Possible causes: 1. No or low coolant flow 2. Hoses not routed correctly so that the coolant never gets to the radiator 3. Massive air in the system 4. Running very lean 4. Blown head gasket from boiling over previously
Possible causes: 1. No or low coolant flow 2. Hoses not routed correctly so that the coolant never gets to the radiator 3. Massive air in the system 4. Running very lean 4. Blown head gasket from boiling over previously
1. No or low coolant flow <<< Most like the case due to a weak signal to the electric water pump. 2. Hoses not routed correctly so that the coolant never gets to the radiator <<<< Hopefully not, moved messing with the water put hoses but I labeled everything before removing it. 3. Massive air in the system <<<< could be an issue but I put the nose to the ground and the rear about 2 feet higher and used a no spill funnel. 4. Running very lean <<< running on an electric water pump but I did just replace the MSD optispark so this could be the case. 4. Blown head gasket from boiling over previously <<<< I hope not....
Don't go chasing ghosts dude, wait for the controller and install it. Just make sure to follow the instructions that come with the controller. Upstream or downstream, the controller can do either way. And use the best program for your project. Any questions let me know. One thing, make sure you mount the pump as low as possible compared to the engine and radiator.
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 12-20-2021).]
Take your thermostat out and choose a program to run the pump without thermostat. The controller will pulse mimicking a thermostat. Take your time and read the manual, its very helpful!
1. Where did you tap into to install the provided Bosch temperature sensor? 2. Where did you tap for the cooling fan? 3. Where did you tap for the ignition 12V on?
I may put the controller on a 12V toggle switch vs. ignition. This would give me the option to cool the car down with the engine and ignition off. Do you recommend this?
1. Where did you tap into to install the provided Bosch temperature sensor? 2. Where did you tap for the cooling fan? 3. Where did you tap for the ignition 12V on?
I may put the controller on a 12V toggle switch vs. ignition. This would give me the option to cool the car down with the engine and ignition off. Do you recommend this?
1- I installed it on the head because it is the where the temperature is the highest in the 60*V6 iron head. Tecomotive recomends installing it at the hotter spot. 2- I tapped the stock fan relay. Cut the wire that suplies the ground from the stock fan switch. Or you can use a regular relay and pigtail. 3- Since I don't have windows I use that circuit because it is on when ignition is on.
I may put the controller on a 12V toggle switch vs. ignition. This would give me the option to cool the car down with the engine and ignition off. Do you recommend this?
No, let the Tinythingy do its thing. The controller will cool the car after shut off if the motor is withing the range of temperature you choose, but it will do it slower. it's part of the programing of the controller. If you want to cooler faster just open the ignition switch.
Once you got it all wired up you can test it without starting the engine. If I remember correctly the system is programmed that if the temp sensor fails the pump and fan are full on. So, when you are done wiring just unplug the temp sensor and fan and pump should be running. You can also bleed the system without starting the engine.
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 12-23-2021).]
I can't get the pump to flow throughout the system. I tested the TinyCWA and put the dial on position #3 TEST MODE >> PUMP to 100% and Fan ON. I would assume, I would be able to squeeze the hoses and feel the flow. I don't feel anything. I can hear the pump running. The rear of the car is in the air about 20" to ensure no air blocks. I also burped the system using a no spill funnel.
I can't get the pump to flow throughout the system. I tested the TinyCWA and put the dial on position #3 TEST MODE >> PUMP to 100% and Fan ON. I would assume, I would be able to squeeze the hoses and feel the flow. I don't feel anything. I can hear the pump running. The rear of the car is in the air about 20" to ensure no air blocks. I also burped the system using a no spill funnel.
I don't know what I am doing wrong.
Where is the pump located? If you use the thermostat there are specific settings to use.
I don't use the thermostat and run it with its corresponding setting and the pump is the lowest point in the cooling system.
I can't get the pump to flow throughout the system. I tested the TinyCWA and put the dial on position #3 TEST MODE >> PUMP to 100% and Fan ON. I would assume, I would be able to squeeze the hoses and feel the flow. I don't feel anything. I can hear the pump running. The rear of the car is in the air about 20" to ensure no air blocks. I also burped the system using a no spill funnel.
I don't know what I am doing wrong.
Where is the pump located? If you use the thermostat there are specific settings to use.
I don't use the thermostat and run it with its corresponding setting and the pump is the lowest point in the cooling system.
Where is the pump located? If you use the thermostat there are specific settings to use.
I don't use the thermostat and run it with its corresponding setting and the pump is the lowest point in the cooling system.
Where is the pump located? It's up front , next to and below the shock used on the steering rack. <See pics on page 2 > It sits about 1-2 inches lower than the lowest part of the front bumper and below the lowest point on the radiator. I removed the propeller from stock water pumps and don't use a thermostat.
When your pump is on; do you feel water pumping thru the top hose on the radiator?
With the help from La Fiera, I was able to get the pump working. Turns out I had a trap between the radiator and the water pump. Similar to would you find on your sinks and toilet; the S Bend. So I was not supplying the pump with water. I re did the inlet to ensure a drop and leveled the hose ensuring no upward bend. Ran the car for over 30 minutes, in test mode 3 , using the TinyCWA (100% pump \ Fan ON) keep the care below 160 Degrees. I still need to install the temp sensor that came with the kit. La Fiera... I can't thank you enough sir.
With the help from La Fiera, I was able to get the pump working. Turns out I had a trap between the radiator and the water pump. Similar to would you find on your sinks and toilet; the S Bend. So I was not supplying the pump with water. I re did the inlet to ensure a drop and leveled the hose ensuring no upward bend. Ran the car for over 30 minutes, in test mode 3 , using the TinyCWA (100% pump \ Fan ON) keep the care below 160 Degrees. I still need to install the temp sensor that came with the kit. La Fiera... I can't thank you enough sir.
My pleasure Sir! We should make a "How to page" on this upgrade for others to benefit.
Hope everyone is doing well. Latest update and issue.
Update - I finally got around to installing the rear C4 brakes. Man what a difference; much better that before. The setup is C5 fronts \ C4 rears. Special Thanks to Chris for the rear brackets.
For those running C4 rears; how did you setup the Emergency brake ? Any pictures?
Issues: After replacing the MSD Optispark. It is running super rich, to the point you can smell it on a drive. Does anyone have any suggestions for leaning out? The Optispark I am running does have a nob on it to adjust time; if this helps.
I figured out a few of my fuel injectors were bad. I got a new set and this appears to have corrected fuel issues.
Question for those running LT1's - My temperature doesn't appear to be actually measuring the correct temperature. Temp gauge is maxed out but a Temp gun, shows I am running at 190 Degrees and a temp gauge radiator cap confirms this reading. Any suggestion? I am also having issues with the E brake. After replace the E brake handle and cables there is not enough tension to hold the car in place. Even when I max out the adjustment nut. thoughts?
As you many know , I went with a BMW electric water pump that is controlled by the TinyCWA controller. I am running the pump in mode "D" \ Pulsed mode \ 90°C / 194°F.
My concern is the stock Fiero temp gauge. It's maxed out, here are the temperatures I saw yesterday after a short drive. I used a digital temperature gun to get these readings.
157 Degrees >> Top Inlet of the stock Fiero radiator. 120 Degrees >> At the radiator cap 152 Degrees >> At the rear pipe before entering the stock water pump housing 187 Degrees >> Rear corvette reserve tank 217 Degrees >> At the rear facing cylinder Head Max out >> stock Fiero temp gauge
Are these temperatures within range? Is there a way to correct the stock temp gauge? Or should I consider using an after market gauge?
1: Is the temp gauge maxed out from the key on position with the engine completely cool? Or,
2: does the temp gauge start from low and rises to max when the engine is running?
In the first case, it's a temp sensor, gauge, or wiring problem. The second case implies that there is a flow problem and that the cylinder head is really hot or the temp sensor is "wonky" and works only until it warms up.
[This message has been edited by cyrus88 (edited 04-22-2022).]
1: Is the temp gauge maxed out from the key on position with the engine completely cool? Or,
2: does the temp gauge start from low and rises to max when the engine is running?
In the first case, it's a temp sensor, gauge, or wiring problem. The second case implies that there is a flow problem and that the cylinder head is really hot or the temp sensor is "wonky" and works only until it warms up.
Car starts off with the needle at its lowest position and slowly climbs till its maxed out. Which I think is 260 degrees.. but using the temp gun ... I can't find anything that high. Highest temp was at the cylinder head @ 217
The temp sensor for the gauge is in the front cylinder head toward passenger side, so check there. It may be a bad sensor or wire to the sensor.
The temperatures you posted shows that the coolant is cooler at the radiator, which means that the car wasn't running long enough to open the thermostat.
The temp sensor for the gauge is in the front cylinder head toward passenger side, so check there. It may be a bad sensor or wire to the sensor.
The temperatures you posted shows that the coolant is cooler at the radiator, which means that the car wasn't running long enough to open the thermostat.
Hello Cyrus88 .. I am not running a thermostat and I cut out the propeller out of the stock LT1 water pump. I am only running the BMW electric water pump on the tinyCWA controller.
1: Without a thermostat in that stock water pump, most of the cold water bypasses the heads and block and goes back to the radiator.
2: According to your diagram, only a small heater hose connection goes to the top of the radiator. You should have a 1-1/4" hose off the water pump goose neck going to the top of the radiator.
1: Without a thermostat in that stock water pump, most of the cold water bypasses the heads and block and goes back to the radiator.
2: According to your diagram, only a small heater hose connection goes to the top of the radiator. You should have a 1-1/4" hose off the water pump goose neck going to the top of the radiator.
Sorry Cyruss88 ... I am do have a 11/4" neck on the stock water pump. With regards to not using a theromostat here are the instructions on the TinyCWA manual .
Use a thermostat or not? It is possible to use the pump / controller in combination with or without an ordinary mechanical thermostat. If you use one just make sure you set the controllers target temperature as close as possible to the temperature of the thermostat. (Of course you can play with the target temperature a little for eventually better cooling results.) A cooling system with a thermostat can benefit from an even shorter warmup time and a more exact actual temperature. A system without one on the other hand got fewer mechanical losses but the actual temperature can vary a bit more from the target you set
I may just need to lower the target temperature.
[This message has been edited by str8maxn (edited 04-25-2022).]
The stock LT-1 water pump is not an ordinary mechanical water pump found on the old SBCs.
It needs a thermostat or another way to block the internal passage between the hot and cold. Look up the water pump description on the internet (or run water through a spare/junk one and you will see) .
The stock LT-1 water pump is not an ordinary mechanical water pump found on the old SBCs.
It needs a thermostat or another way to block the internal passage between the hot and cold. Look up the water pump description on the internet (or run water through a spare/junk one and you will see) .
The stock LT-1 water pump is not an ordinary mechanical water pump found on the old SBCs.
It needs a thermostat or another way to block the internal passage between the hot and cold. Look up the water pump description on the internet (or run water through a spare/junk one and you will see) .
It does not matter weather is an LT1 or a SBC. The Tiny Controller is more intelligent than you think. You can put a straight pipe to bypass the pump an with the right setting the Tiny will pulse the electric pump slowing down and speeding up or block flow as needed to meet the set temperature.
I installed the thermostat and lowered the temperature setting on the Tiny controller and got higher temperature readings. Plus it seemed to get to temperature a lot quicker.
La Fiera, Are you running the stock Fiero radiator?
Cyrus88 Same question?
I am up in the air as to what to do next. 3 Row radiator , pull\leave the thermostat and play with the setting
