The engine HAS returned!!!! Special Thanks for the engine goes out to one of my best friends Pat B. and Bob S. at Triad Engine Exchange. Words can't even describe my thanks to Pat for his help on the engine.
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06:23 PM
Dec 25th, 2010
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
I forgot to mention some of the parts I ordered.I ordered the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder from Rodney,I also ordered Rodneys vacuem line kit, the whole Polyurethane bushing kit,stainless steel brake lines,new shocks and struts,new engine/trans mounts,and some other parts.This evening I'll probably run up to Advance and order a oil pressure sending unit and go to Autozone and order a release bearing for the clutch i'm getting these two were the cheapest I could find on these two parts.
[This message has been edited by NCTyphoonKid (edited 12-27-2010).]
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04:02 PM
Hulki U. My-BFF Member
Posts: 5949 From: Back home in East Berlin, PA Registered: Apr 2008
Got some good news on the exhaust I've decided to reuse my original system which came on the car when it rolled off the dealer lot.I've decided to cut out the bent section and weld in another section which is what the red line is showing.
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04:31 PM
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Got some stuff in the mail Recieved my poly bushing kit,Got my vacuem lines, slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder from Rodney,I also recieved my parts from O'reilly (Thanks Galen) which consisted of my new shocks,struts, along with some other stuff.I also worked on assembling the motor today and didn't have time to get any pics of the engine.
[This message has been edited by NCTyphoonKid (edited 12-29-2010).]
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05:31 PM
Dec 30th, 2010
L67 Member
Posts: 1792 From: Winston Salem, NC Registered: Jun 2010
Today has been a long and tiring day but I got my front suspension all put back in and moved my car off the carport for the first time in a few months.Sorry about the quality of the pics it was almost dark when I took them.
[This message has been edited by NCTyphoonKid (edited 12-30-2010).]
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05:58 PM
Dec 31st, 2010
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Washed my car this morning.Then later in the day I pulled the cradle I may try and get the engine and trans mounted to the cradle tomorrow after I get the clutch and flywheel. Before pics: After Pics: Engine Pic:
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08:13 PM
Jan 1st, 2011
L67 Member
Posts: 1792 From: Winston Salem, NC Registered: Jun 2010
Oh yes, you always surface a flywheel when installing a new clutch, always. The only time you don't have to is when you buy a brand new flywheel - provided it doesn't get scratched before installation. The surface has to be fresh so the new disk will wear correctly. I didn't mention it would need to be surfaced because it's a very common practice and I presumed you already knew, given your experience with installing your new 4 speed. It only cost $15-$25 to have done at your local machine shop.
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09:38 AM
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Oh yes, you always surface a flywheel when installing a new clutch, always. The only time you don't have to is when you buy a brand new flywheel - provided it doesn't get scratched before installation. The surface has to be fresh so the new disk will wear correctly. I didn't mention it would need to be surfaced because it's a very common practice and I presumed you already knew, given your experience with installing your new 4 speed. It only cost $15-$25 to have done at your local machine shop.
Oh ok no no one ever told me that it needed to be surfaced.Either way I'll see you between 11am and 12pm to pick them up. Korey
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09:55 AM
L67 Member
Posts: 1792 From: Winston Salem, NC Registered: Jun 2010
Well she's showing signs of life once again: I'm also having some fitment issues with the stainless steel vacuem lines I got from rodney so this has prevented me from putting the upper intake on:
[This message has been edited by NCTyphoonKid (edited 01-03-2011).]
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09:54 PM
Jan 5th, 2011
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Got my vacuum line issues worked out and got the plenum back on and possibly I'm hoping to have it running again this weekend. Also took a few more pics of the car
[This message has been edited by NCTyphoonKid (edited 01-05-2011).]
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07:43 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jan 9th, 2011
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Went to put water in it to check for leaks damn base at the thermostat housing was leaking so I went and got some gasket maker for thermostat housings and water pumps and put it on and got the housing back on. I don't know if the gasket maker will hold but we'll see. Korey
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03:02 PM
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
I'm thinking about getting rid of the throttle body cooling tubes. Does anybody have a tutorial on how to do it and do I really need them? I think it would look nicer with out them but thats just me and it would be alot easier to get the distributor in.
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05:16 PM
Jan 10th, 2011
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Got my brakes put on today. I got the calipers put on, brade pads put on, and stainless steel lines put on in the cold. I still need to go to the junkyard and get some horns for the Fiero, I need to fix my headlight relay the headlight goes up but won't come down I think the relay has just got bad and I need to get a temp gauge for the dash mines never worked.. I'll probably test to see if it has any water leaks tomorrow and if that damn thermostat housing is leaking its bye bye throttle body coolant tubes.
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09:32 PM
Jan 16th, 2011
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Got the clutch bled today. I also discovered its leaking coolant I'm not sure if its the thermostat housing or a hose or both. I'm planning on possibly trying to get the Fiero running and driving tomorrow.
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03:42 PM
Hulki U. My-BFF Member
Posts: 5949 From: Back home in East Berlin, PA Registered: Apr 2008
I'm thinking about getting rid of the throttle body cooling tubes. Does anybody have a tutorial on how to do it and do I really need them? I think it would look nicer with out them but thats just me and it would be alot easier to get the distributor in.
Korey, there has been much discussion on this topic, and the general consensus is that you can remove them. They were designed to keep the TB from icing up and causing a stuck throttle situation, but you'd have better luck finding a leprechaun riding a unicorn than this happening. There really is no right or wrong way to block them off, I'm probably just going to run a hose from the one port of the thermo housing to the other port.
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07:16 PM
Hulki U. My-BFF Member
Posts: 5949 From: Back home in East Berlin, PA Registered: Apr 2008
Korey, there has been much discussion on this topic, and the general consensus is that you can remove them. They were designed to keep the TB from icing up and causing a stuck throttle situation, but you'd have better luck finding a leprechaun riding a unicorn than this happening. There really is no right or wrong way to block them off, I'm probably just going to run a hose from the one port of the thermo housing to the other port.
Edit: You work fast! And that car is looking great. You'll be cruising in no time.
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07:18 PM
Jan 17th, 2011
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
The plan today is to try and get the Fiero running and hopefully driving. It's hooked up to a battery charger right now so hopefully this afternoon we'll get it fired up for the first time. I'm planning on making a first startup vid also.
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10:44 AM
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Got alternators swapped out and walked back there to see water spewing everywhere. The water pump has a crack in it so hopefully Thursday that'll be straightened out. Korey
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04:47 PM
PFF
System Bot
L67 Member
Posts: 1792 From: Winston Salem, NC Registered: Jun 2010
Awwww, c'mon Korey. You know 2.8 water pumps are fun to replace! Actually, they're not too God awful bad.
Nah there not too bad I've done enough of them so there pretty easy to do but I've had alot of issues with mine on the old engine and dont want to deal with this on the new engine
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09:38 PM
L67 Member
Posts: 1792 From: Winston Salem, NC Registered: Jun 2010
Like I said before, the pump bolts were obviously over torqued or the face was damaged during handling of the engine. Have it replaced by the book and you should have smooth sailing.
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10:32 PM
Jan 19th, 2011
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Like I said before, the pump bolts were obviously over torqued or the face was damaged during handling of the engine. Have it replaced by the book and you should have smooth sailing.
Will dohopefully I'll have more updates tomorrow
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05:14 PM
Jan 21st, 2011
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
Got my clutch pedal adjusted today (on the RD master cylinders it has adjustable banjo so I had to adjust. I think that was my problem with the clutch not releasing right. Later on this evening I'm going to get under it and put the swaybar on along with the steering dampner and pull the upper intake off. I'm also looking into getting a rear swaybar for the car when I get some extra cash. They say putting a rear swaybar on the 84-87 Fiero really helps out with handling in the rear.
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05:42 PM
Jan 22nd, 2011
NCTyphoonKid Member
Posts: 1278 From: Trinity, NC USA Registered: Jun 2008
I was going to test my clutch and see if I got the releasing issue fixed (believe air was in the line) but the car had other ideas. It turned over and started for a sec or two and shut off and turned over again but wouldn't start and then it wouldn't turn over anymore. The gauges come on fuel pump turns on but it won't turn over or attempt to start. What ideas do ya'll think could be causing it not to turn over or attempt to start? The starter, wire, fuse, etc? If someone has an idea please feel free to post it up. Korey
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