So in the process of my new headlight system I have been attempting to iron out my 84.
Story time. Will keep simple.
Bought with bad clutch, fixed clutch, ran good from august to October.
Started misfiring at load in October. Lugging or toeing in 3rd or 4th gear and it continually misses on all 4 cylinders.
Clutch broke again, never got to it.
Fixed clutch again and installed new plugs, wires and coil (all AC Delco).
Started driving. Same misfire is better but present. Now get a bouncy tach. 2 weeks go by and then a lifter collapses.
Take apart front of motor, replace flat tappets, pushrods, rocker arms and rocker arm pivots. Break in procedure. flubbed intake gasket install cause I RTV'd it and was using coolant. misfire is present.
Finally get around to fixing misfire and intake gasket. Replace gasket with new blue felpro unit. Replace TPS, Replace ICM. Now wont stop high idling. (vacuum leak???) exact same misfire. Oddly enough outside of the very specific condition it misfires in the car seems way up on power. Its only during toe in from cruise or during lugging that it bucks and pops. Sometime out the intake. Never violent bangs it just feels like its just a bit behind. Capped off everything but the MAP and the EGR. Still no change. When cold starting the idle is low and rough. Hard to start when cold. Needs gas pedal. Its still very, very drivable and seems to run well on the highway (85mph plus under half throttle). But if you toe into it on the highway it starts to shudder.
I can run it at wide open throttle but sometimes you have to step down, buck misfire, let up and then step down again to get it to not misfire.
Another question the engine when running makes a whistling sound (a soft, whoooooooooooo that varies with engine RPM), nothing out of the ordinary, its always had this. Is this a sound the EGR makes. Older carbureted iron dukes don't seem to make this noise.
Where do i go from here? It doesn't appear that my intake is leaking (brake cleaner check).
Clogged cat, clogged fuel filter, bad 02? I have read almost every article on the matter on this form and it usually the TPS and ICM.
Please Advise, sorry for the block of text, just wanted to provide as much information as possible.
it sounds like some kind of timing issue. One that creeps up when there's a higher load on the engine.
When you had it apart, did you check out the timing chain? Perhaps it's stretched enough so that at lower use it's "fine" but with a bit of additional strain it becomes apparent.
it sounds like some kind of timing issue. One that creeps up when there's a higher load on the engine.
When you had it apart, did you check out the timing chain? Perhaps it's stretched enough so that at lower use it's "fine" but with a bit of additional strain it becomes apparent.
Its a duke, no timing chain, gears.
When they dont make much noise so they likely aren't stripped. Plus It would affect high RPM pulls the hardest. Once she clears her throat she pulls fine to 5k
When they dont make much noise so they likely aren't stripped. Plus It would affect high RPM pulls the hardest. Once she clears her throat she pulls fine to 5k
When you say misfire... is it bogging down, or are the plugs actually firing indiscriminately or out of order? You said you replaced the ignition control module, so I'm assuming it's a 1984-1986 and not an 87-88 w/ DIS ignition. So if you've replaced the ICM, and the TPS... and you've ensured that the TPS is properly adjusted... the only other thing that I can think of that would cause bogging down would be:
1 - Fuel issue from inconsistent fuel delivery... that could mean that it's providing "consistent" fuel, but when the demand for more fuel exists, it's starting to lean out. This can be either a clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel pick-up sock, or even a clogged or sticking injector in the TB.
2 - MAP Sensor: No idea how this thing works, but I've had several Fieros where they bogged hard... almost totally undriveable other than at idle, and I've had to disconnect or plug the MAP sensor for me to even be able to drive home (and bucking stops). Cheap fix in this case.
3 - Catalytic Converter: Yup... definitely been there, done that. I had a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am GT that I sold in 2006 because I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. I replaced basically everything... timing chain, injectors, ignition packs, everything. Idled AMAZING... turns out... the catalytic converter (pre-cat) had completely melted because I used a can of SeaFoam and I guess it was just a bit too much for it. It ran very hot and melted the cat. The new owner of the car (whom I sold it to for $2,500) was kind enough to let me know what the problem ended up being, after I spend $3,000 in parts! It would idle... meaning I could move it around the cul-de-sac, but any significant throttle and it just bucked and sputtered and popped.
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: When you say misfire... is it bogging down, or are the plugs actually firing indiscriminately or out of order? You said you replaced the ignition control module, so I'm assuming it's a 1984-1986 and not an 87-88 w/ DIS ignition. So if you've replaced the ICM, and the TPS... and you've ensured that the TPS is properly adjusted... the only other thing that I can think of that would cause bogging down would be:
1 - Fuel issue from inconsistent fuel delivery... that could mean that it's providing "consistent" fuel, but when the demand for more fuel exists, it's starting to lean out. This can be either a clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel pick-up sock, or even a clogged or sticking injector in the TB.
2 - MAP Sensor: No idea how this thing works, but I've had several Fieros where they bogged hard... almost totally undriveable other than at idle, and I've had to disconnect or plug the MAP sensor for me to even be able to drive home (and bucking stops). Cheap fix in this case.
3 - Catalytic Converter: Yup... definitely been there, done that. I had a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am GT that I sold in 2006 because I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. I replaced basically everything... timing chain, injectors, ignition packs, everything. Idled AMAZING... turns out... the catalytic converter (pre-cat) had completely melted because I used a can of SeaFoam and I guess it was just a bit too much for it. It ran very hot and melted the cat. The new owner of the car (whom I sold it to for $2,500) was kind enough to let me know what the problem ended up being, after I spend $3,000 in parts! It would idle... meaning I could move it around the cul-de-sac, but any significant throttle and it just bucked and sputtered and popped.
Hope that helps!
Oh nuts.
It's starting to jog my memory that I was dumping seafoam into the motor during its first time being fixed since the lifter was starting to tick. I bet you I killed the cat. Will cut it out this weekend. Its rattling like a mofo anyway
The misfire is odd, it's like the engine is outrunning the spark. The ignition just feels behind. I doubt its fuel related. It has a brand-new pump and filter. Im going to post a youtube video]
Here's a youtube video of my car, the noise is faint, but Im holding the pedal right at the place it likes to misfire, its just about half throttle but its more based on engine load than throttle position. Meaning the place on the pedal it misfires changes based on the speed of the car.. You can hear it struggling https://www.youtube.com/shorts/O9Aw71vKrD4.
Im still concerned about the fact I cant get the idle to come down. I reset the computer and it idles pretty nicely at about 800 for 20 seconds and then climbs right up and I get some light to moderate greyish white smoke out the pipe
It's starting to jog my memory that I was dumping seafoam into the motor during its first time being fixed since the lifter was starting to tick. I bet you I killed the cat. Will cut it out this weekend. Its rattling like a mofo anyway
The misfire is odd, it's like the engine is outrunning the spark. The ignition just feels behind. I doubt its fuel related. It has a brand-new pump and filter. Im going to post a youtube video]
Here's a youtube video of my car, the noise is faint, but Im holding the pedal right at the place it likes to misfire, its just about half throttle but its more based on engine load than throttle position. Meaning the place on the pedal it misfires changes based on the speed of the car.. You can hear it struggling https://www.youtube.com/shorts/O9Aw71vKrD4.
Im still concerned about the fact I cant get the idle to come down. I reset the computer and it idles pretty nicely at about 800 for 20 seconds and then climbs right up and I get some light to moderate greyish white smoke out the pipe
I'm definitely not saying it's a definite... but that is totally what happened to me... haha, and it totally killed my cat. I try to use it on a totally full tank, and not continuously.
White / greyish smoke usually means that you're burning oil, and that would normally be an indicator of worn O-rings; however, I think your problem could likely be more a PCV problem. It's been a long time since I've had a Duke, but there's a PCV valve somewhere that connects to the top of the crankcase to the air cleaner. I think it might be between where the air cleaner goes over the crankcase. It's a cheap part to replace, like 10 bucks or less.
But yeah, I hear a lot of pinging... which definitely means that the fuel is pre-detonating, which could simply mean that it's running really hot. With a huge vacuum leak, that certainly could be causing your problems too, AND... cause your cat to melt (due to running too lean).
Try not to drive it too much like this, because you can burn your valves and damage the valve seats if it's running too lean.
I'm trying to think of all the places that you could have a vacuum leak. So, of course you have the brake booster... just thinking out loud here. The brake booster uses vaccum to provide boost to the brakes. How do the brakes feel? It's possible that if you have a leak anywhere in the line, it could be causing it.
The Iron Duke is pretty simple... you basically have an intake manifold, a TBI unit, and everything plugs into the TBI unit. You COULD unplug literally every vacuum line, and then PLUG it closed on the intake manifold... and THEN see if your idle is still high.
If the idle is high at that point, then it's likely a problem with your IAC / Idle Air Control valve. I can't remember if you said you replaced that... but that unscrews and then you usually hit the hole with some carb cleaner, and also the IAC valve too. But if you are feeling lucky, just replace it if you haven't already. They don't last forever. If you still have a problem, then you may also need to adjust the arm on your TPS... especially if you just replaced it. They aren't always good from stock.
If after plugging all the holes in the intake (as in, after removing all the EGR lines and plugging them)... you don't have ANY high idle... then I'd simply go through the process of elimination by re-installing them one by one until the high idle comes back.
But to be clear, if you're hearing a rattling in your catalytic converter, it definitely means that the honeycomb broke up, and what can happen is that a large chunk of it gets lodged in the exit of the cat, sideways... which means it's blocking the hole... and it will continue to do that until you let off the pressure and it rattles again... hah...
I can hear either a loose rod or severe pre-ignition (or maybe even a couple spark plug cables going to the wrong cylinders).
What have you got the ignition timing set to?
Damn Patrick, you know your stuff.
The timing was initially set to something, who knows, I never checked since it had been working fine *facepalm*
I filled it up with 91 octane from empty to see if it would change, there was an immediate improvement. Drove it 20 miles home. Retarded the timing slightly with terminal A and B jumped and In the dark found a spark plug arching to the exhaust manifold. Fixed. No more stumble. However, Idle is still too high, and now I have some pretty clear pinging that starts under load at mid-throttle and seems to get better or sometimes disappear at wide open. I plugged every port except the map and still high idle and pinging. I think, here's another video for your expert ears https://www.youtube.com/shorts/E8PFNOhRaOk
I'm starting to think a new EGR might be the way forward. I read in another post here that mid throttle pinging and high idle is almost exclusively EGR related.
Sounds to me like it's still pinging under load. You didn't say what you set the ignition timing to.
If you don't have a timing light, the ignition timing can be set "by ear". When driving up a slight incline in 4th gear at 30 mph, floor the accelerator. If the engine pings (as it's currently doing), retard the ignition a bit and do the driving test again. Keep doing this until the ping is eliminated, and then retard the ignition just a bit more. Keep in mind that if you've put 91 octane gas in the tank, you'll have to do this again with 87 octane fuel. And no, don't keep using 91 octane gas. It's a waste of money with an engine designed to run on 87 octane.
You also need to make sure the EGR valve is opening. With the car parked and running, stick a finger up through a hole in the underside of the EGR valve and see if the diaphragm moves when the throttle is opened. (If you have an aftermarket EGR valve, the holes may be too small for a finger. If so, I'll advise further.) Also check (when the engine's not running) to see if the diaphragm is airtight by pushing up on the diaphragm with the vacuum hose disconnected. Then put a different finger over the vacuum hole, release the diaphragm, and see if it holds until you take your finger off the vacuum hole.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-10-2023).]
Sounds to me like it's still pinging under load. You didn't say what you set the ignition timing to.
If you don't have a timing light, the ignition timing can be set "by ear". When driving up a slight incline in 4th gear at 30 mph, floor the accelerator. If the engine pings (as it's currently doing), retard the ignition a bit and do the driving test again. Keep doing this until the ping is eliminated, and then retard the ignition just a bit more. Keep in mind that if you've put 91 octane gas in the tank, you'll have to do this again with 87 octane fuel. And no, don't keep using 91 octane gas. It's a waste of money with an engine designed to run on 87 octane.
You also need to make sure the EGR valve is opening. With the car parked and running, stick a finger up through a hole in the underside of the EGR valve and see if the diaphragm moves when the throttle is opened. (If you have an aftermarket EGR valve, the holes may be too small for a finger. If so, I'll advise further.) Also check (when the engine's not running) to see if the diaphragm is airtight by pushing up on the diaphragm with the vacuum hose disconnected. Then put a different finger over the vacuum hole, release the diaphragm, and see if it holds until you take your finger off the vacuum hole.
Ignition timing is unknown, I just backed it off a bit. I'm going to get a light soon. Until then I will use your method.
Not able to check the EGR right now as I am at work. But if it fails either of two tests, should I just replace it. I have a local new replacement here for 55 dollars. The one I have in there now is the factory original. Never been changed according to the previous two owners
Thanks
[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 02-10-2023).]
The timing was initially set to something, who knows, I never checked since it had been working fine *facepalm*
I filled it up with 91 octane from empty to see if it would change, there was an immediate improvement. Drove it 20 miles home. Retarded the timing slightly with terminal A and B jumped and In the dark found a spark plug arching to the exhaust manifold. Fixed. No more stumble. However, Idle is still too high, and now I have some pretty clear pinging that starts under load at mid-throttle and seems to get better or sometimes disappear at wide open. I plugged every port except the map and still high idle and pinging. I think, here's another video for your expert ears
When you said your tach was bouncing, I meant to bring up the checking the engine in the dark. Totally spaced.
Not able to check the EGR right now as I am at work. But if it fails either of two tests, should I just replace it.
If the diaphragm has failed, yes, replace the EGR valve.
In regards to the bouncing tach, this is something that's often been discussed... Click Might be a bad tach filter.
I might also add that when the ICM is replaced, it's usually a good idea to replace the pickup coil as well. (Not referring to ignition coil.) It's cheap insurance to do so.
Since I had a coupon for o-reillys I just went ahead and replaced the EGR anyway. No improvement.
Something is rubbing me the wrong way about this idle. When I started the car with the new EGR it idled properly. After driving and warming up it was still knocking a bit, so I retarded timing even farther. Now it was missing and stumbling again on acceleration so I had to split the difference. When I shorted the A and B terminals idle dropped to normal. When I disconnect it would stay normal for a while then slowly climb back up to 11-1500 over the course of 15 seconds or so. Whenever it idled normally, there was no smoke out the tailpipe but when the idle increased I got some faint smoke.
It also feels like my exhaust has gotten louder somehow??? The engine sounds like it becoming more rattly.
I noticed when I pulled the 2x2 plug on the back right of the throttle body. No check engine light came on. Is this for the IAC?
Since I had a coupon for o-reillys I just went ahead and replaced the EGR anyway. No improvement.
Which indicates the original EGR valve was probably fine... which is why I wanted you to test it first.
quote
Originally posted by Dukesterpro:
When I shorted the A and B terminals idle dropped to normal.
Jumping those terminals retards the ignition timing. The ECU no longer has control of advancing the timing.
quote
Originally posted by Dukesterpro:
When I disconnect it would stay normal for a while then slowly climb back up to 11-1500 over the course of 15 seconds or so.
The ECU has control of idle speed through the IAC valve. It's possible the CTS* is faulty and is reporting to the ECU a very low temperature reading. This is where a scanner and/or WinALDL comes in handy.
* Note, I am not referring to the temperature gauge sending unit.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-10-2023).]
The parts cannon is racking up for another round. I was considering swapping to the double-plug coolant sensor. I will try that and get back to you. It ran like this earlier when I first got the car and the coolant sensor was unplugged. I will keep everyone posted
I slapped a new coolant sensor on, a new style to pin plug as recommended by the ogre. No change.
Should unplugging the IAC throw a code? I noticed it doesn't when I open it. In fact, even with the ridiculously high idle the computer still isn't tripping a code 35 which I would expect. What is a good starting point from here, We know the EGR is good. It has a fresh intake gasket. Plugging all the vacuum ports doest fix the high idle. I'm guessing it isn't a vacuum leak. Spraying break cleaner around the intake doesn't induce a higher rev or smoke more. So I am guessing its not vacuum.
It has a new ICM, and a new TPS. I put a new map on but it was bad out of the box. Through a code 34 as soon as the car warmed up. Putting the old one on stopped the light.
I slapped a new coolant sensor on, a new style to pin plug as recommended by the ogre. No change.
Until you use a scanner and/or WinALDL, you don't really know what info the ECU is being fed.
quote
Originally posted by Dukesterpro:
...high idle. I'm guessing it isn't a vacuum leak.
This may seem obvious, but... Is the throttle plate closing as far as it's supposed to? Is the throttle cable binding at all? Has the idle stop screw been tampered with? Is the plug covering it still in place?
I might also add that the engine will want to idle faster if the ignition is still advanced (within reason) beyond the factory specified setting.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-14-2023).]
Id like to assume the idle stop screw hasn't been tampered with. I know I haven't touched it ever and the engine idled fine for several months.
Id like to think the throttle cable is okay. Im going to disconnect it to make sure. The throttle cable wouldn't explain the hard starting bouncing tach and misfires though
Im going to bring in a scanner
[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 02-14-2023).]
Maybe not, but it's possible your car has more than one issue.
Until you see what info the individual sensors are sending to the ECU, (and correctly set the ignition timing), you're at a huge disadvantage in regards to diagnosing and fixing the problem(s).
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-14-2023).]
Maybe not, but it's possible your car has more than one issue.
Until you see what info the individual sensors are sending to the ECU, (and correctly set the ignition timing), you're at a huge disadvantage in regards to diagnosing and fixing the problem(s).
Cable is on the way.
I noticed something funny and decided to give the parts cannon on more shot. A.) every ignition component has been replaced except for the pickup coil.
The car is not high idling upon startup but as it gets warmer it starts to slowly high idle. Exactly in reverse of what it should be doing. Through a chain of mix-ups with a certain company, I had a pretty screaming coupon to use and ordered a refresh kit. It includes all new AC Delco distributor with matching pickup coil and ICM as well as a TPS and MAP. Total cost to me was 15 dollars shipped.
Im starting to believe the standard auto parts I was using are no good. Based on the fact that there map sensor was junk right out of the box.
I still think that if you're car is bogging down at anything above half-throttle, it's a fuel issue... especially if all of your ignition parts are new.
My advice is to drop the fuel tank, and check out the condition of the pick-up unit... specifically, the sock in the tank. As the tank (and other things within it) break down, it can clog this sock and prevent you from getting the proper flow, even if the fuel pump is still good.
You should also replace the fuel filter, which is an easy fix and something you should be doing anyway. I can't remember if you said you did this... but I would do that next.
If it's still not running well, then my vote is for the sock in the tank. It's not that hard to do, it's just getting under the car which is difficult.
I still think that if you're car is bogging down at anything above half-throttle, it's a fuel issue... especially if all of your ignition parts are new.
My advice is to drop the fuel tank, and check out the condition of the pick-up unit... specifically, the sock in the tank. As the tank (and other things within it) break down, it can clog this sock and prevent you from getting the proper flow, even if the fuel pump is still good.
You should also replace the fuel filter, which is an easy fix and something you should be doing anyway. I can't remember if you said you did this... but I would do that next.
If it's still not running well, then my vote is for the sock in the tank. It's not that hard to do, it's just getting under the car which is difficult.
Oh I should mention, I just put a new fuel pump, sock, and float in it <9 months ago. Tank was clean enough to eat out of. I'm guessing its not fuel. Filter was new in July.
While I originally thought vacuum leak. the fact that it doesn't seem to have issues cold and moving the distributor and changing fuel octane changed the symptoms has me focused on ignition components, not to mention that I have been putting on cheap replacements. Even if it does turn out to be fuel related, its not gonna hurt my feelings having nice shiney new ignition components I wont have to worry about on the car.
Oh I should mention, I just put a new fuel pump, sock, and float in it <9 months ago. Tank was clean enough to eat out of. I'm guessing its not fuel. Filter was new in July.
While I originally thought vacuum leak. the fact that it doesn't seem to have issues cold and moving the distributor and changing fuel octane changed the symptoms has me focused on ignition components, not to mention that I have been putting on cheap replacements. Even if it does turn out to be fuel related, its not gonna hurt my feelings having nice shiney new ignition components I wont have to worry about on the car.
Damn, so if I've got this right:
- New plug wires, cap & rotor - New Ignition control module - New IAC, TPS, MAP - New fuel pump, sock, and fuel filter
I assume you've checked the spark plugs too, that they're gapped properly? And I know you said you checked / adjusted the timing and are sure the wires are on the right way.
How about compression, did you say you've checked compression? How about fuel pressure, did you say whether or not you've checked this too?
New Plugs Caps and Wires, All AC Delco, All good. Plugs gapped to Hanes manual
New ICM (Standard Auto Brand) that I am suspicious of. New distributor is going to be delivered today. It has AC Delco stuff on it.
New IAC (AC Delco), new TPS (Standard Auto, verified with oscilloscope to be good) and old map sensor (The standard auto was bad out of the box, hence my concern about them. New ACDelco one in the mail today) and new AC Delco Ignition Coil
New Fuel Pump sock pickup, cant remember the brand. I did pull the fuel filter, found minimal debris. free flowing.
Compression is 130, 129, 132, 130 in order. Engine only had 90,000 miles. First owner really cared for it. Parked it inside for 20 years when the clutch died. Only issues its had seem to involve oil sludge from sitting and having that 180 degree thermostat.
Fuel Pressure is at 13 PSI, almost statically regardless of throttle application. That new fuel pump is loud and strong sounding. Very happy with it.
I have determined the car must be haunted. Ghostbusters are in route to help remedy the situation.
Kidding, I'm starting to think I got a junk ICM and have a had bad pickup coil due to my spastic tachometer. New distributor should be in any moment now. Found it kind of of interesting that this misfire went a way for a few days when the humidity dropped then slowly came back. The high idle reversal only occurred when I replaced the intake manifold gasket, ICM and TPS. Its almost perfectly in reverse. Only starts with a little throttle and idles nice and low when cold and getting progressively higher as the engine heats up.
Will keep you updated, let me know if you got anymore ideas
[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 02-15-2023).]
Pulled the distributor and took a good close look at the current situation. Sigh. It's grim.
The pickup coil nylon wrap is rotted and looks rusty inside. Found the brown little tach filter inside the distributor housing was rusty and burst.
Installed new coil and for some reason grounded the lead for the tach filter introducing a direct short across the coil, melted the coil passthrough terminal so the ICM is not getting any voltage. Sigh, not one of my finest moments.
Will jump 12 volts from the hot side of the coil to the ICM to see if I can get it running.
Fuel Pressure is at 13 PSI, almost statically regardless of throttle application. That new fuel pump is loud and strong sounding. Very happy with it.
This is very suspect. Can someone verify for me here if this is correct or not?
My V6 Fiero typically runs 42 PSI, and ~38 when running.
13-PSI to me seems extremely low, but to be honest, I never remember checking fuel pressure of my 4 cyl Fieros when I've owned them. I know that 4-8 PSI is pretty normal for a carbureted application (with like, a pusher pump), but 13 PSI just seems a little low. Now that I think about it, I don't even remember where to measure fuel pressure on the 4 cyl since there isn't a fuel rail (just a TBI). How are you measuring that fuel pressure?
13 PSI might be normal, I know it's not for a V6.... but that could be your issue.
I also know that sometimes the tube that goes between the fuel pump and the pickup can get crushed and collapse if it's not replaced when you replace the fuel pump.
The pickup coil nylon wrap is rotted and looks rusty inside. Found the brown little tach filter inside the distributor housing was rusty and burst.
Installed new coil and for some reason grounded the lead for the tach filter introducing a direct short across the coil, melted the coil passthrough terminal so the ICM is not getting any voltage. Sigh, not one of my finest moments.
Its in my trunk right now I will pull it out when i get home.
In the mean time, what is this thing. I thought it was a tach filter. But someone's telling me its not.
New distributors in, and here is where I am at.
* Still reverse high idling. No High Idle at cold, progressively faster with heat. *Smooth Tach when cold and low rpm, gets bouncier with heat and revving about 3000 *Stumble when heavy load on engine. (Eg half throttle in 4th gear at 35mph).
Could this be a injector problem? Still looking for ideas. I am still looking for a scanner.
[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 02-17-2023).]
]I can't even Identify it by its part number, its like it doesn't exist. Not even in old (1985-86) components catalogs at work.
It comes off of the black and purple wire than leads from the coil to the ICM + pin. that wire seemed to have connected to the high side of whatever the heck that thing is, and then grounds out to the body of the distributor. I genuinely have no idea what the h-e double hockey sticks it is
it goes right there and ties into the little mounting screw for the plug that exits the distributor. What. Are. You
[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 02-17-2023).]
]I can't even Identify it by its part number, its like it doesn't exist. Not even in old (1985-86) components catalogs at work.
It comes off of the black and purple wire than leads from the coil to the ICM + pin. that wire seemed to have connected to the high side of whatever the heck that thing is, and then grounds out to the body of the distributor. I genuinely have no idea what the h-e double hockey sticks it is
it goes right there and ties into the little mounting screw for the plug that exits the distributor. What. Are. You
Again, I might be talking out of my ass here since it's been a while, but generally there are only two things in our style of distributors... the PICKUP COIL, which requires you to disassemble the distributor to replace (and can cause misfires), and the ignition control module. ALSO, in some distributors, there's also a condenser, which is supposed to... I guess reduce the interference coming from the electrical activity and provide a more accurate / less distorted tach signal to the ECM for timing and adjustment. These do go bad also...
Is yours a 1984? I couldn't remember if you said this anywhere (didn't immediately see it above).
It appears as though the 1984 distributor is totally different than the 85-86 one. The condensor appears to be mounted internally, with a completely different style of ignition control module, rather than the newer style, which has it mounted externally. For some reason, I cannot find it anywhere, you don't seem to offer this piece separately. Unless I'm just completely wrong, but I unfortunately do not have my 1984 anymore to go out and compare.
Can you take a picture of the part you took off? Or are you saying it's missing completely?
