My son has an 88 base coupe. It had aftermarket wheels on it when we bought it. We found a set of stock wheels and one has a bit of clear peeling off. I was in the garage and tried to polish the bare spot with some White Diamond and it polished to adamn near chrome finish. Now I want to do all of the wheels like this. I tried soda blasting, walnut, and even sand blasting. That clear coat is tough!!!!! Any suggestions on how I can remove the clear without ruining the wheels. If there are no magic solutions, I guess I'll just have to sand them the old fashioned way. Any help would be appreciated.
You know what's pretty sad? I work in a chemical manufacturing plant, and we make a paint stripper and never thought to use that. I'm gonna get a can and try it out. I was worried that I might damage the aluminium underneath or maybe discolor it. I guess I'll try just a bit in a small area and see how it goes. Thanks.
I guess I'll try just a bit in a small area and see how it goes.
Sure, try it on the back of the wheel first. I suspect you'll see it's fine.
By the way, the reason I recommended the "gel" version of stripper is that it stays where you put it and won't simply run to the low points on the applied surface.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-19-2015).]
I use and recommend 'Aircraft' stripper too. Use the cans, not the aerosol. I put on one coat, let it set, scratch it up with a wire brush, then do a second coat. The wire brush will make small scratches in the clear to allow it to penetrate better. Sometimes you may even need a 3rd or 4th coat. Follow that with power washing. I go to the local car wash. Wear eye protection because if it splashes, it will burn your eyes. Keep your car far back as any specks will pit the paint on it. Then I go home and wash them down with a scotchbrite pad and lacquer thinner to remove any remaining traces of paint and stripper. Wash it down again. After they dry, you can sand any flaws or scratches out with wet/dry sandpaper. I use regular rubbing compound to bring the shine up where I want it. You can make them look like chrome or not. I like the satin machined look myself, so I go in one direction on them with a dry scotchbrite that does that well. I NEVER put new clearcoat on them. Same thing will just happen again. I just keep them clean and maybe repolish them once a year or so. By NOT clearing them, you can always fix a spot or clean them up again anytime. I drive my cars all year, even in snow and salt. Yes they will dull if you do that and dont keep them clean often...but they are easy to clean back up. With clear, when it goes again, you just have to restrip them all over again to fix anything.
Well, I felt a little better about the thought of using chemical stripper after the replies. I am happy to report that it worked great! I used one of the products we make at work and it cleaned the clear right off. I did use the aerosol since I have free access to dented or scratched cans. It took about an hour to completely strip two wheels. I'll do the others tomorrow. It took two coats on one and three on the other, but it worked. Thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate it.
One big tub and 2 gallons of aircraft stripper will do 6 stock rims.I did it outside with a brass brissle brush and a power washer. Gauntlet gloves because the stripper stings. I had 4 rims powder coated and thay came out very good.
Do what they do prepping aircraft, Mask off where you dont want stripped with 'metal' duct type tape. Its the same stuff you use to patch rust holes before bondo. Its in hardware stores cheaper though, for furnace ducting. The stripper cant go thru it. If you need to protect it wider than the tape, use tinfoil like masking paper...just dont leave any holes or gaps for stripper to get thru. Wash it off as soon as you can so it dont bleed into edges. Thats how we keep stripper off of aircraft plastic and fiberglass parts and plexiglass windows. Legally, if you get stripper on plastic parts of aircraft, including windows, the parts must be replaced to pass inspection.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-25-2015).]
I'd strip the whole wheel, polish the part of the wheel you want to shine , then clean them really well and have the wheels re-cleared at a body shop that can bake the clear after sprayed, or have them power coated clear .
But I understand he wants to keep the original color on the centers, not strip that.
Baking in a booth only makes the paint dry faster so they can get it out sooner than air drying...not tougher. If you want to reclear them, do go with clear powder coating. I never reclear a wheel after I went to all the trouble of stripping them because the same thing that made you strip them in the first place will just happen again sooner or later. All not clearing means is you have to take the time to keep them cleaner. For example if they ever put on clip on weights, you already have a cut in the paint to start corrosion all over again. Same thing happens if you get stone chips...and wheels do get pelted with grit all the time. All just my opinion and you can take it or leave it.
