My pod gauge lights work fine as do the tachometer and the smaller square indicator/warning lights. The speedo/ fuel/ water temp gauge however do not light up. When I put a volt gauge on the spedo's copper contacts where the bulb holder touches I only get .2 volts. The working bulbs are all getting nearly 12v. I also pulled the bulb and holder from the lights that don't illuminate and had continuity between the points so they're fine.

Also, when I turn on the lights my temp gauge pegs to the right. Only does it when the lights are on, otherwise works fine.

Thanks in advance.

dash bulbs go to gray and black wires on both connectors on back.
likely 1 wire or small connector has problems to read nothing on a meter for light pads on left side of dash.

Correct bulb layout... see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/138175.html
connectors should be:
Small connector
4 ground
7 12 dash lights
9 12v for ignition power On
10 ajar light
11 temp gauge
1 2 3 5 6 8 not used

big
11 ground
15 dash lights

copper traces in plug area can get lose the "glue" holding it to plastic. If so then can bent and even short out to other "pins." Look in the dash plug using mirror if needed to see w/o tearing apart whole dash.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-02-2017).]

Turned out not to be a loose connection under the dash.

[This message has been edited by 4evrnyt (edited 01-07-2018).]

Discovered the problem.

[url=http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f257/4evrnyt/0106182200b.jpg][/url]

Whats the best fix?

[This message has been edited by 4evrnyt (edited 01-07-2018).]

The fix depends on if you can solder. If you can you can simply solder a wire from the contact to the first bulb contact on the run. This removes the need to try to clean off the coating from the run. I would use a 22 or 20 guage wire, the bulbs will not pull that much current. If you can not solder (or know some one who can) the you are in the market for a new part.

[This message has been edited by Easy8 (edited 01-07-2018).]

I would Not solder this. Typical soldering from most people will wreck the plastic or heat the glue holding copper fast. IOW more problems to solder.

Carefully "strip" any spot in thumb triangle area. thumb side only is enough.
Pierce 2-3 small holes in striped area and tread w/ small wire. If thumb covers mounting hole tread wire there too. Pin should keep wire tight contact in the copper.
connect other end of wire to the plug.

Use enough wire so can release the plug w/o pulling the wire.

I believe broken "pin" is a ground. (Pin 4 of left plug? Right viewed from back.) If so can simply ground the wire anywhere easy to get to.

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

if needed...
I think Contact are remove from body by carefully pushing small tool in the front of body then pull wire.
I don't have a example for this type.

Thanks. It is the ground wire.

Do you think this would work?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp...00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[This message has been edited by 4evrnyt (edited 01-07-2018).]

Easier then above...

C2/p4 grounds other things... Like the clip to ground temp gauge.
jump top clip on temp gauge to bottom clip for fuel gauge. You can follow both traces in this...

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

Most any old network/phone cable w/ solid wire can be used.
Strip ends only.
If a bare jumper moves can short 12V to ground and cook the board.

To attach...
I think push wire in the dash then look at other side to catch big ear or back of clip then push back so can twist tight on board side.
Less risk damaging the clips or have jumper get loose.
Small hole is clearance for screws on the gauges... If screw hits the jumper can cause minor reinstall issues. So don't just push hard when gauges don't fit flat.

If C3/p11 traces look thin near idiot lights then jumper to the tach bottom clip next to C3 bottom.
Nothing draws many amps so short jumper should be ok.
big jumper should be glued w/ RTV silicon. short jumper is optional.

Thanks for the help, will be working on it tonight.

I had already ordered the tape and being Amazon it arrived yesterday so I gave it a try first.

I peeled back the top layer of clear plastic that sandwiches the copper. I cut a small strip of the copper tap I ordered and placed it as a bridge between the broken contacts and then reconnected everything and it works great!

Easy fix, thanks again for all the help.