Front sub-frame/front cross member.......we're talking symantics here.....technically it's a sub-frame no matter what you call it officially. I need to replace mine and haven't had any luck finding a thread describing in detail the removal and reinstallation process.
OK.... that thread was the best thing I could find..(the post from MRJ) The 88 service manual does not have anything. I guess they figured the cross member did not need to come off the car.
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 05-18-2017).]
Hey Gall757....hows it going?.....thanks for trying to help her.
Little info......her Formula is setting in my shop right now and she is very mechanically inclined but I'm trying to teach her how to use the Forum for information. She has a new front sub-frame to put in the car,to replace the current rusted-out one,but she has never actually changed one and I thought she might benefit from asking the members to help give her an idea of how it's done instead of me just showing her during the swap.
Here's my 2 cents on the sub-frame issue.......take it with a grain of salt because this is just what I've been taught through the years.
The front cross-member is also known as the sub-frame.......it's the same setup as the Nova's,Camaro's and Mustang's......and they all call it the sub-frame.
The back of the car has the cradle assembly that holds the drive-train.....it is not part of the actual frame assembly of the car.....it is basically a swing arm assembly like on any motorcycle or 4 wheeler.....the actual frame and sub-frame of the car could care less if that cradle is there or not.
I have an 85 SE V6 with an 88 rear subframe....I was going to change the front to 88, so I removed an 88 front SF in the junkyard...The problem is, I did it years ago and have now gotten rid of that 88 SF. It's relatively straight forward; Remove brakes & suspension, then un-bolt the subframe...The only complication would be the brake lines and the coolant tubes- I can't remember if the coolant tubes pass over or under the SF.
I have pulled and re-installed my 85 subframe twice- The one problem that came up; I was down to the last four bolts...The last bolt...The LAST bolt...snapped off in the frame! I ended up drilling it out and installing a plate & carriage bolt- Grade 8 1/2" so that the torque rating was much higher than the original setup.
Squirt some break-free or other rust cutter/lubricant on the bolts before you start- give it time to work...The bolts inside the subframe especially....If you can pull it off, try spraying them with an extended straw on top...The 85 main frame rails have access holes a foot or so forward of where the weld nuts are located....Use a mirror and a probe light, run the tubing to where it is pointed at the nut/bolt, and then have a helper actually spray the lubricant thru the tube.
Hey Gall757....hows it going?.....thanks for trying to help her.
Little info......her Formula is setting in my shop right now and she is very mechanically inclined but I'm trying to teach her how to use the Forum for information. She has a new front sub-frame to put in the car,to replace the current rusted-out one,but she has never actually changed one and I thought she might benefit from asking the members to help give her an idea of how it's done instead of me just showing her during the swap.
Here's my 2 cents on the sub-frame issue.......take it with a grain of salt because this is just what I've been taught through the years.
The front cross-member is also known as the sub-frame.......it's the same setup as the Nova's,Camaro's and Mustang's......and they all call it the sub-frame.
The back of the car has the cradle assembly that holds the drive-train.....it is not part of the actual frame assembly of the car.....it is basically a swing arm assembly like on any motorcycle or 4 wheeler.....the actual frame and sub-frame of the car could care less if that cradle is there or not.
Well, Mr. Professor, I guess you can take it from here. I'll try to remember what you have taught me too.
I've done the conversion from 84 to 88 on mine. It really is as easy as it looks. There are several things mounted to the sub-frame that need to be removed, brake lines hold downs, brake lines at chassis need to be opened and capped, remove hold down for coolant tubes. Then there should be about 8 bolts to the chassis. Drop the whole thing as a unit and pull off what suspension you want to reuse.
Actually,Gall757......I don't want to have it....lol I want her to learn how to use the Forum to find information instead of me just telling and showing her....I want to be the last resort,so to speak. The best way for her to learn is by doing.
And I did mentioned that my information should be taken with a grain of salt.....everyone calls particular items different names. Perfect example : Some people call it a whatchamajigger.......I call it a thingamabob.....lmao
Cvxjet.....tell me about it.....I currently have one snapped bolt in her new sub-frame that needs to be extracted. Could have been worse I guess....it could be 2 snapped bolts.
Gall,. Cvxjet, RCR... Want to thank y'all for info you have given... I'm just figuring out how to use forum, Which I will be researching how to do wiring harness within next few weeks... Excited the car is getting closer with each step to hear it running soon 😊
There are 8 bolts holding it to the chassis (2 by the lower radiator bracket, 4 inside the main center cross-member, and 2 back under the front firewall section). I would use holes in the frame to apply penetrating oil to the threads of the bolts and let them sit.
While waiting, remove both coolant tubes that run from the radiator to the back of the car along both sides. 4 hose clamps and seven 10mm screws (1 in the center of the cross-member, and 3 per side) the tubes will come off.
Remove the spare tire tub from the chassis so you have better access to the steering shaft. There are several 7mm screws to remove and At the rear corners there are two rubber sleeves (drains from the cowl) that are each held in place by 1 screw. Once you have all the screws removed, you have to twist it slightly to get it to clear everything. The brake lines are either attached to the bottom of the spare tire tub or the cross-member itself (can't remember...) so look for the attachment and remove the 10mm screw.
Either disconnect the front brake hoses, or remove the front calipers, making sure to disconnect the hose attachment to the upper a-arm. No need to do anything with the shocks, sway bars or control arms, as they are all completely self-contained within the 88 front 'cross-member, so they will all come down with it.
Disconnecting the steering rack is a pain on the 88. The rubber boot is much longer than it needs to be, which makes it more difficult to access the pinch bolt on the input shaft. Once the bolt is removed, tap a flat screw driver into the slot to expand it and make it easier to slide free.
Now support the front cross-member and prepare to move it. If you have an air chisel, use the round ended tool and give the head of each bolt about 15 seconds of work with it. The intent is to vibrate the bolt to help it break free w/o snapping. Remove the bolts, I like to start with the 4 in the main body of the cross-member first, then the rear two and the front ones last. Order doesn't really matter.
Once all the bolts are out, either raise the chassis or lower the front cross-member slowly. You want to make sure the steering shaft disconnects from the rack and that nothing else is connected. The front cross-member is quite heavy a a complete unit, so please plan ahead on how you will move it around and get the new one in place.
When you install the new one, you need to make sure it is centered and square to the chassis. It has an alignment dowel on one end, the other end can move a little so you can adjust it.
