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| items to restore when cradle is dropped (Page 1/2) |
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sledcaddie
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JUL 31, 05:11 PM
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If you have the opportunity to drop the complete engine cradle, this gives better access to many maintenance items. As an example, it would be MUCH easier to repair any exhaust leaks, cracked manifold, or broken off exhaust studs. Am considering dropping the cradle this fall. What other things would you suggest we tend to while it is out? Replace plastic vacuum lines? Valve cover gaskets? Oil pan gasket? Replace distributor? I don't want it all re-installed, and have somebody tell me, "You should've done.......". Please give any suggestions of what you may have experienced. Thanks.
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fierosound
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JUL 31, 05:32 PM
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Dennis LaGrua
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JUL 31, 06:01 PM
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I would thoroughly clean and paint the cradle, change the engine to pipe coolant hoses and clean the engine. The engine out also would permit the easy cleaning, painting and buffing of the upper plenum. I would also replace the seal under the fuel inlet block as its a potential leak point for gasoline. In all of the old seals that I have removed most have been badly deteriorated. A check of the cradle bushings and distributor O ring might also be good. Figure four to five hours of labor to drop the cradle on a first try. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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Rexgirl
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AUG 01, 03:09 AM
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While it's not a maintenance item if you don't already have poly or aluminum cradle mounts, I would recommend installing them
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sledcaddie
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AUG 01, 01:56 PM
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The OEM cradle mounts are rubber. Is the reason for switching to poly or aluminum for performance or endurance?
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spad
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AUG 01, 02:22 PM
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Did that few years ago, here's some pictures to give idea:
http://spad.dy.fi/fiero/cradle_refresh.php
I would recommend
-Engine and transmission mounts
-Cradle mounts
-CV joint boots and axle shaft seals
-Lower control arm bushings and ball joints
-Tie rod ends
-Hand brake cables
-Checking for exhaust manifold cracks and broken bolts
Optional depending on miles,
-Water pump (every 50 k miles)
-Alternator (every 150 k miles)
-Engine rebuild (150-250 k miles?)
These are cheap and easy to do when cradle is removed. I would not use much time for items, that can be easily serviced on-car.
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Rexgirl
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AUG 01, 04:35 PM
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General Motors engineers went to solid cradle mounts in the 1988 cars, for good reason. The car will almost certainly feel more stable. And of course the rubber bushings in our car's chassis should be changed anyway given their age. [This message has been edited by Rexgirl (edited 08-02-2019).]
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sledcaddie
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AUG 01, 08:15 PM
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Thanks, Spad! Great photos! I'm sure we'll see more once the cradle is dropped.
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cvxjet
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AUG 01, 09:58 PM
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By replacing the rubber cradle mounts with aluminum you strengthen the rear chassis- Instead of floating around back there, the cradle becomes a re-inforcement to the chassis, making it more rigid. I would not use Poly- Straight aluminum or even steel- I did this to my 85 SE V6...Steel bushings welded into the front openings, with aluminum blocks at the back.
Rodney Dickman makes a aluminum bushing kit for $99.....
I have now switched to an 88 subframe/Suspension in the rear- even better![This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 08-01-2019).]
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MulletproofMonk
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AUG 02, 08:20 AM
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