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One last question about my high idle by painandgain99
Started on: 11-02-2015 10:20 PM
Replies: 29 (532 views)
Last post by: painandgain99 on 11-12-2015 01:44 PM
painandgain99
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Report this Post11-02-2015 10:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So as ive talked about before, my rpms are very high. 2300 usually in idle. But it fluctuates. All of a sudden, it'll drop down to 1000. Then sometimes go back up. I very briefly held a cigarette near my EGR tube but didnt see and suction. But it was windy, will check again in a garage sooner than later. Before i fix anything ill make sure. But my question is, multiple car people (none of them fiero people, but still) have said it seems like a sensor. My brother in law said he had a similar problem in his civic hatch and it was a sensor. Just want to clear my head, does this sound like a sensor or a vacuum leak?


Also, how do i check the other lines for a leak? Other than the egr, i have no access to the lines

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Report this Post11-03-2015 12:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mrfieroSend a Private Message to mrfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A broken EGR tube would have a high idle all the time....it wouldn't randomly go up & then down. So, I would say it is a sensor.....probably the IAC valve (idle air control). It's attached to the throttle body. It could also be a bad TPS (throttle position sensor) and/or a dirty throttle body.

Here's a picture showing where the various sensors are:

[This message has been edited by mrfiero (edited 11-03-2015).]

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Report this Post11-03-2015 12:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

In the image above you can see the IAC port. Cover that hole with your thumb when the engine is idling high. If the RPMs drop a lot, then it would appear that perhaps the IAC valve is sticking open. If the RPMs don't drop, I'd suspect a vacuum leak.
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Report this Post11-03-2015 01:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


In the image above you can see the IAC port. Cover that hole with your thumb when the engine is idling high. If the RPMs drop a lot, then it would appear that perhaps the IAC valve is sticking open. If the RPMs don't drop, I'd suspect a vacuum leak.


Its ok to run the car with that big rubber tube off of the plenum? And how would i be able to diagnose which sensor it would be ?

Also, my door locks are very very hard to open. The passenger can only be unlocked from the inside. Id like to fix this before winter, can anyone link me to a tutorial on how to do this?

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Report this Post11-03-2015 01:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

painandgain99

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And i have one more concern, Yesterday i couldnt get the car into 3rd gear. I pumped the clutch, and it went right in. Would bleeding the clutch get rid of these problems? Usually it goes fine into all gears, and ive never had a problem with getting into any besides first, and sometimes its hard to get out of reverse.

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Report this Post11-03-2015 01:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just fixed a 2.5L with a high idle. It was the IAC but other defective sensors like the IAT and CTS can cause it too. Check the resistance of those sensors or even tap them while the car is idling.

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[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 11-03-2015).]

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Report this Post11-03-2015 01:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Its ok to run the car with that big rubber tube off of the plenum?


I wouldn't drive around with the air filter snorkel removed (as you'd be sucking in unfiltered air and small kids), but running the engine with the snorkel taken off while diagnosing these issues is perfectly fine.
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Report this Post11-03-2015 03:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

Just fixed a 2.5L with a high idle. It was the IAC but other defective sensors like the IAT and CTS can cause it too. Check the resistance of those sensors or even tap them while the car is idling.


Was it doing things similar to mine? Rpms will go up and down for a few minutes continuesly before idling out around 2000... then itll go down to 1000. Then back up. Etc
Also, i dont know how to "tap them" or "check the resistance" is it something easy?

And patrick, or anyone, how can i remove the air snorkel?
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[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 11-03-2015).]

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Report this Post11-03-2015 03:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

And patrick, or anyone, how can i remove the air snorkel?


Have you looked at it? Basically a hose clamp at either end.

The toughest part IMO is getting the breather tube out of (and back into) the snorkel. I find that loosening the nut that holds the breather tube bracket and pushing the tube away from the snorkel helps a lot. And then put a small bit of lube in the hole for the tube in the snorkel for easier reassembly.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-03-2015).]

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Report this Post11-03-2015 03:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Have you looked at it? Basically a hose clamp at either end.

The toughest part IMO is getting the breather tube out of (and back into) the snorkel. I find that loosening the nut that holds the breather tube bracket and pushing the tube away from the snorkel helps a lot. And then put a small bit of lube in the hole for the tube in the snorkel for easier reassembly.




My apologies for asking, i figured it out before reading this. I took the clamp off of the breather tube to get it back on. These were the results of the test:

When idle was at 2000, i put my finger on the hole (no pun intended) and the rpms dropped, and then the car died. I tried it several times and once after the car warmed up. All the same results. Does this mean its the sensor?

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Report this Post11-03-2015 04:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

My apologies for asking, i figured it out before reading this...


Ummm... keep that in mind when you ask your next question.

 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

When idle was at 2000, i put my finger on the hole (no pun intended) and the rpms dropped, and then the car died. I tried it several times and once after the car warmed up. All the same results.


IMO, that's good news. Rules out a vacuum leak.

 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Does this mean its the sensor?


"the sensor"? I suspect the IAC (which isn't a sensor). It could either be failing electrically... or it and the port could be gummed up with crud. I'm not going to explain how to clean it up as this has already been explained many times in the forum.
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Report this Post11-03-2015 05:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

"the sensor"? I suspect the IAC (which isn't a sensor). It could either be failing electrically... or it and the port could be gummed up with crud. I'm not going to explain how to clean it up as this has already been explained many times in the forum.


I cant find a tutorial on how to do this, ive been searching for aj hour

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Report this Post11-03-2015 05:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

I cant find a tutorial on how to do this, ive been searching for aj hour


Seriously, This took me three seconds.

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Report this Post11-03-2015 10:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Seriously, This took me three seconds.


Sorry Patrick, have a feeling im annoying you. My internet is very messed up at the moment and it wasnt searching anything. Ill try to clean it out tomorrow and see if that does anything.

Can anyone answermy other questions? How to free up door locks and if bleeding the clutch will help it get into gear better

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Report this Post11-03-2015 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

Sorry Patrick, have a feeling im annoying you.


You've been asking a lot of questions (many of a basic nature) in regards to getting more than one ton of metal, glass and plastic going down the road at potentially more than 100 MPH. When I see that you've spent "an hour" unsuccessfully searching to find readily available info on cleaning an IAC valve... I'm concerned. I'm concerned that you've bitten off more than you're capable of handling, and that you'll be putting yourself and others at risk. There's an awful lot that can go wrong on a car, even on one that's being maintained by an experienced mechanic... such as happened Here with my friend, Bill.

So no, I'm not so much annoyed as very apprehensive.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-03-2015).]

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Report this Post11-03-2015 11:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

You've been asking a lot of questions (many of a basic nature) in regards to getting more than one ton of metal, glass and plastic going down the road at potentially more than 100 MPH. When I see that you've spent "an hour" unsuccessfully searching to find readily available info on cleaning an IAC valve... I'm concerned. I'm concerned that you've bitten off more than you're capable of handling, and that you'll be putting yourself and others at risk. There's an awful lot that can go wrong on a car, even on one that's being maintained by an experienced mechanic... such as happened Here with my friend, Bill.

So no, I'm not so much annoyed as very apprehensive.



I understand and I apologize. I dont want to get on bad terms with anyone here, especially you. The reason im asking alot of questions instead of searching is I want to make sure my problems are what i think they are andthat they get taken care of appropriately. This car wont be abused, it will be babied. As it has to get me to work and school for the next couple of years. I want to make sure its reliable.

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Report this Post11-03-2015 11:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

I understand and I apologize. I dont want to get on bad terms with anyone here, especially you.


Apologies aren't necessary. This has got nothing to do with "bad terms". You sound like a nice kid, but you're so green!

If you do something wrong while working on a computer and it crashes, that's no big deal. However, if while working on your car you have the same outcome... that's serious business! I just don't know if you're honestly able to appreciate what you're up against. Relying exclusively on an internet forum to resurrect a car when you have no basic mechanical knowledge doesn't cut it IMO. You need someone there (who knows what they're doing) looking over your shoulder.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-03-2015).]

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Report this Post11-04-2015 01:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Apologies aren't necessary. This has got nothing to do with "bad terms". You sound like a nice kid, but you're so green!

If you do something wrong while working on a computer and it crashes, that's no big deal. However, if while working on your car you have the same outcome... that's serious business! I just don't know if you're honestly able to appreciate what you're up against. Relying exclusively on an internet forum to resurrect a car when you have no basic mechanical knowledge doesn't cut it IMO. You need someone there (who knows what they're doing) looking over your shoulder.



I agree 100%. Im not going to do anything too serious by myself, just trying to get the easy things im capable of fixing, done on my own. I appreciate your generosity on all of my posts and i appreciate all of your good advice sir.

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Report this Post11-04-2015 05:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AustralianClick Here to visit Australian's HomePageSend a Private Message to AustralianEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If the throttle inner cable is freyed it will happen in hardest to reach spot there is break in cable underneath where gear stick lever is where exposed inner cable goes between a 2 inch gap if it is going to frey in cable it will be there in hidden spot.

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Report this Post11-04-2015 12:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I got the IAC off, i cleaned where it plugs in and the little hole i was instructed to cover with my thumb to check if the idle drops(iac port). I cant figure out how to clean the IAC itself, it doesnt seem to come apart. Its just a little plug with a spring/pin on the end. Everythint ive read speaks about cleaning the inside of it i thought?


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[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 11-04-2015).]

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Report this Post11-04-2015 01:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:


I agree 100%. Im not going to do anything too serious by myself, just trying to get the easy things im capable of fixing, done on my own. I appreciate your generosity on all of my posts and i appreciate all of your good advice sir.




I am seriously impressed by your manors and respect. You listen and and have humility. You'll be alright. I'm glad you realize where Pat is coming from on this. You'll learn. We all started somewhere.
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Report this Post11-04-2015 01:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

I got the IAC off, i cleaned where it plugs in and the little hole i was instructed to cover with my thumb to check if the idle drops(iac port). I cant figure out how to clean the IAC itself, it doesnt seem to come apart. Its just a little plug with a spring/pin on the end. Everythint ive read speaks about cleaning the inside of it i thought?



I would buy a new one. They are pretty cheap and it will save you from this...
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Report this Post11-04-2015 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jason88Notchie:


I would buy a new one. They are pretty cheap and it will save you from this...


Keep in mind i dont make very much money at the moment, im buying a steering column next week and cant get anything else for awhile. So for now i want to try to clean this iac. Note, the spring and pin on the iac wont retract, not sure if theyre supposed to. I unplugged the battery cables before removing the iac, i read something about plugging the iac in whilethe engine was running and it was removed but the post was unclear. Am i supposed to take apart the iac to clean the inside?

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Report this Post11-04-2015 03:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by painandgain99:

I cant figure out how to clean the IAC itself, it doesnt seem to come apart. Its just a little plug with a spring/pin on the end. Everythint ive read speaks about cleaning the inside of it i thought?


Please quote and post where you've read that the valve needs to come apart.
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Report this Post11-04-2015 03:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Check Rock Auto. You can pick up an IAC for less than 20 bucks.
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Report this Post11-04-2015 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the help guys, i cleaned out the IAC and the IAC port, cleanes out the throttle body. Its a bit more responsive now, but still idles at around 1500 now. Next would it be a good choice to replace some sensors? Or try to find someone who has a scanner tool to see if theres any codes popping up? I get my license in 2 weeks so im very excited to start driving this gem!

Also, the whole engine area is gunked up with thick, thick greasy dirt and soot. I was amazed when i wiped something off today to find it was chrome. I'd like to clean all the gunk off (unless thats a bad idea) i just dont know what can and cant get wet. It has to have a few good pounds of dirt.


Thanks for the help everyone and sorry for more questions, hope youre all having a good night and god bless

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Report this Post11-11-2015 08:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Update, have not replaced any sensors yet. I got a scan tool but it was for OBD2. But my engine isnt giving me any codes.... its idle still is fluctuating. And rather high usually. When it does get low(around 700-500) the car starts shaking pretty badly. Then the rpms will shoot back up, and the belt usually squeels when this happens. Today i cought a glimpse of the service engine light when the rpms were going up. Since the rpms are high and then low, i figured maybe a sensor has a bad connection? Does anyone have an idea of what sensors i should replace first? Also, when the rpms get low and the car shakes, the lights kind of dim aswell and the dash lights... any help would be appreciated guys

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Report this Post11-12-2015 12:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just to be clear.....Scanner tool is not required to read codes. The light need not be on to retain codes.

//www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?ECMCodes

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 11-12-2015).]

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Report this Post11-12-2015 01:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just curious how much you spent on said "scan tool", considering you couldn't spend the money you had for an IAC valve which hasn't been ruled out yet.
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Report this Post11-12-2015 01:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for painandgain99Send a Private Message to painandgain99Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jason88Notchie:

Just curious how much you spent on said "scan tool", considering you couldn't spend the money you had for an IAC valve which hasn't been ruled out yet.


I had 25$ amazon credit and i got a scan tool not for the codes (which i had already checked with a paper clip) but it displays the real time rpms, speed, hp, temps and things like that. But i got it refunded because its for obd2.

I checked the codes and had none except for code 12 which is normal.

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