Well for my turbo project i've been bouncing back and forth between intercooler and water injection. I decided to just go intercooler cause it's less work (feed/return tubes, controllers ect). Anyways when looking for water injection kits i came across this very interesting one that was created for the Grand National. http://www.smcenterprises.com/injector_kit.htm Pretty much seems complete, and for 400 dollars not that bad either. Might want to look into it if you're looking for some kind of cooling system.

-Coop

Coop9200
I visit your web-site and I saw a picture of your turbo parts, if you don't mind me asking. Where did you get those parts from/out-off?

I need a GN turbo, you know, something big, and not to big.

Thanks & nice ride!

quote Originally posted by THE BEAST: Coop9200 I visit your web-site and I saw a picture of your turbo parts, if you don't mind me asking. Where did you get those parts from/out-off? I need a GN turbo, you know, something big, and not to big. Thanks & nice ride!

i got them off ebay, package deal. The turbo is a garrett t3/t4 hybrid... .48 exhaust .60 compressor. Just search ebay, like i did for a week or so, you'll find exactly what you need

-Coop

Coop9200, Thank you!
I have a question, though. I'm going with the 3.4 DOHC engine swap, and I'm trying to pick the right turbo, for it. how about T3/T4 .63 exhaust .68 compressor? Any advice?

Thanks!

quote Originally posted by THE BEAST: Coop9200, Thank you! I have a question, though. I'm going with the 3.4 DOHC engine swap, and I'm trying to pick the right turbo, for it. how about T3/T4 .63 exhaust .68 compressor? Any advice? Thanks!

that seems like a good size...this turbo is going on my 3.1...so a turbo about that size is pretty good for a 3.4

-Coop

I've been driving my lil turbo car around for nearly a week now. I still think he's got some problems. I've read on the forums that you are supposed to time the car with the A and B terminals at the ALDL jumpered, then set the timing to 10 degrees. One of the mechanics here at work says you set it to 0 degrees. Who is right??

The thing isn't very fast. I'm only about as fast as those stock Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbos. I have more power at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle than full throttle. If I floor it, then let off, I can feel the thing accellerate more. I know I'm running rich...right now too. But this timing thing is really getting to me. Exactly HOW do I time this thing properly? I've tried contacting Dennis, but haven't heard back from him. He must be out of town or something because I don't think he'd just ignore me like that.

Any help on getting this thing running right will be appreciated.

When setting the timing, you have to have the 2 pins jumped. Then set the the marks to 10º then remove the jumper. All set.

I checked my timing, it was set to 10 deg. with the pins jumpered. The thing is still running very rich and blowing black smoke. It isn't very quick either. Dennis is sending me a new chip to lean things out and hopefully that will give me some more power too. I'm quite surprised at the lack of good power this thing is making.

Sounds to me like he's having to comensate for your injectors... the fuel trim number you gave earlier show that the system has hit it's lean limit attempting to lean the system down, and it's losing fuel control. 50 PSI sounds aweful high also, off the top of my head I'd expect 34-40psi range.

Did you romp on it before debugging your electricals? Maybe something else has gone bad-black smoke & no power is not good sign bro-
Good Luck,
GG
OUT>

If your thinking of new wires get the Magnecores. The're the best - no contest. See:

http://www.magnecor.com/

Good Luck

Dennis sent me a new chip a couple of days ago that cut back the fuel maps. It has more power, but it is running too lean. Lean enough that it is knocking and detonating under throttle. I thought I'd pull back the timing a few degrees to see if this would cure the problem, but it didn't. Even in field service mode (no electronic spark advance) with the timing at 6 degrees it was still knocking. I guess I'll have to put the rich chip back in....sigh...

Did you ever get it running properly? Or still workin on it?

you need some dyno time and to use a wideband o2 sensor to make this work right... soundslike your running WAY rich because of huge injectors and your computer cant compensate for it... i think you could use a stand alone fuel management system.

------------------
'86 Fiero GT

www.KylesFiero.tk
www.XoticRydz.tk

Bump to the top.

I would really like to see Tanner's turbo work. Turbos are ENTERTAINING! It's fun to anticipate the boost, watch the gauge, feel the power when it hits. People like me need a good, out-of-the-box kit that has outstanding instructions, support, and is complete. As far as I am concerned, a great kit will include a complete engine management unit, air/water intercooler and a water injection unit, perhaps even a wideband 02 sensor and the electronics to tune it. If it costs $4,500 and makes 250 hp with a pushrod 3.4, surely it would sell more units than a cheaper one that's getting bad press.

Disclaimer: I'm technological impaired. Some of us lurkers will never know how to do a turbo on the cheap. I'm just not interested in spending the time and effort needed to become an expert. For me, a proven unit is worth paying for. If it works, the seller deserves the profit, even a handsome one. To the ones that can do it from scratch, congratulations, you deserve it. Perhaps someday I'll be paying you for your knowledge.

Good luck Tanner and Dennis,
Robert

[This message has been edited by westtexas (edited 05-06-2004).]

bump

hows the turbo car coming? still having problems?

------------------
1987 Gold SE
V6, 5spd, sunroof, 65k miles on the clock
Mods= underdrive pulley, no cat, exhaust cut out, new exhaust, accel coil, 8mm plug wires, occasionally a stage 2 jet chip, k&n filter

Yeah, would love to see an update (if any)

------------------
VOTE FOR THE FIERO!

Black '87 GT Auto - Daily Driver & Autocrosser
Eibach springs, Koni shocks, Kosei K1s, Kumho Ecsta V700s, poly bushings, rear swaybar, MSD ignition, shift-kit, custom intake scoop

one last try for an update.

bump

------------------
1987 Gold SE
V6, 5spd, sunroof, 65k miles on the clock
Mods= underdrive pulley, no cat, exhaust cut out, new exhaust, accel coil, 8mm plug wires, occasionally a stage 2 jet chip, k&n filter

Dennis, what happened? Did you get the tuning straightened out? I'm hoping there was a simple solution.

Robert

Just fineshed doing a DYI turbo install on my 86GT (2.8) and have a few recomendations for you, first off, do heat-wrap your 'Y' pipe and the exhaust side of your turbo or better yet, get a turbo blanket. It will not only lower under hood temps, it will scavange the exhaust better. Also, get a sheet or two of that self-stick radiant heat sheilding and put it any thing near the turbo or exhaust pipes, like your clutch slave cylinder, ign coil, any intake pipes, hoses, etc. You can get the stuff from Summit or Gegs for like $9 a sheet. And do put a fan somewhere.
Secondly, take your car to someone with a wide-band dyno, it will be worth it. Don't guess at what's happening, find out! Guessing can get costly.

Bump...

------------------
-Rick Stewart
85GT Turbo 3.4TDC/5-speed in progress
http://www.thestewartconnection.com/fiero/fiero.html

I just read the three page story, but where is the ending?

TTT

I spoke with Paul Vargyas earlier and he ended up pulling the KFGroup/Dennis La G. set-up out of his car as nothing they came up with would make it run right.

What ended up happening with the car on this thread?

As the previous poster stated, a turbo needs to be tuned on a dyno, especially an "add-on" turbo, or by a tuner who can do test pulls in the car with a laptop and the right software. At the prices of these turbo kits they should include the means to properly tune each individual car, ie software or free dynotuning in your state. If you take the WRX aftermarket scene for example there are no turbo/mods performance companies that would include a "one size fits all" tuning procedure. How much more important would dynotuning be for a car whose engine was not designed for a turbo.

I hesitated last year at being one of the first to get the KFGroup turbo for my 3.4ohv and I'm glad I did. Has anyone had a great experience and great results with the KFGroup turbo? And I've heard the placement of the DesignOne turbo turns your trunk into an oven The only way I could reach my goal to get around 280rwhp is with a turbo @ 8-9psi but the only dynotuner that I know of that is qualified and knows fieros is Lyndon at Westers' Garage but he's in Canada above Washington state. So I'll probably be paying him a visit before long.
John

[This message has been edited by 2fn4wrds (edited 10-06-2004).]

Wow! I was surprised to see this thread still open and active. Sorry I never responded to those posts 5 months ago. I guess I didn't see it.

I did get the turbo running properly with no problems. Dennis sent me one more chip and everything worked fine.

However, I no longer own the 3.4 or the turbo system. I wanted more power, so I sold the engine and turbo to a forum member over a month ago. I am currently in the process of putting a 383 V-8 in my fiero. I hope it is enough.

Tanner has sold the turbo kit and 3.4 engine. He's in the middle of doing a V8.

I have the Design One kit on my 2.8. It honestly has plenty of power and runs great. The little IHI turbo does limit power, but it is one of the most effecient turbos out there. It spools quickly and flows pretty nice for it's small size.

The manual transaxle kits put the turbo right under the cruise control and the vacuum canister is relocated. I did melt my carpet before I installed the "included" turbo blanket. With the blanket on and a few layers of tinfoil behind the carpet, trunk temps are not too bad.

[edit] Looks like he was posting his reply as I was typing mine

[This message has been edited by SCCA FIERO (edited 10-06-2004).]

SCCA,

What boost are you running with your 2.8? And do you have a different boost/map for the track?, ie for higher octane.

Thanks

I run around 10 psi and somtimes at races I crank it up to 12 psi, depending on temperature. Fuel and timing are controlled by the stock kit controls (2 Bar MAP and custom chip). My air/fuel ratio gauge shows it always running a little rich under boost. I do get a bit of pinging around 12 psi sometimes. One cold morning running through Idaho up a steep mountain I hit 15 psi. I was doing 120 before I knew it.

It's now getting fitted with a liquid intercooler and an upgraded turbo.

SCCA,

This is incredibly encouraging news! I have hesitated going turbo because I constantly hear you can't go above 7 or 8 lbs of boost with these gm pushrods engines. On the street I'm content with the power I have but I'm underpowered for the track. If I could get 10-12+ lbs of boost with my 3.4 I'd be in heaven.

Is your 2.8 stock? With that kind of boost (12+ at times) you must be making 240 crank hp or so. If you increase to a larger turbo can that engine handle more boost?

Thanks for the input so far. I feel a strong lean toward the design1 turbo.

John

[This message has been edited by 2fn4wrds (edited 10-07-2004).]

My shortblock is 100% stock, but also a brand new crate motor with about 5,000 miles on it. The heads and intakes and been ported and ARP headstuds with Fel-Pro copper ring gaskets. I also have a custom turbo-grind cam with heavy duty springs and 1.6 roller rockers. It spins to 7k and seems happy to do so. There's quite a bit more bolt ons.

I must mention my old 100K+ mile motor that didn't last 2,000 miles with 10 psi. It spun a rod bearing and 2 more were about to.

I don't expect this new motor to last 100k miles. No miracles here.

And I don't recommend running more than 10 psi on a stock motor, or more than 8 on a high mile one. I do it because I'm stupid

------------------

2002 Utah Region SCCA 1st Place C Street Prepared
Utahfieros.com

Just as an added update, I am the person who bought Tanner's engine for installation in an 87 Mera/project car that was recently rescued from a driveway in NC where it had been "resting" for about 7 years. It is now in the car and I am trying to get it to work properly. If I can get my current problems resolved, I will let everyone know the results and post a picture of the installation.

quote Originally posted by SCCA FIERO: Be careful if it's not running right. If it's losing power at WOT, it could be detonation. I think that kit uses a Nissan Skyline turbo for some reason. And as mentioned earlier, you should close the gap on your plugs to .035, that's what mine are gapped. Sorry to hear the insturctions suck. My Miller-Woods kit came with a book of very detailed instructions, even a parts list with numbers for everything. Get it running right and we'll race (bring your pink slip)

ive never seen a car title that was pink

quote Originally posted by aaronrus: ive never seen a car title that was pink

They are in California

Building up the motor is up to you. It depends on what kind of power (boost) you want. I'd suggest better headgaskets and ARP headstuds and better valve springs to begin with.

My cam is from Crower and I can't find the specs right now... I can dig it up if you really want it. The cam was pretty expensive ($300+ just for the cam and lifters) and I had to get offset retainers for the taller Crower springs.

I have an 87GT that needs a motor and have thought about putting this shortblock in it and building a strong 2.8 for my 88.

I haven't really decided on a turbo yet,(maybe a stage3 .63 T3/T04e) but I can expect to be around $2k dollars poorer when it's done . And I am hoping to beat Tanner's V8 so I can keep my car

quote Originally posted by SCCA FIERO: It's now getting fitted with a liquid intercooler and an upgraded turbo.

SCCA,

You never told me what intercooler you're upgrading to. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I progress.

Thanks

------------------
The lil' racer
87'gt 3.4L ohv Westers' tuning
Herb Adams, 8shark susp.
WCF Alum Bushings
Konis, ST's, Crane
Vented discs, s.s. brake lines
Porterfield pads
Pole Position SO-3's
Front battery, Dickman Getrag linkage
& short throw
and on and on

[This message has been edited by 2fn4wrds (edited 10-12-2004).]

Update on the turbo 3.4 L installation. The engine is in the car and running, but is very rich and has no power past 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. The problem appears to be the chip calling for too much fuel. I contacted Dennis Lagura (kit supplier) and asked him to help resplve the problem and even offered to pay for the work. He was very difficult to contact (left messages on home, shop, and cell phones and sent e-mails), but eventually agreed to contact my mechanic the next day. Almost two weeks have passed and no call from him. Since he never contacted the mechanic doing the install, I have given up on him.

I hope that Jeremy (Fiero Factory) can do the new chip program and make the car run correctly. I would be cautious about buying a new turbo kit from Dennis until you resolve the support issue favorably. Updates will be posted if there is any progress.

The car is now running well and I drove it about 250 miles today to help break in a new Stage II clutch. The acceleration is nice and I have to watch it or I will be at 80 plus very quickly. I suspect that the car is not as fast off the line as a 4.9 with a manual transmission, but mid and high speed ranges ought to be very competitive if not faster. My time with a 4.9 is limited, so take my observations with a grain or two of salt.

All of the modification was chip programming changes and a lot of observation by the programmer. Jeremy at the Fiero Factory came through for me when Dennis apparently decided not to support his kit even after I offered to pay for the work. Hats off to both Jeremy and the Fiero Factory for their help in returning a Mera to drivable condition. I will try to post some pictures of the install since the turbo and air filter positions are quite different from other set up that I have seen.

so... how many miles are on that motor and how much boost are you making??? i say rev it to 3k and slip the clutch... then youll really know how fast it is...

------------------
'86 Fiero GT
My Fiero XoticRydz Mid-Rear Madness

Be Excellent To Each Other" - Bill S. Preston Esquire Ted Theadore Logan

In the neighborhood of 6 psi boost according to the computer and 5 or so on the mechanical gage. The block has about 6500 miles on it and the rest of the parts came from an 87 2.8 with 91 K miles on it. Before I dump the clutch at even 3000 RPM, the clutch needs some more break in. It is too much trouble and expense to change out a clutch unless you really have to. I have to save a few bucks for the new interior, new cAt and exhaust system, some bodywork, and a paint job. Anyone in the Atlanta area know of a good paint shop?

quote Originally posted by TaurusThug: so... how many miles are on that motor and how much boost are you making??? i say rev it to 3k and slip the clutch... then youll really know how fast it is...