Hi All, I purchased this GT back in February of this year, I am told I am the third owner, I just broke 93k miles on it. I changed the oil last weekend and used Pennzoil 5w30 full synthetic, and this ticking started at that time. I used a Fram xtra guard filter. The oil level seems to be right just past the operating range on the dipstick. This sounds louder from below the car, not from the valve covers as I would expect if it was a sticking valve. Any recommendations? Should I switch to a heavier oil? Need any additives?
We have discussed several possible issues. I suggested that he steer away from any oil additive at this stage, but its his call.
I am thinking bad lifter(s), maybe worn wrist pins, maybe worn rod or crankshaft bearings.
As you can see and hear, he tried to feather the RPMs to see if he could get the ticking to subside - I call this "floating" a bearing as I once blew out a rod bearing and I was able to limp the car home by getting the RPMs just right to "float" the rod on the bad bearing (for minimal noise). It was a last ditch effort, if I left it by the roadside in Bridgeport Connecticut in the 1990s it would have been stripped.
Paul and I have been talking and he pointed me to notice that my oil pressure is showing high. Does that correlate with a stuck lifter? Should I run seafoam or other additive in the oil to help? Is it safe to drive if it doesn't get worse?
Definitely doesn't sound like a "bottom end" noise. I would agree that it sounds more like a stuck lifter, but it's also kind of "random".
Don't know what to say about the high oil pressure reading. If something is blocking the oil flow, it might cause the gauge to read high, and might cause the rest of the engine to be oil starved. I believe the oil sender is after the pump, but before all the rest of the oiling system. But I could easily be wrong. It's been a while since I paid attention to that.
As an aside, I haven't heard anything good about Fram filters, lately, although I don't know about the different "levels" they sell. I might suggest a Mobil1 or a Wix. Just a personal preference. (This is really a topic for another thread. It could potentially open a huge can of worms. Not my intention.)
I agree, Frame filters are not what they were in the 1980s. I use NAPA in my Fieros. I use Wix on my zeroturn mower. Wix are made in Mexico but their quality is very good.
The Oil Pressure sending units are not reliable. The resistive wiper inside wears quickly and shows false readings. When they get real bad, the gauge may peg high.
I agree, a failing lifter would sound more rhythmic at idle.
I am not in front of the engine but this ticking showed up after an oil change.
For a light ticking, I would drive it off, but Mike's ticking is loud.
Maybe an oil additive may help, but the oil would need to be changed immediately after the treatment. Your thoughts?
I had a bad main bearing many years ago (car overheated from a failed water pump, etc.). It resulted in lower oil pressure at the top... which resulted in a similar ticking noise that you're getting now from the valve train (of course, I had other sounds too).
It makes sense to me that if you're seeing really high oil pressure readings, that perhaps something is blocking your oil passage which is resulting in a high-oil pressure (before the blockage but after the pump) and thus starving the valve train like Raydar said.
Also to echo what he said, it definitely does not sound like a bottom-end sound. I've had that (as I mentioned earlier) and that's much deeper.
My advice would be to:
1 - Change the oil filter immediately (doesn't matter, something cheap) 2 - Use engine flush (Run 5-8 minutes): https://shop.advanceautopar...liquid-mf3/7120030-p 3 - Change the oil filter to a WIX or a Purolator, and change the oil to your oil of choice.
I'm thinking that should clear it up...
EDIT: My thinking is that maybe the oil hadn't been changed in a while, and there's a lot of gunk in there. A lifter shouldn't just fail like that, unless the previous oil was much heavier weight oil. How many miles does it have? If the problem still persists after doing a flush and oil change, I'd take the valve covers off and check the valve lash on the valves.
[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 10-08-2025).]
Mike85k: I changed the oil last weekend and used Pennzoil 5w30 full synthetic, and this ticking started at that time. I used a Fram xtra guard filter. The oil level seems to be right just past the operating range on the dipstick. Any recommendations? Should I switch to a heavier oil? Need any additives? Paul and I have been talking and he pointed me to notice that my oil pressure is showing high. Does that correlate with a stuck lifter?
IMHO: I'm a conventional oil guy; use 10W-40 in my V6 and never use oil additives to avoid negative effects.
Before the oil change, no 'ticking'? Do you know 'what' oil/weight the previous owner used? Did you notice the oil pressure before and after the oil change? {Don't trust the dash sending unit; check it with an accurate gauge}
------------------ Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles
I've never checked the pressure with anything but the dash gauge, it did used to settle to right around the midway mark (I think its 40?) but it has been staying much higher. Hard to say for sure as I havent really driven it, its just idles for us to take some recordings and try to diagnose the sound.
So previous owner responded, he says he ran 20w-50.
Not sure why he ran so heavy. Not sure what to do with that info, I guess I try heavier weight too? I would think that's harder on the lifters ?
20W-50 is ridiculous for this engine. I'm guessing he's compensating for something in the engine that might not be great. I would still flush the engine (as I mentioned). I'd drop it down to 10W-40 like VintageNut recommended. 50 weight is just way too heavy an oil.
For those that do not understand multi-viscosity oil ratings....
Breaking Down the Rating The First Number (Cold Viscosity): This number (e.g., '10' in 10W-30) denotes the oil's flow at low temperatures, indicated by the "W" for "winter". A lower number means the oil is thinner and flows more easily, allowing for quicker lubrication of engine parts during cold starts and reducing wear. The "W": Stands for "winter," signifying the oil's performance in cold weather conditions. The Second Number (Hot Viscosity): This number (e.g., '30' in 10W-30) indicates the oil's viscosity at a standard operating temperature of 100°C (212°F). Higher numbers mean the oil remains thicker when hot, which is crucial for maintaining a strong lubricating film and protecting engine components from wear, especially in hot conditions. How It Works (and Why It Matters) Multi-grade oils contain viscosity-improving additives that allow the oil to perform like a thin, low-viscosity oil when cold and a thicker, higher-viscosity oil when hot. Cold Start: The additives don't expand much, so the oil behaves as a thinner, lower-number grade (e.g., 5W), allowing it to flow quickly and lubricate the engine. Hot Operation: As the engine heats up, the additives expand, increasing the oil's viscosity to the higher number (e.g., 30), which is necessary for proper hot-engine lubrication and sealing.
In the "old days", we used to run a mixture of engine oil and automatic transmission fluid (might've been 50/50) to unstick a stuck lifter. The high detergent content of the ATF is why it was used. I'm not suggesting that this method be used now, but running some sort of modern engine flush might do the trick.
Originally posted by Patrick: In the "old days", we used to run a mixture of engine oil and automatic transmission fluid (might've been 50/50) to unstick a stuck lifter. The high detergent content of the ATF is why it was used. I'm not suggesting that this method be used now, but running some sort of modern engine flush might do the trick.
Yeah, I remember someone back in the day telling me to do that. I'd always add like half a quart of ATF to any new (used) car I'd buy, and then change the oil a few weeks later.
For those that do not understand multi-viscosity oil ratings....
Breaking Down the Rating The First Number (Cold Viscosity): This number (e.g., '10' in 10W-30) denotes the oil's flow at low temperatures, indicated by the "W" for "winter". A lower number means the oil is thinner and flows more easily, allowing for quicker lubrication of engine parts during cold starts and reducing wear. The "W": Stands for "winter," signifying the oil's performance in cold weather conditions. The Second Number (Hot Viscosity): This number (e.g., '30' in 10W-30) indicates the oil's viscosity at a standard operating temperature of 100°C (212°F). Higher numbers mean the oil remains thicker when hot, which is crucial for maintaining a strong lubricating film and protecting engine components from wear, especially in hot conditions. How It Works (and Why It Matters) Multi-grade oils contain viscosity-improving additives that allow the oil to perform like a thin, low-viscosity oil when cold and a thicker, higher-viscosity oil when hot. Cold Start: The additives don't expand much, so the oil behaves as a thinner, lower-number grade (e.g., 5W), allowing it to flow quickly and lubricate the engine. Hot Operation: As the engine heats up, the additives expand, increasing the oil's viscosity to the higher number (e.g., 30), which is necessary for proper hot-engine lubrication and sealing.
This is a good visual as to the benefits of multi-viscosity oils - they provide more linear viscosity over a wide range of temperatures.
So I bought the engine cleaner recommended above, new filters (a cheap one and a wix) and some heavier oil. I'm traveling this weekend so won't be able to tackle this for a bit. But as I read more about stuck lifters the symptoms all fit. I do hear a slight misfire, low end torque seems low, expect for one thing. When this started I tried using a mechanics stethoscope against the valve covers to see if I could hear it, and I dont her the ticking louder on the valve cover. I think I should? To be fair I've never used one before this, but I assume I just press the metal end against the valve cover over each cylinder and listen. I have light ticking, but not like the load tick you can hear in the video.
