There are several ways to get that bolt out. You can weld another bolt to it and use a wrench on the new hex bolt head but if you have no welder; a small Stilson wrench or a small pair of vice grips may be able to remove it. A stud remover socket wrench may also work.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 01-19-2025).]
Originally posted by kjelle69: Is there any things that could generate problems when welding on the engine? Sensors, ECM etc ?
You need to use some common sense, but in general you won’t create problems welding on the engine if you imagine the path of the current and avoid having the current pass through bearings or things like that.
I think that grounding to the engine block, timing chain cover, or gearbox casing could all be good choices.
That could work if the bolt isn’t too stuck. You may lose some of the heat transfer from the stud to the threads, which is useful for breaking free stuck bolts. As long as the battery is disconnected, I’ve never had issues with welding on the engine block.
That could work if the bolt isn’t too stuck. You may lose some of the heat transfer from the stud to the threads, which is useful for breaking free stuck bolts. As long as the battery is disconnected, I’ve never had issues with welding on the engine block.
If you decide to weld a part on the engine I would disconnect the battery cable and run a chain placed on the ground cable to the floor We've welded exhaust systems and brackets while everything was connected without any problems but in theory electronic pulses under certain rare conditions have the potential to damage the ECM .
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
If you decide to weld a part on the engine I would disconnect the battery cable and run a chain placed on the ground cable to the floor We've welded exhaust systems and brackets while everything was connected without any problems but in theory electronic pulses under certain rare conditions have the potential to damage the ECM .
DIsconnect the battery and unplug the ECM to be safe.
Lisle Tools: Stuck Bolt and Stud Remover {Available Individually or a Set} "Drive the proper size remover over the bolt head, nut or stud. The remover spline cuts into the bolt head or threads for a sure grip." https://www.lislecorp.com/s...and-stud-remover-set
[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 01-19-2025).]
As others have said: If you weld, then totally disconnect the battery. Put the welder earth cable connection on the engine block as close as possible to the bolt in question. As long as the electronics are not charged up, then you shouldn't have any problems with the sensors.
------------------ "Turbo Slug" - '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. - The fastest Fiero in France! @turboslugfiero https://youtu.be/hUzOAeyWLfM