Dropped the cradle to change some clutch parts, found that the clutch fork was bent and the release lever has cracks in it. New parts installed, along with a new throwout bearing, and was getting stuff hooked back up when I had to stop for the day. Back on it tomorrow. If this doesn't fix my clutch, then I don't know what will. So far I've replaced the master, slave, clutch pedal, throwout bearing, release arm, clutch fork, pressure plate, friction disk, had the flywheel resurfaced...
Tightened all connections for brake plumbing; routed flex hoses and secured, carefully raising and lowering wheels with a jack to riding position to confirm we won't have any pulls, rubs or binds. Lost R-R bracket for hose-to-line connection but was able to find one at a yard (for one of the fronts but close-enough). Also cut new wheel well splash guards out of a rubber carpet I salvaged from work; sprayed edges and back with black plasti-dip to prevent fraying. Bleeding and adjusting rears tomorrow, and then testing next week so-long as we have no leaks.
Also pulled interior b-pillar panels from the yard car; my rear speaker covers rattle (tried to pry them off LONG ago in an idiot-move) so once these are cleaned-up they will go in sometime.
Bled and installed master, started pumping fluid through system. Found and tightened a leak at rear proportioning valve and that should be it. Tried to bleed calipers but I can't get the el-cheapo vacuum pump to hold vacuum due to crappy attachments. Had to get a piece of clear tubing because the one that came with it was black and the clear one's a smidge too big, I think.
Close up of complete intakes. Well, at least as complete as I'm making them
This was my first time trying to polish aluminum. It didn't turn out quite how I imagined (a perfect mirror), but I'm happy. The intakes were much more difficult- there was substantially more little pits and voids...almost like they were cast from a different grade of aluminum. I'd give myself about a 6.5/10 on this.
I used a random orbital sander with grits from 80-2000. I initially tried to use 220 to take off the powder coat, but that was just a waste of time and sanding discs. Mother's polish and a disc buffing wheel on a drill to finish up. Rubbed out with microfiber towels. About 3.5 hours, all-in.
Finally put it on the ground and got to drive it hard tonight to test the brakes. Drove it hard around some corners and hit the brakes hard a bunch of times: quiet, no pulling, no vibrations, locks the seatbelts up (first time it's done so in the 8 years I've owned it) and it stops a hell of alot quicker than before. Damn I missed that car!
The bad news is that I probably have a bad MC out of the box because there is brake fluid slowly seeping out of the rear reservoir gasket; and at F-L I found a rub spot for the hose against the A-arm but I've already corrected it. Beyond swapping the MC again I'll just be monitoring everything as I move into the next project: oil leak.
[This message has been edited by jonrev (edited 04-30-2015).]
New tires on the rear. P215/70R 14. Speedo off by about 1mph at 60mph, (GPS). Have to replace all the front control arm bushings. Got the parts, just need the time. Then new front tires and alignment. New plugs & wires.
Listened to my daughter tell me about the odd behavior and sounds it was making. Got home to take a look and noticed a perfect line of leaked fluid down our 100+ foot driveway. Started it, pulled it out of the garage, and looked underneath to see fluid running out of it (not dripping). Rolled it away from the large puddle to observe that it was red and oily. Barely made it to the tranny shop as the transmission was starting to slip. They called in the afternoon to tell me it was just a worn-through cooling tube. $200 is much better than a tranny rebuild. Now I have some cleanup work to do on the underside of the car.
New tires to replace the bad ones that came with the car. Dropped the rear diameter by an inch and front just a little, now the car is just about level taking some stress off of the front. Now the tires don't rub and man does it ride better.
What is that thing that looks like a scratch on the left fender? Why are there so many broken LF side markers?
Looks like a street light reflection to me.
Mine was busted on the right. Wifey cut too hard coming out of the garage in 1993 and knocked a chunk of molding off and a complete whole in the fender.
Oh, to be on-topic, today I picked up the refurbed snowflake wheels and took them to Costco to get the tires swapped onto them. Costco condemned my tires (9 years old but less than 15k miles) and they didn't have set to sell me, so off to a very friendly Les Schwab store. $40 swap turned into $600 in tires. Owie, but progress. Will post some pics when I get the new center caps next week.
I recovered a headliner board and finally installed it in the car today. I did this same project a year ago but used my old board which had a lot of cracks and peeling areas. I had tried to patch it with fiberglass mat and resin but unfortunately everywhere I fixed it was still visible through the new headliner fabric. In my naivety I'd assumed the new fabric would hide it all! Evidently not. Plus I wrinkled the fabric by making it too loose when I glued it into the head wells. So after a year of watching the junkyards I finally found a nicer headliner boards and I recovered it a couple weeks ago. This time I made sure the few repairs I did need to do were nice and smooth! Looks much better.