So, my name is Mike. I live in Las Vegas and have always loved the Fiero. I used to have an 85GT when I was living in Northern California; I intended to put a 350 in it but I had to sell her off when I got orders to Korea. On my last deployment, I started doing my research for another Fiero; this time I wanted an upgraded V6 with a Getrag 5 speed, but was unsure of my options. Finally, I narrowed it down to either a 3800, SC, or a TDC 3.4. If I did an NA; I’d eventually put a turbo on it.
The Car Rich from Las Vegas Fiero Club sold me this; it started life in March of ’88 as a Formula but somewhere down the line it was transformed into a Fastback. A previous owner also installed sail panel scoops, an exhaust scoop for the radiator, and ground effects under the door. I've named it FrankenFiero. Esthetically, it looks bad; the interior is shot and what was done on the outside is only half done. I like the functionality of the front radiator exhaust scoop, but I wish a previous owner would have either sunk it into the hood or brought it all the way back to the aft edge. I’ve read forums that argue about the help or hindrance of the sail panel scoop; this will eventually need to be addressed. Rich told me that she hadn’t run in 4 years; some parts were picked out of the engine bay. I changed the oil, filter, fuel filter, belts, fuel filler neck, fuel pump, and spark plugs; I replaced the dogbone, alternator, steering column and battery. It started up but I think it has a knock and lacked serious power. I’m sure the lack of power is from leaks in the vacuum system and dirty fuel system, but that noise in the engine worries me.
The Motor I pulled this 3800 SC out of a Grand Prix over the weekend; the wiring harness, computer and engine cost me around $350! I’m not sure of the mileage; the instrument cluster that was sitting in the passenger seat and stated that it was around 111k. I pulled some residual oil out of the pan and it didn't have metal flakes in it; nor was it sludgy from water intrusion. The motor rotates nicely. I think it has the plastic intake manifold on it; it won't by the time it goes in the car. I plan on replacing the rod, crank, and camshaft bearings, timing chain, water pump, head gaskets and seals. That way, once it’s in, I SHOULDN’T have too many problems with it. This will all happen after I do a compression test. I did forget to find out what year the car was…..oops; I’ll go back soon and if it’s still there, get the VIN and do some research. I could probably narrow it down with the computer’s part number. Better yet, hopefully the block should tell me!
I totally goofed on the wire harness. When I dropped the engine/transmission/cradle assembly out of the bottom of the car, I noticed that the wiring harness was chaffed in the passenger rear side of the engine bay. Thinking nothing of it, I whipped out my diagonal cutters and chopped off the part of the harness going into the passenger compartment. I also chopped all the wires going into the back of what I think were the ABS system. I didn't think anything of it until I started driving home; I at least didn't take home the OBDII connector. I’d like to think that some of the other wires that I cut were car power and warning lights. I’ll find out this stuff when I start cleaning the harness. I also chopped the oil level sensor. No worries, I’ll just put them back together.
Here's oops #1. These wires went into the passenger compartment. After I strip it down, I hope to find some wires for the OBDII and stuff for the displays.
Oops #2. They came out of the brake master cylinder; I assume they're for the ABS.
It was broke when I got it!
If it means anything, the computer was underneath the Air Filter.
My hopes as to why this car came to the junkyard rest in that chaffed engine harness. I hope that the last owners of the car were scared off by a mechanic saying that it’d take more money that what it’s worth to diagnose and fix. Also, the transmission’s oil was black as night.
My Skills, Tooling and Facilities The technical name for my job in the Air Force is called Aircraft Structural Maintenance; we’re often called “sheetmetal.” I patch holes, replace fasteners, fabricate hydraulic lines, composite work and paint. I have picked up other things as well; my father works electronics; I learned soldering off of him. I’ve also replaced a tired 2.5 4 banger out of a 1990 Jeep Wrangler and replaced it with a ’92 4.3L. I’m lacking on welding experience; quite frankly, I don’t know how to do it. I can plug and play wires, but when it comes to a PCM tune, I’m not smart enough or equipped to handle the job.
My tooling is limited to a soldering iron, sockets, wrenches, hammers and screwdrivers. My air compressor is a whopping 2 gallons.
Here’s the plan on what I’m going to: 3800 SC mod Redo the body so it looks good Interior redo as the original has seen better days Modify the engine with a new cam/port/polish everything up; find a way to throw an intercooler in it. Replace the Getrag with either an F23 or 40.
My goals are follows Figure out the decklid vents by February 2015 Have a running car by June, 2015. The body will be done by August The interior, New Years 2016
Thanks for reading, I’ll try to take as many photos as I can and keep this current. I'm kind of new at this forum posting thing, if something doesn't work, let me know and I'll (try) to fix it!
Very Cool, and 85GT's are/were the BEST First Fiero's. I really miss my 85GT. (I have an 87 and an 88 GT 5spd cars now)
I am so jealous of you being in Vegas. My wife and I honeymooned there in my 88GT, and even met the Vegas Fiero Shop for some parts. I honestly thought about moving their.
Congrats on the build, we have a 2000 GTP family car, and its great.
------------------ 857GT Part 85GT Part 87GT Part Caddy, 93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Now with Nitrous. Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics For Sale $4000, Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.
Awesome build man. I'm in Vegas too. Since you are in the AF I'm guessing you are on the north side? If so I am too. Hit me up and we can get together some time. You are doing my future build right now and I would love to see how you do everything, even if it's just to learn from your mistakes.
So not much happened this weekend. My fridge froze up and I spent most of the day today dealing with that and yesterday was the first day in 2 weeks that I had off work so it was family day. However, I did have some time to pull the cast number off my engine; it's 24506029. My question is, what does this mean? What year was this block cast? 1996? Capt, I loved my 85 GT, I wish that I kept it. My follow on assignment from Korea was England; it would have been a head turner there. I did see a right hand drive 86 over there for about $5k; I didn't have the money for it and it was riddled with rust.
Mr Corean, I plan on making plenty of mistakes; you're more than welcome to come over an laugh/learn. I don't work on Nellis, the post I work at is closer to the NW side of the city; we're near Cheyenne and Durango.
My first "official" step was to start ordering parts; last week, I ordered a flywheel, low mount alternator bracket and tension mount and dogbone bracket off of Fierorog; I hope they get here soon. I'll need to order an engine mount; I'm hoping that Fierorog will be done developing his 88 bracket by then. If not, I'll have to shop elsewhere.
I'd like my exhaust to run the original through the existing path; preferably in 3 inch width. I'll have to put in headers unless I can modify the front manifold and fabricate a Y pipe to connect them. Has anyone tried this yet?
Hi guys- I was looking at gmtuner's wiring harness pinout on his website, I realized that certain PCM part numbers are affiliated with the year of manufacture. So I grabbed my computer and it's service # 16236757. The tuner page said 1998-2000; well, at least that narrows it down. I also bumped it against rockauto.com, I am almost certain that it's a 98. I still have to get it out to the yard and see if the car is still there. Would my assumption be correct, is this a 98?
I think I (may) have figured out the lack of power and knocking sound of my 2.8. When I replaced the fuel pump, I noticed that one of the lines was not connected to anything. Thinking it was a vent line, I put it back where I found it when I hung the tank. This, I think is the line that goes back to the EVAP canister. My theory is that since they're not connected, there is a significant loss of vacuum, therefore, a loss of power. Now, the knocking. The serpentine belt isn't the tightest and it usually knocks when the throttle is cut off. I'll tighten it today and install that line, fire it up and test my theory.
My parts from fierorog are due in today. I'm really excited; though, it'll have to wait a couple of weeks. I have to go to San Antonio for a couple weeks to do some Air Force stuff. When I get back, I'm taking a couple of weeks off and will probably start aggressively attacking this.
Keep posted, I'll have a video of my 2.8 running and hopefully, properly diagnosed!
I fixed the power issue on the old 2.8; it was the vapor canister that wasn't hooked up to the fuel tank that was the problem. I bypassed the system by plugging the vacuum tubes and the old motor had some kick left in her; unfortunately, the knock/banging/clanging inside the engine got worse. That's it for that I guess; moving onto better things.
I ran a compression test on the new 3.8 and now I'm in need of advice if anybody can advise. My compression was great (I think the L67 was about 155psi throughout all the cylinders. I know the intake manifold gasket is needing replaced; it's the plastic one (I think.) On the forward edge, a black plastic tab between the block and manifold is present making me think that the whole thing is plastic. My question is: Should I replace the head gaskets since I have the engine out or should I leave good enough alone? I know, later on, I'll have the engine out when I upgrade the transmission.
My next question is: will the battery for the Fiero be suitable for the L67 or will I have to upgrade that as well?
My question is: Should I replace the head gaskets since I have the engine out or should I leave good enough alone?
My next question is: will the battery for the Fiero be suitable for the L67 or will I have to upgrade that as well?
I would replace ALL the gaskets now, but that's just me.
When I first got my car (series II 3800SC), it had a stock fiero battery. When it went out, i replaced it with a Bosche Buick Regal battery. BIG difference !
I'll PM you my info.
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 07-07-2014).]
So after two weeks in Yee-Haw Texas, I got home and am spending some time off work. I plan on doing some work on the car; mainly going to strip down the new motor's wiring harness, inspect for defects and mark the wires. I've got copies of the schematics off of GMTuners. With this information, I got onto CorelDraw and created this:
They're little flags that I can use to identify and mark each wire off both harnesses. I've also made little flags identifying the transmission wires and making sure that I don't cut them. I'm not sure if I'll need them for an F23/40 upgrade down the road. If anyone wants the file and has access to a vinyl plotter that uses .EPS files, I'll send it to you after I get back to work.
My spending money for the car is on the backburner at the moment as my fridge is acting funny and the wife's car is on the fritz. The trunion on the clutch master cylinder is made of injection molded plastic which means it will fail and the only way to repair it is to replace the assembly. Unless you buy a chunk of aluminum and fabricate your own! Apparently it's a common problem on newer mustangs; I know it's a Fiero forum but I'm hoping my backyard garage will give you a chuckle!
You really don't need the flags. What I do is unplug all the wires from the PCM connectors. I cut all the splices in the harness, except the Black/White splice. On the Black/White splice cut AT THE SPLICE all wires that run to sensors. Then coil the connector wire tails and wash everything (use a toothbrush, and bathroom cleaner) and rinse in hot water. Then dry and after they are dry tape each. Then after you have them all dressed you can determine which wire bundle is which by the colors of the wires.
I splice the pinks of the injectors on each bank. Then I bunch the pink wire with the three wires running to the injectors.
The most confusing part will be keeping the pinks straight but if you start with them bunched with the wires to those connectors you will know which pink ran to which.
When routing the wires - all route to the PCM (located in the stock location) EXCEPT:
Pink and the white TACH (pin E) wire of the ECM connector The Orange wire of the alternator The Green wire of the CTS Both wires to the reverse switch The starter wire
I tag the wires that run to the PCM in Blue tape I tag the wires that do not run to the PCM in standard color masking tape. That is both grounds that run to the engine ground and the wires that run to C500
Route and bundle the wires on the engine. DO NOT WRAP TAPE THE HARNESS AT THIS TIME. You will find wires you forgot. Just tape to keep the wires in place or use tywraps.
After you have the wires routed and the PCM located add the three wires that run from the PCM to C500 and the orange power wire for the PCM and OBD2 connector.
Grounds that do not run to the PCM 4th pin of the oil pressure switch if you use the 120 psi Bonneville sender Heated O2 sensor AT switch ground MAF ground OBD2 ground (S) there are two of them C500 ground C203 ground
When you start making your PCM connections make them one sensor wire bundle at a time.
Thanks for the info phonedawgz, I don't have a way to remove the pins (yet), my first plan was to map the wires, fit them, then shrink and extend the wires as needed. Investing in a pin puller may be worth the investment! I'm definitely going to clean the harnesses, I've only stripped back about a third of it and there's at least 5 pounds of dirt in it. I planned on keeping the transmission plugs for the eventual use of the F-23/40, good idea or waste of space? Also, does the tach wire have a filter in it or can I just plug and play? I also found some broken terminals; I'll replace them as I build the harness. Thanks for looking!
[This message has been edited by solman105 (edited 07-25-2014).]
Hi guys- My project is going slower than I expected, I wish I had more time in the day! Besides the timing assembly, I've got my new engine torn down. I do have a couple of questions and was wondering if someone could help me out.
I pulled the #1 and 2 main bearings; they look good. No major damage. However, since I've pulled them, I might as well change them. I don't know which ones to purchase though; I'm not sure if they're oversized, undersized or standard. The part numbers that I got off of the bearings on the caps were both 18020192 77 G81. I googled the big number and couldn't find it. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction to find out how to interpret the part number?
I got all the dirt off of the short block, going to do the heads tonight. My gaskets should be ordered next week and I'll start rebuilding it soon thereafter. As far as replacing things, I'm going to replace the timing chain, these bearings and whatever gaskets/seals go with it. The paint on the outside is in great shape.
Labor day weekend will be when things start picking up; I'm going to get the old engine out of the car and cradle cleaned up. By the end of September, I should have the new engine put back together and start fitting it in October. I'm hoping that Fierorog will be able to have an 88 motor bracket ready by then. Photos coming soon!
Help! I'm stuck in a rut; I'm hoping to get some advice....Please!
I'm trying to get the crank/harmonic balancer pulley off the 3800 Series II SC motor. I got the bolt off but the pulley itself is on there wicked good. We've tried a puller with the little fingers; we put them in the small holes around the big bolt hole but that started to damage the pulley. We've used a prybar near the oil filter; no luck. We've also used a block of wood and hammer; no luck either.
Has anybody got any ideas? What are we doing wrong?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Onto better news; parts for the motor are coming in. I've got a complete gasket set ready to go on my motor. I was pondering if I should replace the timing chain but since I've gone this far, I might as well do it.
My plan is this upcoming weekend is to pull the old motor out, wish me luck!
Thanks for the info phonedawgz, I don't have a way to remove the pins (yet),
PCM pins remove with the only tool kinda needed is a small straight screwdriver Remove the covers. The pin will pull backwards if you have one hand holding the pin away from the center, one hand holding the finger off of the pin and a third hand pulling the wire backwards. Yes you need to do all three actions.
quote
I planned on keeping the transmission plugs for the eventual use of the F-23/40, good idea or waste of space?
Yes save them
quote
Also, does the tach wire have a filter in it or can I just plug and play?
From the 8 pin ICM to engine harness connector run a white wire from the engine side connector - pin E to C500 C3. No filter is needed. There might not be a terminal in the connector hole for pin E. Pull one from a different connector and move it to that location if there is not
quote
I also found some broken terminals; I'll replace them as I build the harness. Thanks for looking!
Terminal - metal pin inside the connector Seal - either the individual or multiple wire seal at the back of the wire Connector - the plastic part that houses the terminals and seals.
If you need some connectors hit me up and I do sell them quite reasonably.
Sorry for the slow postings, my project is going at a snail's pace; not too much to report. However, I've got the motor out of the car and sitting on axle jacks. I did take the cradle off with the calipers because I've got to flush the system anyways. This week, I hope to disconnect the old 2.8 from the transmission/cradle assembly and finish buttoning up the new engine.
I do have a question about my new engine, I was hoping that someone could help me out.
When I tore apart the oil filter adapter from the timing cover, I found a spring and a cap on my workbench. Come to find out it's a baffle for the oil pump. I figured out where it goes but I don't know how it goes in. Does the cap go inside the engine block like in photo A or does it go into the filter adapter like in picture B?
Also, what do these components do? I'm guessing it has to do with oil pressure; when the pressure builds up, it compresses the spring?
My next question is, can I cap off the timing cover and LIM water holes? Does anybody do anything with these, like maybe, installing an engine flush kit?
Come to find out, the alternator that I got with the engine does not work with the low mount setup that I'm going with. FieroRog's brackets are designed for the 99-03 alternators and I'm a 1998. No worries, I can find one of those easily! A long time ago, I put a 4.3 into a Jeep YJ, I had a spare alternator from that build and hoped that it would work; no go. I'll put them on the mall after my project is done, unless someone needs them now.
My last update is that I'm going to try to eliminate the massive blind spot created by the sail panel scoops. I'm going to make some brackets out of fiberglass that will hold some windows; they'll either be fastened or bonded into the existing structure. I first started with a piece of wood and a router, mapped out my dimensions and cut 1/4" into the wood.
Here's the final result of my mold. My next step is to lay down some impregnated cloth on it, build a vacuum bag and cure. Trim up and hopefully it'll look good. I'll post photos of the end result later.
My scoops will be functional, I have to come up with a way to cap off the inside. On my driver's side, I'll build the motor intake; the passenger side will be an oil cooler of some sorts. I'm in the process of figuring out that one now!
Waiting on an engine mount and clutch; once I have those parts in hand, I'd like to think things will speed up again.
Thanks for looking!!
**Had to edit as photos A and B weren't working**
[This message has been edited by solman105 (edited 09-22-2014).]
First off; thanks for reading, I'm chugging on this thing slowly. My motor bracket should be here for this upcoming weekend, I'm helping FieroRog develop his mount for the 88 cradle. FrankenFiero will be the one that puts concept into reality and pictures of his product(s) will be coming soon.
I almost have the old engine and transmission separated, however, I forgot to take off the dust covers. Once they're off, I'll hopefully have the old 2.8 off. Then, clean what I have and have it ready for trials on Saturday.
My idea of using a Quarter window scoop for the engine intake has failed; I realized that there's not enough body underneath the scoop to make a cut large enough to let enough air into the intake. However, I do have enough space to drill holes large enough for oil/water cooler lines. I could put some motorcycle oil coolers up there and take some of the heat off the engine.
Finally, I'm in the process of ordering parts for the clutch and have a question. Do I use a Fiero throwout bearing or a 3.8 Camaro? I would assume the Fiero; any help would greatly be appreciated.
I've been helping FieroRog with the development of his 88 engine bracket; I received the prototype this week for fitting. I also asked him to keep it unpainted (his products are usually black) so it'd stand out in the photos he needed. I also wanted to keep it glossy and bright so I can keep it clean and inspect for cracks later on down the road. Also this weekend, I replaced the rubber transmission mount; I'm glad I did. The front one was completely torn up.
Today, Nate (Mr Corean) stopped by to check out my build; he's got an 87 GT. Come to find out, I've seen his car at the local park and ride and never even knew it was his! Cool dude; I'm going to (try to) help him with his 3800sc project when he's ready for it.
Back to my project; here's some pics of the engine mount, mock up etc....
The mount on the cradle:
Here's the motor bolted to the new bracket and transmission. Looks like a great fit; may have to hit a hole or two with a dremel tool to smooth it out.
My wife took most of the pictures; she's got fancy cameras, I've got FrankenFiero.
If you order rubber engine mounts from RockAuto, please be aware that the 88 engine mount is incorrectly listed. The mount they sell is marked for the 88 V6 is actually the 85-87. If you buy a mount from them, order the 1988 4 cylinder mount. I ordered from them back in December; I learned about the error this week!
This week's do list consists of removing the motor from the cradle assembly and finish up the rebuild. I have the oil seals to install, the oil pan, the harmonic balancer, and the flywheel. I'll get a clutch in a few weeks and put it back on the cradle. Once I'm done with that, the assembly will be installed back in the car. From there, I'll start the wiring.
Ran into a problem when I took out the throwout bearing. There was a wire/spring attached to the clutch fork and intertwined with the bearing. I don't know how it goes back on; or better yet, if it's needed. So far, the internet hasn't told me anything and the Haynes manual doesn't even mention it. Can anyone help?
This week I also cut the supercharger pulleys/old ignition coil/torque strut bracket down. I removed the strut bracket and half of the ignition coil mount. I would have taken all of the coil mount off but I don't want to destabilize the pulley bracket side. I'll throw it on once the engine is mated to the transmission/cradle.
Before
During, took forever with a high speed grinder!
After
With a coat of paint; the pulley snout is in the background
[This message has been edited by solman105 (edited 10-19-2014).]
Ran into a problem when I took out the throwout bearing. There was a wire/spring attached to the clutch fork and intertwined with the bearing. I don't know how it goes back on; or better yet, if it's needed. So far, the internet hasn't told me anything and the Haynes manual doesn't even mention it. Can anyone help?
I have never seen this spring before, but if I was to guess it is to help reduce the throw out bearing rattle that is fairly common on the getrag, or at least common from my experiences.
Thats really handy, I would say give it a try and see if it works it would be neat to know if there was a way to reduce some of that noise, it gets a little annoying
Hi Guys and Gals My new engine has been mated to the clutch and transmission; I'm almost ready to put it into the car. Before the cradle goes in, I've got to replace the fuel pump.
With that saying, I think I may have put the old engine to pasture too early. If you look on my introductory post, I've got a couple of video clips of it running. I could deal with lack of power with tuning but the clunking was the deciding factor as to why I started the motor replacement. I drained the oil, it was new when I put it in, came out dirty. No metal shavings. Oil filter is free of debris as well. My question is, could that clunking sound be caused by failed transmission mounts and cracks in the exhaust manifolds/y-pipes?
I've begun stripping the old motor down, if anyone needs anything off of it, let me know. PM me with what you want and I'll let you know if it's still here.
I should have the (correct) alternator, elbows for the heater core input, and fuel pump in this week. Once these are installed, the new motor goes in.
One more question, I priced the parts for doing headers and a 3" exhaust in the stock routing. Nearly had a heart attack. If I were to use the stock 3800 manifolds, can I put a 3" muffler system with a catalytic converter without cutting any of the trunk out? If so, does anyone have photos? Thanks!
Lmao, I know that car. Good to see a decent engine going in it, as the po seemed to put a lot of work into the fiberglassing on the Fiero, just so everyone knows, custom sail panels, custom ground effects, custom hood scoop, I always wanted to see this Fiero modded. Sorry I took out your dash display, I couldn't pass up the blue and silver gauges. D) That was years before you bought it.
Wait, what.....blue gauges???? Joking, it's got the/a stock dash in it; later down the road I'll upgrade it.
The new fuel pump should be coming in tomorrow; I got a brand new AC Delco EP381 off of Ebay for $38 shipped. The tank is removed already and will go back in this weekend. I've also got my heater core input line in work. FieroRog gave me his pointer of using an aluminum elbow pressed into the hole. A metal bracket would be bolted in to keep it in place. The elbows are on the way and we'll see how that goes tomorrow.
The alternator will be here soon; the last piece of the front part of the engine. I''m going to see how feasible it is to weld up the exhaust manifolds and install them. Then, I'll hang the cradle. Hopefully, this will be done by the end of the month!
I passed a big milestone this past week; the motor is in! Only ran into a couple of hiccups, first, my Mrs. was at the control of the engine hoist; I'd asked her to slowly bring the car down ontop of the engine and cradle assembly. I was pulling the shock away and the plan was to slowly let the car move into position. Instead, FrankenFiero was let down at the speed of sound! Hydraulics.......ya know?
The other hiccup was with the front passenger cradle bolt; it was reluctant to go in. Everything else lined up, so I expected it. But with some jockeying, it finally went in and now the car is back on the ground. One thing that I noticed was that the backside is about 1/2" lower than the front, is there a way to rectify this, the replacement of the shocks maybe?
Now the fun parts begin, this week the back end will be put on sticks so that I can get under the car and work the plumbing, wiring, and exhaust. I hope to have her running by the first of March!
Here are the photos
Going Up!!!
And It's In!!
[This message has been edited by solman105 (edited 11-16-2014).]
Sorry I haven't posted in a while; I've been busy with work and sick as a dog. However, I did start on the wiring.
For starters, I've relocated my MAP sensor to the rear of the engine. I've built a bracket that goes between the two holes on the fuel rail. Not only will my MAP be here, I've also put a Hella 6 terminal fuse block on it. This will hold the fuses the wiring harness (injectors and the other one.) The other four terminals can be utilized later if needed. I'm also going to drill a hole for an adel clamp to hold the wiring harness. All wires going into the passenger compartment run under this bracket.
My EVAP solenoid will be near the supercharger snout. The vacuum source for this will be the one directly above the water output to the heater core. With the exception of the brakes, all other devices requiring vacuum will receive it from the top of the supercharger. The brakes will receive it from the throttle body.
Here's the wires coming off of the throttle body. I've zip tied the connectors to the componenents because I don't want to damage them. Plus, the extra slack will help in future removal/install (I hope) I broke a knock sensor connector so I'll have to make a run to the junkyard and get another one later. (Sorry for the low quality picture)
Finally, underneath the car is about 50% mocked up. My reverse light and speedometer connectors were trashed, for some reason I had some laying around and will put them in this week along with the AC Pressure switch wires. That will go closer to the fiero side connection; those 3 wires will run behind the heat shield. I will also be drilling a hole in this general area for an adel clamp to hold the wires in place.
Some dilemmas I've been thinking about: exhaust. I need a catalytic converter to pass smog. I've been thinking about putting a 3 inch single input/2 inch dual output in the place where the muffler is supposed to go and some sort of exhaust tip/muffler combination at the end of the line. Has anyone done this? What other options are out there? I'm trying to prevent the cutting of the trunk and one day I may run headers and exhaust in the original Fiero path. But for now I'm trying to keep the cost down and get her back on the road.
I've noticed an oil stain on the bottom of the transmission; I'm 99% sure that it's not coming from inside the clutch area (it's dry up there) How often does the transmission leak around the case? I'm not worried about it (yet) When/if the transmission/clutch fails, the whole assembly will be out again and an F23 will go in in its place.
I'm pretty sure that I stuffed up the install of the supercharger. I forgot to put in the O rings. However, I did RTV everything. Rather risk failure, I'm going to replace it when the harness comes off. I also have a new set of valve covers that need to go on. I cracked them when I pulled parts off the engine this past summer. Oops
I do have a question; it's probably a stupid one, but I'm looking over the wiring diagrams. Does the VSS high and low signals go to both the ECM and the C203 connector or is it just to the ECM, Blue 64 and 65? I'm thinking just to the ECM; I would think the C203 connection found its way to the ECM; I'm now just making the signal direct.
Also, I know it can be deleted out of the programming, but does the car perform any better when the second O2 sensor is removed?
Most of the upper engine wiring harness is mocked up. I've got the back three injectors, air intake sensor, Coolant temp sensor, (possibly) the second O2 sensor connections to put in and then I'll go below and finish up the bottom. I've got to extend about 10 or so wires to get them to the ECM. When I get them zip tied (tidy) I'll post a few photos.
Somebody who knows better than me will probably chime in, but i don't think the 3800SC uses VSS high and low. If you're not using the stock fiero speedo and cruise control, you probably don't need it. If you are, VSS high and low go into the buffer and a single signal comes out.
The top half of the engine's wiring harness is almost in place; I've got to extend some wires and splice the injectors, MAF EGR, ETC. So far, so good. Once those wires are extended and in place, I'll cinch everything down with zip ties and finish the bottom. My bracket that will hold the fuse block, and MAP sensor will be redesigned to also hold the ignition coil. I'll find a way to hold the speedo buffer circuit as well (Thanks PaulJK; I almost forgot about that part)
Here's the mess!
Here's inside so far. I may widen the hole so that the ECM and other connectors can fit in.
On the C500 connnector, I see a couple of fusable links. Do I need to cut them out and fuse them somewhere else; possibly my fuse block?
I'll find a way to hold the speedo buffer circuit as well (Thanks PaulJK; I almost forgot about that part)
On the C500 connnector, I see a couple of fusable links. Do I need to cut them out and fuse them somewhere else; possibly my fuse block?
When you're ready to wire your gauges, let me know - I can handle that .
I don't recall any fuseable links on my C500, but I'd just move them (use crimp connectors) downstream to where the junction and other links are located. Do not eliminate them. New fuseable links are available at Auto parts stores if you need them, but i'd use the factory ones first.
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 01-04-2015).]
Hi guys, things are going steadily; for the most part, the top of the engine is mocked up! When I bought the car, the steering column had the buttons for cruise control but none of the guts in the back of the car was present. I'm not sure where the relay is for it; if it's next to the fuel pump and AC relay, it's not there anymore. However, there are these wires; they're on the driver's side of the car and I'm using the shock tower as a reference point. Are these the cruise control connectors?
If it is what I'm hoping it is (the cruise control wiring,) does anybody have a schematic for it? Better yet, does anybody have a guide to integrate the cruise control box into the existing car wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here's the upper half of the wiring, all cleaned up. I've put in the post-cat O2 sensor wiring; just in case I need it. I will need a catalytic converter to pass smog. My CTS green wire is dangling at the moment, I'll run that wire when I start building that connector. I'll then zip tie them into place with black ties later so I don't get confused. Also, if you look at the picture of the snout, there's a green wire out in the middle of nowhere; I believe that this is to some accessory lights that the previous owner installed in the bumper. It's low hanging fruit so I haven't torn into it yet. Most likely it'll disappear at the end of this project. All wires underneath the car will run to the top of the engine where the ICM used to be housed; that orange bracket. My ICM will most likely go on the rear wall with an extension to the cam/crank position sensor wiring. That's next week
Thanks again for looking; I hope that it's been entertaining!
Not much progress on the car this week; it's just been a busy one with school and work. I'm taking an American literature class (pre civil war) and the language is killing me! Moving on; I did pick up some new relays for the fuel pump, AC and cruise control. They're going to go in the original spot. The ICM is bolted to the rear wall of the engine bay; I'm not sure if I like the location. If I keep it here I'm going to make a heat shield to protect it from the exhaust heat. I'm going to need to cut the bottom of my trunk out to fit the exhaust. Out of carboard boxes, I've built exhaust components so I can mock them up and see how/if they'll fit before I make the investment.
My question for this week is this: I was browsing the forums and I found an article about hotwiring your ICM; is this a good idea? It doesn't seem hard to do and if it'll positively affect the performance, this may be the best time to do it.
I'm almost done wiring up my C500 harness but ran into a couple of issues
My 88 Formula has a green wire in A1 and A2. I know A2 is a ground, should I worry?
What would the green A2 be?
Thanks for the help!
My updates......
All the wires are routed to where they're supposed to go. It's now time to cap them off with the connectors. The C500 is just about done. I ran into some confusion with the coolant temp wiring but with phonedawgz's harness printout I think it's sorted.
I've gone ahead and hotwired the fuel pump and and ignition power. I saw somewhere on here that it gave an extra couple of volts. Good idea?
I'm going to finish the C500 and level out the car so I can safely get in and start the inside wiring. I'm also ordering the parts for the exhaust this week. I am needing a PCM programed as well
Hi Guys and Gals, I'm sorry that I haven't been posting to this lately; my kid dropped my phone in the toilet and the replacement phone I got bites as a camera. I grabbed my old point and click and here are some updates.
First, I went ahead and painted my valve covers. My engine components, for now will be orange. Chances are, they'll burn off!
At the same time, I'd went ahead and sorted all of the wires coming into the passenger compartment. I used a piece of wood and cut some holes; one for each terminal. Once all separated, I zip tied them and pulled the whole harness. From there I added the connectors to the harnesses. They're too long gut that will be ok.
Meanwhile, I cut the lower part of the trunk out. It'll get replaced with an aluminum sheet I have in the garage. I need the space for the exhaust system. Because of emissions, I need the Catalytic converter. The exhaust will come out of the OEM manifolds, through a flex pipe, turn right (towards the passenger side) and through a U bend. Then it'll go through the catalytic converter, muffler and out the tailpipes. The catalytic converter is a Magnaflow; a flowtech muffler. My plan is to clamp the muffler and cat; that way I can take them out if needed. The pipe between the two components will have a bracket welded to help mount the system and an bung for the post cat O2 sensor. Ryan at Sinister programmed my computer without that sensor but I may need it for show. I don't have a welder, don't know how to weld either; so the car may be going on a field trip to the exhaust shop pretty soon. I just have to secure a trailer!
I made an error on the motor before I installed it; the 2 little O-rings weren't installed between the supercharger and the LIM. I did RTV everything but wanted to err on the side of caution and put them in. So my son Mason helped me with the work; it was his first time using a torque wrench.
Jeez kid, it's only 17 ft lbs!
Here's the wiring harness 99% done. I haven't put the OBDII connector on and there are a couple of ground wires that need trimming. Everything going to my fuse terminal needs doing as well.
My ICM harness. I extended my Cam and Crankshaft sensor wires so it'd run with the main harness. I've identified it with yellow stripes
For ease of removal and installiation of the wiring harness, I went ahead and cut the metal out between the wiring harnesses that go from the passenger to the engine compartment. It'll proivide plenty of space for the big connectors. It'll help out a lot whenever I have to drop the cradle assembly in the future. I will bolt/seal a plate in it's place with a couple of holes for the wires
And now it's time to feed the harness into the car.
Looking inside: The harnesses are a little long; once I get my computer bracket fabricated, I'll figure this out.
So, that's it for now. Thanks for looking. Like I said, my computer is ready to go and my biggest hurdle right now is the exhaust. I hope to have that one figured out this week or next.
I had a question but I forgot what it was; it must have not been that important.
I "lost" my car for 2 weeks as my friend welded up my exhaust. It looks good, it's in there solid, I do need to find some way of hanging it.
My vacuum lines are plumbed but I snapped the vacuum port off the supercharger bypass solenoid so I will have to venture into the junkyard soon.
The big port on the vacuum manifold still needs plugging. I will figure that one out this weekend.
I will throw some photos on here this weekend, my son thought my cel phone was a boat and my replacement phone's camera is junk. I now use my old point and shoot.
I am in a potential wiring pickle. The OBD II port that I got out of the junkyard has a few wires that don't have homes. Nowhere on the internet can I find their location. Does anyone know where the following go to?
OBD II wire 8 OBD II wire 11 OBD II wire 14
I don't think they go anywhere in this build but any help would be greatly appreciated.
I got it to run today, the first 5 times turning it over it sputtered, the 6th time around and it fired right up! The throttle response on it is wicked!!!
I did have a problem at first. When I put the battery in, the fuel pump fired up and never turned off. So, I panicked. After I came to grips, I began the troubleshooting. Turns out that I didn't connect the wires right on the relay. A little bit of moving around and it was as good as gold.
I did find out that the tach isn't responding. I will have to check if the ICM is sending a pulse and go from there.
My #2 spark plug isn't torqued down; it's hand tight. The low mounted alternator is in the way and I'll have to remove it before I can finish the plug.
A previous owner had jacked up the car incorrectly and bent the passenger coolant tube. I cut the damage off and replaced it with a 45* rubber elbow and a T-fitting. Doesn't look the prettiest but it'll do.
No check engine lights; I will plug my code reader into it to make sure that it's not a bulb out or something. I haven't replaced the supercharger bypass solenoid yet.
Mr. Corean was nice enough to give me his non-cracked exhaust manifolds from his NA 2004 engine. Come to find out, they're not exactly the same as the ones that I used in the mockup of the exhaust. My whole system shifted aboout 2" to the right with the new manifolds.
I've only put 10 quarts of coolant in the motor, I have much more to put in!
I put a 100 amp fuse in between the alternator and the battery for safe measure. It's 2 gauge wire between the points but I don't need to blow the car up.
Many thanks to Ryan at Sinister Performance and Phonedawgz for all the electrical knowledge, FieroRog for the brackets, my buddy Zack for welding up my exhaust.
the L67 was about 155psi throughout all the cylinders. I know the intake manifold gasket is needing replaced; it's the plastic one (I think.) On the forward edge, a black plastic tab between the block and manifold is present making me think that the whole thing is plastic. My question is: Should I replace the head gaskets since I have the engine out or should I leave good enough alone? I know, later on, I'll have the engine out when I upgrade the transmission. 
I couldn't pass up the blue and silver gauges. D)
. Hope you're feeling better. Looking good 
