I was bumping Daryl's thread; glad you figured it out. I went with https://www.keislerautomation.com/ for my harness. You could build your own, but for his price (~$900), saved a LOT of headache.
Parts are with the powder coater now. After that, hopefully finishing it up! More pics to follow
Getting new front suspension bits ready for swap this weekend. Going to finish the front SS brake lines while I'm at it.
I'm not a fan of thr gloss black from the por 15 on the cross member but fot the cost delta of what everything else cost to powder coat, it's hard to beat.
Looking sharp! That looks like some OEM, NOS, out of the box stuff right there!
It's like one of those pictures that everytime you go to a car show, you'll be like "why can't you look as good as you did in *that* picture!" (I know, most people don't look under cars at car shows, but every now and then you see that guy who's brought the dressing mirror and/or the drive up car stands to raise one side of the car.)
Looking sharp! That looks like some OEM, NOS, out of the box stuff right there!
It's like one of those pictures that everytime you go to a car show, you'll be like "why can't you look as good as you did in *that* picture!" (I know, most people don't look under cars at car shows, but every now and then you see that guy who's brought the dressing mirror and/or the drive up car stands to raise one side of the car.)
Thanks! I do it more for the rust protection and hoping to keep the car for a while. That and all the suspension stuff was/is original so 30+ years and~120k miles old.
On thing I'm trying are the front shocks. We have absolute -crap- for selection. I really want some bilsteins so I was browsing their catalogue and they have some that are usually used on '67 camaros that should work for us. The unknown is the damping ratio.
Anyway, I bought a set to see if they physically fit. I'll report back on ride quality.
Am I remembering poorly or are the upper control arms on the wrong sides?
They're on the correct side. I'm still hunting for the smaller mounting shaft washers. Because of this, I haven't pressed the front bushing back in yet.
Have you considered KYB shocks? I've used them in a couple of cars, including my Fiero, with good results. RockAuto has them at about $30 each. For the rears the 85-87 will work but you must grind off a sharp edge near the top bolt hole. Someone already has a posting of doing that.
Will have to load pics from my phone but was able to get everything buttoned back up. All the new SS brake lines installed (Now I want to do the clutch line; go figure.), brakes rebuilt and back on, and back on the ground.
Was talking to my wife last night for the next steps.
1.) Do the dash. RIght now I have a manual oil pressure gauge with a jury rigged installation. Planned on picking out an aftermarket dash (IE AiM) and installing so I can monitor everything real time. 2.) Drop car off at a shop for four wheel alignment+help figure out why car is going stupid in closed loop. 3.) Switch body panels for Aero parts (Still on the hunt of someone generally local parting out a GT) 4.) Mr. Mikes seats. 5.) Paint. Let the kid pick the color. She wants it red w/ a #10 on the side. No idea why, but that's what's going to happen. Will also need a new windshield as one on car currently is properly cracked.
I'm thinking of swapping a 3.6 V6 into my BMW, for similar reasons. The biggest engine available in the E46 BMW was a 3 liter straight-6, with just over 220 HP. I could swap in an engine from an M3, but that would be stupid-expensive, and the M3 engine is about 100 lb heavier (iron block).
Or I could swap in a GM 3.6 V6 which weighs less than the BMW 3.0 L6, and makes about 70 more HP. Hmmm...
Anyway, I didn't mean to derail your thread. Are you going to take video of the engine running?
Another route is using just the cams from the M3s. I used to do that cam swap back late 90's early 2000's for the stock endurance racers and it was worth about 30hp. Add to that, that you can get stock ITB's for the in line 6 with a Megasquirt, H beam rods which are available and balance the entire assembly and rev it to 8200rpm. That would be a killer set up at the track and on the streets to have fun! Oh, and make it manual!
So update; I'll get pics loaded soon. Placing order for dash this weekend. Settled on the AiM MXG Strada. Designing a new dash to plop in.
Moved battery up front. Buddy cutting out box dimensions as we speak. Discovered headlight module was roached. Replaced relay inside. POR-15'd front of car. Installed rivnuts on all the holes the trim usually uses for those stupid plastic nuts.
Seems like slow progress, but once dash get's in and installed, car can go to and be made 100% driveable (hopefully). So getting to the final stretch! Items after that are all for appearance (coil overs, wheels, paint, etc)
It's been a long time since I bumped this thread. Car runs and drives. Had the exhaust fabbed and put on. Still goes ape crap after it goes into closed loop. Tuner looked at it and realized it was pulling ~60* of timing. . .
I have a strong suspicion of what it is; been concentrating on building my dream garage so this has been on the back burner.
So right now it just sits waiting for me to work on it
[This message has been edited by RandomTask (edited 06-29-2023).]
Cool that the problem was found. Sucks that it was an issue the tuner did, thankfully he caught it and it didn't damage the engine.
Where are the pics you mentioned wanting to put up almost 4 months ago?
To be clear, it wasn't the tuner. My suspicion is the following:
1.) The LFX ECU -must- get a PWM signal from the driveline else it thinks the engine is working but not moving the car. To do this, I had to install a voltage up resistor on my hal effect sensor. I either got the wires crossed or I put the wrong resistance on it.
did you have to make any mods to your cradle? I could not really tell from the pictures and honestly may have missed it
I did nothing to the cradle short of weld the two engine mounts onto it. I purchased the trans mounts from someone who fabricated them for the F40.
The only crap thing about this is that the purchased F40 mounts prevent the use of the rear sway bar. Pickhard performance (sp) has been working w/ Paul to replicate what his fiero uses; I will be picking one of these up once they come for sale.
Currently driving a '13 Impala. Love this engine. Pulls hard, revs high, and gets 26 MPG in a car that weighs 3800 lbs. And even though I love the rumble of a V8 I want to keep my Fiero a little more "stealth".
I can't use my current car as a doner because it is too nice. But definitely planning on using the LFX.