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Lt1 Fiero Owners. by str8maxn
Started on: 08-16-2021 04:32 PM
Replies: 49 (715 views)
Last post by: str8maxn on 10-12-2021 03:01 AM
str8maxn
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Report this Post08-16-2021 04:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello All a few questions,

It appears my LT1 ( from 1993 Vette) has an intake manifold leak. How hard would it be to do this work myself; on a scale of 1 -10 . Ten being very hard.
Any qotches?

How about changing spark plugs doable with the engine in the car?


Also, can someone tell me how hot the LT1 runs?

Thank you all for the feed back.

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 08-16-2021).]

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Report this Post08-16-2021 05:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mafv8Click Here to Email mafv8Send a Private Message to mafv8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by str8maxn:

Hello All a few questions,

It appears my LT1 ( from 1993 Vette) has an intake manifold leak. How hard would it be to do this work myself; on a scale of 1 -10 . Ten being very hard.
Any qotches?

How about changing spark plugs doable with the engine in the car?


Also, can someone tell me how hot the LT1 runs?

Thank you all for the feed back.



I have a non LT1 SBC in mine, changing plugs is easy from under the car, the front bank is harder, especially the one behind the alternator, due to access, but is doable. Mine runs about 180 degrees, with an electric water pump and a Champion Aluminum radiator, I also have a thermostatically controlled engine oil cooler. Not sure how complex the LT1 intake is, but it should all be acessable from the top, I have swapped manifolds on mine before, just keep track of all the parts/fasteners. And take pictures before you disassemble!

------------------
84SE, aero body, 4 speed and an injected 355 V8

[This message has been edited by mafv8 (edited 08-16-2021).]

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str8maxn
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Report this Post08-16-2021 05:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That engine bay is stunning.. Very nice.

My temp hit 240 degrees ; I take it this is high.

Stock fiero radiator and stock LT1 water pump.

JM
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Report this Post08-17-2021 06:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SteelSend a Private Message to SteelEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Maybe there's a member in your area with experience who can lend a hand and or just do it for you? It's not hard at all, very basic. But if you aren't sure of yourself and the fact you're even asking I'd hate to see you have issues.

There's some videos on youtube, no doubt, of intake/gasket replacements which are likely harder to access in F-body vehicles than in your Fiero. I'd take a peek at those and see if it's something you can handle.

[This message has been edited by Steel (edited 08-17-2021).]

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Report this Post08-17-2021 10:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Steel:

Maybe there's a member in your area with experience who can lend a hand and or just do it for you? It's not hard at all, very basic. But if you aren't sure of yourself and the fact you're even asking I'd hate to see you have issues.

There's some videos on youtube, no doubt, of intake/gasket replacements which are likely harder to access in F-body vehicles than in your Fiero. I'd take a peek at those and see if it's something you can handle.



I did check a few videos out. It seems straight forward. Just need to keep track of all the things I disconnect.
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Report this Post08-17-2021 02:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's a piece of cake to change intake gasket and spark plugs, so a 1.

With the stock water pump my 97 LT-1 ran pretty hot, but when I switched over to remote electric water pump, it runs about 180-190F while driving, and 220F when idling for a while but goes down immediately to 180-190F when the radiator fan kicks on.

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Report this Post08-17-2021 02:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Great to hear... that it's easy...

Any recommendations for Electric water pumps and radiator recommendations?
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La fiera
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Report this Post08-17-2021 03:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What PSI is your radiator cap rated at?
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Report this Post08-17-2021 04:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by La fiera:

What PSI is your radiator cap rated at?


Both are rated at 18 PSI.. The one on the radiator and the one at the rear tank .
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Report this Post08-17-2021 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by str8maxn:

Any recommendations for Electric water pumps and radiator recommendations?


Shop around and see what you feel comfortable with. I have a CSR 35gpm unit, with a Champion 3-core radiator, and stock fiero fan.

Edit: pump is 35gph not gpm

[This message has been edited by cyrus88 (edited 08-24-2021).]

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Report this Post08-17-2021 05:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cyrus88:


Shop around and see what you feel comfortable with. I have a CSR 35gpm unit, with a Champion 3-core radiator, and stock fiero fan.


Would you happen to have a pic of the CSR 35gpm unit installed or a part number.?

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 08-17-2021).]

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Report this Post08-17-2021 09:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't remember the PN. I think it was CSR 925 or someting like that.

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Report this Post08-17-2021 09:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
https://youtu.be/ujJxuR2XiYs

This is what I did on my Fiero. The water pump is installed at the front but you can istall it anywere you'd like. To avoid air pockets install it lower than the radiator like I did.
The pump is a BMW(Bosch) part number that can be found at any Advance Auto or NAPA or O'Reilys. It's been tryed on daily drivers and track BMWs. The one thing that'll you'll need is the controller for that specific pump. It's made by a company called Tecomotive in Germany. I don't even use a thermostat, it has a setting for that.

Disregard the stock water pump, I'm using the stock engine configuration. I cut the impeller off just to use it as a pulley.

[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 08-17-2021).]

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Report this Post08-18-2021 12:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cyrus88:

I don't remember the PN. I think it was CSR 925 or someting like that.



Cyrus88, is that a remote water pump?
If so, where did you place it?
Did you have to modify the LT1 water pump?
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Report this Post08-18-2021 12:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

str8maxn

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Member since Aug 2018
 
quote
Originally posted by La fiera:

https://youtu.be/ujJxuR2XiYs

This is what I did on my Fiero. The water pump is installed at the front but you can istall it anywere you'd like. To avoid air pockets install it lower than the radiator like I did.
The pump is a BMW(Bosch) part number that can be found at any Advance Auto or NAPA or O'Reilys. It's been tryed on daily drivers and track BMWs. The one thing that'll you'll need is the controller for that specific pump. It's made by a company called Tecomotive in Germany. I don't even use a thermostat, it has a setting for that.

Disregard the stock water pump, I'm using the stock engine configuration. I cut the impeller off just to use it as a pulley.




Thank you for providing this option. Did you have to use a relay? Do you have the wiring diagram?

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Report this Post08-18-2021 08:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by str8maxn:


Thank you for providing this option. Did you have to use a relay? Do you have the wiring diagram?


The controller comes with instructions on how to wire it and it also comes with the connector for the pump.
But to answer your question, no. It only uses a fuse for the pump but a relay for the fan control which I use the same OEM fan relay by running the signal wire from the controller to the fan relay.

[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 08-18-2021).]

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Report this Post08-18-2021 07:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes it's a remote WP.

I junked the stock pump and made adapters to accept 1/2-NPT. I also used a remote thermostat neck.

As you can see from my first picture, the pump is on the pass side behind the firewall and in front of the wheel well.
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Report this Post08-18-2021 08:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This pic shows the adapters and lack of stock WP.

If you can't make your own, shop for remote water pump adapters for LT-1 on the net. I remember seeing some, but can't remember where.

[This message has been edited by cyrus88 (edited 08-18-2021).]

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str8maxn
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Report this Post08-19-2021 11:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cyrus88:

Yes it's a remote WP.

I junked the stock pump and made adapters to accept 1/2-NPT. I also used a remote thermostat neck.

As you can see from my first picture, the pump is on the pass side behind the firewall and in front of the wheel well.



very clean looking.. do you have a pic of the remote thermostat neck?
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Report this Post08-19-2021 03:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not a very good pic, but I have posted this one before somewhere on this forum:

The remote thermostat is Moroso 63426. I drilled and tapped the side for the PCM temp sensor (the one that is normally on the LT-1 water pump)

The goose neck is a CSR swivel kind.

[This message has been edited by cyrus88 (edited 08-19-2021).]

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Report this Post08-19-2021 05:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have its older cousin the TPI, the Champion 3-core radiator is awesome. Even with working A/C it never gets hot. I have a 180 thermostat and 210 fan switch. Stock Fiero fan. Mine is running a short belt driven water pump, the pulley sticks out into the inner fender, I was able to space the plastic inner fender in some and make it weather tight from road spray and debris.
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Report this Post08-21-2021 08:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello all,

I must say, it was really easy to take the intake off. Job is definitely a 1 out of 10. I have a question regarding TB . The last owner had this fitting on the TB {RED ARROW and RED LINE) filled with gasket maker.
I take it he wanted to block it off. It was drawing vacuum none the less.

Can someone tell me where this goes to and what it does?
If one wanted to can I block it off again?




Here is a pic of the engine with intake off.
Anything I should be concern with?
Anything I should change now that the intake is off?




I used a burgundy scotch bright pad to clean the surface. Not sure if I should be using something else.


Thanks again and sorry for all the questions.
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Report this Post08-21-2021 08:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I believe that's for the EVAP control solenoid which needs a constant vaccum. The one on top (the bigger one) is for the PCV valve if I remember correctly. You can block it if you are not using emissions.
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Report this Post08-22-2021 08:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm missing an ORing on one of the fuel injectors and one is broken on another. Can I use green ORings on the injectors?



Also, I'm missing 6 of the fuel injectors retainers , are they needed?

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 08-22-2021).]

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Report this Post08-23-2021 08:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by str8maxn:


Cyrus88, is that a remote water pump?
If so, where did you place it?
Did you have to modify the LT1 water pump?



Can you tell me what wires go where on the BMW Pump?

I picked one up at the junk yard today... I have Red (+) and Brwon (-) and Orange and Purple >




I'd like to bench test is if possible.
Thank you .

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 08-23-2021).]

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Report this Post08-23-2021 08:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry, I have no idea about any BMW pumps. I don't know where you got that information.

Edit: Ok I see where you got that idea. It wasn't me, it was La Fiera that used BMW pump.

[This message has been edited by cyrus88 (edited 08-23-2021).]

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Report this Post08-23-2021 10:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello All, I was able to find a way to bench test it without a PWM controller.


From the BMW forums:

A description of each of the 4 pins and what each needs to see in order to control the pump speed. I

Pin 1 is battery voltage
Pin 2 is PWM signal
Pin 3 is a test/BSD signal
Pin 4 is Ground

Supplying +12volts to Pin 1 AND pin 2 (and grounding pin 4) should make it run full speed after a 'timeout' period of about 3-10 seconds. To vary speed based on PWM input on Pin 2, you need at least 3ms of an inturrupted high pulse in order for it to awake the pump. Keep that in mind when you decide on the PWM frequency and/or your duty cycle percent's.


The pump was taken from a 2008 BMW 328i its model CWA200.
Specifications:
Name: "Pierburg CWA200"
Operation voltage: 8-16 volts
Weight: approx. 2.15 kg
Current consumption: 15A (16.5A max.) / (approx. 0.2mA in standby mode)
Nominal diff. pressure: 0.45 bar *
Flow rate: ca. 116 l/min @ 0.45bar / 166 l/min @ 0.30bar
Speed: approx. 4500 rpm
Temperature range: -40°C – 128°C (water) / -40°C – 140°C (ambient)
Protection: IP67
FYI- used pump was only $20.00. I also ordered a generic PWM for another $20. I saw someone testing this pump with it and looks like it will work just fine.

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 08-23-2021).]

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Report this Post08-23-2021 10:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you would have followed my advice you would not be asking this question. You will never have proper cooling trying to be cheap and run 12 volts to the BMW pump, it will not happen. Pump is designed to run on smart electronics not people trying to out smart it.
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Report this Post08-23-2021 11:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


 
quote
Originally posted by La fiera:

If you would have followed my advice you would not be asking this question. You will never have proper cooling trying to be cheap and run 12 volts to the BMW pump, it will not happen. Pump is designed to run on smart electronics not people trying to out smart it.



PWM has been ordered . I just wanted to ensure the pump I got worked.
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Report this Post08-24-2021 09:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by str8maxn:
PWM has been ordered . I just wanted to ensure the pump I got worked.


Good! You will not be disappointed! Make sure you read the entire manual. If you have any questions or concerns about setting up PM me if you need to!
Mount the pump as low as possible
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Report this Post08-26-2021 01:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by La fiera:


Good! You will not be disappointed! Make sure you read the entire manual. If you have any questions or concerns about setting up PM me if you need to!
Mount the pump as low as possible


Man, I ran a bench test and the CWA200 moves.

QQ- what kinda of coolant are you running?
While looking at a youtube video, I hear that G-48 coolant should be use to lubricate the pumps.
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Report this Post08-28-2021 09:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by str8maxn:


Man, I ran a bench test and the CWA200 moves.

QQ- what kinda of coolant are you running?
While looking at a youtube video, I hear that G-48 coolant should be use to lubricate the pumps.


Yes, the pump will move 50% with direct 12V but wait till you install the controller. It makes it wine!

This is what I use because at most tracks they don't allow regular OEM coolant, its too slippery and can cause havoc if spilled.

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Report this Post08-30-2021 06:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Easy8Send a Private Message to Easy8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry I am late to this. I have a 93 formula firebird LT1 in the back of mine. I run a stock water pump with a champion radiator in the front. The car runs normal Temps, heats to 220 ish when it is stuck in traffic (and I mean 45 mins of 2 mph traffic) runs 190 on the freeway. You do not need to run an electric pump, but since you are working that I hope it works. My issue was with the radiator, the car overheated when I first ran it. The new radiator took care of that.

I have not changed the plugs but the front 4 look pretty easy from under my car. It would all depend on your exhaust set up.

[This message has been edited by Easy8 (edited 08-30-2021).]

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Report this Post08-30-2021 06:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have a champion 3 row on order, I'll be taking one step at a time and see what works with the least amount of effort.

I am happy to say , replacing the intake gaskets was really easy. I was able to fix my intake vacuum leak. Unfortunately, I still have misfire. Hoping that replacing the spark plugs takes care of it.


Thank you to everyone for the great input and help.
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Report this Post08-30-2021 10:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by str8maxn:

... Unfortunately, I still have misfire. ...


The optispark is the usual culprit for misfire. Moisture and oil get in the unit and causes misfires.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/145054.html

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Report this Post08-30-2021 10:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cyrus88:


The optispark is the usual culprit for misfire. Moisture and oil get in the unit and causes misfires.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/145054.html


I agree, but I'm hoping I get luck 🤞
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Report this Post08-31-2021 07:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cyrus88:

This pic shows the adapters and lack of stock WP.

If you can't make your own, shop for remote water pump adapters for LT-1 on the net. I remember seeing some, but can't remember where.





Out of the water pump blocking plates with the NA fittings how are you making the transition from an NA fitting to the stock cooling system?

Are you using something like this?



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Report this Post08-31-2021 09:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nope not that kind of adapter. See my picture above showing the remote thermostat.

1. The inlet to the water pump is from the bottom of the radiator with the usual fiero lines and custom/cut radator hose.

2. The outlet from the water pump goes to the TOP fittings of the blocking plates using AN hose and fittings.

3. The water outlet from the engine, from the BOTTOM of the blocking plates, go to the remote thermostat housing.

4. Regular rubber radior hose goes from the "goose neck," on the remote thermostat, plus Fiero lines to the top of the radiator.

5. The heater core hoses attach via T-fittings. From thermostat housing to core, and return from core to water pump inlet.

[This message has been edited by cyrus88 (edited 08-31-2021).]

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str8maxn
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Report this Post09-01-2021 11:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cyrus88:

Nope not that kind of adapter. See my picture above showing the remote thermostat.

1. The inlet to the water pump is from the bottom of the radiator with the usual fiero lines and custom/cut radator hose.

2. The outlet from the water pump goes to the TOP fittings of the blocking plates using AN hose and fittings.

3. The water outlet from the engine, from the BOTTOM of the blocking plates, go to the remote thermostat housing.

4. Regular rubber radior hose goes from the "goose neck," on the remote thermostat, plus Fiero lines to the top of the radiator.

5. The heater core hoses attach via T-fittings. From thermostat housing to core, and return from core to water pump inlet.



I'm still trying to figure out the connections but I am sure I'll get there.


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str8maxn
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Report this Post09-01-2021 02:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for str8maxnSend a Private Message to str8maxnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Luck has been on my side so far.

Changing the spark plugs has gone pretty smooth, I was able to get to the first 4 ( closer to the trunk) by removing half the exhaust. The other 4 ( closer to the firewall with a few extensions /swivels and I had to cut down a 3/4 wrench.

Here are the plugs that were in the fiero. TB is located on the Right Side.

Please let me know If I should be concerned with anything. I replaced them with Bosch Double Iridium pre gapped at 0.055 . Old one were gapped at .045.

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