I am working on installing my v8 Archie vertical door hinges. Cant decide what to do with the wireing. My thoughts are to cut the factory boot in half so i can use the ends to plug the large holes in the door and firewall. Extend the wires in the middle and tape off the ends of both boots to seal things up. Not sure this is the best way. Anybody have some ideas on what to do.
here are some pics of what I mean. The factory holes a very large I think I will have to use the factory boot ends to plug them. I will just cut it in the middle install each end then add extended wires between and tape it up. Don't want want to start cutting until I get some opinions.
Use those contact pins, found in show cars, and get rid of the wiring? You shouldn't need power to the door with it up. I am not sure how they work in the weather, but something to think about.
Otherwise, move the wiring closer to the pivot point of the door, so you don't need as much wiring?
What do other vertical door kits do about wiring? Google image search results seemed to show different options.
[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 11-12-2015).]
I'm also working on the door wiring issue right now like you. I'm going to take the stock rubber wiring sleeve, trim it .... a fit a rubber hole grommet inside.... than using split spiral rap around the wires... slide into the grommet... It should look descent, and hold up well. I post some pics when I get a chance..
------------------ 88 GT Choptop, Vertical Door Hinges Lowered Suspension w/ 13" Brake Disk CarPC - WinXP Pro (GT Sport Edition) + a lot more.....
Use those contact pins, found in show cars, and get rid of the wiring? You shouldn't need power to the door with it up. I am not sure how they work in the weather, but something to think about.
Otherwise, move the wiring closer to the pivot point of the door, so you don't need as much wiring?
What do other vertical door kits do about wiring? Google image search results seemed to show different options.
The contact pins would be a clean way to do it but it would be over $100 a door to use them. Not in my budget. I do like the idea of moving the wiring closer to the pivot point. I will check to see if its possible.
I would like to see pics of your wiring before I do anything. I will procrastinate until you post some pics.
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Originally posted by Orig88GT-NC:
I'm also working on the door wiring issue right now like you. I'm going to take the stock rubber wiring sleeve, trim it .... a fit a rubber hole grommet inside.... than using split spiral rap around the wires... slide into the grommet... It should look descent, and hold up well. I post some pics when I get a chance..
The contact pins would be a clean way to do it but it would be over $100 a door to use them. Not in my budget. I do like the idea of moving the wiring closer to the pivot point. I will check to see if its possible.
Does someone have a web link to a product that would be used? I haven't even thought about the wiring issue with my doors yet...but that might be great for my build.
Some Pics...... I'm at the same point as you in doing this, but this is what I've come up with... Cutting the original wire harness rubber sleeve ends off and inserting a through hole grommet inside each end piece.Black wire split loom to cover the wires and securing with a black wire tie wrap. I have to go and purchase some larger rubber through hole grommets and one size larger split loom than what I have shown in the photos -( I added additional wiring )
The tricky part will be fitting the wire harness around the hinge plate where it goes into the door cavity. It will be tight but I'm sure it will make it.
●The harness between the door and the frame, I plan on securing to the hinge plate to keep it from pinching or binding.
●I looked into moving the harness higher/(closer to the hinge point) but didn't find a good way to route the wiring that high up in the door or into the cabin........
●Other item I found in the past but really wont work is this stainless steel sleeve. ( Inside Diameters is way to small for power windows/locks wiring ) AutoLoc - Door Loom
● The Door Electrical Contact plates are a cool idea, But the Fiero's door jambs really don't layout very well for this application. RodTronics - Electrical Contacts
I'm open to other ideas, maybe somebody else has a better mousetrap. edit to: fix link
[This message has been edited by Orig88GT-NC (edited 11-12-2015).]
I have been there and I found that it will depend on the look you want ... you can find different size SS braided tubes on Ebay. I did not like the flexibility and look of them ... so I cut my door rubber pass throughs and taped in a plastic tube .... pic below.... length is something to factor in too...
I have been there and I found that it will depend on the look you want ... you can find different size SS braided tubes on Ebay. I did not like the flexibility and look of them ... so I cut my door rubber pass throughs and taped in a plastic tube .... pic below.... length is something to factor in too...
Originally posted by crashmydaytona: Not very attractive but its functional and sealed up good.
Looks fine, more important to be reliable and sealed good. TIP: The wheel well liner can be heated with a heat gun and press/formed around the lower strut mount. Helps when attaching the liner to the fender.
I was watching a TV show and they had the back of van open. There was a "long" wire harness tube from the van to the door. I would think a junkyard would have something similar. These looked long enough for what you were trying to do.
I did not know the fender was going to need trimmed for the door to open. Did anyone else have to trim there fender? how much did you have to take off?
Several years ago I installed Vertical door hinges on my 86 GT. I purchased the hinge set from a forum member, forget the name. Anyway, in the set of installation instructions was mention about the need for some trimming.
Originally posted by crashmydaytona: I did not know the fender was going to need trimmed for the door to open. Did anyone else have to trim there fender? how much did you have to take off?
Ya, a little bit of trimming is needed on the fender for the hinge to clear. Pic of fender with the area cut out.
Thanks for the pics. Did you have to cut the molding on the to. Mine is hitting. Going to need to cut 1/4 inch off mine.
No I didn't have any issues with the molding, I still have about 1/2" clearance to the edge of the fender, and well away from the molding trim..... interesting
Just thought of somthing..... The swing of the hinge arm is adjustable by an adjustment screw, the arm should just rub the NUB as the door is raised.. if too loose.... alot of play in the door when up... this would limit how far out the hinge arm swings toward the fender/molding.
[This message has been edited by Orig88GT-NC (edited 01-13-2016).]
My buddy just parted out a 2009 or so Chrysler minivan, and I was impressed at the wiring harness loom for the automatic sliding doors. It's hard to describe, but it's essentially a long series of small, hinged, plastic looms that connect and allow the wiring to unroll and roll back up uniformly without ever kinking. A clever idea to extend the life of a part that sees a lot of use. Sort of snake or caterpillar like. Might be worth looking into, should be plentiful in junkyards.
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Nice video. Didn't make it all the way through, but just hope that you used some kind of thread locker on the bolts. I would hate to see them back out after all that work. Kudos to you.
I just cut the boot then extended the wires and wrapped them with electric tape. i made it long enough to make a loop so it coils as it lowers. So far works like a charm.
Thanks for the pics. Did you have to cut the molding on the to. Mine is hitting. Going to need to cut 1/4 inch off mine.
Yes you cut the fender molding flush with the fender for clearance. Also trim the peg off the back to the little push lock or it will catch as it goes up at times
