The front cross member on my 1988 GT broke where it hold the shock absorber. This doesn't seem to be common as I couldn't find anything about it in the archives. I just bought the car and was wondering what could have caused this? Was the shock not placed in the correct spot before mounting? Anyway, that's all just speculation, what I really need to know is if I'll need to do extensive repair. I was thinking of just putting two more fender washers on either side of the mount - any advice woud be helpful.


If it came to it, could I just weld a large washer on top of what is left there?
Thanks,
Tom

Just welding a washer on there will not fix the problem. looking at the pictures it looks like a metal fatigue problem, things are a little rusty looking there, but nothing that should create any safety issues.

The correct way to repair this is to remove the front cross member from the car. Then you should cut out that top section in a basic geometric shape ( such as a square, etc. Then weld in a new section of steel of the same thickness. I would box in the rear portion of the cross member there to give it additional support. I would also check the other side, and at least box that side in as well.

I would cut out a section something like I have outlined and marked in this pic.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 09-23-2004).]

quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: Just welding a washer on there will not fix the problem. looking at the pictures it looks like a metal fatigue problem, things are a little rusty looking there, but nothing that should create any safety issues. The correct way to repair this is to remove the front cross member from the car. Then you should cut out that top section in a basic geometric shape ( such as a square, etc. Then weld in a new section of steel of the same thickness. I would box in the rear portion of the cross member there to give it additional support. I would also check the other side, and at least box that side in as well.

Damn you da man.

Since you pretty much have to remove the crossmember anyway, I would suggest installing a "new" one that isn't damaged/rusty. That's what I would do.....just my .02 worth.

Either way, good luck with the repair.

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Darn, I was hoping to just weld a washer in there and put on KYB-343127's to get me by for a few years. It looked to me like the shock was not seated on the entire bracket only the slotted part and that caused the failure. If the shock were seated correctly, I don't think it would have fatigued like that. But, it definately could have been. I don't mean to argue as I obviously do not know for sure.
How hard is replacing the front cros member? Is there other stuff attached to it - rack, etc.?

Tom

My turn my turn! The front crossmember is held on by 8 bolts. You do have to disconnect the coolant lines and move them to the side. Also you have the brake calipers that you'd want to wire up so you don't have to disconnect them. The you need to disconnect the steering rack. Remove the spare tire and the tray holding the spare tire and you'll see everything much better. If you just get the crossmember piece you'll have to switch the steering rack, control arms, hubs and spindles, rotors, springs, swaybar. The bolts are on the main part of the frame area. There by the wheel wells.

I have a cross member. If your intrested let me know.
Matt Jackson

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MRJ
My Black 87GT SOLD!!

[This message has been edited by MRJ (edited 09-23-2004).]

quote Originally posted by MRJ: My turn my turn! The front crossmember is held on by 8 bolts. You do have to disconnect the coolant lines and move them to the side. Also you have the brake calipers that you'd want to wire up so you don't have to disconnect them. The you need to disconnect the steering rack. Remove the spare tire and the tray holding the spare tire and you'll see everything much better. If you just get the crossmember piece you'll have to switch the steering rack, control arms, hubs and spindles, rotors, springs, swaybar. The bolts are on the main part of the frame area. There by the wheel wells. I have a cross member. If your intrested let me know. Matt Jackson

you should have two cross members matt.... what happened to the one from the 88GT we parted?

extra parts ROCKS

BTW we are a 4.5 hour drive from cleveland if you ever need big parts, but hte cross member can ship greyhound easily.

matthew

Does anyone have a picture of what the top of the shock tower is supposed to look like?
I might take you up on the cross member; is it in good shape? How much for it? Send me a PM or I will send one to you later.
I still am thinking about repairing it, I was going to eventually overhaul the entire front end, but not for another two or three summer seasons. If I can do something reasonably secure to get me through 2-3 years, I wouldn't mind changing it then when I will be doing all new bushings, strip and paint the control arms, ball joints, etc., etc., etc.

I think I can help you .

You have PM.....

My .02 . . .

DON'T try to fix it.

1. As pointed out before, to repair it correctly you'd need to pull the X-member out anyway.
2. Cost of doing a professional repair is down-time on the car and $. A replacement X-member could be less than the repair.
3. If you have a replacement in hand, you can have it prepped (cleaned, painted, whatever), then pull your X-member out, swap the parts, and reinstall. An easy one day job.

When you're done, it's like it never happened. No worrying about the quality of a repair and no impact on the value of the car.

Good luck.

Neil

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1988 GT, 5-speed, white, beechwood leather, trying to get my 3.4 DOHC put together.

Maybe I'm an old timer, but I would weld the piece back with a big (really big) washer... If a proper bead is used and then ground appropriately, the weld will be as strong or stronger (obviously) than the original metal. (Fudging now...) Still, new stuff would be better.

Gary

quote Originally posted by yosemitefieros: Maybe I'm an old timer, but I would weld the piece back with a big (really big) washer... If a proper bead is used and then ground appropriately, the weld will be as strong or stronger (obviously) than the original metal. (Fudging now...) Still, new stuff would be better. Gary

Gary, That's exactly what I was thinking. I will probably replace the whole setup in 2-3 years when I am in there doing poly bushings, etc. but for the time being I thought more people would agree that it could be very substantially repaired with a thick washer welded in place. Still, if noone agrees I'll just assume I have an old timers mentallity.

[This message has been edited by TG oreiF 8891 (edited 09-23-2004).]

quote Originally posted by yosemitefieros: Maybe I'm an old timer, but I would weld the piece back with a big (really big) washer... If a proper bead is used and then ground appropriately, the weld will be as strong or stronger (obviously) than the original metal. (Fudging now...) Still, new stuff would be better. Gary

ditto with the washer, or find a hunk of steel about the same thickness and make a piece to fit. It would be worth a try IMHO.

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Tim
Red 88 Formula Auto 2.8 100K+ Miles

Logic is a systematic method of coming to the wrong conclusion with confidence!