still have that setup on the engine. The 4-bbl was just unworkable... could not eliminate "bog" when you punched it.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 11-01-2019).]
Just read through your whole thread and, wow! Great job on the restoration! Looks fantastic!
When I got to the part where you were having carb issues kept thinking "Why doesn't he just go efi?" I've done about 5 Megasquirt installs and this is a perfect use for one. Looks like you have it pretty well figured out using GM stuff so great job there! Again, fantastic build!
... kept thinking "Why doesn't he just go efi?" I've done about 5 Megasquirt installs and this is a perfect use for one. Looks like you have it pretty well figured out using GM stuff so great job there! Again, fantastic build!
Thank you...
A lot of it is "if only I knew THEN what I know NOW..."
And... the tiny Bosch EV14 injectors that make the MPFI I built possible didn't exist before fall of 2012.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-08-2022).]
I don't know if anyone he collects rare Fiero Super Duty Literature, this came from a Pontiac service managers estate sale, very interesting stuff. Plus look at my other auctions I have listed some other Indy pace car stuff. https://www.ebay.com/itm/84...9:g:JW8AAOSwZehgBMJe
Just making the rounds with the Indy to local car shows these days. People are very receptive to seeing and talking with us about the Fiero. (Indy and GT next to it are mine )
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-09-2021).]
I found some Indy pics I wanted to add here. My Indy is #163 of production and one of the 200 Indy Parade Cars. I even have the original license plate that was on the car THAT day.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 10-18-2022).]
I know the Indy is a show car but how is it running long term with the $12p efi? Beautiful car.
Thanks. Every bit as driveable as any stock engine would be, and 30mpg on the highway.
The $12P system is working equally well on my GT's 3.4L with Vortech supercharger. In fact, it was because it worked so well on the GT, that I decided to build the MPFI for the Indy's SD4.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 02-25-2023).]