This week I nstalled 2 fuel pumps, 1 4cyl and 1 v6 both gauges read totally straight past full. I tested both for fuel pumps working but did not check gauges. What did I do wrong? Is there a procedure to follow to assure gauge works before reinstalling the tank?
Do Not short tan, tan/white, there to anything or will blow fuse for the pump. Check power w/ test light or meter to the black wire.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
If you drain the tank completely when you change the fuel pump, then you can use a multimeter on the tank connector and check the sender to make sure it goes between 0 and 90 ohms. Test this with the tank right side up (to simulate the empty condition), and then test it again with the tank up side down (to simulate the full condition). This also identifies the stuck float condition.
Once you do this, then you know the sender works and the wiring to the connector is good. Then if it does not work in the car, then it is from the connector to the cluster. SInce it works on ohms and needs to see zero, then grounds are critical. The plastic film with all the electrical traces is flakey at best. If the connectors to it have been off, then check to make sure all the copper fingers into that connector cavity are straight. It is quite common for them to move around upon disassembly and cause issues on reassembly.
