I was doing 70 at 2000rpm in my 2.8. Weird thing about mine is that occassionally at a dead stop, my speedometer rises to various speeds then drops down to 3-4 mph, where it has been sitting with the motor running at a dead stop (and even off completely). Once I get around to replacing the center console, I'll check for some bad connections on the VSS unit. Have you had any occurrences of this?
I was doing 70 at 2000rpm in my 2.8. Weird thing about mine is that occassionally at a dead stop, my speedometer rises to various speeds then drops down to 3-4 mph, where it has been sitting with the motor running at a dead stop (and even off completely). Once I get around to replacing the center console, I'll check for some bad connections on the VSS unit. Have you had any occurrences of this?
- Lou
This is one of the very few niggly little problems with my build from Archie. The speedo will be fine while driving - but when idling at a light etc - it might start jumping around between 0-40kpm. If the turn signal is on then it jumps much less. Archie knew this problem was there when I picked it up and they spent a few hours trying to isolate it - without any success. It's well grounded and everything - but must be some other interference. Funny how at a dead stop I can rack up a kilometer or two while waiting for the light to change. Makes my MPG even better. =87)
Forgot to add that Archie adds a Dakota Digital converter on his swaps - eslpecially for the newr 6 speeds and it output 64k pulses versus the 4k the older tranny's output. Don't quote me on the numbers - but I think my memory is correct...
First of all congratulations on that very sweet car!!
For the exhaust, it looks like you just have to small cats, is that right?
Have fun with that mean machine!
Yes and No. I have two small cats - one for each bank - and the tips of the exhaust are actually the mufflers. Two each side - about 5" long. Look at the pictures where the TAZ is on a lift and the shot is of the rear of the car. The mufflers have a yellow band (1/8"wide) about four inches in from the tip end.
I don't know what brand they are - (Archie can tell you) but they work OK at low throttle and low torqure. They are fabulous in high RPM and open throttle -- like BRAAAAWWWWWWWWWW!
Radio isn't as good as it was - or at least I can't hear it as well as I used to - wonder why?!! =8^)
When my buddy followed me in his Solstice on the trek to London he said HE couldn't hear HIS radio!!
From the driver's seat it isn't that bad - but I now look for underpasses or tunnels where I love to open it up - and coast when passing a blueberry!
Thanks for the info. I'm not sure how loud i want my car to be. Aparently the cops in this area have recently had high speed chase training so they are pretty pschyed up to use this new knowledge. I'm considering going with a bypass instead.
They may be monza resonated tips. I have the same thing, quiet at idle, nasty at wot. Best 40 bucks i ever spent.
------------------ 1986 GT, LT1/4T60E. In the middle of cam/port, new interior, paint and waiting on new wheels. Itll blow you away!! http://hometown.aol.com/ptfiero/index.html build http://dtcc.cz28.com/Customer/LT1Fiero/index.htm
They may be monza resonated tips. I have the same thing, quiet at idle, nasty at wot. Best 40 bucks i ever spent.
------------------ 1986 GT, LT1/4T60E. In the middle of cam/port, new interior, paint and waiting on new wheels. Itll blow you away!! http://hometown.aol.com/ptfiero/index.html build http://dtcc.cz28.com/Customer/LT1Fiero/index.htm
If they are yellow in the end then yes, they will be Monzas that Archie uses. The last time I ordered parts from him, he shipped them in Monza boxes...
Monza, Smonza. All I know is you can't get out of the car after driving it without a woody!
Seriously though - they are perfect. They're a good balance of volume and performance - I call it an engine in harmony!
I have a Harley with slip-ons and it's louder than the Fiero. My neighbours at the trailer park where I live do know it's me when I get within a 1/2 mile of the park. They said the tone is very unique and not anoying like the garbage can slip on's that the ricers use. Basically the car sounds like it means business because it can.
My neighbours at the trailer park where I live do know it's me when I get within a 1/2 mile of the park. They said the tone is very unique and not anoying like the garbage can slip on's that the ricers use. Basically the car sounds like it means business because it can.
=8^0
Like the guy who host's the T.V. show "Fear Factor" once said about the sound of his car, "It sound's like WAR." If it does, then your car means "business" hehe.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-28-2006).]
I was going to do my final write up, but ran into a few problems that need to be taken care of first.
I ran the Top Cog belt with the addition of the thrid pulley (for alternator) for two days. It seemed like everything was going well until I lost voltage again.
It's a long story - but the belt was still on - alternator is fried!
I also had a weird thing happen when I started up the TAZ to see if the pulley was seize. The ignition stayed on - but the pinion gear was not "out". I took the keys out ofthe ignition and the starter still ran - non-stop until I had to pull the battery connection.
Anyway - I know how to remove an reinstall the starter now! The starter was OK - seems like my ignition is a little loose.
Should pick up a rebuilt alternator today or early this week.
Will post a final note for the entire build once I've got this running smoothly for a few days...
Yahh - it's been a while! I'm waiting for a solenoid to come from Archie. I'm having the luck of an Irishman with getting the "bugs" out. The alternator fried (thank GOD for that!)- and I've had lots of weird problems with the starter. I picked up a rebuilt alternator from NAPA and with the top cog belt (153888) I have kept the belt on for the last week. Looks like it might have been the alternator all along - throwing the belt.
I'm not confident driving it anywhere - as I spend most of my time driving focused on the voltmeter and expecting the to see it drop any time. Also, I cringe everytime I try to start her up as it might or might not go. I travel with a spare "jack and screwdriver" and can bypass the ignition wire to the solenoid to jump start it - but that's not a great way to do things. I think I've isolated the problem to a bad ignition wire to solenoid connection - or an intermittently bad solenoid. Hey - I'm not a mechanic so what I'm saying here is my 0.02 worth....
Not the best news - but this is a risk you take when you get stuff done a long way from home. I also don't have easy access to a mechanic as I live out in the countryside. If the system decides to fart big time - I'm kinda left up to my own to figure out the problem. All of this is good "character" building - and I can take the alternator and starter off and put it back on now in about 5 minutes flat - so I'm learning lots!!
You should have the Solenoid any time now, I sent it out more than a week ago by Post.
Your confidence will build back up soon.
Did you replace or fix your ignition switch so that it shuts off properly when you turn off the key?
The problem you had earlier with the ignition switch where it kept running the starter when it was shut off is probly what killed the Alternator. So I'd recommend replacing the ignition switch if you haven't already. The power drain from when it kept on running may also have burnt up or damaged that wire going to the spade terminal on the solenoid & might be that the problem is just damage to that wire. Need to check that out if you can. When a starter keeps on running while the switch has been turned off, it pulls a lot of power & heats up all the wires connected to it. Maybe a wire just burnt partially thru. Like I said maybe that power drain is what fried the Alternator too.
Stay in touch.
Archie
quote
Originally posted by DrCPU: Yahh - it's been a while! I'm waiting for a solenoid to come from Archie. I'm having the luck of an Irishman with getting the "bugs" out. The alternator fried (thank GOD for that!)- and I've had lots of weird problems with the starter. I picked up a rebuilt alternator from NAPA and with the top cog belt (153888) I have kept the belt on for the last week. Looks like it might have been the alternator all along - throwing the belt.
I'm not confident driving it anywhere - as I spend most of my time driving focused on the voltmeter and expecting the to see it drop any time. Also, I cringe everytime I try to start her up as it might or might not go. I travel with a spare "jack and screwdriver" and can bypass the ignition wire to the solenoid to jump start it - but that's not a great way to do things. I think I've isolated the problem to a bad ignition wire to solenoid connection - or an intermittently bad solenoid. Hey - I'm not a mechanic so what I'm saying here is my 0.02 worth....
Not the best news - but this is a risk you take when you get stuff done a long way from home. I also don't have easy access to a mechanic as I live out in the countryside. If the system decides to fart big time - I'm kinda left up to my own to figure out the problem. All of this is good "character" building - and I can take the alternator and starter off and put it back on now in about 5 minutes flat - so I'm learning lots!!
Dave
[This message has been edited by Archie (edited 07-28-2006).]
The ignition switch (at the steering wheel) seems to be OK. I did take the solenoid off the starter and cleaned it up and then put it back together, but the solenoid is not serviceable. I also tightened the ignition wire to the solenoid - as the crimp was loose. As there were a number of things going on at the same time - including a discharged battery - that it's too difficult for me to say one way or the other what the heck happened.
I'm looking forward to seeing everyone in September, and will drive the TAZ. I'll be leaving a day or two early - so if you get a call from me to come rescue me somewhere between Detroit and your shop that I hope you'll do so! (Hope you're smilling). I'm looking forward to getting my battery back as well - I hate SEARS products - long story better left to another time....
Are you passing through Detroit and take 94 over to Chicago and up? If you have a chance, take a look at the High-speed Ferry in Muskegon that goes over to Milwaukee. This makes for a relaxing 2 hour trip and cuts your time waiting in traffic. AND, I would get to see your car!!
There is also a Coal-driven Car ferry in Ludington, Michigan that ports in Manitowoc, Wisconsin.
[This message has been edited by N8YKC (edited 08-14-2006).]
..and if you are taking that route, I invite you to take a rest in Benton Harbor, too. It's in SW Michigan, and I don't live too far from I-94. I would love to see your car in person!
------------------ 86 Fiero GT -Stage eleventy billion...(pieces, that is!)
I've travelled the route to Chacago a zillion times!
On the Harley, truck and Fiero!
I did the old ferry from Ludington-Manitowoc on the Harley in '97. I now normally go through Sarnia - Port Huron - Flint - Lansing - Battle Creek - but like mixing things up. I might be leaving late afternoon Sept 5th or very early Sept 6th.
Ping me with your email phone numbers and addresses and I'll see if I can plan out a route so we can meet. Send me the web link for the ferry and I'll check it out. Need to figure out how often it runs, the cost etc.. I normally like to stop off at exit 1 (Indiana) as there is a cigar store there that sells cigars at a bargain price. Hmmm I could get some cigars shipped to NY8's - now ya got me thinking....
I've been at Archie's since Wednesday (about three days now) and will provide my final write up for the Archie "Build".
I'm no longer a "Fiberglass" virgin. Chirs - at Archie's gave me instructions and watched as I did the fiberglassing to cover the aerial hole. Actually, he fed the fiber bits and I did the dabbing and all the other work. Rob helped out with the hints on wet sanding and painting. Should have listened to him better.... but that story is to follow....
I also did the Hines Euro Tail light panel and took lots of pictures.
I'll finish of Archie's build first and will give him a "Report Card".
Then I'll just add all the other stuff I do and keep doing to the Taz - to this thread!
Hope to see lots of you at the open house - or at Fierorama.
Dave
------------------
[This message has been edited by DrCPU (edited 09-08-2006).]
OK, here is my last post for the review of the V8 Archie conversion. I've broken the scoring into a few areas and have scored them like a report card. I drove the TAZ to Rockford from Toronto. No problems - ran real good.
Initial Contact and Order - Order details and timely responses - desire to help sell old motor (A+)
I contacted Archie in August of 2005 with the idea of the suspension, big brake and tranny conversion to a Getrag 5spd. Archie provided me with an estimate. I sent him the deposit and deliverd my car to him in October of 2005. The estimated delivery data was April 2006. The engine was ordered and at Archie's when I deleiverd the car in October. Archie had helped me sell the engine and tranny which was real cool.
Ability to change Order over time (A+)
I had contacted Archie several times over the winter to inquire on progress. Archie would send pictures a week or so after taking them. Archie told me about the new G6 and asked if I wanted to wait a little until he could get #1 working. I agree eagerly and decide to wait a little to let him get the setup finished with the new tranny. His contact at GM says he'll be able to order new crate F40 trannies by the end February.
In mid February 2006, Archie had the first G^ done - so I change the order. I also asked about the chop, and since the wait was on for the tranny decided to add this to my order. Delivery was moved to the very end of March with a more probable delivery in May.
Meeting Delivery Date (A)
I downgraded this mark a little, but most of the trouble was because of my order changes. The changes I'd request pushed the production dates into Archie's already busy schedule. We tried for Mid May and ended up waiting until May 25th.
Delivery Day (B+)
I slight downgrade here as Archie was really pushing the envelope with my order. He and the boys (mostly the boys) were working hard on finishing up everything and at delivery has one outstanding issues. The speedo fluttered at idle (sometimes). They really tried to sort it out - and ended up with a fix a couple of months later. I guess if I'd ordered the standard 5 speed everything would have been fine. Since I was still a relative guinea pig for the 6 speed I do need to remember this when grading. Everyone else ordering the 6 speed will have no problem as the issure has been resolved.
Break-in (B+)
I had quite a few problems with the alternator belt getting flipped off. It took me a few weeks to sort out the problem. Turns out the alternator Archie got from CarQuest was out of aligment. Shaft was not square and It took me three weeks to burn out the alternator. I picked up a complete rebuild from NAPA - problem solved. When you order through Archie - make sure you ask for all componenet to come from NAPA or other high quality parts supplier. I know CarQuest is known for questionable parts. Archie's cost to you will be higher - but you'll save yourself aggravation.
Response to problems from Archie (A)
Archie stands behind his work and will not fluff you off. I originally thought the starter solenoid was bad and he shipped a replacement to me pronto. He also made a tension pulley for the 350SBC and sent that too me quickly. After my trouble over the first three weeks he even offered to come to Toronto to fix the problems if I wanted. Being too proud of an individual I was bound and determined to figure out the problem and do the fixes myself. I don't have a coverd area - but and now much more familliar with the alternator and starter than I'd ever expect to be. THis isn't all bad as I am now a lot more confident around the engine. Time well spent on my part.
I had a rear panel seperate a little, and knowing I was going to the Choptop reunion, decided to wait to fix this until Septemmber.
Final Bug Fixes (A+)
I drove to Archies three days before the Choptop reunion. Although he and the boys were very busy on Madcurl and Troyboy's car Kris, Rob and Mark took care of the panel seperation issue, fixed the jumpy speedo, and got my original battery back. Considering how much work was done I consider these items minor.
Quality of Work (A+)
Every mechanic I've shown the car to thinks the work - both engine and body - is 1st class. There is no doubt that being Chop #23 means the work is down pat. No leaks in sunroof or windows. Interior colours don't match exactly, but the beechwood colour scheme already has two shades - so a third minor difference on the pillars (fiberglass parts) isn't noticeable. The new headliner is also great. Engine and tranny runs smooth and are reliable. I've driven more than 6000 miles since the end of May and the car is strong and reliable.
Overall ease to deal with Archie (A+)
Archie has always been forthcomming with time lines and issue I may have had with the project. His work crew are phenomenal and are a joy to work with - more on this in later posts....
Overall Happiness with the project (A+)
I would not hesitate to recommend Archie for engine or chop top work. I'm not a mechanic, don't have very many tools, and no place to work on the car. Even if I had the space and tools I do not have the mechanical expertise to do this kind of work. Archie uses fram jigs during the cop conversions - thereby keeping the body solid and sqaure.
This is just my opinion, but if you want the job done right - V8 Archie is surely one guy who can do the job right the first time!
I slight downgrade here as Archie was really pushing the envelope with my order. He and the boys (mostly the boys) were working hard on finishing up everything and at delivery has one outstanding issues. The speedo fluttered at idle (sometimes). They really tried to sort it out - and ended up with a fix a couple of months later. I guess if I'd ordered the standard 5 speed everything would have been fine. Since I was still a relative guinea pig for the 6 speed I do need to remember this when grading. Everyone else ordering the 6 speed will have no problem as the issure has been resolved.
What was the speedometer solution? Not that I've been able to drive my 6-speed since May 10th, I'd still like to know how to fix it...
What was the speedometer solution? Not that I've been able to drive my 6-speed since May 10th, I'd still like to know how to fix it...
The fix I needed was to add more power to the signal comin out of the Dakota DIgital controller. I'm bad with names, but I think John is the fellow who provide Archie with the electronic solution going from the F40 tranny to the FIero computer and speedo. It's adjustable - but the signal seems to be alittle low (in power) at idle. As soon as I move the car forwards the speedo would settle down and read correctly. Now it's rock solid all the time. John fashioned a resitor and capacitor together to add power to the signal. The electronics were then soldered into place.
Bob (California - Ferrari rebody) had the same problem. His was also affected due to the abnormal diameter of the tires he is using. DOn't have the size of his tires - but they are way larger than stock. He speedo is working - but is reading a little low - which is better than reading a little high.
Bob (California - Ferrari rebody) had the same problem. His was also affected due to the abnormal diameter of the tires he is using. DOn't have the size of his tires - but they are way larger than stock. He speedo is working - but is reading a little low - which is better than reading a little high.
Dave, My speedo was reading low before we started the job changing the Dakota Digital controller. Jack did a great job fining the problem with the speedometers. He is a wiz with electronics, but my speedo reading was too far off (because of my tire size) to bring it into the ball park but it is closer then it was when it started, and I am happy with that. I am glad he fixed the problem with your car, it helped with mine. Glad you made it home safe and sound. Bob
With the sweet 6 speed are you still using the fiero drive shafts or are they from the Solstice also??
Awesome looking car!!
Archie goes with new driveshafts (I think he makes them himself - or uses something else from another car). You'd have to ask him - but it's part of his conversion kit - or it was part of my overall conversion kit. Archie has his own (tm) way of mounting the shafts etc...
Thanks for the kudos...
I'm posting pics of my last modifications later this week.
Dave, My speedo was reading low before we started the job changing the Dakota Digital controller. Jack did a great job fining the problem with the speedometers. He is a wiz with electronics, but my speedo reading was too far off (because of my tire size) to bring it into the ball park but it is closer then it was when it started, and I am happy with that. I am glad he fixed the problem with your car, it helped with mine. Glad you made it home safe and sound. Bob
No problems Bob. I'm just happy that I was able to drive Jack to the latest Radio shack to buy the parts to make the fix happen. Jack came prepared to fix my car - he had premade the circuitry - but forgot the part at his home. $20 of parts and he was able to fashion up two parts - one for me and you. He has enough resistors to make up about 4 more and only needs to buy the capacitor. The actual cost of parts for one cicuit is about $5.
I'm glad you asked me about it as I'd have hated to think you'd drive all the way to Kalifornia without it!
You mentioned a seperating panels issue, what was that all about ?
Also you mentioned covering the airiel hole ??
Nothing serious... The inner panel of the rear clip (above the air vents) is held on at two mounting points. A month after I picked up my car - with everything settling, the panel needed a slight adjustment (one spacer needed to lift it slightly higher). Kris - at Archie's did the fix in about a minute.
Now that the build is finished, it's time to add modifications to the TAZ. As mentioned earlier in this thread, I drove to Rockford, IL for the ChopTop reunion and Fierorama 2006. As I had a few outstanding issues to clear up with Archie so I showed up on his doorstep three days early (Wed Sept 6th,2006). I told him what I was hoping to accomplish and suggested that while they were fixing the minor issues (took them less than five minutes) that I might do the work myself.
Archie had no problem with this. He let me use a bay, use their tools and bother Rob and Kris to make sure I was doing things correctly. I had three things I wanted to do.
First was fix a bad chip/crack in in left side intake scoop.
Scoop FIx
I've done some body work in the past - but it was a long time ago - and ended up looking pretty bad. I used sandpaper to clean up the mar and then proceeded to bondo. Kris showed me the proper way to mix the bondo - I usually use too must setting agent. This is what it looked like with the bondo.
Next, tape it off and prime. Then wet sand....
Then goes on the paint - woila! first repair done.
Next, project - Hide Aerial
First I take off the front right panel and rocker panel. I already knew I just did not want to "plug" the aerial hole - as the fiberglass will shrink and crack. I'd never done any fiberglass work - so Kris gave me the instructions - grind down for good surface, fiberglass the inside first - turn over and grind down the outside, fiberglass until fix is higher than the panel, sand with 150 down to final surface, sand with 320 then sand with 600, prime, wet sand with 600, and then final paint.
Here's the right side - no fender.
Next the fiberglass on the inside... look Ma! I'm no longer a fiberglass virgin!
Figure out the best location for the mount point. Grind down to bare metal, weld on a braket - holes - predilled, bolt the antenna on then paint the assembly. I did this work while the underside of the fiberglass was setting up. Kris did the welding - I'm still a virgin in this area!
Next, I fiberglass the top side...
Then put the panel back on (with rocker). In retrospect I could have done everything while the panel was off - but did it this way cuz I don't know any better...
Next, bondo...
Then tape off - sand and prime....
Then take the taped out area off, wet sand and paint... Woila! Job #2 done...
I have lost some reception, and suspect I'll need to replace the antenna with something of higher quality - or change the location so it wraps up and along the front of the windscreen underneath the wiper motors.... It works, but lost about 40% of range.... I've got an MP3 player installed and mostly listen to CD's I've burned. Three CD's 20 or so hours of music... not bad.
I'll make the final project part of the next post....
