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Ticking Started After Oil Change by Mike85k
Started on: 10-07-2025 06:40 PM
Replies: 51 (665 views)
Last post by: Mike85k on 10-27-2025 06:45 PM
81 4.9L X-11
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Report this Post10-26-2025 07:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 81 4.9L X-11Send a Private Message to 81 4.9L X-11Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Morning,

Just saw this thread and didn't see any mention of zinc additive needed for flat tappet cam motors... The only off the shelf oil that has it is diesel/ truck oil. It's been 30 years since they stopped putting it in car oil, so it's almost a forgotten topic. I run Rotella or Delvac 15-40 with 1/2 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in all my 2.8Ls. The Lucas is mainly because they go long periods between drives so it helps keep an oil film on everything. Both Rotella and Delvac are synthetic blends and Rotella is available in full synthetic (I run this in my Turbo LS4).

Good luck!
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Report this Post10-26-2025 10:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Vintage-NutSend a Private Message to Vintage-NutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Just saw this thread and didn't see any mention of zinc additive needed for flat tappet cam motors... The only off the shelf oil that has it is diesel/ truck oil.

Not True...but Yes, 'What' Engine Oil Really MATTERS and in my world, I never use "additives" in my engines.

Of course, the Fiero V6 has flat-tappets and needed "Zinc" or ZDDP to protect the cam/lifters from metal-to-metal contact in the '80's.

Unfortunately, ZDDP {zinc and phosphorus} also creates a film inside of catalytic converts which "poisons" the CAT and the API SF rating is now considered obsolete.

So, MANY 'modern' motor oils have less ZDDP now to extend the catalytic converter life, however, many use moly and in some cases titanium to prevent wear.

The API SJ rating is current for 2001 and older automotive engines.

Regrettably, it is very hard to get the 'true' amount of the ppm quantities of zinc, phos, moly and titanium to prevent wear,.......

As an example, which I use in my V6 is conventional Castrol GTX 10W-40.
900 PPM Zinc or 610 PPM?
700 PPM Phosphorus or 750 PPM?
{BTW - in the link below, some Castrol GTX oils are shown in the OUTSTANDING section, however 10W-40 isn't included on their list. }

FACT: ZDDP is consumed/sacrificed A LITTLE AT A TIME as needed by the heat and load on mating parts.
So, I change my engine oils more often than waiting...

--------------------------------------------
PS

 
quote
Zinc Myth and Test Data
Oil's "wear protection" capability that was tested here; the higher the psi value, the BETTER the wear protection. And this applies to ANY engine, including High Performance flat tappet engines.

*Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection
*75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection
*60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection
*Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection

This list in the link below shows nearly one hundred oils tested!
https://www.speed-talk.com/...o%20metal%20contact.

------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 10-26-2025).]

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Mike85k
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Report this Post10-26-2025 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike85kSend a Private Message to Mike85kEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Lots of interesting chatter in here. I've learned more about oil and zinc and more than anywhere else, good stuff.

From my side, drove the car around town yesterday, was actually running really good, except for the ticking. I brought it to a trunk or treat even hosted by my work, it was a nice event. Lots of comments about not seeing a Fiero for years. I dressed it up as a hot wheel car, gave out hot wheels and car related candy/stickers and setup a simple track, it was fun.

Today so far I was able to remove the upper intake manifold. While doing that I discovered that the EGR plate on the intake manifold (not the exhaust side the side near the throttle body) was completely jammed up, like no way anything was getting through that. I broke through it and will soak it in some degreaser to clean that up. Its not tuned for an EGR delete so I'm sure that wasn't great, but I don't think causing anything too serious.
Other than things are going OK so far, just slow. Even after getting all the bolts off the manifold I'm surprised how hard it was to break loose.
I'm going to attempt to get a bit deeper today, we'll see how everything goes. I know I'm looking for loose rockers, will I have to remove lifters to look for signs of issue there? Or is there something I should look for in place?
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Report this Post10-26-2025 12:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike85kSend a Private Message to Mike85kEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Mike85k

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Member since Jan 2025
Im starting to think this was actually the tick.
As I looked again at this plate and the EGR tube that's not supposed to come apart.
Looks like it jammed up then busted loose, then once the EGR opened up I bet that pips is bouncing around against the plate and manifold.
Didn't cause a vacuum leak because the plate was so jammed up.
That would also explain why it would get better with some RPMs, the more exhaust volume probably pushed it away from the plate more.
That also explains why I was burning through ICM's as it was dumping hot exhaust gas right by the distributor causing even more heat in that area.





Whats everybody think? Was it that simple or do I need to get into the listers/rockers still?
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Report this Post10-26-2025 02:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Vintage-NutSend a Private Message to Vintage-NutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


Replace the broken EGR Tube and then test....

Rodney still have them:
https://rodneydickman.com/p....php?products_id=314

https://rodneydickman.com/p....php?products_id=308
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Patrick
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Report this Post10-26-2025 02:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mike85k:

Im starting to think this was actually the tick.
As I looked again at this plate and the EGR tube that's not supposed to come apart.
Looks like it jammed up then busted loose, then once the EGR opened up I bet that pips is bouncing around against the plate and manifold.
Didn't cause a vacuum leak because the plate was so jammed up.
That would also explain why it would get better with some RPMs, the more exhaust volume probably pushed it away from the plate more.



What the heck is a "pips"? I can't say I fully understand your explanation.

If it was me, I'd replace the EGR tube, put it back together, and see if the problem's been resolved.

This could've been a whole lot simpler if you had followed the advice from the first page of responses to use a stethoscope (a short length of garden hose was suggested, but a mechanics stethoscope is very inexpensive) to narrow down where the "tick" was coming from.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

Seriously guys, spring for a whole five bucks and get a proper mechanic's stethoscope.

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-26-2025).]

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Vintage-Nut
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Report this Post10-26-2025 03:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Vintage-NutSend a Private Message to Vintage-NutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ignore the negative Mike; Good Job!
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Report this Post10-26-2025 03:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:

Ignore the negative...


Most of us are adults here, and can handle a bit of real world friendly advice.
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Mike85k
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Report this Post10-26-2025 03:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike85kSend a Private Message to Mike85kEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks vintage-nut!
I did try that stethoscope and posted about it on Oct 10th. I didn't hear anything on the valve covers which I questioned, must have just gotten lost in all the comments. I wonder if I broke it loose, or at least looser, when I changed the distributor.
Anyway I ordered the EGR tube from the fiero store, hopefully it's that simple!
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Report this Post10-26-2025 03:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mike85k:

I did try that stethoscope and posted about it on Oct 10th.


 
quote
Originally posted by Mike85k:

When this started I tried using a mechanics stethoscope against the valve covers to see if I could hear it, and I dont her the ticking louder on the valve cover. I think I should? To be fair I've never used one before this, but I assume I just press the metal end against the valve cover over each cylinder and listen. I have light ticking, but not like the load tick you can hear in the video.


Ah, sorry... I got fooled when I saw the garden hose suggestion made later in the thread. In regards to using the mechanic's stethoscope, although my image above doesn't show one, the "horn" also needs to be used to locate sounds that aren't internal to the engine.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-26-2025).]

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Report this Post10-27-2025 09:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Vintage-NutSend a Private Message to Vintage-NutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
HEY Mike
Since you removed the upper plenum, this is the 'perfect time' to check on the plastic vacuum pipes under the manifold, especially the EGR valve vacuum line as the exhaust 'cooks' the plastic.

These plastic vacuum lines can lose strength from prolonged exposure to high temperatures making them brittle and prone to breaking.


Both Rodney and TFS sells metal vacuum lines to replace the factory lines:

https://rodneydickman.com/p...o.php?products_id=86
https://www.fierostore.com/.../Detail.aspx?s=52389

Merely A Thought...

PS - IF you decide to replace the plastic; my suggestion is to use the factory ENDS as the metal tubing doesn't allow much moment when assembling the upper plenum.

------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 10-27-2025).]

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Report this Post10-27-2025 06:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike85kSend a Private Message to Mike85kEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That's a good call, the PCV line is pretty rough, others look ok but hard to tell what micro cracks might be in there.

I tried cleaning up the plenum. Hitting the inside with throttle body cleaner and spraying it out. I let the whole thing soak in warm water and dawn. The Dawn messed up the paint! So I guess I'll be stripping and repainting that while I'm at it. . .
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