I've read all the topics I could find on this but didn't see my exact issue so I'll ask here.
I've read that it is possible to replace the top hinge pins without removing the door. As a quick fix I want to try this first before resorting to removing the door completely. I have ordered the pins and bushings from Rodney's site and am trying to understand the process. I'm not sure I can see how the bushings can be replaced without separating the upper hinge brackets from each other - essentially removing the door - due to the flanges on the bushings which seem to go between the matching hinge pieces. (between the upper pieces and between the lower pieces of the upper hinge assemblies)
When folks talk about replacing the upper pin without removing the door are they talking about just the pin and not the bushings? I don't see the effectiveness of replacing the pins without replacing the bushings too, since I would think the bushings are the wear out points causing door sag - not the pins themselves. Any help appreciated.
ps... I already replaced the striker bolts. Quieted the rattles but the doors are a bit harder to open now. Probably due to the sag which is what I am trying to address now.
------------------ My rides... 1988 GT with a 3.4L V6 automatic 2006 Harley Sportster 'cause I love the twisties on two wheels or four.
[This message has been edited by Rsvl-Rider (edited 04-06-2014).]
I've read that it is possible to replace the top hinge pins without removing the door.
I replaced the top and bottom pins (and all bushings) without "removing" the door.
Have a helper balance the open door on a platform (2x4, whatever works) that you can use a hydraulic floor jack with to adjust the height. After pulling the pins, move the door away from the car frame just far enough to swap out the bushings. Then move the door back in place and install the new pins. Easy peasy.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-06-2014).]
I pulled both pins at the same time and did the bushings top and bottom with the door off, it wasn't hard at all. Of course I don't have power anything in my doors.
[This message has been edited by BrittB (edited 04-06-2014).]
I replaced the top and bottom pins (and all bushings) without "removing" the door.
Have a helper balance the open door on a platform (2x4, whatever works) that you can use a hydraulic floor jack with to adjust the height. After pulling the pins, move the door away from the car frame just far enough to swap out the bushings. Then move the door back in place and install the new pins. Easy peasy.
The other procedures seem much more complicated.
I'm thinking I could use my motorcycle jack to balance the door. It has two parallel horizontal support bars so it should balance better.
I have power windows and mirrors. Will I be able to get enough separation without disconnecting wires?
[This message has been edited by Rsvl-Rider (edited 04-06-2014).]
Top is load w/ head down on later years. Easy to replace them.
Bottom need spring compressor. Problem is Fiero and other 2 door cars need modifying instructions because springs are heavier than 4 doors car springs. Sorry, I don't have the instructions/pictures. Be careful because easy to slip off then spring goes where ever and you hope does hit you.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Top is load w/ head down on later years. Easy to replace them.
Bottom need spring compressor. Problem is Fiero and other 2 door cars need modifying instructions because springs are heavier than 4 doors car springs. Sorry, I don't have the instructions/pictures. Be careful because easy to slip off then spring goes where ever and you hope does hit you.
I ordered the spring compressor tool when I ordered the pins.
I just put a floor jack under the end of the door with a 2x4 between the jack head and the door bottom and replaced one pin at a time. The door stayed in place just fine for me to do the job alone without a helper.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
This is a job I will be doing on the drivers side door come summer, just bookmarked this page. Thanks ! Keep an eye out for me come June/July , I'll have questions if it isn't as easy peasy as people say. I don't have a spring compressor but ill try to get a loaner from autozone, advance, or pep boys. Ill need to order a big one for my coil spring swap too.
------------------ ===Always trying to find time to work on cars=== Louis Duet Baldwin, Long Island, NY Where driving hard is SOP. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Blue" <= '85 Fiero GT Stock V6---Stock everything. Trying to keep it 'mostly' that way. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Boo" <= '81 Delorean DMC-12 The "DuetLorean" VIN #5835 Stock PRV engine Robertson Equipped Neiland/Delman Engineered Carbed and loving it! (Peugot 604 manifold) ---"Sorry purists"
[This message has been edited by Lou and Blue (edited 04-06-2014).]
I just put a floor jack under the end of the door with a 2x4 between the jack head and the door bottom and replaced one pin at a time. The door stayed in place just fine for me to do the job alone without a helper.
Steve
Were you able to replace the bushings this way, or just the pins. If just the pins - did that do the job in fixing the door sag?
I had about a half inch of sag and I got away with just replacing the upper pin. I also used HELP! brand striker bolt for a FORD #38421 (found that information while searching forum) and now my door is solid without any sagging and rattling.
Here is a link to theogre suggested type of nylon washer. He only used one on the lower hinge pin, but I installed one on the upper hinge pin as preventative maintenance to minimize wear of the components. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...000503-2-000781.html
[This message has been edited by canfirst (edited 04-17-2014).]
I finally changed out all the pins and bushings. Ordered them and the spring compressor from Rodney. Tried a variety of recommended methods but ended up removing the door entirely up to the limit of the wiring harness. Used my motorcycle lift and a rope from the ceiling to support the door. Still a tight space to work but I got it done.
My biggest frustration is that I was not able to fully seat two of the pins. One upper and one lower still have about an eighth of an inch from fully seating but nothing I did would seat them. The space and the angles are difficult to work in but I squeezed and pounded away without luck and finally had to give up. The doors do seem to work better now but I'm just hoping they won't work themselves out over time. Seriously thinking about trying to fit a C clamp in there to force them down but not sure if the angles and the space will allow.
I finally changed out all the pins and bushings. Ordered them and the spring compressor from Rodney. Tried a variety of recommended methods but ended up removing the door entirely up to the limit of the wiring harness. Used my motorcycle lift and a rope from the ceiling to support the door. Still a tight space to work but I got it done.
My biggest frustration is that I was not able to fully seat two of the pins. One upper and one lower still have about an eighth of an inch from fully seating but nothing I did would seat them. The space and the angles are difficult to work in but I squeezed and pounded away without luck and finally had to give up. The doors do seem to work better now but I'm just hoping they won't work themselves out over time. Seriously thinking about trying to fit a C clamp in there to force them down but not sure if the angles and the space will allow.
Anyone had this problem or can recommend a fix?
ever flair any tubing? not the right size to do the job but the tool looks a lot like a 2 jaw pulley puller, get where I am going with this yet? some tools have uses they were never created for, that spring compressor for the door string works great to compress the Ebrake springs at the end of the cable near the rear brake as well.
if the tool is not that expensive, like the spring compressor tool is I usually buy it, if it is something I can use at work and at home I buy 2 so when I have a job at home I don't have to remember to bring a tool home with me, and if it is something that I could brake, lose, need 2 of to get a job done I will buy multiples for home and work. just a little added advise for those who are just starting out. think about how many times you need more than one wrench of the same size and think about that for every tool you ever buy.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 04-28-2014).]
Should be no reason why they didn't seat properly.
Were the pins too long? (...and the end is hitting something?)
Did you put the top pin in from the bottom? (...pointing up)
Did the barbs get hung up on something during the install? (They shouldn't have.)
That's why its so frustrating... The pins were correct and the same length as original, Got them from Rodney Dickman. No obstructions preventing the installation. Top pins went in from the bottom and the barbs were not damaged prior to installation.
I know I had to use a 3/8" extension when I was putting mine in and hit that with a BFH I forget how long of one it was but most likely 6" or longer, made hitting the pin a lot easier than trying to swing a hammer in there just on the pin.
I know I had to use a 3/8" extension when I was putting mine in and hit that with a BFH I forget how long of one it was but most likely 6" or longer, made hitting the pin a lot easier than trying to swing a hammer in there just on the pin.
Steve
BFH and an extension..I used the very same specialized tool as well! Worked great on a couple of pins. Pounded on the others until the courtesy light just inside the door went out. Don't know if the pounding damaged the switch or the bulb but that's when I finally gave up.
I'm thinking a C-clamp might work to compress the pins the remaining distance but I couldn't fit it and still get that sliding pin on the clamp to turn far enough in that small space. I wonder if they make a C-clamp with a socket / hex head style instead of the sliding pin?
Pounded on the others until the courtesy light just inside the door went out. Don't know if the pounding damaged the switch or the bulb but that's when I finally gave up.
All this pounding shouldn't be necessary.
Are you trying to push the pins in while the weight of the door is hanging on the hinges? If so, I suggest you support the door using something like a hydraulic floor jack. I suspect something is just a bit out of alignment and the weight of the door is making it (near) impossible for the pins to slide through all the way.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-29-2014).]
It was well supported. I tried adjusting the jack every which way thinking it was a bad angle, too high or too low. Nothing worked. I had no problems with two of the four pins. These two just won't go.
