Cyls 1 and 2 don't look good. Looks like carbon fouling. Maybe you got some leaky injectors and are running rich on those cylinders, but I don't know.

I think the Bosch double Iridium are supposed to be preset at a gap of 1.3mm, which is about .051".

quote Originally posted by cyrus88: Cyls 1 and 2 don't look good. Looks like carbon fouling. Maybe you got some leaky injectors and are running rich on those cylinders, but I don't know. I think the Bosch double Iridium are supposed to be preset at a gap of 1.3mm, which is about .051".

I was concerned about the gap too but this is straight from the bosch web site. I am running the Double Iridium plugs.


While the intake was off, I took the time to clean each injector out ..
Per the last owner, there was a time when a hose inside the gas tank caused the fiero to stop running . It apparently got all gummed up .
I did manage to get a good jet stream from each injector after the cleaning.

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 09-01-2021).]

Is this what the routing for a remote water pump should look like?

In short, No.

I'll post a quick sketch shortly.

If you got the controller from Germany you will not need a thermostat. The controller will pulse the pump to slow the water in the radiator so the fan can take the heat away.
I set my temperature at 150F and it stays there regardless how hard I beat on the engine.

Hello All,

Just wanted to post an update of the work done.

Replaced Intake Gaskets
New spark plugs
New spark plug wires
Oil change
Gutted the OEM water pump to run the electric water pump (this setup may change)
Clean out the TB
Clean out the Fuel Injectors
New Belt
New exhaust tips

Pending:
Sent the MSD Optispark out to MSD to have it rebuilt. I am hoping this will fix my misfire.
Flush cooling system \ install remote water pump
Install new 3 row champion radiator (On back order)


Please let me know if I should replace anything else.

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 09-20-2021).]

I'm late to this thread.

Looks like you guys have it under control.

However remember that unlike a normal SBC the LT1 of your vintage has a reverse flow cooling system.

Normal SBC engine the water cools the block & then the heads.

that LT1 cools the heads first.

Archie

quote Originally posted by Archie: I'm late to this thread. Looks like you guys have it under control. However remember that unlike a normal SBC the LT1 of your vintage has a reverse flow cooling system. Normal SBC engine the water cools the block & then the heads. that LT1 cools the heads first. Archie

Hello Archie, Welcome to the party... Look forward to any input you may have. Thank you for the reply.

Hello everyone,

I sent out my OptiSpark to MSD to get rebuilt and it should be here any day now... Is there any instructions for installing the OptiSpark? Do I need to find DTC or does the OptiSpark just line up via the notches?

If I need to find DTC... How would I go about that?

Thank you ...

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 10-12-2021).]

quote Originally posted by La fiera: https://youtu.be/ujJxuR2XiYs This is what I did on my Fiero. The water pump is installed at the front but you can istall it anywere you'd like. To avoid air pockets install it lower than the radiator like I did. The pump is a BMW(Bosch) part number that can be found at any Advance Auto or NAPA or O'Reilys. It's been tryed on daily drivers and track BMWs. The one thing that'll you'll need is the controller for that specific pump. It's made by a company called Tecomotive in Germany. I don't even use a thermostat, it has a setting for that. Disregard the stock water pump, I'm using the stock engine configuration. I cut the impeller off just to use it as a pulley.

Do you mind posting a few pictures of the water pump installed?

Sure! The location of the pump is very important. You MUST install it at the lowerst point possible to avoid air pockets. Wait for the video where I test the system electronically by fooling the Coolant Temp Sensor. And by reversing the WP water hoses you can run LT1s or SBCs. Also, you don't need a thermostat. The comproller has a setting for thernostat-less systmems. I don't use a thermostat.

[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 10-31-2021).]

quote Originally posted by La fiera: Sure! The location of the pump is very important. You MUST install it at the lowerst point possible to avoid air pockets. Wait for the video where I test the system electronically by fooling the Coolant Temp Sensor. And by reversing the WP water hoses you can run LT1s or SBCs. Also, you don't need a thermostat. The comproller has a setting for thernostat-less systmems. I don't use a thermostat.

Did you use any of the BMW hoses? it looks like you set up an aluminum plate to install the water pump , right?

Yes, I just used a flat aluminum plate to install the pump as low as possible. Hoses are what I found closest to my installation. I went to the local parts store and got something that work. This is temporaty. After the engine is tuned I'll replaced all hoses and cooling pipes with AN-20 racing hoses and build adapters for the pump so I can swich pumps easily.

Hello All,

Help needed....

First off the battery is good ; shows 12V.

I don't have any POWER at all, no interior lights, no cluster lights, no power to front fuse box, no power to the rear distribution block (near the battery). I used a 12v tester to test connectivity on the fusible links and I have no power there either. The battery is relocated to the front of the car and that cable has power all the back to the starter.

Where do I start looking?

My assumption is a wire or wires broke while I was lifting the rear body up to get the the crank pully. Where should I start looking for a possible break. Or is this related to something else, hidden fuse?

The battery was disconnected while the car was being worked on, so I don't think its a blown fuse.

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 11-20-2021).]

There should be a wire going from the starter to the junction block on the rear passenger side of the engine bay.

quote Originally posted by cyrus88: There should be a wire going from the starter to the junction block on the rear passenger side of the engine bay.

Thank you for the reply... I'll start looking soon and update.

I should clarify a bit. So, the junction box, that I was referring to, gets power from the battery.

Since your battery has been moved to the front, then the simple thing to do is to run a wire from the starter "battery" post to the junction box. But, how the previous owner got power to the block may not be as I described.

Im any case check the junction box and make sure you get battery voltage.

quote Originally posted by cyrus88: I should clarify a bit. So, the junction box, that I was referring to, gets power from the battery. Since your battery has been moved to the front, then the simple thing to do is to run a wire from the starter "battery" post to the junction box. But, how the previous owner got power to the block may not be as I described. Im any case check the junction box and make sure you get battery voltage.

Will do ty again.

Just take thick gauge wire from the starter and connect it to the distribution block and you should be ok.

quote Originally posted by La fiera: Just take thick gauge wire from the starter and connect it to the distribution block and you should be ok.

It just so happens I found the broken wire today. The wire is hot (12V \10 gauge) I can see that the terminal is broke off. But I am not sure where it broke off from; maybe the starter. I was thinking I would take this wire and extend it to the fuse block but add a fuse\circuit breaker just to be safe. I am just not use what amp fuse to use 30 /40/ 50 /60 any recommendations?


It also appears that I fixed the misfire. I think the optispark was the problem. I only ran the car for a few minutes since I am still working on the cooling system.

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 11-26-2021).]

There's no need to add a fuse to that wire. I used an 8-gauge wire from starter to junction box.

Well, as I stated before, the opti is almost always the source of misfire.

quote Originally posted by str8maxn: It also appears that I fixed the misfire. I think the optispark was the problem. I only ran the car for a few minutes since I am still working on the cooling system.

Close the spark plug gap.

quote Originally posted by La fiera: Close the spark plug gap.

I should be working on the cooling system later this week and can run the car longer; hell maybe take it for a spin. Hopefully the misfire is gone but if its not, I will re gap as suggested. If I recall correctly they are at .55 the factor gap for the plugs I got.

Hello all,

The BMW electric water pump is installed.... I ran the Fiero for 5 minutes and no misfire. YEPPP.....

I wanted to run the fiero for longer but I realized

1. I forgot to plug in the lower vacuum tube for the Optispark and I can't get to it now with everything installed. I'll need to remove the Crank pully.
2. The belt is not aligned correctly. There is a 1/4 inch difference in alignment causing the belt to ride on the inner part of Crank pully.

Question: Can I have a machine shop take 1/4 off the crankshaft the rear of the crank pully to get the belt to align? See pic 2 for reference.




This second pic is for illustration only; not my crank pully.


LaFiera,
I had a harder time getting the water pump installed because I didn't have that much room as you. I still have the front tube and my battery is located up front.
But thank you very much for the help and the pic's.

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 12-06-2021).]

Just shim the alternator/AC bracket with washers/shims to align the belt

quote Originally posted by str8maxn: LaFiera, I had a harder time getting the water pump installed because I didn't have that much room as you. I still have the front tube and my battery is located up front. But thank you very much for the help and the pic's.

My pleasure my friend! Did you get the controller also?

quote Originally posted by cyrus88: Just shim the alternator/AC bracket with washers/shims to align the belt

That's a great idea; but there is latterly no room for me to remove the bolts without dropping the cradle. Thus, I was hoping to remove material from the crank pully. Is this an option?

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 12-07-2021).]

The crank pulley bolts to the crank hub.

So you would have to shorten the crank hub, which is possible, but I don't know if doing so would create an interference between the crank pulley and optispark distributor.

I don't know how your setup is, but on mine I have no problem removing the alternator without dropping the cradle.

quote Originally posted by cyrus88: The crank pulley bolts to the crank hub. So you would have to shorten the crank hub, which is possible, but I don't know if doing so would create an interference between the crank pulley and optispark distributor. I don't know how your setup is, but on mine I have no problem removing the alternator without dropping the cradle.

I'll have to take a closer look at my setup. Hopefully, there is room.

Thank you for the input.

I took a closer look and it appears that the alternator has no adjustment. An Archie V8 kit was used for the install. I found this pic to illustrate



The Red Arrow : I don't see how I can add a shim to align it ; since the support is sandwiched between the two aluminum plates. I don't see any movement. Other than taking off the pulley wheel and adding a few washers. I don't see an adjustment.

The Green Arrow: I noticed this setup doesn't have belt tensioner. Mine does.

The Purple Arrow: The AC compressor, I think I can add washers to align. However, the bolts heads on mine are facing the headers on my install. Where as in this pic, they are facing the rear wheel. Not sure if that make a difference.


What belt size are you using?

I am currently running Gates Micro V K050420 which is 42.625" long. But I think I just saw a post that a 41" belt is needed. Unfortunately, I don't recall where.

Could it be that all that is wrong is that the belt is too big and thus sides off a bit?

Archie , are you around to comment?

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 12-08-2021).]

You can add shims behind the alternator mount. It just means however many shims/washers you add there, you will have to also add to the spacers that separate the two aluminum plates. Or, add shims behind the plate that is againt the cylinder head.

I don't have an V8-Archie setup, so the belt length I'm using does not help you.

[This message has been edited by cyrus88 (edited 12-08-2021).]

quote Originally posted by cyrus88: You can add shims behind the alternator mount. It just means however many shims/washers you add there, you will have to also add to the spacers that separate the two aluminum plates. Or, add shims behind the plate that is againt the cylinder head. I don't have an V8-Archie setup, so the belt length I'm using does not help you.

I'll give it a shot over the weekend.

Thank you for the reply.

[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 12-08-2021).]

Hello All,

I was able to fix the belt issue... I found a 41 5/8" Belt and this fixed my belt issue. I'll include the part number incase someone else runs into the same issue.

Gates K050410 41 5/8 Gates Micro V 5 rib

I fixed the misfire, ran the car for over 30 minutes without issue. OPTISPARK strikes again.
The BMW remote water pump is in and working great ran the car at idle for over 30 minutes and it keep the car cool.


La Fiera>>> I went with a generic controller for now. Seems to be doing a great job and a bargain at $15 bucks.

Here is what I used.




Here is what the BMW water pump setup looks like.



But the old girl is still fighting me.. The starter seems to be going out. (I think) I have to crank it several times before the teeth engauge the fly wheel. I hoping its just an alignment issue.
The quest continues to work out all the gremlins. Next up install the rear C4 brakes.

DAMN, I can't keep the car cool. System boils over, I raised the back end of the car and used one of those no spill funnels to remove all the air.

La Fiera, I know the water pump is running but I can't seem to feel any water pumping to the top hose on the radiator.
I should be able to feel water passing thru the top hose, right?

Both radiator hoses stay cool to the touch (front) but the rear hoses are hot. I don't think I am getting flow throughout the system. Any pointers?

Thank you

quote Originally posted by str8maxn: DAMN, I can't keep the car cool. System boils over, I raised the back end of the car and used one of those no spill funnels to remove all the air. La Fiera, I know the water pump is running but I can't seem to feel any water pumping to the top hose on the radiator. I should be able to feel water passing thru the top hose, right? Both radiator hoses stay cool to the touch (front) but the rear hoses are hot. I don't think I am getting flow throughout the system. Any pointers? Thank you

Those cheap controllers only run at a certain speed and are not designed to run that specific pump. I don't know if you have a thermostat but my controller compensates for that pulsing the pump. Do you run a thermostat?

https://youtu.be/_32rdmTTIGE

[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 12-19-2021).]

La feria, where did you buy your controller at?

I'm not running a thermostat.

------------------
JM