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Car wont go into gear by painandgain99
Started on: 11-27-2015 10:49 PM
Replies: 215 (3465 views)
Last post by: andreww on 02-21-2017 04:32 PM
painandgain99
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Report this Post12-03-2015 04:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My father said we wont be able to change the fluids until tomorrow or the next day. In the meantime, i fixed the egr tube heat blanket and replaced the IAC. Before the idle was 2000, now with the new ones its like a steady 2500... tried drivinf at a steady speed and RPM for a minute as suggested. Didnt correct itself. Not sure if i should put the old one back in...

But ill update once i change tranny fluid

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Report this Post12-03-2015 06:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A synchronizer in a gear box is simply a form of brake. It slows the speed of one gear to the same speed as another gear before they engage one another. It synchronizes them. You can get a transmission out of sync, so to speak.

If you're replacing the transmission oil, you can get Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid at AutoZone and ORielly. Usually made by PennZoil. It takes about 2 1/2 quarts to fill the trans. Buy it at your parts store. It's less than half the price of the GM branded product, made by PennZoil.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 12-03-2015).]

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Report this Post12-03-2015 06:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Idle RPM should be around 1000. Shifting will be difficult if the Idle is 2000 or more. High idle is probably a vacuum leak...and most likely a break in the EGR tube.

edit: Get new fluids....get the idle down to 900-1000, and then see how the transmission works....ask for advice if you need it on the idle....stop trying to shift it.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 12-03-2015).]

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Report this Post12-03-2015 07:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

High idle is probably a vacuum leak...and most likely a break in the EGR tube.


I know it's difficult to keep track of all the threads that he's started, but in This one it was basically determined that the high idle speed wasn't a vacuum leak. Of course that was then. Not too sure about now.
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Report this Post12-03-2015 07:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I know it's difficult to keep track of all the threads that he's started, but in This one it was basically determined that the high idle speed wasn't a vacuum leak. Of course that was then. Not too sure about now.


OK....fine. But young Mr. Pain needs to fix the idle before he decides his transmission is toast.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-03-2015 08:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:


OK....fine. But young Mr. Pain needs to fix the idle before he decides his transmission is toast.


I just put a new idle air control in and at first it was steady around 2500, but once i put it in gear itd drop down... only that high when in neutral. But after driving it all night it was at 1000 for awhile. Now its between 1800-1000 but usually lower and deff lower than usual. I thought a vacuum leak was ruled out since it died when i put my finger on the IAC port. Theres a little lever on the TPS and when i push it down, the idle drops. I think ill replace the TPS and see if its thats. Im doing the oil and trans fluid and brake pads saturday.

I drove the car a few miles to my friends today and back, and it drove fine. I think i figured it out. It only locks up first gear if i try to put it in while rolling still. Every stop tonight i came to a complete stop and waited a moment, and it went into gear fine (had to put it into second first a few times, but its always been like that) would like to thank everyone for their help and all of the patience you all have for my young soul. Im trying to keep the fiero alive and you all have to remember, it has t be passed on to the next generation if thats going to happen. Im learning alot about it. Spoke to a very nice member on the phone today, rand. Very generous man.

If anyone has any additional comments or suggestions they are much appreciated

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Jason88Notchie
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Report this Post12-03-2015 08:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just a question, so please don't take offense. Has anyone ever taught you how to drive a stick?
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-03-2015 08:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jason88Notchie:

Just a question, so please don't take offense. Has anyone ever taught you how to drive a stick?


Hahahaha. Yes. I insisted my first car was stick shift. Ive had alot of practice. Until the fiero though, ive never driven it regularly. But its instinct now. Ive never stalled the fiero. Over-revved a bit when i first got it but im fine with her now. Im more comfortable driving stick than I am automatic, i pay alot more attention to whats going on.

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Report this Post12-03-2015 10:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just saying, but the IAC has a whole procedure for replacement, I believe. Did you just replace it, or did you follow the procedure?

It almost sounds like the clutch is loose..and someone is unfamiliar with driving a manual. Many 80's cars have the synchros in first. If you're going too fast, the engine will rev to let you shift into first. I remember someone doing this on an entrance ramp to the highway, instead of shifting into third.
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Report this Post12-03-2015 10:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Focus on one thing at a time. Resolve the idle issue, then move on to the next. This is what you do when you work on cars. Have an issue, fix it. Then move on to the next. This is common sense. Lets get some stuff resolved instead of a bunch of open threads and problems that never get resolved. Ok? It will save us some monitors.
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-03-2015 11:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:

Just saying, but the IAC has a whole procedure for replacement, I believe. Did you just replace it, or did you follow the procedure?

It almost sounds like the clutch is loose..and someone is unfamiliar with driving a manual. Many 80's cars have the synchros in first. If you're going too fast, the engine will rev to let you shift into first. I remember someone doing this on an entrance ramp to the highway, instead of shifting into third.


I replaced the IAC when the car was off, then started it, let it idle, and drove it at 30-35mph at a steady pace. I thought this was the procedure? If there was anything else i shouldve done, please inform me.

And ive driven with a few very experienced manual drivers who drive strictly manual cars. They are the ones who taught me, and have no bad comments on my driving fyi.
 
quote
Originally posted by Jason88Notchie:

Focus on one thing at a time. Resolve the idle issue, then move on to the next. This is what you do when you work on cars. Have an issue, fix it. Then move on to the next. This is common sense. Lets get some stuff resolved instead of a bunch of open threads and problems that never get resolved. Ok? It will save us some monitors.


alright alright. I apologize. Just try to understand i have not alot of money at the moment, and my parents agreed to let me get this car only if i took all of the problems as my responsibility. Im trying to tackle the most important things first. I dont want to do anything im not supposed to. For now, the idle isnt awfully high and ill keep trying to correct it even better. Also, i think i got the hang of driving it a way so the gears wont lock up. So unless you all think itll cause harm, i need to drive this car to commute my next job. Few miles a day.

The only other problems are the temperature not reading high enough (110-120) and the oil pressure gag bouncing around, which i was told was probably a sensor and ill be replacing it.

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Report this Post12-04-2015 12:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

The only other problems are the temperature not reading high enough (110-120)...


I don't remember and I don't feel like going through all your other threads... You've checked to make sure there's a functioning thermostat installed, right? Hopefully a 195°F one?

If you have no thermostat or one that's stuck open, that could certainly explain your high idle.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-04-2015).]

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Report this Post12-04-2015 05:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sounds right for the IAC. The oil gauge is probably the sending unit. If not leaking, not necessarily a rush.
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Report this Post12-04-2015 10:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I don't remember and I don't feel like going through all your other threads... You've checked to make sure there's a functioning thermostat installed, right? Hopefully a 195°F one?

If you have no thermostat or one that's stuck open, that could certainly explain your high idle.



I have not checked it because i havent driven it around long enough to the point where the temp should be higher until recently, so i never knew there was any problem. Ill check it today and see if its "stuck open"

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Report this Post12-04-2015 01:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Again, we're getting off subject of your shifting problems, but with the car at ambient temperature, when you turn on the ignition without starting, the pointer on the temp gauge should go to the 100 mark. If it doesn't, it's probably slipped on it's shaft. If it does go to the 100 mark, and the thermostat is OK, then it's probably the temp gauge sending unit. This sender doesn't affect the operation of the vehicle. It's only driver information, so just let it go for the time being and as others have said, focus on one thing at a time. You (and we) will accomplish a lot more in that manner.
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Report this Post12-04-2015 04:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry to get off topic but i will be changing the transmission fluid tomorrow, the local autozone has 2qts of penzoil synchromesh, is that enough? I tried to google it and it says the getreg 282 takes 1.9l which is about 2qts i just wanted to be positive

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Report this Post12-04-2015 06:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I finally found a manual with a capacities listing and I was incorrect for the Getrag trans. The Isuzu takes 2.7 quarts and the Getrag is shown as needing only 2.0 quarts with the 4-speeds requiring a full 3 quarts.

The procedure when changing the fluid is (cold) add the recommended amount and then check the level with the dipstick. The level should be at the COLD mark. If not add and recheck to bring to the correct level. I have owned cars with all 3 manual transmissions, and remember needing to purchase 3 quarts. Sorry for the mixup.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 12-04-2015).]

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Report this Post12-04-2015 09:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

The procedure when changing the fluid is (cold)...


Wouldn't you want to drain the tranny oil when it was hot, for better flow... especially if there's any suspicion that heavier than normal wear might've occurred internally?
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Report this Post12-04-2015 09:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

... the Getrag is shown as needing only 2.0 quarts...


My Getrag holds ~2 quarts.

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Report this Post12-04-2015 11:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Wouldn't you want to drain the tranny oil when it was hot, for better flow... especially if there's any suspicion that heavier than normal wear might've occurred internally?


Yes, you're right but I was addressing the filling, not the draining. But if you drained it in Chicago when it was cold, just leave the plug out of the trans for about a week. Two weeks if in Ontario.
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Report this Post12-04-2015 11:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Yes, you're right but I was addressing the filling, not the draining.


Aren't the two procedures normally done in rather quick succession?

 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

...if you drained it in Chicago when it was cold, just leave the plug out of the trans for about a week. Two weeks if in Ontario.


I'm so glad I live on the west coast. (A bit damp at times perhaps, but it's a very moderate climate here.)

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Report this Post12-05-2015 10:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
....if you drained it in Chicago when it was cold, just leave the plug out of the trans for about a week. Two weeks if in Ontario.


I hope that was meant as a joke...but for teenage readers, NO, you cannot drive around with your trans plug out....
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Report this Post12-05-2015 01:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It was a joke and I wasn't suggesting driving around with the plug out. I know that if he did that he might get dirt in the tranny.

JEEZ! now-a-days you can't say anything unless you cover all the possibilities. BTW, I also forgot to tell him to put the car up on jack stands and block the wheels and don't try to start it with the wheel suspended and, and, and........
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Report this Post12-05-2015 02:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
BTW, I also forgot to tell him to put the car up on jack stands and block the wheels and don't try to start it with the wheel suspended and, and, and........


good point. You may want to mention those in this particular thread....
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Report this Post12-05-2015 10:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:


good point. You may want to mention those in this particular thread....


You guys act like im a complete idiot... pfff. I jacked it up, put a floor jack under the trunk and that did the trick. Bend it a bit but owell. Jk. I jacked it properly and and wheel stops and and everything. Got the oil changed, tranny fluid changed, put a new thermostat in and new fromt brake pads. Its shifting fine now, theres a trick to it. I put 150 miles on it in 2 days. Havent had a problem..

On t the next problem. Its idling great right now, once t warms up its around 1000rpm. But when it fluctuates a bit, and gets lower than 1000, the oil light comes on and theres a squeel (i assume the belt) ill try doing the oil pressure sending unit if any of you suggest thats the problem. Since the nee thermostat, the temp is usually between 100 and 220, right in the middle. Heats up a little more if im not moving that much.

Also, i couldnt do the rear brakes, i couldnt collapse the calliper enough to get the pads in and have them fit... so im just curious if anyone thinks this is he calliper needing to be rebuilt or something along those lines, or if i need different brake pads... front ones went right on.


Sorry to ask 2 questions, just thought id throw them both out there. Thank you everyone i am extremely grateful for all of your help.

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Report this Post12-05-2015 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

i couldnt do the rear brakes, i couldnt collapse the calliper enough to get the pads in and have them fit


Did you remove the parking brake lever from its shaft on the caliper? That shaft has to be able to spin freely when the piston is being compressed.

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Report this Post12-05-2015 11:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I didn't think you were an idiot. That's why I didn't tell you not to drive it. I was just using the jacking procedure as an example of how technically, grammatically, and politically correct this forum tries to hold people.

The rear brake calipers don't compress in the same manner as the front because they have the emergency brake lever and adjuster The adjuster screw that the Ebrake lever attaches to has to be free to rotate as you compress the piston, else you'll damage them. Where this article refers to removing the Ebrake cable, it requires removing the Ebrake lever from the back of the caliper.
http://www.calgaryfieros.co.../brake-calipers.html

You can get the GM piston tool for retracting without removing the lever from your local parts store. Looks like this: http://www.fierostore.com/P...px?s=58600&d=202&p=1

Edited: Didn't mean to duplicate you Patrick. You posted while I was gathering up the links and making a cup of coffee.

Also see the CarQuest Rear Caliper Adjustment Procedure article here:
http://gafiero.org/docs.shtml

You can test the accuracy of the gauge by turning off your heater and AC and letting it sit and idle until the front cooling fan kicks on. When it does, look at the temp gauge to see if it's in the 235 degree range. As I previously noted, the gauge should sit ~100 when the ignition is on and the engine is cold. If it does sit at~100 and your fan kicks on well below the 235 mark, then you can progress to the sending unit.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 12-05-2015).]

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Report this Post12-06-2015 02:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Edited: Didn't mean to duplicate you Patrick. You posted while I was gathering up the links and making a cup of coffee.


Heh heh... Charlie, don't worry about it.

I'm glad what you posted agrees with what I said. Makes me feel more confident that I know what I'm talking about.
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Report this Post12-06-2015 08:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
...or maybe neither of us do.
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Report this Post12-06-2015 04:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here is a video of the oil light coming on when the rpms get low and of the oil gage. Just to give you guys an idea of whats going on

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Report this Post12-06-2015 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It could be the gauge or the sending unit. Start with the piece that's probably cheaper and most definitely more readily available. The sending unit. They look like this:


Before you begin to remove the old one, it's easiest if you remove the battery. I use an 8 inch adjustable to hold the square part you can see at the end of the tube. It's the part the sender screws into. If you don't hold it with a wrench, you could break it loose from the tube then you've got other part and problems to fix.

Use the new sending unit to determine what size open end wrench is needed to fit the nut, just above the threaded area. I believe it might be a 9/16". Remove the old sender then start the new sender with your hand. No need for thread sealers. Most senders come with a thread sealer already painted onto the threads. Don't be tempted to use channel lock pliers on the main body. It's plastic and will probably destroy the sender.

Once you have it hand tight, use your two wrenches to finish tightening. Depending upon present funds, you might consider getting a small mechanical oil gauge to use as a test gauge. They usually come with a flexible nylon pressure tube so you can screw it into the top of the metal tube to get a true reading of your oil pressure that you can use to determine if your gauge is reading correctly. I've been using one like this for years to check oil pressure.
http://shop.advanceautopart...=oil+%26+fuel+gauges
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Report this Post12-09-2015 02:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Still have not fixed the oil pressure issue, but im ordering the sending unit tonight. Now i was driving (a little faster than i shoud have been) only around 80mph. And i noticed the service engine light came on. I checked the codes and i have the codes 32 and 33. I searched and this means something to do with the egr and low/unstablw idle. Just wondering where to go from here if any of you have any input. Im getting 65$ today so i can order an egr tube if you think thats the problem and still have enough for the oil sending unit. Also, sort of a ticking noise coming from the engine now :/ im not sure when the light came on or if it was when i was just driving. Just when i was going fast i looked down to see if any lights were on and that one was

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87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old
My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos

[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 12-09-2015).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post12-09-2015 02:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Im getting 65$ today so i can order an egr tube...


If your EGR tube doesn't leak, why would you replace it?
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Report this Post12-09-2015 02:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

If your EGR tube doesn't leak, why would you replace it?


Well patrick, if before it did not leak, and i did not have an egr related check engine light. Perhaps that i do have the engine light, it now leaks lol. It was just a suggestion. Now that im driving it the service engine light is not kn but i am still getting those codes. Does that mean it was only temporary or something
Also i now see it looks as something sprayed onto my air intake hose. Right next to the egr....
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87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old
My IG for daily motivation: Alpha_Photos

[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 12-09-2015).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post12-09-2015 03:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Perhaps that i do have the engine light, it now leaks...


But I told you how to check for vacuum leaks. Right?

There is more to the EGR system than just the EGR tube. Usually a code 32 applies to the EGR solenoid. It's not a serious issue. Worry about that after you get everything else settled.
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Jason88Notchie
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Report this Post12-09-2015 03:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Have you changed the fluids yet?
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painandgain99
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Report this Post12-09-2015 05:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jason88Notchie:

Have you changed the fluids yet?


Everything except coolant

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87' GT 5 speed 😤 16 years old
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Report this Post12-09-2015 05:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

But I told you how to check for vacuum leaks. Right?

There is more to the EGR system than just the EGR tube. Usually a code 32 applies to the EGR solenoid. It's not a serious issue. Worry about that after you get everything else settled.


Thank you ill see how to check the solenoid. And actually youre the one who told me the car dying while covering the iac port rules out a vacuum leak

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Report this Post12-09-2015 07:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

And actually youre the one who told me the car dying while covering the iac port rules out a vacuum leak


Yes, it was. And your point is?

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

In the image above you can see the IAC port. Cover that hole with your thumb when the engine is idling high. If the RPMs drop a lot, then it would appear that perhaps the IAC valve is sticking open. If the RPMs don't drop, I'd suspect a vacuum leak.


 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

When idle was at 2000, i put my finger on the hole (no pun intended) and the rpms dropped, and then the car died. I tried it several times and once after the car warmed up. All the same results.


 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

IMO, that's good news. Rules out a vacuum leak.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-09-2015).]

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Report this Post12-10-2015 01:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Click Here to Email painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So would it be wise to think that the ecm stored the codes because of the conditions when i was going fast? Considering te service engine light hasnt been on since. Is this something to immediately worry about

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