Edit: The previous owner's son just shared his build thread with me. Turns out my car already has KYB shocks! (Doh!) In my defense, they're all black (maybe painted?) so I couldn't tell! Ha ha! Previous owner's build thread, if you're interested: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/131623.html
I did a search, but the most recent, relevant post I could find is 3 years old. I am going to be refurbishing my front end this winter. I'll be replacing all the rubber with poly and possibly installing Will's spherical bearings. I am also considering the adjustable upper control arms from West Coast Fiero. Anyone have any experience with them? My main question: should I replace my front shocks (my car has 50k miles)? It's on my list, but I'm having a tough time finding replacement shocks. I guess I just don't know what to look for? Trying to plug in the Fiero info on websites (summit racing, Koni, etc) turns up no results. I don't plan on doing any racing, I just want to be able to drive aggressively and have the car respond appropriately and predictably. I figure if I'm upgrading the rest of the front end, I should probably do the shocks, too. I appreciate any input! Thanks!
Edit: Forgot to mention, next winter I'll be doing the 3800 sc swap. Not sure how this affects what front shocks I should use?
------------------ Ryan 1986 Fiero GT "Fierbro"
[This message has been edited by ragoldsmith (edited 12-08-2020).]
If your '86 still has the factory shocks, anything will be an improvement. The original shocks (and struts) only offered resistance on the rebound, whereas replacement shocks (and struts) offer resistance in both directions.
From my experience. If you want the best handling shocks try KYB . If you want a softer more OEM ride try Gabriel or Monroe shocks.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I'd be wary of anything from WCF, especially anything they had fabricated.
There is nothing the matter with the OEM upper control arms. Keep them and use your $ savings for heavy duty front and rear sway bars from the Fiero store.
I would go with the KYB Gas-a-just shocks up front- They are a monotube shock like a bilstein.
As far as changing out major components, the biggest problem with the Fiero's early suspension was TUNING, not any of the components. I swapped in the 88 rear suspension on my 85 SE V6, and then started tuning it...mainly alignment and stabilizer bar links.
I would go with the KYB Gas-a-just shocks up front- They are a monotube shock like a bilstein.
As far as changing out major components, the biggest problem with the Fiero's early suspension was TUNING, not any of the components. I swapped in the 88 rear suspension on my 85 SE V6, and then started tuning it...mainly alignment and stabilizer bar links.
Thanks for the link, that was a great read. I have a set of 88 suspension I'll be installing when I do the 3800 sc swap next winter. Is there any advantage to using the 88 rear sway bar up front and moving my 86 front sway bar to the rear? I seem to remember reading something about that being done (I have read a LOT of information on here over the past week or so...I can't keep it all straight). I am also considering the front sway bar from the Fiero Store. Does anyone know if has much advantage over the stock swayer (especially if I use the 88)?
Cvxjet, having run your setup for 3 years, are you happy with it? Do you still think using rubber bushings on the front sway bar is the way to go? I saw your more recent post from earlier this year...what material did you use for the spacers? Have you had much chance to drive your car since you added the spacers? Was it a worthwhile change? Thanks!
Edit: One more question for you, cvxjet, why did you decide to use Rodney's zero lash end links in the rear and not up front?
[This message has been edited by ragoldsmith (edited 12-07-2020).]
I drive my Fiero quite often- Daily driver (Basically)...I have taken a few Fiero friends for runs on windy roads.....They can't believe how well it handles. The spacers were made out of aluminum.
The basic (Crazy) idea I had was to DELAY the influence of the front stabilizer bar during turn in, and then having it come in mid-corner to back off the over-steer so you have excess traction on the rear tires to allow hard acceleration exiting the turn. The rubber bushings up front are the delay....
It really works- I admit the first time I thought of it was with my 1973 Mach 1....And I hemmed and hawed over it for a year before doing it- just wasn't sure it would work..
I have A) Beaten a S2000 in a parking lot cone course (Driven by an ex-Miata racer so he knew what he was doing) and B) on a backroad walked away from a Mini Cooper S that was tailgating me hard....
I wish I had done this 30 years ago, it works so well- but I didn't know any of this back then- just stabilizer bars- wasn't really up on alignment specs, either; When I did the stabilizer bar mounting I also took my front suspension up to max positive Caster angle (5*) and with Moog BJs I was able to dial in 1* of negative camber as well...That made a big difference, too.
The biggest noticeable change is the steering- it feels so much quicker because the car actually responds to your input....
[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 12-07-2020).]
I drive my Fiero quite often- Daily driver (Basically)...I have taken a few Fiero friends for runs on windy roads.....They can't believe how well it handles. The spacers were made out of aluminum.
The basic (Crazy) idea I had was to DELAY the influence of the front stabilizer bar during turn in, and then having it come in mid-corner to back off the over-steer so you have excess traction on the rear tires to allow hard acceleration exiting the turn. The rubber bushings up front are the delay....
It really works- I admit the first time I thought of it was with my 1973 Mach 1....And I hemmed and hawed over it for a year before doing it- just wasn't sure it would work..
I have A) Beaten a S2000 in a parking lot cone course (Driven by an ex-Miata racer so he knew what he was doing) and B) on a backroad walked away from a Mini Cooper S that was tailgating me hard....
I wish I had done this 30 years ago, it works so well- but I didn't know any of this back then- just stabilizer bars- wasn't really up on alignment specs, either; When I did the stabilizer bar mounting I also took my front suspension up to max positive Caster angle (5*) and with Moog BJs I was able to dial in 1* of negative camber as well...That made a big difference, too.
The biggest noticeable change is the steering- it feels so much quicker because the car actually responds to your input....
Great info! Thanks again! No clearance issues on the radiator support brackets with the ones you ordered from Rodney?
