Crytical Point,
Is there a link to that 3.4L block / 3400 head 11psi engine. If not...
Is that turbo or supercharge?
What modifications were done to the engine.
I only ask because this is exactly what I was originally planning.
I thought I might have to do a 3500 or 3400 block/3500 head combo with turbo.

I have a N* set up in a 88 . Will sell set up with a install CD for 5,000. you come and pick up the engine,cradle ,computer ,axels& exhaust.This is an exact copy of Design 1 install. ......robert sellers seabee1678@hotmail.com

It was a 3.4 firebird
The engine was fitted with 3400 heads and pistons/connecting rods
21lb injectors
Turbo ran at 11psi Intercooled

It cranked out 390+ hp and 440+tq to the wheels and everything was pretty much stock except a few little mods. You can find it on 60v6 web site under one of the many turbo post.

There is a video to it or a link to it on the website and it is amazing and he could go higher but drives it daily and wanted to go easy on the engine.

Sweet. Do you know his username?

By the way... how do you say..."I own this page" or some such thing.

I have not a clue to his user name....I read his build thread but I know it is in 3.4 3400 hybrid topics.

I read it for the info and I went out and got myself a eaton m90 from a thunderbird SC but lucky me I got 2 of them both with intercoolers...... FREE!. I know that some people hate this version of the m90 but I think it will work fine on a 3400 that revs in the 6500 range. It also fed the stock 3.8 in the thunderbird to 14 psi so I figure in its stock form I will have to do some modifying to restrict it to 10 on a smaller engine. Alot of people say that it is to exspensive to do a SC on a 60v6 but since I have 2 intercoolers (one going to be modified to water) and 2 superchargers in great condition, I am in a good starting position. I want a little less because I want to keep axles in one piece and some reliabillity but also I think it will be fast enough with about 400 hp and 400ish tq but I am building up a cosworth engine and expecting it to be in the 400hp area at over 9000rpm but it isn't cheap but I lucked out and it came stock with a forged crank and rods and those numbers are not under boost and ALL N/A.

I'm familiar with the build you are talking about but haven't seen the page I don't believe unless it's this car before it was changed; http://force-fed-fabrications.com/index2.htm

I have an idea that will make fwd aluminum head engines even more easier to swap in since for some reason there is a terrible resistance to getting the most bang for the 60 degree V6 swap due to the attachment to the distributor, if I ever get the time to work on it.

If you want You can call " West coast engines " and talk to Jim (941) 628-9968 . He did great job on mine

quote Originally posted by Joseph Upson: Cheapest route can only be obtained if you do it yourself. There are dynoed examples of STOCK 3400 60 degree V6 engines putting out more than 330 hp at the wheels with the help of a single turbo at 10 psi. Spend ~$600 on custom pistons and turn the boost up to about 14-15 psi after adding a cam and intercooler along with a mild port and polish job and you'll be at 400hp. I have run my 3500 setup in progress with the aluminum head flow numbers and my reground cam specs entered in Desktoop Dyno and netted a speculated output of 392 hp at 10 psi. I started with a baseline configuration that put me a little under the engines certified output and have no doubt that with performance springs for the 6500rpm cam, proper tuning and water injection it will be considerably higher since 10psi is the minimum goal. The program is not perfect but it's often off on the low side or close to actual.

1, true do it yourself so that it saves the labor...

2. While doing the pistons do the forged and high compression rings connecting rods and upgrade the bearings as well as have the crank balanced and hell have it punched and ported and polished... if you tear it that far down do it all so you know all the parts are new and good for a long time it also saves money since it was already torn down the labor is already in it to tear it that far down go the extra mile... but it makes cost higher SORRY

3. I used many a "desktop dyno" and laptop ones that hook to car while driving and it said 435hp and I have been *SMACKED* by a nice and polite set of PFF members that told me those #'s can be way off and espescially the driving around dyno for laptops cause the noise can interfere with readings and such so after the build a chasis dyno would be nice which I am currently hunting down but without the forced air for the side ram airness it will make my machine suffer a little on readings for the chasis dyno (HP Racing of OKC) said that to me and they have looked over my car more than 40 times after I beat the snot out of a group of thier 5.0 Stangs.... But I am looking for a chasis dyno to know the actual power in hard core results... also my cam is built to 7500 redline power-shifts at a nice 7250

but yeah I like the thread lins and posts, call me "living under a rock" but I never knew about these forums at all until my car was wrecked and the insurance adjuster gave me the link to PFF to find a new shell for my engine and trans... I had mine built all by a machinist and money not to mention what little I could read in hot rod mags... and I told him what I wanted him to make the engine do in revs and such... no goal hp just a lot of cash and nice good built engine to start with...

very informative on the hybrids...

EDITED for spelling

[This message has been edited by jack_ink (edited 02-01-2007).]