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Car wont go into gear by painandgain99
Started on: 11-27-2015 10:49 PM
Replies: 215 (3540 views)
Last post by: andreww on 02-21-2017 04:32 PM
painandgain99
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Report this Post11-27-2015 10:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Such a happy day. Drove an hour to get some snow tires who a very generous member sold to me. Spent all day trying to get the locking nuts off my old rims since i did not have the lock nut key. Went and got my first paycheck. Spent 280$ on license plates, title transfer and insurance. Took it out on the road and bought a bunch of McDonalds for all of my friends to celebrate. And bam. Wouldnt go in (or sometime even out) of gear. I had to pull over with my hazards 6 times to try to get it to go into gear. And awkwardly wait for my window to slowly go down so i could wave the person to go.

So, i believe it is not the clutch. Reason being, once i finally got it into gear, it drove perfectly normal. Idk what this is. It wouldnt go into any gear. Kept pumping the clutch and several times it took me a good minute or two to get it into gear. Then it got stuck in reverse, pumpee the clutch and all of a sudden it went into all gears. Then couldnt go into any once again. I eventually got it back home and now as its parked and off, it goes into all the gears just fine. It was driving fine once in gear. And when it WAS getting into gear, it was kind of rough. Shook the csr ever so slightly. So any help guys? Could the master cylinder rod be bent or something... do i need to bleed the line? The master cylinder fluid is brown but i figured it'd hold up a while... my dad is home for a few days from California to help me with whatever.

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Report this Post11-28-2015 12:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You have air in the clutch system. The common suspect is the slave cylinder but the MC can pull air, too. Two places to check for leaks. Slip the rubber boot off the pushrod end of the slave and see if there's fluid present. The other place takes a little contorting. Go underneath the dash and feel around the pushrod where it goes into the back of the master cylinder. It's difficult to see and sometimes the fluid will run down behind the carpet. Feel with your finger for any fluid coming out of the back of the master cylinder.

You could also be boiling the fluid if the clutch fluid line is too close to the coolant hose or exhaust where the line comes up from beneath the chassis to attach to the slave.

You can bleed the system by yourself by jacking up the left front wheel until it's just barely off the ground. No need to try depressing the slave pushrod or finding a helper to pump the pedal. Pumping the pedal just breaks up the bubbles into small ones and they will eventually bind back into large ones.

Fill the MC reservoir all the way to the top, leave the cap off and the open can of fluid close by.
Now, go back to the slave and open the bleeder. Rap on the side of the slave 4, 5, or 6 times to dislodge any air that's stuck in the pushrod end.
Keep an eye on the MC reservoir and as the fluid level reaches about halfway between the low mark and empty, fill it back to the top.
Now go back and tap on the slave some more.
Repeat the MC fillup and when the fluid drops down to the full mark, go back and close the slave bleeder.
Replace the MC cap and put your can of fluid away.
You should have an operational clutch.

You can insulate the fluid line from heat by covering it with a piece of plastic wire loom cover. Cover it from the bottom where it is fastened to the chassis, all the way up to the bottom of the braided flex line. If you have no air leaks, this should stop any future air bubbles.
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Report this Post11-28-2015 01:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AustralianClick Here to visit Australian's HomePageClick Here to Email AustralianSend a Private Message to AustralianEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It is going to be the slave cylinder I have a volvo one now as kept going through the fiero slaves. Has same problems with rebuild kits.
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Report this Post11-28-2015 06:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RodneyClick Here to visit Rodney's HomePageClick Here to Email RodneySend a Private Message to RodneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hold a scale by the cast lever on the trans that the slave push rod pushes against. Have someone push in the clutch. It should (ideally) move about 7/8". If it is less than that this is probably your problem. The clutch pedal should also be about an inch above the brake pedal. Is the slave cast iron and all rusty?

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painandgain99
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Report this Post11-28-2015 10:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thank you for the help guys, and rodney, im not sure but i will check. The car it pretty rust free but the master cylindee does have some rust, so ill assume the slave does aswell. Im going to search around for some tutorials with photos for bleeding the clutch or checking it. As stupid as that sounds ๐Ÿ˜‚ i dont understand directions very well

Update: Checked the slave and master cylinder.both are rusty. The master cylinder rod seems to be beginning to bend a tiny bit, and looks kind of wet.
This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

the fluid in the cap is dark brown...
This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

The slave is very rusty. Im going to bleed it in a little bit. People mentioned bleeding both slave and master, are their different procedures and do i need a bleed kit? My dad thinks we can bleed the slave throu
gh the nut the same way you bleed brakes. And that moister is liquid wrench, nothing was leaking.

I want to rule out if its just air, or if one of the cylinders needs replacements. i only have enough money for 1 of rodneys until i get my next paycheck in two weeks.

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87' GT 5 speed ๐Ÿ˜ค 16 years old
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[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 11-28-2015).]

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Report this Post11-28-2015 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Your Dad is correct. You can bleed the system just like you bleed brakes, but if you use the gravity bleed system I described, you won't have to pump and hold and you won't be breaking up the air bubbles into tiny ones that stay in the line, requiring a second bleed, sometimes. Master cylinders usually don't need a separate bleed except when installing a new one, it's best to bench bleed it before installation.

The MC pushrod does look wet as does a spot on the carpet padding just below the rod. Should you find the need to replace the MC, be sure the curl of the pushrod is upward where it attaches to the pedal.

Even though the outside of the master or slave cylinder might look rusted, it's the inside that counts. They can be rusted much worse than yours and still work just fine. It just depends upon the environment they've been in.
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Report this Post11-28-2015 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tony KaniaSend a Private Message to Tony KaniaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Start with the slave.

FYI, Rodneys slave cylinders are the cat's azz. Superior design.
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Report this Post11-28-2015 03:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JfrostSend a Private Message to JfrostEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Fieros have a way of demotivating you to work on them with what can and will go wrong. Like many others I've had quite a few set backs with mine and my L67 swap but fought through them. Keep up the good work as it'll be worth it in the end. Glad to help out where possible.

[This message has been edited by Jfrost (edited 11-28-2015).]

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Report this Post11-28-2015 04:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Shho13Click Here to Email Shho13Send a Private Message to Shho13Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jfrost:

Fieros have a way of demotivating you to work on them with what can and will go wrong.



You can say that again!

It's wayyy worth it though. By a long shot!

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Report this Post11-28-2015 04:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JfrostSend a Private Message to JfrostEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Fieros have a way of demotivating you to work on them with what can and will go wrong. Like many others I've had quite a few set backs with my L67 swap but fought through them. Keep up the good work and it'll be worth it in the end. Glad to help out where possible.
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Report this Post11-28-2015 05:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bleed the clutch fully. Ran all new fluid through. Slave had over an inch of space, deff more than 7/8. Then it drove good for awhile and then started not going into gear again now. What now ? Should i start with replacing the slave?

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Report this Post11-28-2015 05:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Should i start with replacing the slave?


A dual-seal slave cylinder like what Rodney sells is always an excellent upgrade for any 4 or 5-spd Fiero. However, your clutch master cylinder is obviously leaking as well (as per your image). Bite the bullet and replace both at the same time from Rodney. Otherwise you'll be messing about with this issue week after week.

* We've already been all through this two months ago. Why are you dragging this out and covering old territory?

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick on 09-29-2015 in This thread:

If you're buying either a clutch master or slave cylinder, I think you'd be making a big mistake not buying them from Rodney Dickman. You have NO idea how much we suffered with the crappy clutch cylinders available for our Fieros before Rodney started having his high quality units made. Check them out HERE.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-28-2015).]

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Report this Post11-28-2015 05:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Bleed the clutch and it started happening again etc.... my father thought it couldnt be the clutch cause it sas doing it even while the car was off. He mentioned it might be the linkage. I only have money for 1 of the cylinders at the moment, which should i do first? Like i said, slaveis getting enough clearance


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Report this Post11-28-2015 06:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I don't know why you're attributing something you said to me.

If you're trying to say you still only have enough funds for one clutch cylinder instead of two, that's unfortunate... but if they're both toast they both need to be replaced.
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Report this Post11-28-2015 07:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


I don't know why you're attributing something you said to me.

If you're trying to say you still only have enough funds for one clutch cylinder instead of two, that's unfortunate... but if they're both toast they both need to be replaced.


Hello patrick. Yes i will definitely go with rodney, i never said i wouldnt. Im just curious since I need a ride to work now, if only one of these cylinders is causing it to not be able to shift, id like to order that one tonight. And the next one in 2 weeks when i get paid.

Id just like to be sure this is whats causing it. 3 times now it happened where it wouldnt go into gear, all 3 times it drove fine at first. Drove excellent. Then 15 minutes down the road at a stop light it wouldnt go into first. Very scary for a new driver at night far away from home. Id like to pinpoint exactly what this is. Im not sure how all of the mechanics of the system work, but i figured if it was the clutch wouldnt it be grinding gears or not driving ? And if it was one of the cylinders wouldnt it work when i was parked and the clutch wasnt spinning? Id really like to figure this out without paying a mechanic

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Report this Post11-28-2015 07:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

And if it was one of the cylinders wouldnt it work when i was parked and the clutch wasnt spinning?


Are you saying it doesn't? Are you saying when the engine isn't running that you can't shift into gear?
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painandgain99
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Report this Post11-28-2015 07:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Are you saying it doesn't? Are you saying when the engine isn't running that you can't shift into gear?


Yes. Then ill leave it a bit and get back in the car and it'll shift fine for awhile. Then start not going into gear again

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Report this Post11-28-2015 07:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I could be wrong, but isn't there a plate on the manual that can cause this? I know I had a linkage issue with a car years ago.

Either way, bleeding the clutch wouldn't fix this, even temporarily. I sortof suspect the master/slave cylinders or a bigger problem.

I think this is the pain and gain. It can be rough, working out the bugs on a car. This is something you have to plan/allow for. Yes, you've got to catch a ride, for now. Park it until you can fix it right, so you don't cause more issues, but you do need to do some troubleshooting:
1. Without starting, try going through the gears, both with and without using the clutch. Do not force it. Take note of each time it does or does not go into a gear, or out of a gear.
2. Again, without starting, repeat step 1 5 times at intervals.
3. Start, but do not turn the rear wheels, and try going through the gears. Do not force it. Take note of each time it does or does not go into a gear, or out of a gear.
4. Repeat step 3 5 times at intervals.
5. Post the results of these tests, complete with each gear change attempt. This should be the baseline.

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 11-28-2015).]

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Report this Post11-28-2015 07:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Have you checked the oil level in the tranny, and have you adjusted the shifter cables? Because if the cables are adjusted properly, and you still can't shift into gear while the engine isn't running, you might be looking at serious issues... ie pulling the tranny.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post11-28-2015 08:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


Have you checked the oil level in the tranny, and have you adjusted the shifter cables? Because if the cables are adjusted properly, and you still can't shift into gear while the engine isn't running, you might be looking at serious issues... ie pulling the tranny.


How to check this? I havent done either of those
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Report this Post11-28-2015 08:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I still think the main problem is the MC. Borrow the interest free funds from your dad. Order the MC and slave from Rodney at the same time and save shipping costs. Install both at once with your dad's help and you will only have to bleed the system once.
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Report this Post11-28-2015 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

I still think the main problem is the MC...


How so? With no master cylinder (leaving my foot off the clutch pedal with the engine not running), I can go through the gears very easily in my Formula or in my '84 duke (with an Izusu 5-spd). The MC in the OP's Fiero may indeed be bad, but if what he says is correct, then his car has other issues (possibly entailing pulling the tranny) which are preventing the tranny from going into gear.

 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

How to check this? I havent done either of those


Seriously, you need to start looking up basic stuff yourself that's been posted here a hundred times. If you can't find an appropriate thread by simply scrolling through the forum pages, use the Search function.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-28-2015).]

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Report this Post11-28-2015 10:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for AustralianClick Here to visit Australian's HomePageClick Here to Email AustralianSend a Private Message to AustralianEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:



I broke Rodneys too but i blame my shifting Best thing sold is the reinforced arm as that snaps too.

[This message has been edited by Australian (edited 11-28-2015).]

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Report this Post11-28-2015 11:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If everyone agrees based off of the events that its both of one of the clutch cylinders, i will order them both. Here is the series of events of the gears locking up.

Drove to gas station after putting on tires, drove fine, drove back, dropped off my dad, 5 minutes down the road wouldnt go into 1st t a stop sign. Drove it home and had to pull over several times to get it in gear.

Second time, bled the clutch system, drove for a good 20 minutes, drove my dad home, 5 minutes down the road stopped shifting again.

Third time, while i was out tonight my dad took it for a long drive. Went on the express way, all around town etc. The car runs great. Once its in gear there are NO problems. Then once he got home pulling into the driveway, it wouldnt go into first.

Right now as it sits, it will shift just fine into all gears. Right now i can drive it around and it will shift fine for a few miles. Once the gears locked up, i can turn the car off and park it and it still wont go into gear. But once i wait awhile, it will go into them fine once again. So this is my best description possible of the events. The clutch is not as hard as it was one point during bleeding. But it is not super soft. I have the money for 1 cylinder and i can probably borrow the other money, but i would like to be pretty confident they are the problem otherwise i will invest my money in what IS the problem first. The gears do NOT grind. When gears start to lock up but it is still shifting, the shift lever feels rough but the car does not shake. And when it will not shift, it doesnt grind, it just will not go into gear. Pumping DOES help eventually. So does time.


Sidenote to Patrick who once again seems frustrated eith my adolescent self, most of the time when im on the site, im in the middle of something and sneak a word in so i dont always read correctly. Yes i know how to check the fluid in the tranny. No i have not. No i do not know how to adjust the cables.
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87' GT 5 speed ๐Ÿ˜ค 16 years old
My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos

[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 11-28-2015).]

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Report this Post11-29-2015 08:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:
Sidenote to Patrick who once again seems frustrated eith my adolescent self, most of the time when im on the site, im in the middle of something and sneak a word in so i dont always read correctly. Yes i know how to check the fluid in the tranny. No i have not. No i do not know how to adjust the cables.


If you think about it, we are volunteers and probably also in the middle of something. Basically, you're saying that you don't have the time to put forth the effort to hold up your end. The forum members are taking their time to give you pointers. You still have to do the work, whether looking up info, or following the instructions provided.

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 11-29-2015).]

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Report this Post11-29-2015 10:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:


If you think about it, we are volunteers and probably also in the middle of something. Basically, you're saying that you don't have the time to put forth the effort to hold up your end. The forum members are taking their time to give you pointers. You still have to do the work, whether looking up info, or following the instructions provided.



I always be sure to show i am very thankful for all of you and the help i get from the site

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Report this Post11-29-2015 10:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Click Here to Email css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Where in Chicago are you? In case you're in need of a hand. There's a lot of us around.

I'm no expert on clutch hydraulics though.... I can bleed brakes but I've never touched a Fiero with a clutch LOL.

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Report this Post11-29-2015 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The fact that it won't go into gear when it's shut off sounds like it's not a problem with the cyls. Sounds more like something in the tranny or cables is locking up when it gets hot.
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Report this Post11-29-2015 10:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by css9450:

Where in Chicago are you? In case you're in need of a hand. There's a lot of us around.


Im in frankfort, half an hour or so south of the city

 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

The fact that it won't go into gear when it's shut off sounds like it's not a problem with the cyls. Sounds more like something in the tranny or cables is locking up when it gets hot.


It only wont go into gear when its first shut off. And if this is true, how do i check it or diagnose?

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Report this Post11-29-2015 10:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JfrostSend a Private Message to JfrostEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

The fact that it won't go into gear when it's shut off sounds like it's not a problem with the cyls. Sounds more like something in the tranny or cables is locking up when it gets hot.


I second this. Sounds like it could be something with the cables expanding once they warm up. I still have the extra slave cylinder you can borrow to see if that corrects the issue or not.
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Jfrost
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Report this Post11-29-2015 11:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JfrostSend a Private Message to JfrostEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Additionally, I'd suggest looking up the cable adjustment process for the 5spd. I had all sorts of issues getting the car into gear once I completed the 3.8 swap and it all came down to getting the cables adjusted just right. The cables on my 4spd are very finicky and I can only imagine the same for the 5spd.

This is the easiest, and cheapest, way to hopefully correct the issue you're having. Give this a shot and let us know what happens.
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Report this Post11-29-2015 11:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JfrostSend a Private Message to JfrostEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Jfrost

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Edit: double post

[This message has been edited by Jfrost (edited 11-29-2015).]

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Gall757
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Report this Post11-29-2015 12:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jfrost:

Additionally, I'd suggest looking up the cable adjustment process for the 5spd. I had all sorts of issues getting the car into gear once I completed the 3.8 swap and it all came down to getting the cables adjusted just right. The cables on my 4spd are very finicky and I can only imagine the same for the 5spd.

This is the easiest, and cheapest, way to hopefully correct the issue you're having. Give this a shot and let us know what happens.


Looks as though Frankfort and Naperville are about 10 miles apart. Maybe you could get together and diagnose this thing before Patrick puts his fist through his computer.
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painandgain99
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quote
Originally posted by Gall757:


Looks as though Frankfort and Naperville are about 10 miles apart. Maybe you could get together and diagnose this thing before Patrick puts his fist through his computer.


HAHAHAHA

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Report this Post11-29-2015 01:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Im going to try adjusting the cables, then have a family friend mechanic take a look at it. Like i said, i dont know much about the mechanics of a transmission, but if transmission cables heat up and swell and that can cause problems such as not being able to shift, id assume thats it since this problem does not exist whatsoever until after its been driving awhile and its hot. If thats the problem ill orders rodneys shift and select cables first ( i think those are the right ones) then after that ill get the master and slaves. If anyone has any other ideas id really appreciate the input.

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Raydar
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Report this Post11-29-2015 02:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A couple of quick questions and an observation...

Does the "won't go into gear" situation completely resolve itself once everything cools off, without having to bleed the clutch?

If that's the case, I'm betting that the fluid may be boiling in the slave cylinder. I've seen it happen on more than one occasion.
It looks like the end of the slave cylinder is quite near to the exhaust downpipe. You might try finding a small sheet of aluminum (usually available at a hardware store, for not a lot of money) and fastening it between the exhaust pipe and the slave, in order to block the exhaust heat, a bit.

If you immediately get bubbles when you bleed the clutch, then air is likely getting in through the slave.

The only times I have ever heard of cables being an issue is when the sheath split, and the inner cable poked through (or the inner cable just folded up, between the sheath and the shift lever) - or when the Getrag select cable got water in it and froze. The second issue resolved itself with heat, however, when the cable thawed.
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Report this Post11-29-2015 02:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

A couple of quick questions and an observation...

Does the "won't go into gear" situation completely resolve itself once everything cools off, without having to bleed the clutch?

If that's the case, I'm betting that the fluid may be boiling in the slave cylinder. I've seen it happen on more than one occasion.
It looks like the end of the slave cylinder is quite near to the exhaust downpipe. You might try finding a small sheet of aluminum (usually available at a hardware store, for not a lot of money) and fastening it between the exhaust pipe and the slave, in order to block the exhaust heat, a bit.

If you immediately get bubbles when you bleed the clutch, then air is likely getting in through the slave.

The only times I have ever heard of cables being an issue is when the sheath split, and the inner cable poked through (or the inner cable just folded up, between the sheath and the shift lever) - or when the Getrag select cable got water in it and froze. The second issue resolved itself with heat, however, when the cable thawed.


I would have suspected that except he said it would not shift with the engine shut off.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post11-29-2015 02:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

A couple of quick questions and an observation...

Does the "won't go into gear" situation completely resolve itself once everything cools off, without having to bleed the clutch?

If that's the case, I'm betting that the fluid may be boiling in the slave cylinder. I've seen it happen on more than one occasion.
It looks like the end of the slave cylinder is quite near to the exhaust downpipe. You might try finding a small sheet of aluminum (usually available at a hardware store, for not a lot of money) and fastening it between the exhaust pipe and the slave, in order to block the exhaust heat, a bit.

If you immediately get bubbles when you bleed the clutch, then air is likely getting in through the slave.

The only times I have ever heard of cables being an issue is when the sheath split, and the inner cable poked through (or the inner cable just folded up, between the sheath and the shift lever) - or when the Getrag select cable got water in it and froze. The second issue resolved itself with heat, however, when the cable thawed.


When the car first is shut off, it wont go into gear. But after its cooled off, it will again just fine. The fluid we bled was black as coal.. does that mean its getting burnt?
We bled it all out and got new fluid in. We're gettingan inch atleast on theslave now

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David Hambleton
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Report this Post11-29-2015 04:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonClick Here to Email David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Maybe the clutch shaft is binding in the hole when everything gets warmed up...

That happened to my '84 SE in Aug1997 at 210,200 km; the clutch quit "clutching'. It turned out to be the shaft binding in the hole going through to the clutch fork. The transmission was pulled, and the shaft and throw-out bearing were freed up.

Still working today at 370,660 km. I keep wondering when that clutch is going to give up!
Still using the original master & slave cylinders, but I've been shifting into neutral and letting the clutch out for years. Otherwise it sometimes will engage after a while. If I ever replace the clutch, I'll look after the hydraulic issue too.

[This message has been edited by David Hambleton (edited 11-29-2015).]

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Report this Post11-29-2015 06:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:


When the car first is shut off, it wont go into gear. But after its cooled off, it will again just fine. The fluid we bled was black as coal.. does that mean its getting burnt?
We bled it all out and got new fluid in. We're gettingan inch atleast on theslave now



The fluid was probably black because it was contaminated. Whether with water or rust. If you flushed it all out until it runs out clear, it shouldn't turn black again for... a while.

If you are getting an inch of travel at the slave, with the engine hot, and it still won't go into gear, then it's not likely the hydraulics.
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