Remove any unwanted or needed pins to make things a lot cleaner and cut down on the chances of a wire shorting out. Dan

I take it completely out. just keep a list of all the systems you removed. ie. egr, and auto trans. and purge, and so forth. so when you send the guy the pcm to be tuned he will know what exactly to do. that's so you won't end up with a nonstarting motor or a forever ses light. just because the man was misinformed.

Thats a good idea, on the pin-out diagram i highlighted all the pins i deleted, i think i'll make the list and also send the pin-out sheet showing what i took out.
Dev

I like to dissasemble the 3800 harness completely leaving full length wires on each connector all the way to the PCM pins if they have them. Cut out all the splice packs for power, ground, and 5v, then wrap all the connectors up so they are organized. The start assembling the new harness one connector at a time shorteniing or lengthening the wires as needed. Trying to work with the original harness stil partialy in tact makes for a lot of headaches in m opinion. PM me anytime if you need any help....I have been away from here for a while due to personal reasons, but im itching to get involved again ! Good Luck !!

I wouldn't disassemble it entirely. you can still trace all your wires with the pins still in. just confirm the pin number, and the color of the wire. then follow the wire to wherever it ends up. the wires are stuck together even with the tape removed. so you will be doing a lot of pulling apart.

quote Originally posted by Ryanstalin: I wouldn't disassemble it entirely. you can still trace all your wires with the pins still in. just confirm the pin number, and the color of the wire. then follow the wire to wherever it ends up. the wires are stuck together even with the tape removed. so you will be doing a lot of pulling apart.

Ya, one does not "need" to remove all the individual wires, but it sure makes the install ALLOT cleaner! It gives you the option to run the wires/loom in a different direction/path than stock 3800; making it more sutable for a Fiero engine bay.

Also, when making up your harness, try to plan 3-4 steps ahead, don't tape anything up until everything it run to where you want it...

Im in the process of doing a 3800 swap myself. I have deleted the:
Boost bypass
EGR
O2 sensor bank 2
Autotrans
180 thermostat
As for the evap purge solenoid im going to run the unboosted vacuum off the top of the motor to the solenoid then run one line from solenoid to both connectors teed together on the canister. I dont know if the pcm will still be able to control the purge soldenoid without the fuel tank pressure sensor or if the evap solenoid is turned off and on periodically, maybe someone can chime in

Usually the vent of the EVAP canister is left to the open air.

The purge of the EVAP canister should run to the EVAP solenoid. The other port of the EVAP solenoid should run to a vacuum source between the SC and the throttle body.

The PCM should be programmed to not run the vent valve and fuel tank pressure test.

If i program out the vent solenoid and fuel tank pressure test then what does the pcm open the valve based on?

quote Originally posted by 84se2m4: then what does the pcm open the valve based on?

Good question... I would imagin it would just vent the canister (open EVAP solinoid) upon startup for a few seconds...

The evap solenoid is only open during cruising conditions.

The evap is kept closed during idle conditions to keep the engine idling smooth and at the proper speed.

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz: The evap solenoid is only open during cruising conditions. The evap is kept closed during idle conditions to keep the engine idling smooth and at the proper speed.

And this is something that is programed into the PCM?

So what sensors do i need to replace? i know the oil pressure sender, (what do i do to wire it in?) and i remember hearing something about a coolant temp sensor, can anyone confirm?
Dev

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: So what sensors do i need to replace? i know the oil pressure sender, (what do i do to wire it in?) and i remember hearing something about a coolant temp sensor, can anyone confirm? Dev

Dev, use the search function; these questions have been asked and answered many times in the past. There are threads started that have full wiring diagrams in them for every wire...

Found the below two saved in my favs.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/115710.html
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/113892.html

[This message has been edited by ALJR (edited 03-13-2012).]

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: So what sensors do i need to replace? i know the oil pressure sender, (what do i do to wire it in?) and i remember hearing something about a coolant temp sensor, can anyone confirm? Dev

You need to use a 3 pin oil pressure sender, the same part number that is used for the 88 2.8 Fiero.

You also need to use a 3 pin CTS/Gauge Sender combo. Usually the 3800s come with the 3 pin CTS/Gauge Sender combo.


====

quote Originally posted by ALJR: And this is something that is programed into the PCM?

Yes

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: Another thing, how much of the GTP harness do I take? seeing as im not using the 4t60e do i just take the harness that goes with the motor? Dev

I know you don;t plan on using it so it doesn't matter to the swap but if the transmission is good and you sell it the GTP would have a 4t65HD not a 4T60E. I don't think those have been used since about '97

Can anyone tell me how much and what side to machine the camaro flywheel?

Macine the clutch side face down so the total thickness of the flywheel is .840" from the mounting boss to the clutch surface.

Again on the EVAP solenoid, not to hijack the thread but what is defined as a cruise condition? Sustained throttle position and vss inputting constant speed? In a stick swap is the pcm still able to know when the car is cruising

Thanks mike!

So with the flywheel i was just doing measurements and it loooks like a little more than a quarter inch is coming off, is that right?

Ya, it is a good amount....Make sure they go .840 or under, if its any bigger it can cause issues.

Now im just wating on getting a computer back from dan (mine got lost in the mail on the return trip). I have questions regarding vacuume lines and my fuel pump.

Where do i run these vacuume lines?




And then with the fuel pump, can anyone tell me what wire goes where? its the stock fuel pump out of the 2001 GTP

The one on the TB I run to the brake booster, I cap off the ones on top of the supercharger, and then run the MAP and FP regulator off the one under the SC snout. Cant help on that fuel pump, I always replace the Fiero one with a AC delco EP381.

[This message has been edited by Mike Gonzalez (edited 05-29-2012).]

+1 on using the stock Fiero fuel level sending unit / pump bracket.

On the thing you have in the pic - The sensor to the right is a pressure sensor - used to determine the integrity of the fuel tank. That is so it is known the tank is not leaking out fuel fumes and polluting. That sensor is not used on a Fiero 3800 conversion (If you try to use that pump assembly)

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 05-29-2012).]

Does anyone know the best way to get ahold of Dan (FIEROFLYER)? Ive tried PMing him but i dont know how often he checks them, Dev

Just thought id give an update

my dad brought me home a fitting for the lower intake manifold but its for copper pipe :/ can anyone tell me where to get the proper fitting for here?

Why not use copper?

Have used a threaded to 5/8" barbed fitting in brass from home depot, made by shark bite. then a 90° 5/8 barbed elbow also from shark bite. Run it straight to the firewall then down.

Can anyone tell me where I wire pins c, m, and n on the c203?

C is not used with the 3800, M ground to the engine block or chasis, N to pin E (Blk/Wht) of the A/C relay if you have A/C.

Got it running and driving today and I love it! Just one problem, the battery isn't charging properly, can anyone confirm my wiring? I have the thick wire from the alternator to the block under the c500, and then another wire going to 12 volt power from the block, is that correct?

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: Got it running and driving today and I love it! Just one problem, the battery isn't charging properly, can anyone confirm my wiring? I have the thick wire from the alternator to the block under the c500, and then another wire going to 12 volt power from the block, is that correct?

Wait, you have a positive going to the block??

Correct.

quote Originally posted by FieroDev: Got it running and driving today and I love it! Just one problem, the battery isn't charging properly, can anyone confirm my wiring? I have the thick wire from the alternator to the block under the c500, and then another wire going to 12 volt power from the block, is that correct?

Yes that is correct, I assume the "block" you are talking about is the power distribution block near c500. On the alternator there is another connector that should have 1, 2, or 3 small wires. The red one should be going to your PCM, Then there is a pin from the PCM that should go to c500 for the alternator/charge light.

So your saying that it's my alternating that is faulty, not my wiring?

Make sure the small red wire on the 4pin connector has 12v with the key on. If it does it should be working. Should have about 14v on the big red wire with the engine running.

and if the red wire isn't getting 12 volts do i bridge the wire to a different one?

Thee I would check all your fuses, continuity of the wire to the PCM and make sure its in the right place.