I was able to score some parts I was needing from MstangsBware in North Texas today. Transmission, and exhaust system, CV axle: Whole 87 GT engine w/ starter and alternator, etc: and I got my air breather rubber intake hose, from Matt, and a V6 Automatic ECM, from Katatak, in the mail today. I have a few things to do next week now!!
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-22-2011).]
So Joe, say you didn't have to buy the 2.8... About how much are you looking at spending on this all together?
Hearing about the engine being shelved since 99 makes me sort of nervous about doing this swap. I really didn't want to rebuild like this... Hopefully my swap wouldn't need all the special stuff as it will come with the 2.8 already... Just worried about the condition of the parts inside now.
Not sure. I did not post the money for the 2.8 from Poe as that is between him and me. It has every baracket and fastener I need to get the 3.4 running. I lost my 4.9 because I took a chance on a used engine. I lost the roll of the dice. I don't want to be there a second time around. So I am 'refreshing' this 3.4. The only thing I found ' IFFY " inside was the oil rings on all 6 pistons. They could have released and worked fine after a little driving around. But then again, maybe not. I just didn't want to chance having to take everything out once more. When I purchased this car two summers back there wasn't an engine & transmission in it. So back I go to square one.
The wife was very unhappy when she got home from seeing the grandchildren today. She saw the 'new items' growing in the garage once again.
If you do not need to purchase a 'Parts' engine as I did , and a transmission, as I did. Find a 3.4 that is trustworthy, you can save a bundle. -Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-24-2011).]
Not sure. I did not post the money for the 2.8 from Poe as that is between him and me. It has every baracket and fastener I need to get the 3.4 running. I lost my 4.9 because I took a chance on a used engine. I lost the roll of the dice. I don't want to be there a second time around. So I am 'refreshing' this 3.4. The only thing I found ' IFFY " inside was the oil rings on all 6 pistons. They could have released and worked fine after a little driving around. But then again, maybe not. I just didn't want to chance having to take everything out once more. When I purchased this car two summers back there wasn't an engine & transmission in it. So back I go to square one.
The wife was very unhappy when she got home from seeing the grandchildren today. She saw the 'new items' growing in the garage once again.
If you do not need to purchase a 'Parts' engine as I did , and a transmission, as I did. Find a 3.4 that is trustworthy, you can save a bundle. -Joe
I was able to remove the harmonic balancer, timing chain housing and the water pump after work this evening. I am just about to the point of finiished with the 'parts engine' I got last Friday. The rest will be cllean, paint and assemble. I have a rebuilt torque converter on the way. It will be here Monday. I will replace the converter seal and both CV axle seals before adding the converter. -Joe
I got my heads from the machine shop today, and the exhaust manifold studs came in the mail. Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets got here today also. I have a few things to do this weekend. -Joe Ordered drivers side CV shaft, and a new transmission dip stick tube seal.
Picked up my CV shaft seals for the transmission today. $7.00 each
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-28-2011).]
I backed my truck into the front half of my garage and rolled my engine to the tailgate. Sat the engine to the tailgate and removed the engine stand mount so I could have access to the rear of the block. I installed a new gasket on the rear cam cover this morning. Also put in the three expansion plugs on the rear of the block: New Timkin rear main seal: and the 88 Flex plate:
All fasteners were torqued to specs.
I cleaned the timing chain cover with gas and removed almost all of the old gaskets. It is so humid outside right now I was soaked and dripping sweat on my glasses. Time for a shower. Work cleaning parts will resume tomorrow am. I plan on installing the timing chain cover, oil pump and oil pan tomorrow.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-30-2011).]
Installed the oil pump and the oil pan this afternoon with a new Fel-Pro blue rubber Perma dry gasket. All fasteners were torqued to specs. I will add the heads tomorrow after work.
I am ready to put the heads back on my 3.4. I have new head bolts for both heads.
My Haynes manual says for a 2.8 to torque to 65 to 90 Ft Lbs. Quite a spread between these two numbers.
My Chilton says for a 2.8, to torque in three steps to 65-90 ft lbs.
My 88 FSM says for a 2.8, 66 ft lbs.
I have a friend who has a AllData account, and it says for a 3.4, torque to 41 ft lbs PLUS 90 degrees.
Any body have the the correct information? My friend with the AllDate info just called me back and told me that the head bolt package 'Might' have additional information. Nothing in the Victor Reinz box but headbolts.
Anybody know the correct information for this. I am gonna get the heads on today, but stop at torquing them tight until more information is forthcoming. Confused
Got my drivers side CV shaft offo of the FedEx trucak today. I went and got me a new bottle of Perma-Tex Form-A-Gasket. Heads back on tomorrow Waiting on new Napa water pump from Mattwa.
Got my drivers side CV shaft offo of the FedEx trucak today. I went and got me a new bottle of Perma-Tex Form-A-Gasket. Heads back on tomorrow Waiting on new Napa water pump from Mattwa.
I went to the garage and cleaned the block head faces, and the bottom of both heads. New PermaTorque head gaskets, then put both heads on the block. I got my new head gaskets out and , it is short of bolts needed for one head. Looked them up and sure enough, it was just enough for one head. New full set of Fel-Pro head bolts will be here tomorrow.
Picked up my Fel-Pro head bolts and used some of the Perma-Tex in the white bottle with the little brush on all threads. Except the one stud that came with some type of white stuff on the threads. All torqued down to spec.
Cleaned the two valve covers and lower intake. I will now be able to make some progress with adding accessories to the engine now. Maybe a picture tomorrow.
-Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-05-2011).]
Water pump arrived today. I am planning on installing it tomorrow, and adding the valve train to the engine. Husband-ly chores are also being forced on me this weekend. -Joe
Got a few things done this morning. Cleaned all of the water pump bolts and inserted them into their proper holes. Added the rocker arms along with its two other pieces. Tightened down the adjuster nut until the stud was at the top of the nut. Marked the 3.4 balancer with the 2.8 timing mark. I used red paint for the timing mark, as the rest of it will be silver. Baking in the hot Texas sun before the silver is added. A few photos for your enjoyment.
Today I removed the timing chain cover to extract a broken off bolt that I thought was a alignment stud for the water pump. I have an extra timing cover gasket, but have already torqued down the oil pan to the Perma-Dry pan gasket. I am afraid to use the gasket again. Will get a new one tomorrow so I can close up the bottom end again. What's $22.00 compared to an oil leak? I want to check the cam gear and make sure I torqued it down. Easy to do right now as it is.
Oil pan removed and the timing cover was cleaned up again and remounted. Installed the new oil pan gasket. Cleaned and painted all brackets today. Cleaned and painted both pulleys. Also located and cleaned all the bolts that hold on the water pump and the timing chain cover. New gaskets used on both. Got the harmonic damper installed. Used the last of my expansion plugs to plug up the cam sensor hole in the front of the block. Set the lower intake on the heads to see how close to the block the center part is. I need to prime the oil system and stab the distributor before I mount the lower intake for the last time. I hope to mate the engine and transmission before next weekend.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-15-2011).]
If you think you will EVER put a turbo on the engine put a oil return boss in the oil pan now and plug it with a screw in plug. It's a whole lot easier to deal with now than later while it's in the car.
If you think you will EVER put a turbo on the engine put a oil return boss in the oil pan now and plug it with a screw in plug. It's a whole lot easier to deal with now than later while it's in the car.
Ain't gonna happen. I just want it back on the road again. Thanks for the tip though.
I was cleaning assorted parts and a few bolts today and came across this bolt. The flash changed the color a bit, as it is a silver bolt with the fancy head.: I don't remember removing this bolt. This is a 10mm bolt, with a shank of 2 3/4" long. Looks like it had a sealer on the lower end of the threads.
Anybody got a clue?
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-16-2011).]
Removed the angle iron on the forward part of the cradle that I had welded on for the 4.9 engine mount behind the AC compressor. Installed the two CV shaft seals and the converter seal. Sat the transmission onto the cradle. I used my two transmission mounts that I had purchased new for the 4.9 install. About 1500 miles. Might get the engine on the transmission and cradle tomorrow.
Getting tired of cleaning parts. These 2.8's and T125C transmissions were oil leaking SOBs. Every thing was filthy.
I got my metal PVC pipe in the mail today that goes from the forward Valve Cover to the rubber intake hose
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-21-2011).]
Spent the morning cleaning and painting. The transmission was filthy from top to bottom. I need to grind off the rear corner of the engine for the automatic transmission to mount up before I try to put them togeather. Maybe I can get that done tomorrorw.
I took a piece of cardboard and made me a tracing of this corner of the 2.8. When using an automatic with this 3.4, this corner of the block must be modified.
I finished the block painting yesterday after work. Silver to make it easy to locate leaks of coolant or motor oil. I loosened up the rockers and set the valve lash again just to make sure that the lash was correct before adding the intake and the distributor.
Removed the tape off of the oil filter and filled it with oil to soak the filter element wit clean oil. Poured the excess oil onto the camshaft and added 4 more quarts in to the valley. I then put a 1/4" extension into my drill and put an 8mm socket on the end . Added some tape for insurance and started the oil priming of the engine. Pretty quickly I had the first two rockers (# 6) leaking oil over the tops. I had to put rags around the valve springs to keep from getting oil onto my garage floor.
After adding the rags I finished oiling all of the rockers with the drill
I need to drill out the one hole on the alternator side of the block. It is threaded, and needs to be drilled out so a bolt can thread into the transmission there. This is the hole I need to drill out. I have a bolt threaded into it for the engine stand.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-28-2011).]
Did a dance of the old Fiero Two Step this morning. One step forward , and two or three backwards. I got the engine and the transmission bolted up. I had checked the torque converter several times as I was tightening down the transmission bolts. Didn't want to jam the converter. When I had them all tightened up, I reached in to make sure the converter was still free spinning. NO WAY , JOSE. I tried every thing I could think of to get it free, even moving the engine about 1/4" away from the transmission face. Still jammed up. Put everything away and came in the house to cool off. There it sits!!!
Well I was able to remove the engine from the transmission today. I found the converter still on the flywheel. I almost $hit!!!. I never expected this as there were no bolts holding the converter on the flex plate. I had to pry it off of the engine. Measured it the nose of the converter. It measured .824". as it was supposed to be. I called the transmission shop where I got the converter, and they were able to give me a measurement.I had already put the engine back on the engine stand, so I could just barely see inside the pilot hole in the crankshaft. RUSTY , big time. I will remove the rust tomorrow with my Dremel Tool, and see what gives.
Took the engine off of the stand this afternoon and cleaned out the pilot hole in the end of the crankshaft. All is well in the world again. I am gonna put the engine and transmission back together tomorrow AM.
I got the new rubber pieces that hold the PCV valve and the air tube in the forward valve cover in today's mail. Also picked up a new distributor rotor this morning.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-03-2011).]
reading through your build thread alst night has given me some much needed motivation for my 3400 swap project since i havnt touched it in about a month.. today i pulled the rust free engine cradle from the weeds and tomorrow morning i'm heading to my dads to borrow his pressure washer so i can get it cleaned up and painted also going to clean and paint the trans tomorrow..thanks!!!
