Well, this is new. Just noticed the voltmeter needle will deflect slightly, but very visibly, with every audible click of the turn signal indicator. What's up with that?
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My rides... 1988 GT with a 3.4L V6 automatic 2006 Harley Sportster 'cause I love the twisties on two wheels or four.
Pretty common. The voltmeter is fed by the GAGE fuse, very small diameter wire, and measures the voltage of the electrical system, rather than only BATTERY voltage.
Originally posted by J Gunsett: Install LEDs in the turn signals.
No. First Fix any wiring problems. Turning on turn signal draws ~7 amps w/ OE bulbs... The meter shows volts at the dash as said above. Brake and HL likely shows same or more voltage drop on dash meter. Weird volt meter is a symptom of many ground issues that can, often does, effect the whole car. Likely several cables/wires and grounds are loose, corroded, etc, and will get worse. See my Cave, Wire Service
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Just started doing this? Usually doesnt start out of the blue unless you just never noticed it before until now. Since you have 88 the CS alternator style is less prone to this, but you might have weak battery, initial signs of failing alternator, or weak belt but that shold be squealing if it was not catching.
Just started doing this? Usually doesnt start out of the blue unless you just never noticed it before until now. Since you have 88 the CS alternator style is less prone to this, but you might have weak battery, initial signs of failing alternator, or weak belt but that shold be squealing if it was not catching.
Yep. Just started recently. I bought a length of ground strap yesterday. I hope to install that this weekend as suggested above. I also want to track down, clean and re-tighten all the grounds listed in the Ogre's chart. Hoping that will clear up a couple of other minor annoyances as well.
I had this problem an ran all the extra grounds that everyone had suggested. It did not help. Found the problem on mine was on the positive side. The one smaller single wire coming off the battery to the distribution block near the battery had a corroded connection. This wire supplies all the positive side for everything in the car except for the starter. The heavy cable is only for the starter the smaller one carries the load for everything. I cut mine out and installed a new much heavier wire. No more pulsing volt meter, no more bouncing oil pressure, all lights much brighter, power windows much faster, smoother idle. Might be worth looking at.
Originally posted by 1Packrat: I had this problem an ran all the extra grounds that everyone had suggested. It did not help. Found the problem on mine was on the positive side. The one smaller single wire coming off the battery to the distribution block near the battery had a corroded connection. This wire supplies all the positive side for everything in the car except for the starter. The heavy cable is only for the starter the smaller one carries the load for everything. I cut mine out and installed a new much heavier wire. No more pulsing volt meter, no more bouncing oil pressure, all lights much brighter, power windows much faster, smoother idle. Might be worth looking at.
Not really.... Is wire to/from the battery. ALT output wire connects both lugs at distribution block is most power to everything when engine is running. I would clean up and silicon grease the dist bock.
Wire to the battery will cause problem because battery job to keep car volts stable. also Bad wire can cause problem charge the battery.
Iffy Alt or alt wiring can do this too. See my Cave, Alternator Sense
I had this problem an ran all the extra grounds that everyone had suggested. It did not help. Found the problem on mine was on the positive side. The one smaller single wire coming off the battery to the distribution block near the battery had a corroded connection. This wire supplies all the positive side for everything in the car except for the starter. The heavy cable is only for the starter the smaller one carries the load for everything. I cut mine out and installed a new much heavier wire. No more pulsing volt meter, no more bouncing oil pressure, all lights much brighter, power windows much faster, smoother idle. Might be worth looking at.
Its not a problem that needs fixed. You will also note that turning on headlites, ac/heat fan, also do the same thing. Ive had quite a few cars that did it, lots that didnt. It was never any kind of problem. I believe in not fixing whats not broke. It can never hurt to have too many grounds on a plastic car though.
Originally posted by rogergarrison: Its not a problem that needs fixed. You will also note that turning on headlites, ac/heat fan, also do the same thing. Ive had quite a few cars that did it, lots that didnt. It was never any kind of problem. I believe in not fixing whats not broke. It can never hurt to have too many grounds on a plastic car though.
Dash Volt meters can drop a bit even when the system is perfect. When you see volt drops on many dash meters, is often a symptom something is a problem. You can check w/ a real volt meter.
Voltage drops (wiki) can be many places at once or just one loose/rotted connection or wire.