So I got this image from Vintage Nut but still need help. I know people have said that the size is M11x1.5 but I'm missing the depth. That or if anyone knows where to find this single bolt. The only thing I can think of is if I get lucky and find a guy parting out a Fiero online. Some guy on here said that I shouldn't start it unless I get this bolt so I don't ruin my engine. I have also looked online but there is basically nothing.
So I got this image from Vintage Nut but still need help. I know people have said that the size is M11x1.5 but I'm missing the depth. That or if anyone knows where to find this single bolt. The only thing I can think of is if I get lucky and find a guy parting out a Fiero online. Some guy on here said that I shouldn't start it unless I get this bolt so I don't ruin my engine. I have also looked online but there is basically nothing.
It is a head bolt, it is a rare thread size and a special hardness or whatever, so you'll need to get a specific set of head bolts, ask your stores or look up the head bolts, I don't think you'll find them individually. a set will have the one head stud and I think 15 head bolts, then you can look and verify that the other head bolts are in the engine or not (at least the visible ones). All the head bolts are what keeps the top of the combustion chamber (the head) on the engine, no bolts or missing ones, then the explosions in the engine can lift the head up a bit, blow out your head gasket, and start melting things.
I will look in my bolt assortment to see if I can find this unusual bolt. Can't promise anything right now but will check later today. If we have it I'll send it but first need to find it.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
FYI As mentioned, the G501 image is found in the V6 Cylinder Head Bolt Set...
Normally, both cylinder heads are removed and reinstalled on the engine block as a 'set' when servicing the heads AND these bolts are NOT reusable!
Once the heads are 'torqued' to spec, the bolts have been 'stretched' so "One Use" ONLY.
Most new vehicle head bolts are torque to yield, however Fieros aren't, the manual specifies only a torque, not a torque and angle for torque to yield bolts (the felt torque decreases as a bolt yields, therefore only a torque spec would either never be reached before the bolt snaps or is before the point where the bolt starts to deform and stretch) and specifies to clean and reuse them. As long as it is torqued to the factory manual spec (66 foot pounds if I remember, definitely not the 90 foot pounds of some of the aftermarket manuals) and a used bolt is clean and in good shape, they'll be fine. I've driven 15000kms total on a set of head bolts that were used twice, then later, a 3rd time on another engine. No issues.
I will look in my bolt assortment to see if I can find this unusual bolt. Can't promise anything right now but will check later today. If we have it I'll send it but first need to find it.
ok let me know if you get lucky and find one. I still don't know why the bolt is even missing. The previous guy was trying to do something with the negative battery cable because it wasn't even connected.
It is a head bolt, it is a rare thread size and a special hardness or whatever, so you'll need to get a specific set of head bolts, ask your stores or look up the head bolts, I don't think you'll find them individually. a set will have the one head stud and I think 15 head bolts, then you can look and verify that the other head bolts are in the engine or not (at least the visible ones). All the head bolts are what keeps the top of the combustion chamber (the head) on the engine, no bolts or missing ones, then the explosions in the engine can lift the head up a bit, blow out your head gasket, and start melting things.
I can try talking to NAPA again. last time I went I showed the bolt photo and said the engine type. They said they can't find it that way and need the bolt its self because that's how their system works I guess. Or if I was able to get the threads and other measurements.
I can try talking to NAPA again. last time I went I showed the bolt photo and said the engine type. They said they can't find it that way and need the bolt its self because that's how their system works I guess. Or if I was able to get the threads and other measurements.
Yeah because there are dozens of different types of bolts on the engine, if all you come with is an electrical location point and a picture, but by saying "head bolt set" that narrows it down to one specific bolt/stud type.
Yeah because there are dozens of different types of bolts on the engine, if all you come with is an electrical location point and a picture, but by saying "head bolt set" that narrows it down to one specific bolt/stud type.
I told them is was G501. I thought that was enough
I told them is was G501. I thought that was enough
Founds this bolt in the garage. Its about 3 1/2" long. Is this the bolt that you are looking for??
BTW, ten posts in the Technical discussion page is abusing the privilege. I suggest you read the manual thoroughly. Most of the answers are there.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 09-10-2025).]
i have one from a 2.5 fiero because 1987 2.5s ARE torque to yield.this is the old bolt.it seems to be a m11x1.5. its 2x2 15/16"to the bottom of the bolt head.its probably different.
i have one from a 2.5 fiero because 1987 2.5s ARE torque to yield.this is the old bolt.it seems to be a m11x1.5. its 2x2 15/16"to the bottom of the bolt head.its probably different.
It might work. will have to buy it online though because last time I went they also said they don't carry M11's
If your only wanting that to put the Ground wire in the factory location and there is a currently a headbolt in that place, don't make it hard and complicated. The ground wire needs to be securely bolted to the engine block or head, it does not have to be at that head ' stud'. Just bolt it somewhere in that area there's a available spot, heck, put it under what ever is the easiest upper AC bracket bolt to get out.
I basically suggested the same thing nine days ago... but no, apparently this needs to become a major endeavor.
He's already done that, because that head stud is missing, I don't remember which subject he's said that in but that stud is an empty hole. Obviously you shouldn't start an engine with missing head bolts, hence the search for one.
PLUS, Carlin said that the original owner ran the engine without oil; pulled the motor out; installed another, and then the "old guy" died before hooking up the unknown second engine...
quote
Originally posted by Carlin: It was free {the car} I am 16 I don't know much about engines I'm broke {No Income/Job}
A basket case...?
------------------ Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles
Here is the better picture of the bolt that I have. If you need it let me know and I will send it but try to let up on clogging up the technical section.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 09-11-2025).]
He's already done that, because that head stud is missing, I don't remember which subject he's said that in but that stud is an empty hole. Obviously you shouldn't start an engine with missing head bolts, hence the search for one.
Call me doubtful, but I'm not convinced there's a missing head bolt. And if it turns out that the head bolt stud is actually missing, IMO just use a more readily available head bolt (not stud) to replace it... and attach the negative battery cable ground elsewhere.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-11-2025).]
PLUS, Carlin said that the original owner ran the engine without oil; pulled the motor out; installed another, and then the "old guy" died before hooking up the unknown second engine...
A basket case...?
the new engine is installed. just not fully hooked up.
Here is the better picture of the bolt that I have. If you need it let me know and I will send it but try to let up on clogging up the technical section.
if you want to you can so we can see if it even fits. I would appreciate it a lot. is there a way to do private messages though. I ain't doxing my self. btw it ain't starting for awhile. The EMC is gone so I got to buy new one.
[This message has been edited by Carlin (edited 09-11-2025).]
Call me doubtful, but I'm not convinced there's a missing head bolt. And if it turns out that the head bolt stud is actually missing, IMO just use a more readily available head bolt (not stud) to replace it... and attach the negative battery cable ground elsewhere.
I already have the ground and negative in another spot but need that bolt so I can start the motor. I thought I could ignore it but if I do the engine will blow up.
Call me doubtful, but I'm not convinced there's a missing head bolt.
quote
Originally posted by Carlin:
...need that bolt so I can start the motor. I thought I could ignore it but if I do the engine will blow up.
Just to satisfy my own curiosity... which of the eight head bolts is missing? I numbered them for you in order to make it very simple to identify the exact location.
Just to satisfy my own curiosity... which of the eight head bolts is missing? I numbered them for you in order to make it very simple to identify the exact location.
I don't think its any of those. The bolt goes in at a angle. its not straight up like those. it may be the hole above 5. the spot name is G501 and that might be the spot in your photo
[This message has been edited by Carlin (edited 09-11-2025).]
it may be the hole above 5. the spot name is G501 and that might be the spot in your photo
It either is or it isn't.
Look, I'm not trying to be an azz, but I think you've bitten off more than you chew with this car. Learning about cars with one that's at least in running condition is a whole lot simpler than starting with a partially disassembled car that also has components missing.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-11-2025).]
I don't get why you can do a repost of another persons post but cut half of it off. its still in the photo just not the ones you labeled.
I have seen it a few time on here. people just do a quick summary of someone's else post and it now doesn't make much sense because they left some important parts out. I feel like the way it should work instead is if you have a post from someone else you should be able to get a easy link option from that post. So that way people can see the full original post with no edits.
[This message has been edited by Carlin (edited 09-11-2025).]
Read the rest of my last post which I edited/added to.
I understand what your saying. I knew the issues it had but there is a good reason why I got it. So as you can see I'm a car guy. I love cars. For my first car I wanted something I would love and be unique to everyone else. I'm in a small town so there isn't many options unless I just got some 2000's car. The problem I have with cars is that ever since the 2000's cars have began to all look the same and are so boring now unless your buying something expensive which isn't happening for me. I just love old cars more.
wait one more thing that is actually very good. So this car was a gift so it was free. by the time I buy all of the parts and get it running it should be the same price as if I just bought a running car. the only expensive parts I currently need are. tires, battery, windshield, and the ECM hopefully it doesn't pass $2k if I'm lucky and buy right
[This message has been edited by Carlin (edited 09-11-2025).]
...by the time I buy all of the parts and get it running it should be the same price as if I just bought a running car.
"Buying all the parts" does not necessarily guarantee in the end a "running car".
We've all had to start somewhere, but the need to begin a new thread on an automotive forum every time you come across a missing nut or bolt is not a good sign.
"Buying all the parts" does not necessarily guarantee in the end a "running car".
We've all had to start somewhere, but the need to begin a new thread on an automotive forum every time you come across a missing nut or bolt is not a good sign.
I don't have the right tools to measure the threads that's why. btw I'm not a expert not even close but I've learned quite a bit in the last year. this is my 4th project so far. Got a 3 wheeler converted to a ATV running from the 80's. a Chinese scooter got combustion but needs a carb. and I got a go cart. the engine was seized but got it to turn over.
btw all of my projects have electrical issues. I hate it so much. wiring gets so complex in vehicles but I got to learn somehow.
if it makes you happy I can try to learn the manual you guys showed me. The only issue I have is the diagrams are deeply hidden on that website. most of the time when I use it I just get stuck in a dead end with part numbers https://charm.li/Pontiac/19...r%20and%20Diagnosis/
[This message has been edited by Carlin (edited 09-11-2025).]
"Buying all the parts" does not necessarily guarantee in the end a "running car".
We've all had to start somewhere, but the need to begin a new thread on an automotive forum every time you come across a missing nut or bolt is not a good sign.
I do have to agree with Patrick, it is cheaper in the long run to start with a good shape car, that you only need to keep up on preventative maintenance on. I got my Fiero as a middle of the road example, and I don't regret anything, because I've had so much more time driving it than if I had saved up for a pristine example, but my Fiero was perfectly drivable from the start, and I've still spent enough to buy a really really nice one, and maybe still do some of the mods I've done. If you have to pour money into a non running vehicle, and you only really get to enjoy and drive it after you've paid enough for a cheap running car (if you really budget and do everything very meticulously) then you might as well start by saving up and getting a cheap running Fiero, or if you don't budget as well, or get stuck or caught up on things, then you'll be putting a lot more money into it that could have gone towards a better one.
A big thing that ends up costing a lot is when you don't have the right part or something "goes wrong" and you try to make do with what you can get your hands on. 5 trips to the hardware store to get a bolt here, a bolt there, replace this piece, try and find another piece, it adds up a lot faster than it would seem, my beater car, a 2001 Chrysler Sebring kept losing its alignment because the subframe was rotten, I ended up spending as much money on temporary repairs, new bushings, then sheet metal and trying to box in the rotten parts, and all the bolts that broke when removing things multiple times for the repairs and eventual replacement, I spent as much money on "junk" that didn't work as I eventually spent to just buy the subframe and have it done right. Your vehicle seems to have a lot of those issues, it may seem easy to fix up for $2000, but unless you buy a running "parts" car for $2000 (you have to travel for the best deals sometimes), and combine the best of the 2, and are completely satisfied with the end result, you likely will be spending a LOT more than $2000 on this. A lot of parts can be found cheap, but if you need a lot of parts, it's no longer cheap.
I got my Fiero at 17, 2.5 years ago, I took it to a garage twice the first summer, for shocks and struts and front bushings, that cost over $1000. Everything else I've done, the first thing I did, not even a week into ownership, was changing the spark plugs, one of the front bank broke off in the hole. I got it out, but if I had even one or two more things like that happen without a good balance of driving to water down the hardships, I don't think I'd still have a Fiero. I've engine swapped it in a car tent on gravel with 1 jack and 2 Jack stands, I've had an engine blow only 100kms after install, this car has given me some real headaches, but the important thing is that I've been able to drive it nearly any time I want, downtime is minimal. I've driven an average of around 50kms every day there isn't snow and salt, 25,000kms in 2.5 years, mid April to early November. I've learned a lot on this car, and it has led me for now to a full time job at a garage with no other schooling, it's because there's been an awesome balance of work with play. Before you get to deep in this and spend enough to be sure that this is "your" Fiero, have a look around Facebook marketplace, look 200, 500, etc. miles away, if you see anything running for how much you expect to put into this to get it running, then that's what I'd do. Whatever you do, we're here to help, although one cumulative thread with a generic title that you update with new questions would be better.
