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How To Install The Front Springs 1988 by Shho13
Started on: 10-17-2015 06:34 PM
Replies: 18 (1239 views)
Last post by: Shho13 on 12-18-2017 05:45 AM
Shho13
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Report this Post10-17-2015 06:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Shho13Send a Private Message to Shho13Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Putting new poly bushings and Rodney lowering ball joints in my uncle's Fiero and didn't find anything for us 88 guys on the install of the stock springs specifically for the 88 with a search so I figured I would do a quick writeup on what I did to re install the stock springs. Apparently the lowering springs are easier to install so you probably won't need to do this procedure to get those springs in.

Remember, perform at your own risk! BE CAREFUL AND YOU WILL BE FINE. This is a dangerous way to do it so use caution!

Here is what I used to do the job:
  • Spring compressors from Harbor Freight
  • Rated 700 lbs tie down strap
  • Ratchet
  • Beer
  • Swear Words


The straps from this kit from Harbor Freight for ease of recognition if you choose to go get them for yourself


After hours of trial and error, I found that these four coils are to be compressed. The rubber isolation rubber is on the top of the spring so you can see which ones.


Compressing the spring on those four coils


Here is where it gets tricky. Make sure you compress the spring enough or you will be re attaching the spring compressors. Better to compress more than you think you will need to do it, since what we are about to do is the magic

Wrap the strap around the four compressed coils a few times. I did it three times. Make sure the strap is tight like crazy and do a nice solid double knot! Line up the strap to the BOTTOM END of the spring; where it seats in the lower control arm. VERY IMPORTANT. This is what is going to give the spring the "bend" we need to get it in there with ease.


SLOWLY back off the spring compressors. Keep an eye on the straps to make sure it is solidly holding the compression.

Here you can see the bend that we are going for.


Now we can go back to my uncle's dirty ass lower control arm. Lower the arm as far as it will go.


The goal is to have the spring seated in the arm here.


Aim the bottom part of the spring where it's ultimate goal is and seat the spring up around the lip the upper crossmember.



Now, while holding the spring up where you just seated it around the upper lip, bring the lower control arm up towards the spring. You can tilt the spring towards where it has to go as far as you can without it falling off the upper lip in the crossmember. Use a little bit of force to press the bottom of the spring into that groove where it is supposed to seat. I simply squeeze the back of the spring towards the control arm. My hand is in the position I find it easiest to do that. A screwdriver may help get it over the lip if you can't get it. If you need more of a bend, or a little more of the spring compressed you will find out at this point.


Seated correctly. Make sure it is still sitting around the upper lip in the crossmember as well.


Now take your jack and press the lower control arm up towards the knuckle. Make sure you take off the grease fitting from the bottom of the ball joint!


Make sure you put the lower ball joint back in, tighten to spec and cotter pin (not shown)!



At this point, our best friend, the strap, will be nice and loose around the spring. Simply untie and you are home free!



Now Simply install the rest of the suspension and that's all there is to it!!! Remember to tighten the bushing bolts with a pre load on them, so put the jack under the control arm and jack until the car starts lifting off the stands. Tighten the control arm bushing bolts, then drop the jack.

BTW, the ball joints are completely welded in because the hole for them was rounded out. Didn't even need a ball joint press to seat them all the way. The previous owner didn't tack weld the old ones in so they popped out and they were flopping around in there causing drifting at highway speeds.

Wrench on everyone!

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Red 1988 GT under restoration!

Let's Go Mets!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

[This message has been edited by Shho13 (edited 10-17-2015).]

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fierosound
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Report this Post10-18-2015 10:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
88 has the shock mounted inside the coil through a hole in the bottom of the lower control arm.
I'd think you could use a coil spring compressor that fits inside the coil?


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Report this Post10-18-2015 01:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mrfieroSend a Private Message to mrfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nice write up, although have never used a spring compressor on the front springs. My method is to seat the upper part of the spring then pull the lower control arm up enough to get a floor jack underneath it. I then slowly raise the jack as I push the spring into the lower pocket. It won't seat all the way by itself (or with just pushing it), but when there is enough upward pressure from the floor jack to hold the spring in place I just kick it in with my foot. One or two good kicks and it seats. Then you slowly lower the jack so you can spin the spring around to lock it into the correct orientation. After that bolt the ball joint to the knuckle and you're done.

Of course, it is a moot point when you have lowered springs. I don't even need spring compressors on the rear struts anymore.



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Patrick
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Report this Post10-18-2015 03:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mrfiero:

...when there is enough upward pressure from the floor jack to hold the spring in place I just kick it in with my foot. One or two good kicks and it seats.


That's my method as well, although it might be worthwhile to mention that the "kicking" is done while sitting on one's ass (on the ground) with feet towards the car, as opposed to trying to stand and kick the spring into place.

From the following thread - You Have Any Tips for Installing Stock Front Springs? I was describing the process used for '84-'87 springs, but it's not a whole lot different for '88.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

First of all, it's a heck of a lot easier putting lowering springs in, or the stock springs back in with a coil or two removed.

However...

Obviously make sure the lower control arm is hanging down as far as it will go... shock disconnected, sway bar/end links disconnected, knuckle disconnected, upper control arm/knuckle out of the way. Step on the end of the lower control arm and force it down. Make sure the car is high enough so that the ground doesn't get in the way of the control arm pivoting down.

Slide the spring up over the cone at the top, and while sitting on your ass on the ground facing the whole mess, kick the hell out of the lower part of the spring until you force it over the hump in the lower control arm and it sprongs into place.

It helps greatly to yell obscenities while you're doing it.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-18-2015).]

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FTF Engineering
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Report this Post10-18-2015 08:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FTF EngineeringSend a Private Message to FTF EngineeringEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:
I'd think you could use a coil spring compressor that fits inside the coil?


I bought one for that exact reason and never had the need to try it. Seems like you could grab at least three coils, maybe four. It might not be enough to get the spring to completely fall out of place, but it should take a lot of the pressure off and make the job a lot easier.

Anyone actually give one of those inside the spring compressor a try on their 88?

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David Hambleton
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Report this Post10-18-2015 09:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Similar idea here; no kicking or forcing needed.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/136267.html
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lateFormula
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Report this Post10-20-2015 11:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lateFormulaSend a Private Message to lateFormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

88 has the shock mounted inside the coil through a hole in the bottom of the lower control arm.
I'd think you could use a coil spring compressor that fits inside the coil?






Won't work. You cannot get the compressor out of the spring once the lower control arm is back in position.
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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post10-20-2015 11:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:
Won't work. You cannot get the compressor out of the spring once the lower control arm is back in position.


84 to 87 - no

BUT - yes it will work on the 88's - the arms that grab onto the spring fold down and there is enough room to get it out of the shock hole (I used this type when I did my 88 suspension).
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Report this Post10-21-2015 07:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lateFormulaSend a Private Message to lateFormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:
84 to 87 - no

BUT - yes it will work on the 88's - the arms that grab onto the spring fold down and there is enough room to get it out of the shock hole (I used this type when I did my 88 suspension).


Maybe - depends on the size of the spring compressor. I completely rebuilt the suspension on my 88 and the internal spring compressor I bought would not come out the shock hole (too big). Another option that will work is a single action clamshell spring compressor, although you will only be able to compress like three coils of the spring. But if you really compress it down, it will allow enough clearance to seat the spring in the pocket on the LCA.
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Report this Post10-22-2015 01:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:

Maybe - depends on the size of the spring compressor. I completely rebuilt the suspension on my 88 and the internal spring compressor I bought would not come out the shock hole (too big). .


So the problem was the particular tool you bought.
I should be easy enough to check if it fits through the hole before it installing on the spring.
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Report this Post10-24-2015 03:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for larry mimbsSend a Private Message to larry mimbsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Or you can drop the a-frame at the shaft end instead of the ball joint end. Then just sit the a-frame on a floor jack, sit the spring in place and jack it up. Much safer and easier. (Look at the different lever lengths.)
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Report this Post10-24-2015 05:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by larry mimbs:

Or you can drop the a-frame at the shaft end instead of the ball joint end.


Isn't that the method that the factory manual shows?

Interesting that the much more common way for backyard mechanics to gain access to the springs is to pop the lower ball joint instead.
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Shho13
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Report this Post10-25-2015 01:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Shho13Send a Private Message to Shho13Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by larry mimbs:

Or you can drop the a-frame at the shaft end instead of the ball joint end. Then just sit the a-frame on a floor jack, sit the spring in place and jack it up. Much safer and easier. (Look at the different lever lengths.)


Believe me, I tried doing it by leaving the ball joint on and jacking it up towards the ear flaps or whatever they are called and I couldn't get the damn thing to line up back in the holes no matter how hard I tried.

As for the method of just kicking it in place with no straps; It seemed way to long of a spring to be able to do that... I tried to get it in without compressing it and I just couldn't get it in there.

Not saying the other ways are wrong... I just didn't have any luck with those techniques.

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Red 1988 GT under restoration!

Let's Go Mets!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

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Patrick
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Report this Post10-25-2015 04:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Shho13:

As for the method of just kicking it in place with no straps; It seemed way to long of a spring to be able to do that... I tried to get it in without compressing it and I just couldn't get it in there.


You just need to be wearing heavier boots.

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Report this Post10-25-2015 08:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
An internal spring compressor makes the job extremely easy.
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Report this Post11-05-2015 03:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mrstanSend a Private Message to mrstanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just went through this in rebuilding my front end here. I did nearly the same process, but could not get the coil to "bend" enough to fit back into the lower arm and cross-member. I used only one coil compressor and put next to the end of the spring bottom and crunched it down into the shape of a comma. I then tied a tie-down strap around the coils, weaving in and out back and forth so that they did not span the void and bump into the back of the control arm/cross-member environment. The compressor was eased up and I immediately popped the spring into position, letting off on the jack slowly until no stress was on the strap enough to remove... It seemed to me that one compressor worked much better than both for this instance since the curve is what is being sought... I kept my eye on it too incase it began shifting off the coil, and I took no time in popping it in as well.. This kind of thing makes me nervous I suppose.

What a PAIN!.. but it worked like a charm!
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Report this Post11-06-2015 11:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

An internal spring compressor makes the job extremely easy.


Agreed. It's worth getting one to give it a try...
I wish I could use one on the 84-87 models, but you'd have to cut a hole in the center of the spring pad in the lower control arm to do so.

Look at the tools you can rent Free from AutoZone.
http://www.autozone.com/lan...jsp?name=loan-a-tool

Spring compressor in in bottom left corner.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 11-06-2015).]

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Report this Post12-17-2017 07:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Red88GT_KYSend a Private Message to Red88GT_KYEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the great post. This worked perfect. I tried the internal spring compressor total fail. There was no way I could get the spring even close enough to the LCA spring pocket to force it in by kicking or any other means. Your method is so simple I have no idea why anyone would do any thing different. Oh, I didn't even have to use the last item on your list of items required for the job.
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Shho13
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Report this Post12-18-2017 05:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Shho13Send a Private Message to Shho13Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm happy the write up helped!



------------------
"Discord"
Red 1988 GT under restoration!

Let's Go Mets!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

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