I've finalized the notchback design and I've placed my order for the LED boards (notchback) to be manufactured. In the mean time I've bulk ordered a bunch of other components and I'll be prepping the circuit boards so they're ready when I start taking orders. I'm also tweaking some things with the GT design so it's not quite ready yet
Thanks for checking back!
[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 12-23-2013).]
I've finalized the notchback design and I've placed my order for the LED boards (notchback) to be manufactured. In the mean time I've bulk ordered a bunch of other components and I'll be prepping the circuit boards so they're ready when I start taking orders. I'm also tweaking some things with the GT design so it's not quite ready yet
Made some progress on the GT lights as well. I made some prototype boards and just populated a few columns with LEDs to make sure the LEDs look consistent across the panel. Remember, the final product will obviously have a full panel of LEDs not just these segments. Also keep in mind, these are cheap LEDs that I am prototyping with (at an arbitrary brightness). The actual product will have nothing but the best super bright LEDs and the parking/brake brightness will be calibrated.
The turn signal panel will be similar but will feature the sequential function for flashing. I used RED LEDs in the following picture, but the final product will use AMBER LEDs so you'll have to use your imagination at the moment.
Just need to finalize a few small details and I will put these boards on order in bulk.
The LED boards for the notchback came in and they look great! I was able to solder one today and hook it up to the sequential controller and they work very nicely.
These are the LEDs on the board:
Then with the reflectors pressed into place:
This is what it looks like on the front side connected to the main panel:
This is the back side:
I've also been using my spare time to solder up the controller boards so they'll be ready when I put the kits up for sale:
I should be ordering the GT LED boards soon as well.
My education is in automotive engineering, but I currently practice mechanical engineering designing industrial equipment (plastic injection molding machines).
I enjoy learning new things so I decided to learn more about electronics (PCB design) and this is what I've come up with so far.
As for weatherizing, these units will sit inside the stock tail light housings which are water tight so long as the seal is sufficient. In the worst case scenario where some water gets inside the tail light housing, it will obviously run to the bottom of the housing and the electronic boards are suspended off the bottom. The person installing the lights should be diligent to ensure a good seal between the tail light housings and if necessary, add more of that black glue that the factory used. I think this stuff here would work well:
Nice to see the work you have been doing. I actually took a completely different route for the L.E.D.s. It about time the Fieros get to this level of technology. The old bulbs are out, and the new L.E.D.s are in . Again great job!
Lighting in the video looks kind of washed out but I'm uploading it now anyways.
Here are a few more pictures in the mean time:
Edit to add video:
Keep in mind that it looks much more "crisp" in person. The video is over exposed and washed out. In real life the LEDs don't bleed into one another like in the video. I'll have to see if I can capture it better with another camera.
In the second part of the video, you'll notice the parking light cancellation feature. Basically, when the brake lights or turn signal are activated, the parking lights will be automatically deactivated for the duration of the brake/turn signal. They will automatically resume once the brake/turn signal is off. This feature will be included on all of the controller boards but you do not have to use it. You can bypass it if you like the traditional look of the parking lights remaining on.
Thanks for looking!
[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 01-06-2014).]
First off I'd like to say nice job, very well thought out and executed. Secondly, I'd like to ask if the sequencing will be variable? In my opinion ( I'm not criticizing at all) the sequence out is too fast for my tastes, I'd like it to be a little slower. I've had sequencing tail lights on both of my Fieros and I like them a little more "lazy". Is this a possiblility? Please keep up the great work, I'll be happy to buy one of each when you get it all worked out. -Jason
First off I'd like to say nice job, very well thought out and executed. Secondly, I'd like to ask if the sequencing will be variable? In my opinion ( I'm not criticizing at all) the sequence out is too fast for my tastes, I'd like it to be a little slower. I've had sequencing tail lights on both of my Fieros and I like them a little more "lazy". Is this a possiblility? Please keep up the great work, I'll be happy to buy one of each when you get it all worked out. -Jason
The length of time that a sequencing cycle takes is governed by the flashing unit under your dash board. It determines how long voltage is applied to the controller board. Each of my cycles has to fit into one "flash" done by the flashing unit.
With this kit, you will need to replace your flasher unit with one that is compatible with LEDs. I have a part number here that can be found on ebay or other places on the internet. For those who buy my tail light kit, I would highly recommend using this same flasher that I use. This way the cycle time is consistent.
If you want slower sequencing, you can try and find a LED flasher that works slower and then adjust the speed on my controller board to match. My controller boards can be adjusted at any time, however, you need to hook them up to your computer via a serial connection. It's somewhat involved, but if it bothers you that much and you are determined to change it, it can be done! I would of course help you along the way and show you how.
There are even DIY tutorials out there on how to "hack" your electronic flasher and put in a variable (pot) resistor to set the flash rate to whatever you like!
The length of time that a sequencing cycle takes is governed by the flashing unit under your dash board. It determines how long voltage is applied to the controller board. Each of my cycles has to fit into one "flash" done by the flashing unit.
With this kit, you will need to replace your flasher unit with one that is compatible with LEDs. I have a part number here that can be found on ebay or other places on the internet. For those who buy my tail light kit, I would highly recommend using this same flasher that I use. This way the cycle time is consistent.
If you want slower sequencing, you can try and find a LED flasher that works slower and then adjust the speed on my controller board to match. My controller boards can be adjusted at any time, however, you need to hook them up to your computer via a serial connection. It's somewhat involved, but if it bothers you that much and you are determined to change it, it can be done! I would of course help you along the way and show you how.
There are even DIY tutorials out there on how to "hack" your electronic flasher and put in a variable (pot) resistor to set the flash rate to whatever you like!
Nothing is impossible, it just depends on how determined you are to make it work!
I've just tried to design the kit to be as plug and play as possible.
The flasher unit I think is sold on Top Line Group's website if I'm not mistaken because I have the LED bulbs that they sold on there and the no load LED flasher module. Let me know if this is the correct one that would work with your kit.
Originally posted by Rare87GT: The flasher unit I think is sold on Top Line Group's website if I'm not mistaken because I have the LED bulbs that they sold on there and the no load LED flasher module. Let me know if this is the correct one that would work with your kit.
The part number is EF32RL so if you search that in google you'll find a bunch of places that carry them.
It is a 2 prong flashing unit so it plugs directly in place of the stock one. However, you'll notice it has a black ground cable coming out of the top. You will need to ground this under your dash somewhere.
That could potentially work, but again, unless its the exact same one I can't guarantee that the flash rate will work out. It says on that website that the flash rate is 90 times / min +- 10%
As I mentioned before though, the sequencing speed on my boards can be adjusted.
The datasheet I have for the flasher I used says the flash rate is 60 to 120 times per minute depending on temperature. I think right now mine is on the fast end of that.
As was mentioned before..AWESOME job! Also as was stated by Jason, a slower turn signal rate might look better but its not a deal breaker. Have you tried taking the parking lights all the way around to housing like on the new Chargers? How hard would it be to do like a option to the kit?
As was mentioned before..AWESOME job! Also as was stated by Jason, a slower turn signal rate might look better but its not a deal breaker. Have you tried taking the parking lights all the way around to housing like on the new Chargers? How hard would it be to do like a option to the kit?
I haven't tried it but it wouldn't be that difficult to do. The only two drawbacks to this I can think of are that it would use more LEDs (more expensive / more wiring) and that the tail lights are made in two pieces. This means that if there is any misalignment of the two panels, it will be very obvious.
The part number is EF32RL so if you search that in google you'll find a bunch of places that carry them.
It is a 2 prong flashing unit so it plugs directly in place of the stock one. However, you'll notice it has a black ground cable coming out of the top. You will need to ground this under your dash somewhere.
Sounds good. I ordered the one you have on here from eBay so I will have it already when I get the taillights. Going to order that stuff also you posted to seal the taillights back up when I get the LED board in.
Sounds good. I ordered the one you have on here from eBay so I will have it already when I get the taillights. Going to order that stuff also you posted to seal the taillights back up when I get the LED board in.
Thanks man!!
-Amir
No problem!
That stuff I posted may not be necessary, but if you're worried about it, it should work well.
I've opened and closed my tail lights many times and have never had a problem with the stock glue not resealing. I was actually surprised!
Sounds good. I ordered the one you have on here from eBay so I will have it already when I get the taillights. Going to order that stuff also you posted to seal the taillights back up when I get the LED board in.
Thanks man!!
-Amir
Be careful with that stuff when sealing your tail lights, you can stretch it pretty thin ( you can take a 1 inch piece and stretch it 4-5 inches) and it be effective in sealing. When I did a projector retrofit on my 2012 Focus, I didn't stretch it out and it was too much when I pressed them back together and I had alot of it stick out of the cracks. It stays very sticky and has a very strong seal. You will need to use a heat gun to set it and a heat gun to separate it after its been together a while.
I understand what you are saying about the lights not meeting up. But I think it can be done. If not all the way maybe just the top row a little longer then the lower. Kinda like the Kia Optima tailights. Maybe a photoshop is in order. Do you know whos i can contact on here thats good at it? I'm not on here like i used to be.
Be careful with that stuff when sealing your tail lights, you can stretch it pretty thin ( you can take a 1 inch piece and stretch it 4-5 inches) and it be effective in sealing. When I did a projector retrofit on my 2012 Focus, I didn't stretch it out and it was too much when I pressed them back together and I had alot of it stick out of the cracks. It stays very sticky and has a very strong seal. You will need to use a heat gun to set it and a heat gun to separate it after its been together a while.
Just an FYI.
Good info! Thanks!
quote
Originally posted by 86caddyslim:
Forgive me if I missed something but are they available to order yet?? If so please let me know how, if not please let me know when (best guess).
Almost ready for sale, just a little while longer
quote
Originally posted by lildevil:
I understand what you are saying about the lights not meeting up. But I think it can be done. If not all the way maybe just the top row a little longer then the lower. Kinda like the Kia Optima tailights. Maybe a photoshop is in order. Do you know whos i can contact on here thats good at it? I'm not on here like i used to be.
Like this?
I'm not sure if I'm a big fan of the look to be honest. Kind of reminds me of something from Star Trek? haha
Let me know what you guys think. This is the current design so you can see them side by side:
I'm not sure if I'm a big fan of the look to be honest. Kind of reminds me of something from Star Trek? haha
Let me know what you guys think. This is the current design so you can see them side by side:
I definitely like the original design now the 2nd picture because it's how the current tailights look in a sense and look more like a Fiero. Not saying the first ones aren't cool, but just seems a little much especially since they are a 2 piece taillight setup now on our cars. The Chargers have a bar that goes all the way across to make it easier to line them up and keep the lines of the body.
[This message has been edited by Rare87GT (edited 01-08-2014).]
