Hello, I have a few questions, I have gone to Archies web site and looked at the links for the directions, and install, but the photo's are small and hard to see the detail for the questions I have..
#1 the directions say to put the alt, a/c v belt pulley on the crank balancer (this is taken from the link on the site)

---------" Install the harmonic balancer pulley to the engine as close as possible to the timing chain cover with out rubbing against it. Usually the distance from the face of the pulley to the end of the crank will be about .300". "
I can't tell by the photo's but it sounds like the v belt pulley is going over the balancer outside diameter, and not bolted onto the front face of it, like most crank pulleys, is this the case, if so how does this clear the timing pointer on timng covers, or the bolt on type?? and what size diameter is the balancer used, ?? my engine I'd use for this was balanced with the balancer on it now, and the swap kits list a balancer as part of the parts list.. so need a little help with the details on that..


#2 oil pans, what fits, most small block chevy's have a 4qt pan, the 2nd gen vette pans are 6qt and truck pans are 5-6qt but have a longer sump what have you used, I ask as the duke had low qt oil pan so!!!!!!!!!!

#3 flex plates the parts list ,list a flex plate and a flexplate adapter, is the flexplate a standard chevy plate and the adapter bolts between that and the torque converter, or is the flexplate supplied different than the chevy piece, ??

#4 what transaxle does this work with?? just the th125 or does the 4t40 (not 100% that that is the model of the 4 speed swapped into these to replace the 3 speed ), ???


#5 has anyone measured the crank centerline, to the decklid underside?? this help know if the intake will clear without mods

#6 starters, there was a tilton and a powermaster listed from what I've seen, has anyone used any other starters with good luck, like say the 90's g.m. gear reduction starter, used on trucks .

#7 exhaust the photo's it looks like g.m. early vette /truck ram horn center dump manifolds are they, and has anyone used block hugger type headers? the heads on this engine I'd like to use have large ports and angle plugs..

#8 The links on his site show a a/c compressor bracket, is this a have to use part or just included for those with a/c..

#9 water pumps, the site photo isn't clear is it a short pump or the 70 up car long pump ?

#9B has anyone tried an electric water pump instead of the mechanical pump and it's long drive system??

#10 springs,(rates) what have people use to hold up the extra weight at the rear..


#11 will the 84 wiring get in the way

Thanks for any info on this.. so I know what I'm in for, and if requirements will make it a "no go" with the engine on hand ..

[This message has been edited by E.Furgal (edited 02-03-2015).]

The site still list the Address not as los vegas.
does he have a new site, or is this just not updated..

http://www.v8archie.com/v8Archie/ToC0.htm

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: ---------" Install the harmonic balancer pulley to the engine as close as possible to the timing chain cover with out rubbing against it. Usually the distance from the face of the pulley to the end of the crank will be about .300". " I can't tell by the photo's but it sounds like the v belt pulley is going over the balancer outside diameter, and not bolted onto the front face of it, like most crank pulleys, is this the case, if so how does this clear the timing pointer on timng covers, or the bolt on type?? and what size diameter is the balancer used, ?? my engine I'd use for this was balanced with the balancer on it now, and the swap kits list a balancer as part of the parts list.. so need a little help with the details on that..

The Archie balancer has the V-belt pulley integrated into the outer balancer ring... so its all one piece (left balancer in the pic, the serpentine options are the others - more details here:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/118182.html )

Unless your engine is a 383 or 400 sbc, then the balancer should be neutral balanced, same as the Archie balancer.

Lots of options with timing marks, but the ones on the top of the balancer are hard to see with everything installed. I either add a different pointer, or make a new mark on the front engine mount to identify TDC and have a timing light with an adjusting dial to see what the timing is. Some mark the flywheel and transmission case so they can check the timing with the car in the air.

Here are a couple of timing mark examples:

The notch for TDC is on the AC bracket as well as the balancer:

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #2 oil pans, what fits, most small block chevy's have a 4qt pan, the 2nd gen vette pans are 6qt and truck pans are 5-6qt but have a longer sump what have you used, I ask as the duke had low qt oil pan so!!!!!!!!!!

Most SBC's have a 5 quart oil pan... never found one that didn't fit. Use whatever pan is on the engine and you should be good to go.

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #3 flex plates the parts list ,list a flex plate and a flexplate adapter, is the flexplate a standard chevy plate and the adapter bolts between that and the torque converter, or is the flexplate supplied different than the chevy piece, ??

For the Archie auto kit, it uses a fiero sized 142 tooth flex plate and had a crankshaft adapter that bolts to the SBC crankshaft and accepts the smaller 142 tooth Fiero flex plate. The SBC 153 tooth flex plate will not clear the automatic transmission case, so it can be used. The torque converter bolts to the fiero style flex plate just like stock.

If you had your rotating assembly balanced with a SBC flex plate and they added or removed metal from it, you should consider having it done again with the flex plate in the Archie kit.

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #4 what transaxle does this work with?? just the th125 or does the 4t40 (not 100% that that is the model of the 4 speed swapped into these to replace the 3 speed ), ???

The kit was designed around the 125C, but has also been used with the 4T60, and the 4T65e-hd (with minor work).

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #5 has anyone measured the crank centerline, to the decklid underside?? this help know if the intake will clear without mods

I never measured this, always bottom of the cradle to crankshaft centerline. I like my engines low, so most were installed about 8 3/8" from the bottom of the cradle (some mods required), but Archie's instructions will have them mounted higher.

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #6 starters, there was a tilton and a powermaster listed from what I've seen, has anyone used any other starters with good luck, like say the 90's g.m. gear reduction starter, used on trucks .

Stick with the tilton or powermaster starters, there is very little room for anything else, especially with the auto kits and the 142 tooth flex plate.

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #7 exhaust the photo's it looks like g.m. early vette /truck ram horn center dump manifolds are they, and has anyone used block hugger type headers? the heads on this engine I'd like to use have large ports and angle plugs..

Block hugger headers come too close to the block and will interfere with the automatic transmission. They also can have clearance issues with the alternator. Rams Horns, Speedway Motors Tru-Rams, Stock 81 Corvette tubular headers, Sanderson C90 and CC2 headers, and two early 90's Camaro LT1 DS stock exhaust manifolds all work with the auto

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #8 The links on his site show a a/c compressor bracket, is this a have to use part or just included for those with a/c..

Use of A/C or the supplied A/C bracket is not required.

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #9 water pumps, the site photo isn't clear is it a short pump or the 70 up car long pump ?

Its the short water pump.

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #9B has anyone tried an electric water pump instead of the mechanical pump and it's long drive system??

Most people run electric pumps these days and usually remote mount it to the chassis vs. on the engine. To do so you need to buy/make/modify fittings to bolt to the block and run hoses to the electric pump.

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #10 springs,(rates) what have people use to hold up the extra weight at the rear..

275 lbs/in to 350 lbs/in is the normal range for those who go to coil overs. With the auto, I would suggest 325 to 375 lbs/in.

quote Originally posted by E.Furgal: #11 will the 84 wiring get in the way

It certainly isn't in a very good or cool spot (inches from the exhaust manifold), so it would be wise to relocate the 500 connector inside the center console or over to the strut tower like the 85+ cars.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 02-03-2015).]

Thanks, this engine is set up to run 9000rpm, so the balancer on it, would be nice to use.. not say'n archies ones isn't a good piece, but at that rpm, I don't like the idea of a balancer with a rubber spaced ring.. it's not needed for the short block balance, but more for safety ,
could always use the waterpump drive to turn the alt. also.. if mounted on the a/c compressor bracket, how deep is the waterpump cog belt pulley?

[This message has been edited by E.Furgal (edited 02-03-2015).]

Amazing. All questions answered, with pics, within 2 hours of the original posting. Kudos to fieroguru!

[This message has been edited by David Hambleton (edited 02-03-2015).]