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exhaust manifold porting by goatvenom
Started on: 01-02-2012 12:50 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: Dodgerunner on 01-02-2012 09:01 PM
goatvenom
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Report this Post01-02-2012 12:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for goatvenomSend a Private Message to goatvenomDirect Link to This Post
Hello I'm about to port my exhaust manifolds while i have my engine out for a swap to a different car and i was wondering if any one had any tips or tricks on what to use grinding stones or sanding drums? or something i might not have even thought of.
anything will to help and make it easier will be appreciated.

thanks in advance

Ryan
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lateFormula
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Report this Post01-02-2012 01:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lateFormulaSend a Private Message to lateFormulaDirect Link to This Post
Die grinder or a Roto-Zip (if you do not have a compressor) and carbide burrs:

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n7vrz
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Report this Post01-02-2012 01:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for n7vrzSend a Private Message to n7vrzDirect Link to This Post
And of course you will wear safety equipment. Dust mask, gloves, eye protection and clothes that you dont' mind getting all sorts of tiny metallic burrs in.
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DimeMachine
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Report this Post01-02-2012 02:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DimeMachineSend a Private Message to DimeMachineDirect Link to This Post
Assuming 2.8 stock manifolds, do not go too deep grinding inside the tube - i think that is where they are welded. - If i remember correctly, the outside of the tube is not welded and can crack if you grind the insides too far.

You could weld up the outside where the tube an flange meet and then grind away the insides without worry..

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goatvenom
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Report this Post01-02-2012 04:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for goatvenomSend a Private Message to goatvenomDirect Link to This Post
thanks i wouldn't have thought of using these ill go grab a set

Ryan
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Arns85GT
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Report this Post01-02-2012 06:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post
If this is your first time porting, go cautious. Yes use the carbide burrs but no, don't use the die grinder or air tool. Use an electric drill. It works slower and you'll get better results. Also, for the finer finishes you need a Dremel or the equivalent.

The 120 grit flap wheels finish metal off nicely. If you can find one, a compressed paper bit for the electric drill is a nice way to get a polished surface. In fact, if you don't want to spring for carbide burrs and you have a Dremel, they can do a pretty respectable job too.

Just don't go at it like you are a pro. Use caution.

Arn
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post01-02-2012 08:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
I've posted these before but here's a quickie photo log of what you want to do:

DimeMachine mentioned he thought the welds were on the inside, but they're actually on the outside. From this picture you can see how oval holes were punched into the collector tube when they should have been round holes.



You don't need to buy expensive burrs to do the job, although they will make it easier. I used a small grinding stone on my die grinder to grind away the restrictions in each port:



Here's a pic of the rough finsished product:



After the grinding stone, I used a sanding drum on a Dremel tool to knock down the last few millimeters and smooth out the rough edges.
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Dodgerunner
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Report this Post01-02-2012 09:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
I used small grinding stones on my die grinder to grind away the restrictions in each port:
Didn't take long at all and a lot cheaper.
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