A while back I made some LED tail lights for my Fiero. I posted some pictures in a thread and they seemed to be well received. I thought they turned out pretty well too and I was going to start selling them if people wanted.
Then I had a few requests from members to make a sequential set up for the LED tail lights. I ended up delaying the release of the lights, and taking on this new challenge. I also wanted to make the whole package more professional looking so I designed some boards and had them made. I recently received the boards for the sequential controller and soldered them up. They work great! I also have some custom boards I designed coming for the LED panels too.
Take a look:
Here's a video with an explanation/demonstration:
This board is for the notchback lights (brake/turn combined into one LED panel)
I also have boards designed for the GT lights and they're coming soon!
The whole process takes a while, but I'm happy with how everything is turning out so far and how these lights have evolved.
It has been awhile since I have worked with them. You could use a National LM3914/5/6, it would not have to be programmed. You could use a capacitor build up circuit for the sequential look. Even with an individual dot movement to the outside. On the brake function, it would pass the first senquential movement, then it would then be on steady. You would use a build up circuit to time between the flasher pulses that you would normally tie into the voltage sensing input of the LM3914. These were used for VU meters. The build up circuit would increase sense voltage as time goes by, when the flasher switches then it would repeat. But can be made to do many different functions. Run up to 10 leds with one chip or cascade up to 19. Damn it know you have me thinking again. Might have to get some blank boards and ferric chloride. There is a vendor on Epay that has boards cheap, but they are limited to mostly 4"x 6". http://www.ebay.com/itm/160...id=p3984.m1423.l2649 For larger trace boards. Use a "Cricut" cutter to make etch resist out of blank bumper stickers. I had been using one that I modified to cut the vinyl right on the boards. I have even put boards through an inkjet printer before and dusted toner on them. (using a CD tray) Let dry, blow off the excess toner, put into a toaster oven. As soon as the toner starts to turn shiny, remove from the oven. Let cool and it is ready for etching. Very fine stamping powder also works. Could never get a Laser printer transfer method to work well, even with a HP mp6. But I was also trying to make resist for 2oz. copper. Needed the resist to be rather thick. Making boards that had traces thick and wide enough for 10 amps. Couldn't afford the photo sensitive transfers for stuff that might not work(prototyping) How do I upload a PDF file to the post?
[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 11-02-2013).]
cmechmann, there are numerous ways you can build sequencing circuits. I happened to use this method because it kept the component count low (which helps when making the boards in larger quantities... I solder each board myself). It also gives me the flexibility to change the sequencing delay and pattern with a few mouse clicks and I don't have to remove any components from the board. Just plug it in and go.
I first looked into etching the boards myself, but it can be quite time consuming. Plus, making double layered boards can be quite challenging. I figured I would have them manufactured by a board shop that is well equipped for the job and can make each board consistently perfect. Saves me a lot of time too. For prototype boards, etching your own is a great option though, especially to make sure your board design works.
To post a pdf I think you'd have to upload it to a file sharing service and post a link on here?
Just some ideas. If I used this I would mount leds on pcbs that would fit into/onto the stock reflector areas. That way they could be returned to stock if need be. Also would not require drilling out the colored panels for the leds. That way your board could be piggy backed to one of them. What are the dimensions of the board? It would make it easier to shoehorn them in without the terminal blocks. If there are blank male bulb connectors, they could be made to use the stock sockets. However the time and money are not things I have right now to start a pcb project.
Just some ideas. If I used this I would mount leds on pcbs that would fit into/onto the stock reflector areas. That way they could be returned to stock if need be. Also would not require drilling out the colored panels for the leds. That way your board could be piggy backed to one of them. What are the dimensions of the board? It would make it easier to shoehorn them in without the terminal blocks. If there are blank male bulb connectors, they could be made to use the stock sockets. However the time and money are not things I have right now to start a pcb project.
I have LED PCB boards designed and I'm having them quoted right now. I also have a CNC machine that I'm going to cut new lenses from. Everything will be plug and play (including blank bulb connectors) so you can absolutely return to stock if you ever wanted. Drilling holes for each individual LED in the stock lenses was never an option. Much too time consuming, and the location of each hole would vary so much that the end product probably wouldn't look up to par.
The board is much smaller than it looks, only 2 inches tall, so even with the side terminals its very easy to fit inside the tail light housing. The next revision of the board will use idc type connectors instead of the side terminals, but it's not really a big deal. It will all fit
The only stipulation (if you'd like to call it that) with these kits is that you will have to solder your own LEDs. I will do all of the circuit boards (controllers) for you, but I will supply you with the LEDs and the LED panels and you have to solder those. If you have no experience with it, it's really not difficult, or you can buy your buddy a few beers who knows how and he can do it for you. It will keep the cost down, plus I just don't have time to solder hundreds of LEDs.
I can solder all day long! surface- through hole... Car is up on jackstandsfor bodywork, Winter is coming, so.... Send me a kit I will guine pig it for ya
Those look nice! Do you know what kind of LEDs they used? Maybe it's just the video but they don't seem that bright considering the video was shot at night?
My pattern of LEDs doesn't really follow the stock set up light yours does, so the number of LED's will differ. I've split up the parking lights vs. the brake turn signal on the notchback. I'll have a prototype done relatively soon and you can decide
not sure the type but they were really small. My taillights are very tinted aswell. Main reason i would consider using yours is I'd like them to be a little brighter
Considering that these have to be visible in the daylight with the sun shining on them I would not use anything else other than 5 mm piranhas super brights
at 85% brightness
at 20% brightness
[This message has been edited by Danyel (edited 11-10-2013).]
Very interested! When do we get to see what the GT lights look like?
I will be trying to complete a prototype set this week before I go on vacation for a short period. They will look almost identical to the ones in the link that 'fierocarparts' just posted. However, I'm trying to take the quality of the tail lights to the next level. The insert panels for the LEDs will be professional PCBs (instead of project board), and the controller boards for the sequential turn signal will be similar to what I posted above for the notchback (again, professional PCB). The turn signal will have the sequential feature and all LEDs will be very bright
I always thought the GT tail lights were very nice looking from the factory, so the regular lenses will be reused. It will look "stock" with the lights off, and when they come on, you will be able to tell they are modern LEDs.
I've been extremely busy, however, I managed to finish the brake/turn section of the notch back panel. The LEDs used for this prototype are generic piranha superflux. They are not the brand name, higher quality LEDs that I will be using for all of the kits. I just didn't want to waste them on a prototype if I didn't have too. Turns out these ones look extremely bright even behind very hazy tail light lenses that I use for prototyping.
Take a look:
I am using secondary optics to enhance the appearance and size of the LEDs. It definitely makes the lights appear larger.
The controller board fits nice and snug behind the panel and out of sight:
You can see a lot of wires that I had to run for the prototype. The actual production versions will have a PCB panel for the brake/turn lights and a ribbon cable will be run to the terminals for clean wiring.
Since I didn't get the parking lights done on this set, you can see what they look like on the last set I made. They will remain identical:
I'll post a short video tomorrow showing the sequential function in the tail light housing.
Thanks for checking back!
[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 11-14-2013).]
If you see any "skips" in the LED sequence, it's because I'm connecting and disconnecting the circuit by hand. When your flasher does it, obviously it will work flawlessly.
Cant wait for the gt version will look perfect with everything else I am doing. Great job and remember to sign me up. Also let me know pricing when you can. Nice job!
Alrighty then! Those look sick man! I also am interested in a set. Just have a question. When the blinker is on, will the outlined portion stay on or turn off? Hope that makes sense!
Right now it's looking at $225 give or take for a kit (both notch and GT)
quote
Originally posted by NEVERDONE:
Alrighty then! Those look sick man! I also am interested in a set. Just have a question. When the blinker is on, will the outlined portion stay on or turn off? Hope that makes sense!
It can actually be wired either way I would include instructions on how to do both methods.
Right now it's looking at $225 give or take for a kit (both notch and GT)
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Not a bad price How much plug and play, use your own housings? What I always disliked about some LEDS is the blueish white LED light ended up making the tail light look pink instead of red. I had thought red LEDs would be best. In the vid they look red but hard to tell for sure. Are your LEDs red and removed the "eggcrate" stuff? If so what can you see when they are turned off, in the daylight? Thanks
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 11-15-2013).]
The lights are complete plug and play in the sense that you can always return to stock bulbs if you wish. Nothing here is permanent.
The tail lights are a kit though so some assembly is required. The notchback lights will be slightly more work because the parking light section can not be made with a pcb. It's too large and the cost to do it would be unreasonable. Some wire cutting and soldering is necessary with the notchback panel that I make. The brake/turn section will be a pcb and you just have to solder the LEDs to it.
The gt lights will be two pcbs per tail light. All you do there is solder the LEDs to the boards and plug in your wires.
The LEDs are all red/orange for brake and parking lights. Pure red is actually not suggested because they don't appear as bright to the human eye as red/orange does. They are not white LEDs so you don't get the pink look. The turn signal on the gt lights will use amber LEDs.
Thanks guys!
Edit: forgot to add that on the notchback lights the stock lenses are replaced with my custom lenses. When no lights are on you can't see much. Sort of looks like a tinted tail light.
[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 11-15-2013).]
