So today i towed home a 2001 pontiac grand prix gtp and with beginning the swap, i have a few questions,

Why does the pcm need to be reprogramed? is it necessary?

I plan to put a smaller pulley on, so with that in mind, would i want to run a stage 3 clutch?

Thanks!
Dev

ECM has to be re programed to deleet VATS so the car will start with no anti theft in a fiero with running smaller pullys you will need a proper tune to support it if you go 4 or 5 speed ECM needs auto codes deleete

And you most likely want the EGR disabled, most of the evap controls, and some other misc things programmed out.

How would i go about programming these things out?

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: How would i go about programming these things out?

i have a guy here in toronto who can set the ECM up for you !! but if you start modifying things like a smaller pully you will need a in car tune eventualy if you leave it mostly stock i can have a ecm programed for you ither auto or stick with anything deleeted you want

if the cars wiring and igniton is still intact it would be easy to do it with HP tuners before you pull everything apart .do a google on HP tuners .or get one of the 3800 guys on here to mod your ECM for you .

If you only want the simple things done, and you only plan on doing a few tweaks to it, a factory tune with the required fiero tweaks will work as good as buying a pile of tuning equipment.

another question, will i be able to use my stock cradle? i have a 2.5 5 speed

yes your cradle will work fine.

Very simple swap just have any one of many people like myself program your PCM so it runs properly with the manual tranny and what ever mods you are planning for your car and either buy or make your harness to match.
the Fiero tranny mounts will still work you just need to make up a good engine mount and dog bone set up.
if you look through the photos in the link below my sig you may find some use full info. Dan

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http://www.photosled.com/showgallery.php/cat/631

Another thing, how much of the GTP harness do I take? seeing as im not using the 4t60e do i just take the harness that goes with the motor?
Dev

bump? anyone know?

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: and what do i do to eliminate the egr system?

1) EGR Delete for exhaust
2) Remove EGR from Motor
3) Disable/Remove Codes from PCM

quote Originally posted by RULOOKIN: i have a guy here in toronto who can set the ECM up for you !! but if you start modifying things like a smaller pully you will need a in car tune eventualy if you leave it mostly stock i can have a ecm programed for you ither auto or stick with anything deleeted you want

I'm new to the forum and living in the GTA, but would like to know of some shops that are good with Fieros, especially if considering a swap.
Where/what name is the shop in Toronto you mentioned?

Thanks

[This message has been edited by I FAR I (edited 02-06-2012).]

So ive hit a brick wall, im just wondering do i need any of this wiring to the transmission? im sticking with the fiero 5 speed so none of that will be used, can i just cut it off there and program that out? the harness goes up to what looks like the cruise control, what is my best bet to do?



Dev

No you can't just take a stock harness and hack off legs and then expect it to work. What you need to do is take the harness apart and then reassemble it configured for a Fiero. At that time you can leave out the unused parts that run to the transmission.

I would suggest having someone do the work if you are unable or unwilling to do it yourself.

If you are willing to do the work yourself you can get assistance on how to do it properly on this forum. It will take some time and patience. You do need to solder some connections.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 02-07-2012).]

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: ..., what is my best bet to do?

Best bet is to BUY most of the conversion parts from Vendors or MOST likely you will NOT finish the project.
The Swap is relatively easy with all the parts and help from the Forum.

quote Originally posted by nosrac: Best bet is to BUY most of the conversion parts from Vendors or MOST likely you will NOT finish the project. The Swap is relatively easy with all the parts and help from the Forum.

What conversion parts are you talking about?

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: What conversion parts are you talking about?

Mounts, Wire Harness, PCM,

Im buying both the PCM and the mounts, the only thing im doing myself is the harness

Check to see if your oil pressure sender connector is a 3 or 4 pin connector. If not you will need to get one. The stock 3800 oil pressure sender will need to be changed to a 3 pin unit such as from an 88 Fiero if yours is not already. 88+ Oil pressure senders have the same form factor in 1, 2, 3, and 4 pin styles so make sure you use the 3 pin one. I would not use the stock 85-87 oil pressure sender (3 large flat blades) since they are somewhat unreliable, and more expensive. Now is the time to change to the 88 version it if you are building a harness. The two outside pins are used as a secondary switch to turn on the fuel pump. The middle pin is used to run the oil pressure gauge. That is the same on both the old (pre 87) and the new (88+) style oil pressure senders.

Your CTS (Coolant Temperature Sender) on your 3800 is most likely a 3 pin sender already. If it is not, you will want to convert to the 3 pin unit. The 3 pin unit combines both the CTS function for the ECM (2 outside pins) with a gauge sender (middle pin).

Don't forget to pull the ODB2 connector from inside the car.

The relays used in the 3800 cars are better than the relays used in the stock Fieros. The updated relays also will fit on the stock hangers. So my suggestion is to use the 3800 relays for the fuel pump and A/C compressor.

The bulkhead fitting can be separated by putting it in boiling water and letting it heat up.

Send me a PM if you want to purchase any broken connectors on your 3800. It seems like the 2 BAR MAP sensor connector is always broken on SC engines. I do have new shells available. You can de-pin your existing MAP connector but if it is well baked the easiest way to get the pins out is just to squeeze it with a pliers and break it open.

I also have pins for most any connector, but you really need a proper crimp tool to put them on correctly.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 02-08-2012).]

Does anyone have pictures on how they run their hoses to the heater core?

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/114722.html

Can anyone tell me what sensor this is and what it connects to?

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: Can anyone tell me what sensor this is and what it connects to?

That would be the EVAP purge solenoid. It is connected to the vac lines that run underneath the snout of the SC and around it. Unsure if you can delete it im in the process of researching and getting the money for a 3800 in my fiero. But i had a 98 GTP and know alot about those engines.

Keep the EVAP Purge Solenoid. Locate it on the transmission. The Green/White wire goes to the stock location of the Evap Purge Solenoid pin on the PCM connector. The other wire (Pink) goes to switched power (C203 pin K). Connect one end of it's vacuum connection to a vacuum source between the SC and the throttle body. The other vacuum connection runs to the purge connector on the evaporative canister., The PCM will then control the Evap Purge Solenoid to purge the canister during proper engine running times.

Get rid of the 3800 EVAP system and just feed a vacuum line from the engine to the Fiero factory charcoal canister and be done with it.
The EVAP system is more vehicle specific then car and to fully function you would need to add in the fuel tank pressure sensor which requires drilling a hole in your furl tank or filler tube.
Have the PCM programmed to remove all VATS, the EVAP, second O2 and the EGR if you plan to remove it and tweaked to match any mods your car has and if wanted to match your tire size so the speedo is more accurate. Dan

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http://www.photosled.com/showgallery.php/cat/631

I actually didn't know much about the harness and have since figured it out and learned and finally finished the donor side of the harness. you can cut the harness going into the firewall of the gtp. and then lay your harness on a flat area and take all the loom.and tape off (time consuming). then on the two pcm plugs one white and.one blue. get the plastic covers on top of them covering the wires off. there should be numbers accordingly. you will need to download a.pinout diagram. sinister performance online has them. it will list the number of the pin, what color the wire is, what the wire is for, where it goes, or if you can delete it. personally I would get rid of the evap, egr, transmission related sensors since your using a manual. and I choose to delete my.a/c. also the.theft deterent. its all in the.pinouts diagram. its in pdf file format. use the color to confirm your wire before pulling them. to pull them.out you will need to take the either blue or.white.bottoms off, held on by push pins on the.sides, then move the.wire up and down in the sleve to confirm where it is on the bottom. there will be.like piano.keys holding each wire in, lift the.key, and pull the wire out.

Good Luck with your swap. I just did a L-67 swap for the first time and these guys are really helpful. My sig has my swap thread. Lots o'pics

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Project Genisis Lo Budget 3800SC swap

88 formula 3.4L 4t60 swap

any news? bump

I'm doing mine the easy way ( so I think lol) I labeled and removed every wire from the GTP headlights to taillights. And same with the Fiero. I'm putting in all the Gtp wire harness in the Fiero this summer. There will have to be some mods of cut and soder wires to shorten and lenghten them but this way I go over every wire to ensure good wires and connections. Anyone wanna help? Lol

that's not the easy way, just pull what's in the engine bay, cutting it off where it leads into the firewall, that's all you need to make the motor work, plus you need the fuel pump, and obd datalink connector from under the dash. dont rip your fiero apart... that's to much of a hassle and much unneeded work.

Yea but I had some shorts in wiring with the stock and some mice got to it as well. I'm totally restoring everything anyways. It was in really rough shape when I got it and had so many electrical gremlins in it. I hate to say but worried it would have shorted out and caught fire burning it to the ground. Lol.

I have most of my interior finished. Its about 85-95% done. I gutted everything interior and installed the dash from the 99 grand prix in it. And bought new seats. And will be replacing rear upper frame rails and all wire harnesses along with tons of body work and custom body mods. Suspension and motor/Tranny are next yrs project.

Hey guys. thanks for the responses, i'm gonna need all the help i can get! so as it stands im just getting ready to pull the loom and tape off the wiring harness and rebuild it. I have a question though, ive been told that my izusu 5 speed will not bolt up to the 3800, is this true? I know the izusu is weak and wont hold up to the 3800 for long but does anyone know if it will in fact bolt up?
Dev

Yes it will bolt up and "work" just fine, it just won't take any abuse.

So i dont have to worry about dropping the motor and the izusu not bolting up to the 3800?

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: So i dont have to worry about dropping the motor and the izusu not bolting up to the 3800?

It will bolt up. Look at the bellhousings, they are the same.

Thank you! im glad i got that finally cleared up.

So im on the harness now and im working on the blue and clear connectors to the pcm. For the all the pins leading to the egr, cruise control or the 4t60e (which im not using), what would be the best bet to do? pull each pin out and remove it, or keep about an inch of wire on just in case?
Dev