I seem to remember somone moving the tops of the rear struts on an '88 inward for more camber.

I'm looking to do something similar and i just wondered if the Person who did it had encountered any drawbacks since?

Yes, i have done a search, but being British I'm probably using the wrong nomenclature ;-)

cheers
iain

The Forum member is fieroguru.

Guilty as charged!

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../HTML/000123-12.html

Been that way for 3 years and 36K+ miles. The only downside (if you call it that) is as the suspension approaches full compression, it tucks the top of the wheel in closer to the chassis. With my 18x9.5 45et rear wheels, the top inside of the tire slightly rubs the inside of the wheel well liner. This might not happen if I didn't move the top of the strut (or if I didn't flip the strut hat to increase the range of motion for compression), but the rubbing is very minor and only happens when I completely bottom out the rear suspension. It rubs enough to leave a mark, but not enough to rub through the wheel well liner.

Just curious as to why you need to run that much negative camber?
I can get about 2.5 deg and that is actually a bit too much for autocrossing.
I have it back to 1.5 deg and it likes it.
At more that 2 deg tire wear will be a factor.

Actually, the O/P should have typed 'camber gain'.

Moving top of struts inboard improves rear suspension geometry under compression.

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: Actually, the O/P should have typed 'camber gain'. Moving top of struts inboard improves rear suspension geometry under compression.

Yes, cheers, like I say, British.

Thanks for the link Fieroguru, good to know it works. I won't likely be using more than a 245/255 17" tyre so hopefully rubbing shouldn't be a problem. That's quite an interesting thread,I'll be reading that. The bracket you have there to lower the outer pick up points is better than the one I was playing with. I'm changing engine giving me more scope to raise the inner points, so hopefully I won't need it.

It's mostly going to be a Hillclimb car, not a huge amount of road use mcguiver3. UK tracks are narrow at10-15 feet, so some violent changes of direction. I was running 2 to 2.5 degrees on previous cars to get even tyre temp. I'm not the greatest driver, I tend to have at least one traipsing through the daisies outing per weekend so I don't want to run so stiff I start breaking stuff, or ,make it undriveable on the Scottish tank trap roads.

The 88 rear suspension has its struts closer together,and farther forward to get more caster and camber.This done to lower response time to steer inputs.If you use 88 rear springs you can do this to 84-87 fieros.But because 88 towers are different to get the same displacement you will need to go to coilovers.Unless you modify the towers you can't go wrong.When I put an 88 subframe in my 84 I didn't reshape my towers,but I did move the struts as far forward and together as I could.It helped.