really this is getting way out of hand..So what u dont like the same things,eh we r all different and different idea's so you dont like what some one else said.fine DONT READ IT.
Just like back in canada,, T.V show comes on the air and people r crapping about they dont want thier kids watching..well dont spoil it for the other people that like..Control ur own kids before u try to rule the world....yeah it piss's me off to
Hmm that's rather a disappointing ending. I was looking forward to more progress these sort of threads are far and few especially for aging Fiero's. Everyone has bad days that reflect poorly against them in times of stress or mental break downs this one effects everyone. Lots of inspiration out the window for us.
Well GL on your project.
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02:32 PM
F-I-E-R-O Member
Posts: 8410 From: Endwell, NY Registered: Jan 2005
Ive talked to Drum a few times in personal email... He messaged me to help me with a question i had... Really awesome of him to help even though he couldn't do it THROUGH the forum!!
I offered my services to him letting him know that i will post anything on here about his progress if he wants... Hope to see him again soon too. Everyone makes mistakes.
Wasn't it Jesus who said "You may stone this woman but let the person who has never sinned throw the first stone"
(no im not a "bible thumper" just a good quote)
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05:56 PM
RCR Member
Posts: 4397 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
One of the biggest problems with this kit is lining up the rear fender line, rocker line, and the front fender line. The fiberglass for the lower door is 1/4 too thick which makes it impossible to line up body lines and the door scrapes on the sill plate. To fix this, I had to cut the entire bottom of the GFX off and shave down the mounting surfaces of the GFX to line up the body lines.
Here are a couple more showing how the parts line up. I have a lot of shaping to do to get it perfect.
While I was working on the lower parts, I ran a test fit on this 2 port intake. There will be a working one on each side of the car.Pretty good fit.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 02-17-2008).]
You know, Cliff is known to be open to letting people back on the Forum when they take the time to personally request it.
In fact at one time I was of the impression that he was too easy on some that were banned multiple times.
I'm sure that a simple EMailed request from a freshly banned member would do the job much better than 7 threads on the subject. However when a newly banned member fires off a "Nasty-Gram" to Cliff right away, that would kinda hurt the odds.
At this point, IMHO, a nice EMail to Cliff along the lines of what Michael Vick told the judge today would be the most effective method of getting a new start.
Or you could do just what Cliff suggested in the thread he closed today ......
quote
Do what all banned members do. Re-register with a different name, behave this time, and tell all your buddies how you circumvented the PFF system (and fooled me) by re-registering using a different name.
Archie
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10:08 PM
Aug 28th, 2007
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10270 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
This is a little break from the IMSA updates and kind of a helper topic for some of you. For those of you who always crack your chin spoilers and have to spend a lot of money to repair them, here is an easy solution. It seems many members love the chin spoiler but have many problems with them breaking. These things cost a lot of money and sometimes get completely destroyed. This is a cheap and maybe a free alternative. First, find a beat up, or in my case an unused GT front end. Make a cut along the lower seam ( Marked in red ) and follow that into the center until it is removed from the whole bumper piece.
Next, cut the center section out. You want to follow the curve of the front end and cut far enough back that you just cut in front of the center support.
Next, remove the reinforcing strip from the lower part of the bumper, cut it, and install it where you just cut out the center support. You will have to hammer this piece on because it has "teeth" built in and they will really grab the plastic with no need for other fasteners. This will strengthen and straighten the piece.
After this, the piece is flipped upside down and the extra plastic of the spoiler is cut off. If you are mounting this on a stock car, leave the plastic intact. It will give you more mounting areas. For the IMSA, it has to flare out more so it needs to be bent to a different curve....the plastic has to be cut off.
Here is the piece temporarily held up with paint cans so you can get an idea of what it will look like. Notice how the IMSA opening curves around into the GT piece and really looks like it should have been there from the factory.
The side pieces that curve around can be cut more level towards the front tires or can be left at an angle as you see in the pics. This is not going to be mounted right now because there are WAY more important things to do on this build.
So, what have we done? Cut a factory front end down, flipped it upside down, and created a break proof chin spoiler....kinda cool
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 02-17-2008).]
Are you having trouble with the lower door rockers hitting the fender or the rear quarter panel when opening the door? My IMSA pieces are the same length as the stock ones, but they are hitting at the front. If I move the piece back it leaves a gap at the front and overhangs at the back.
Did you glue the tops instead of using the mounting flange? Mine also drag along the bottom against the lower rockers, but I think I have that figured out.
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02:13 AM
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10270 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
Well, this was supposed to be an update about the build but I got royally screwed with this...
I needed to change the hinge pins because the door was sagging so I had to disconnect the wiring from the door and found out that the former owner or owners wired in 2 different alarm systems. They had about 8 relays and wiring everywhere. I need to get this all back to stock before the build continues.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 02-17-2008).]
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02:50 AM
PFF
System Bot
The Fieromaster Member
Posts: 4124 From: Painesville, Ohio USA Registered: Jun 2001
I am happy to see this thread progressing again. this will be one like Russ's thread, packed full of great pics and info about doing a wide body yourself. Good stuff!
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11:05 PM
Aug 29th, 2007
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10270 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
I can totally relate! The first Fiero that I bought had an aftermarket stereo complete with inop amp and a "bazooka" subwoofer behind the seat, an alarm system with remote door/hatch unlock, and remote start. None of it worked. I actually had to replace the stereo harnesss with a harness from a parts car because the one in the car was so hacked up, and beyond repair. The rest of it took time and lots of solder and heat shrink to get right.
Back on topic, your build looks great... especially your attention to detail.
Cheers~
[This message has been edited by topcat (edited 09-01-2007).]
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07:26 AM
FieroMonkey Member
Posts: 3294 From: poway,CA,USA Registered: Nov 2002
just thought I would suggest, on the two cuts you made underneath the bumper to spread the sides out, You may want to take a drill and drill a hole at the end of each slice. This will help prevent the cuts from continuing to spread further on their own over time.
I love this thread man!
[This message has been edited by FieroMonkey (edited 09-01-2007).]
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01:55 PM
PFF
System Bot
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10270 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
Regarding the issue with the sagging door (if I read it correctly), I had a similar problem that I was able to fix by opening the door about half way or less (less than more) and putting a decent sized hydraulic car jack under the near end of the door with a towel to protect the bottom. I kept lifting the door/car at this point and after a few tries was able to get it to line up. Then went and double checked that all the hinge bolts were nice and tight. Right or wrong, this worked really well for me and I haven't fallen out of the car yet...
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01:42 AM
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10270 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
For the sagging doors, you can get replacement bushings pretty cheaply at a Chevy dealer. the S10/S15 trucks use the same bushings, and if you need pins, get the ones for the same trucks and you can trim them down, as they are about a half inch or so too long.....
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06:11 PM
PFF
System Bot
Sep 6th, 2007
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10270 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
Alright....real quick....this is what the molding now looks like with the new hinges.
Now on to the bigger stuff. Today, I had to fit the quarter window trim to the new fiberglass body. First issue was to test fit the plastic and mark where to cut the body.
Next was to trim the excess fiberglass and also trim the lip of the plastic trim.
This is what the trim looks like if I used the stock mounting locations.
This is after some spacing and adjusting.
This is what the piece should look like with the proper height in relation to the decklid.
While I was working on this, I was letting the panel adhesive dry so that I can blend the rear and front fenders into the sill plates to make the car really "flow".....I'm not a fan of seeing too many seams where one part meets the next. Also, since this is going to have a race car theme, the Dzus fasteners arrived today for the hood....
Coming along slowly.....
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 02-17-2008).]
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11:44 PM
Sep 15th, 2007
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10270 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
Ok I have to say I love your work. I like the glassed in roof, as it makes it look very clean. The rear spoiler is also very clean. But I have to question why you are bonding each and every part together? The reason I say this is because if you ever need to do "ANY" rerpairs it would be far easier to simply on bolt it. I have had to do more than enough glass repairs to my IMSA because of the condition I got it in. The Body seems plenty strong enough as is. BTW good choice on the larger wheels, and I'll tell you why. I have 295/50-15's mounted on 15X10's on the rear and while they look good they wallow around on the sidewalls like you would not believe. As for some saying that you should open up the wheel wells I am not sure it is nessasary unless you are going to lower it. In which case the front nose will become a big problem. I have the added Fiberglass chin spoiler and it drags everywhere. The Nose simply sticks out so far that it finds problems way before your tire can ride over them. Anyway good luck and great build.
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03:04 AM
Oct 18th, 2007
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10270 From: California Registered: Aug 2007