I just changed the spark plugs on my Formula.The window side is such a hassel. My hands are all scraped up because of the tight squeeze. So I was just wondering. Did anyone ever think of a way to put a small access door through the rear ( fire)wall to better access the plugs, using a ratchet extension of coarse.
Did anyone ever think of a way to put a small access door through the rear ( fire)wall to better access the plugs...
I'm sorry, but that's a ridiculous suggestion. Do you really think that going through all that trouble would be easier than say... temporarily removing the rear decklid to gain added access?
Changing the front plugs is not that bad of a job. Just requires a 3/8" drive ratchet, a 2 1/2" extension, and a spark plug socket. Period. Recently discussed Here.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-30-2018).]
It may be possible, but there is the computer and wire harnesses that are in that area...
Whenever I have to apply a decent amount of force on a wrench in a confined area, I wear thick leather gloves to protect my hands from scrapes and bruises.
No kiddin Pat, thats exactly what I used. But I figured a trick way in would be easier than removing the decklid. All that for 3 plugs? I had very little throw of the wrench due to either a harness or bracket down there. And once one did have the access door, it would be a done deal for every future time you did a tune up. Once again, just a thought. I think I'll go with the gloves instead, makes much more sense.
I figured a trick way in would be easier than removing the decklid. All that for 3 plugs?
And you're suggesting opening up the firewall, and fabricating a hatch... all that for 3 plugs?
Changing the front plugs gets relatively easy after the first couple of tuneups. Just make sure to use anti-seize on the new plugs, and the next time it'll be a breeze.
In 190,000 miles I have changed the plugs maybe 3 times! And one of those times was when I changed the whole dang engine(The plugs were really easy that time!)
There are some mid-engined cars(Pantera) that DO have a hatch in the firewall for access...But I think it is more to get to the water-pump and distributor.......
I ask the same question about the possibility of the access door a few seasons back and someone did post a picture of the panel he cut to get to the window side plugs. I studied it and came to the conclusion that having to remove the seats, and the rear trim panel weren't worth it especially due to the chance of damage to hoses and wires in the engine compartment. Now if I were doing a swap and I had a blank slate to work with I might look at it differently.
I asked the same question about the possibility of the access door a few seasons back and someone did post a picture of the panel he cut to get to the window side plugs...
Makes about as much sense as installing a trap door in the floor to make it easier to sweep cookie crumbs out of the car.
In high school I had a hot rod VW squareback with a trap door to jettison beer cans! Made sense to me then especially when the blue light came on behind me. ah the good old days.
In high school I had a hot rod VW squareback with a trap door to jettison beer cans!
Ha ha... honestly, that's what I was going to post originally. Then I was going to change it to pop cans, but not everybody calls them "pop" cans... so I settled for cookie crumbs!
I have big, clumsy hands, but I can manage the job in about 15 minutes now. After a few times it gets easier and doesn't need any special access or tricks.
Because it's so much easier to pull the interior to open the trapdoor.......
Front plugs are easy, if you go in from the side, below the valve cover and use your fingers as your eyes.
Exhaust manifold bolts are still a pain if one breaks off.
Or if a plug breaks off at the top of the threads, which I had happen on a Duke I bought that had probably never had the plugs changed in it's life.
"fingers for eyes''... As a mechanic for many years, that was almost instinct and my daughter could never understand how I did it when I was working on her vehicle, but anyone that is a gearhead quickly masters it.
I had 5 different Fieros but all were 2.5 so I can't add anything much to this conversation, but would a good 3/8 air ratchet help in this in regards to not having room to swing the ratchet?
(I do sure understand the beat up wrists and hands tho. being on blood thinners, and my hands, wrists, and forearms becoming a bloody awful mess anytime I do any kind of work is one of the reasons I had to let our Fieros go)
On the V-6, there is plenty of room to swing a standard length ratchet if you go in from the side. I think that many of the removal problems stem from accumulated crud buildup around the plug hex in the plug pocket, preventing full depth engagement of the socket. The first step should always be to clean the plug pocket of debris and give each plug a soaking with a penetrant. (I like KROIL) The second step is to reclean the plug pocket and soak again. Once that's done, check that the socket fully engages the hex and try to remove the plug. If it doesn't budge, start the engine and let it run for a bit, then cool, then resoak...... Wash, rinse, repeat. This technique has worked well for me on many cars from the rust belt. And save many people $$$ by not having the dealership pull the head.
On the V-6, there is plenty of room to swing a standard length ratchet if you go in from the side. I think that many of the removal problems stem from accumulated crud buildup around the plug hex in the plug pocket, preventing full depth engagement of the socket. The first step should always be to clean the plug pocket of debris and give each plug a soaking with a penetrant. (I like KROIL) The second step is to reclean the plug pocket and soak again. Once that's done, check that the socket fully engages the hex and try to remove the plug. If it doesn't budge, start the engine and let it run for a bit, then cool, then resoak...... Wash, rinse, repeat. This technique has worked well for me on many cars from the rust belt. And save many people $$$ by not having the dealership pull the head.
I don't think that would have helped a lot with mine. The metal was pretty dang thin.
I considered an access panel for a long time myself. It could have rolled edges like an aircraft inspection panel and held on with just some dzus fasteners and a rubber seal. It would vastly improve engine work on the front of the engine. I didnt do it because I used platinum plugs which never needed replaced anyway. Ive heard some people say they just unfastened the dogbone and tilted the engine down for easier access. I just ended up using the right combination of ratchet, and socket, to get them in/out. Fortunately I never had one frozen in or broken.
Do you really think that going through all that trouble would be easier than say... temporarily removing the rear decklid to gain added access?
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