Fellas,
I recently completed the dreaded 'pegging needle' syndrome on our Fiero's temperature gauge. I'm happy. However it seems I need to repair the whole gauge. What??? Now it seems that the gauge won't move--at all. When you start the Fiero for over 30+ years the 'pegging' had effected theinternal guys, like the spring, the ohm circuitry, etc. It appears that they internally froze. Is there a kit to rebuild the whole guage? Help!! Any ideas?
Cordially,
kevin

[This message has been edited by kevin (edited 03-06-2018).]

Finding another one has to be easier than fixing the one you have.

Have you confirmed that it is frozen? I believe there is a method of testing the gauge when trying to determine if the temp sensor is bad. If it was pegging before the hot fix, then it should still have it's movement ability.

Thank you for responding,
Again, after 30 plus years, my dash temp needle got tired of "pegging" each time I started the car. Finally, it fell off😕. I took the dash apart so I could put the pointer back onto the needle. Now, when I start the car, the pointer does not move. It stays at about 100 degrees. It never goes below or above the 100 degree mark. This is why I reckon the internal part(s) are no longer able to register a hot or cold temp.
I suppose a Pennocks Member (The Fiero Farm?) might sell me a good one. I would rather fix the one I got. Ideas?
Cordially,
kevin
Ps. Is there a proper method to heat up the engine sensor to get the needle to move before I take the dash apart again?

[This message has been edited by kevin (edited 03-06-2018).]

measure sender Ω to engine when engine cold and warm. Sender changes Ω then likely not the problem.

Connect some 100 to 3000 Ω resistor to the gauge and ground. Temp Input is right clip/screw of three as viewed from back of dash. (Ground is top, "12v" is left.)

Exact Ω value doesn't mater when looking for change/movement.
ECT charts used for ECM problems are invalid for gauge/sender problem.

Note:
I think Temp gauge have 4 screws but only 3 connected to the dash. (can't find my spare right now.)
carefully loosen and tighten the nuts on back of gauges. Tighten is just snug by a finger or two.
Resistor(s) and nuts can get dirty and stop working right and lose/tight a few times wipes most crap off the part.
If you remove the resistors then do this one at a time. Resistors are not the same for temp and gas gauges.

Warning: Fuel gauge input is left, ground is bottom, 12v is right viewed from back of dash.
See https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/140671.html#p7 but can ignore the jumper. (Jumper is answer to ground problem.)

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 03-06-2018).]