quote Originally posted by ccfiero350: It would be kinda cool to run with no body skins on under a "naked" or "skeletal" theme. There's not many cars that could do that. Plus as a theme it may get you picked over some others.

You could even run the car with the theme of being a bunch of nerdy nobodys. Get it, No Body?

groan.

If you need any help or crew drop me a line.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

All I can say is this looks like a great challenge. You guys will end up being suprized at how much fun the car is to drive. It's really a great little car when setup right.


All I can say is use Shell Rotela T oil and some synthetic. Ditto on the Coil and module replace with Delco parts ONLY.

Do the extra ground strap mod from the EGR solenoid to Battery tray.

Good luck and let us know how you do.

Will definitely keep this updated regularly.

We're still having problems with it running very rich and idling poorly. We've discovered the both ends of the EGR have been sealed off! Lots of interesting vacuum lines running around also. We're having clutch issues also even though the slave cylinder has been replaced and is functioning fine. All of these problems are making us want to yank the engine/transmission and start fixing all the issues from the ground up.

Replace the clutch, pilot/throwout bearings, figure out what vacuum lines are missing/damaged, make sure all the sensors are functioning, etc...

I think we were just wanting to have a little fun in it before we tore it all apart...

Running!

We plugged some leaking vacuum lines and replaced sensors, now it actually idles. However, the clutch is still a problem. It seems like the clutch itself is okay, but one of the bearings is off. Any attempt at getting into reverse is met with grinding gears, and getting into first is no picnic. Hopefully we can get it going well enough to enjoy it for a few weekends before dropping the motor/trans out for clutch work and various items (like welding up the gnarly crack in the header).

May want to try rebuilding the slave with the MR2 cylinder with 2 seals. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/096740.html

quote Originally posted by Lemons2010: Running! We plugged some leaking vacuum lines and replaced sensors, now it actually idles. However, the clutch is still a problem. It seems like the clutch itself is okay, but one of the bearings is off. Any attempt at getting into reverse is met with grinding gears, and getting into first is no picnic. Hopefully we can get it going well enough to enjoy it for a few weekends before dropping the motor/trans out for clutch work and various items (like welding up the gnarly crack in the header).

Its nothing to do with a bearing. Either the hydraulics aren't sufficiently bled, OR the clutch pedal assy is bent. Also helps to have the loop of the clutch master pushrod pointing "up" as its attached to the pedal.

AFTER you run it this year, with the 2.8, put a 3800 II ( N/A ) with OD auto in it. Run it with the engine lid closed for the whole next year! The N/A 3800 II has 9.5 to one compresion, better MPG ( you don't have to floor it ) It's a tuff drive line, hard to kill. Keep your eye out for a beat up 3800 powered big car, buy a shift kit ( $30 ) and have the ecm retuned to run with out the pass key ( $100 ). Go racing. All the hard work will be done this year. More power is always more fun.

quote Originally posted by KurtAKX: Its nothing to do with a bearing. Either the hydraulics aren't sufficiently bled, OR the clutch pedal assy is bent. Also helps to have the loop of the clutch master pushrod pointing "up" as its attached to the pedal.

Kurt, one of our team members has had a pilot bearing get a little messed up and transfer a little power...

Starting to look like it has all the typical Fiero problems.

-Replace the clutch master cylinder, and slave cylinder, check condition of under car line and replace if necessary. Might rebuild slave with MR2 parts. Check if clutch pedal is bent. Replacement clutch pedal from Fiero Store

http://www.v8archie.com/arch6.htm

Fiero Store Part # 66423, $39.95

-Check routing of all vacuum lines, replace as necessary. Rodney sells a complete kit, but might be too nice/expensive for a lemons car at $120

www.rodneydickman.com

Here's the routing diagram, looks like a subway transit system map



-Fiero Store also sells a replacement EGR tube, expensive though, Part #67019, $99.99

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1984 Fiero SE

To help with the $500 budget, I have two good used radiators and exhaust system with a cat delete pipe and a single 2 1/2" glass pack I can donate.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

Shifter rebuild helped things but the detents are still shot and the clutch is still trouble. the loop is facing up but when you pull it off the pedal, you can get about 1/2" slack. will try bending the pedal back - has anyone had trouble with the movement/return mechanism in the dash?

We will have a for sale thread up soon, including working headlight assemblies, cruise control, glass, basically anything not involved in moving the car. Hopefully we can get a little room in the budget for suspension parts.

More power than 10 year old tires can handle:



note the suspension... we're going to have to figure out a way to drop and stiffen things up for very little cash.

quote Originally posted by ccfiero350: To help with the $500 budget, I have two good used radiators and exhaust system with a cat delete pipe and a single 2 1/2" glass pack I can donate.

Donated parts still have to be given a value and do not count as free.

Iceracing the fiero I found out a couple things to look out for... they have been mentioned...

Brakes, my calipers were messed. Stock is sufficient for what Im doing, but probably not for you guys...

Clutch line/ brake line rot. I installed a git r dun splice in more than one spot... Last thing you want to not have in a race is brakes.

The car is heavy... If you need to jam a cage on it, the doors only need to be skins Doors are damn heavy.

Increase sping rates for cheap? I jammed $1.49 spring lifters to eliminate coils. It sounds rugged but works a little. I was going to jam miata coilovers I got for 30 bucks in there with brute force...

Oh swap the motor... they all suck. (no offense guys )

Another thing to think about besides the car is your driving experience and how that applies to Lemons. If you have a chance, corner work for a lemons race so you can see what the corner workers are watching for. They will be the ones calling you in for a penalty which will cost you considerable time. The cars that win at Lemons are the ones that stay on the track and arent stuck in the penalty box for passing under yellow, going four off, spinning etc. Do some track days, even if it is in a different car if you havent been on the track before.

The doors are definitely heavy - 82-85lbs. So far we have taken ~400lbs out but still need to put in new windshield, replace door skins, and of course the heavy rollcage.

ccfiero350, thanks for the offer and the advice. Although free parts are arbitrarily assigned a value towards the $500, spares do not count, and we would certainly appreciate a spare radiator in case we develop a leak during the race (high speed contact is more of a risk than rust here). We are also planning to fab up a side exit exhaust and need to get a muffler (and sell the cat - one of the most valuable take-offs for us apparently). The race requires 92dB drive-by, so I'm not sure if a glasspack would work or not.

At MSR Houston the sound testing is always located on the inside of the track so if you know which direction the race will be running you can change the side of the exhaust to suit. That is if you have a sound problem. Alot of guys will have it go out the back and have a bolt on turn down that they can turn away from sound once they know the race direction.

quote Originally posted by Lemons2010: note the suspension... we're going to have to figure out a way to drop and stiffen things up for very little cash.

Cut the springs. That will both drop and stiffen. No cash, except the electricity to run the cut-off wheel.
Search for threads here about cutting springs.

If you can, run the exhaust tip straight up, it really makes a difference at the sound meter. I think it would be kind of trick to route it up through the old battery area and up past the roof line, semi truck like.

The spares are yours.

Hopefully you can get the car down to 2200-2400 lbs with the cage.

HT Motorsports has Nylon bushing for your year car that would certainly help tighten up the underpinnings.

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yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

So we pulled the cradle and started in on some issues there; there were cracks in both manifolds that we welded up (see below) and we deleted the EGR by cutting it off and welding a piece of scrap over it (it had been blocked off with a piece of sheet metal under the flange previously). We also plugged off all of the EGR-related vac lines (thanks for posting that simplified diagram RWDPLZ). While they were off we cleaned up the mess GM left inside the headers and wrapped them. Hopefully those two items will cut down on the heat seen by the coil/alternator/etc, and surely the improved flow will give us a couple of HP.

The charcoal cannister is just begging to get tossed, but I'm worried about having an open vent line from the tank; Does anyone have experience with running with an open vent?

If you use a vented gas cap you can eliminate all the vacuum lines, egr parts and charcoal canister. The vented cap will allow you to plug the removed charcoal lines. All you need are the PCV and the purple one in the above diagram for the MAP sensor. If you eliminate the fuel pressure regulator your fuel pressure will be about 49 instead of 44 psi. No reason to eliminate that.

A 8 point roll cage of 1 3/4" tubing will weigh about 150#.

A glass pack muffler on a 2.8 will be about 98 dbl.

Biggest thing you need to keep an eye on is water temp and oil temp. Add a water to oil cooler if you want it to survive.

Cut the springs, 1 coil will make a big difference. Use a cut off wheel, not a torch.

Replace the hydraulic clutch line with straight standard brake line and a flexible brake hose at the rear cradle for movement. Will cost about $15 and eliminate all the high places for air bubbles to form in the line. Maybe it was done by the previous owner. They can't tell. The OE line is contoured to the floor pattern ups and downs and is a pain to bleed.

Haven't update in a while. We've gotten good at taking the rear engine/tranny/suspension assembly out of the car. We originally took it out to do general maintenance and replace/simplify things here and there. After dropping the assembly back in, we realized that the speedometer gear was missing. We blamed it on having to many beers and multiple people working on the car. We finally came to the agreement that we had to take it all back out.

Ended up separating the engine and transmission and turning the transmission upside down to find the gear. Took under 2.5 hours to remove, disassemble, and reinstall everything.

Next up is to do the exhaust to get it drivable again.

So we took some pictures of everything that seems at all likely to sell. Please check out our gallery and make an offer on anything... I'm thinking of putting the headlights on fleabay so we can get some cash quickly. The hood emblem already sold (Thanks IIKool!) and I'm re-listing the headlights in the Mall for now.
http://dcfoley.com/gallery/..._itemId=91&g2_page=1

we even have a sexy model!

Le mons?

Is that a demolition derby type race?

It's NERF or nothing!

So how did this car turn out?

When is your first race with the car? We have run 4 Lemon races with our 86 GT this last weekend was the last race brakes have been a big problem in this last race plan to upgrade before Sept. race here in SC..