Hello everyone, i daily drive my fiero to work and noticed lately it doesn't seem to be getting up to operating temp. Just some background I drive a 85 2m4 with the 5sp and the 4cyl duke. I live in North Pole, Alaska. And work in Fairbanks, Alaska. The temps have been dropping (its 0F) right now. It's about a 16 mile drive of steady 55-65 depending on the roads. When I get home the needle isn't even on the mark in between 100 and 220. Any suggestions on where it should be? I will probably put a new thermostat in it if there's one at the napa here. I also have most of my radiator blocked off (it's an arctic thing lol). It's hard finding the answer online because everyone always has overheating problems. Thanks everyone
Not like it was last year when my friend owned it, it would cook you when it was -30. It seems just recently it started. I used to have to open a window on my way home and now heat is on the entire time
I had a heat issue last winter. Ended up being my heater core had a very small leak in it. Car never overheated and the temps were below normal, but would not heat up the car for anything. take a peek at yours and check its condition.
Thank you, I went with the napa #264, it's a 195 degree and appears to of been on the shelf for awhile. Also made in USA. It's all they had and I don't go into town till later on. Installing now, I'll let you know the results. The guy always gives me a good price at napa because he thinks my car is cool lol
Old one I could still open with my finger, still put the new one in and no results. Leaning towards the heater core. I'm not leaking coolant so it may be plugged up. Anyone want to give me some insite for tearing into it in the morning? I am a confident mechanic and have a factory service manual for the fiero. I just like knowing what I'm getting into. Better hurry it's going to be -15 tonight.
...put the new one in and no results. Leaning towards the heater core. I'm not leaking coolant so it may be plugged up.
I'm missing something here. How would a plugged heater core prevent the engine from reaching operating temperature? If anything, it might accelerate the process!
quote
Originally posted by Brendo907:
i daily drive my fiero to work and noticed lately it doesn't seem to be getting up to operating temp.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-05-2014).]
Is it possible that I need to burp the system? If I have read right that usually causes overheating. When I blocked off my radiator, I added a little coolant to be sure I'm up to a 40/60 mixture because sometimes I park outside and -50 isn't uncommon. Actually most places don't even sell 50/50 coolant because of freezing. The joys of being up north.
Even in winter, Duke should be at full temp after 15 minutes. It is pretty rock steady at 195 while driving. It will go up if moving very slow and/or idling.
If yours failed in the open position, you are lucky. Mine failed in the closed position on the coldest day of the year a couple years back. Just seemed weird to have an over heating car, when it was 2 below zero outside. Duke Thermostat, easy to change. One of the nicer things about the Duke.
Does sound like a thermostat, most will fail in the open position to prevent overheating.
Most thermostats fail in the CLOSED position, not in the OPEN position. There are Fail-safe thermostats that do remain open when an overheating condition arises.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000009.html Follow this guide to check your heater core, before you pull off the lines do a visual inspection of the system. I'm not saying this is your problem but when I had no heat it was my problem.
I was told the temp gauge may not read right and I'm not sure how to accurately tell without hooking up a new gauge and probe.
You need to connect a scanner or a computer (with the proper cable and software) to your Fiero's ALDL port. This will tell you what temperature the engine is actually reaching (along with a lot of other helpful data).
I like the ohm meter, thank you for that. I drove part way home last night in 4th at about 3k, it didn't change anything, I tried driving with the heat on, didn't change anything. When the needle gets to just below the first mark it stays there, it doesn't fluctuate at all. I can also see my mileage isn't what it was a few months ago which leads me to believe it's not hitting operating temp, too bad the gauge isn't just messed up
I took the new thermostat out, stuck my finger down there hoping to find an old o ring or something, nothing. I put it back in and was very sure it's seated properly. I'm going to remove my radiator block off just so I have everything like it was. This is such an off problem :/
If heater... Heater core or output port on engine can be blocked. See my Cave, Heater and rest of coolant section.
Never trust dash gauge. Scan ALDL data or try using IR thermometer or contact thermocouple. if using Ohm, make sure is right sensor... Gauge sender are different than ECT sensor. Use ECT sensor and data from FSM in my cave, Sensors Quick Ref
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Alright so get this, I un blocked my radiator, on my way to work and in 5 minutes of driving (10 min or so warming up, how ever long it took me to make a lunch) my needle was at the mark in between 100 and 220, heat was warm. And I had to turn it on low because it was too hot. I guess this problem did start when I blocked it off. Strange creatures. It did just stay steady on that line, so are we good? I think the dash gauge is just wrong
Originally posted by Brendo907: Alright so get this, I un blocked my radiator, on my way to work and in 5 minutes of driving (10 min or so warming up, how ever long it took me to make a lunch) my needle was at the mark in between 100 and 220, heat was warm. And I had to turn it on low because it was too hot. I guess this problem did start when I blocked it off. Strange creatures. It did just stay steady on that line, so are we good? I think the dash gauge is just wrong
Maybe... I have ALDL scanner reporting 210°F but Dash gauges well below 200. This is today when working on engine. Gauge on Dash are famous lairs. Oil gauge too... Oil sender is 0-90Ω but fixed 82Ω will almost peg my gauge.
Normal Tstat can make engine temp to rise/fall by itself. Stant SuperStant helps that. See my Cave, Thermostat
I've been reading through your cave, that's a nice collection of information your sharing. I'll have to see if I can track down one of those scanners, I don't even know if auto parts stores have them/ know how to use them
USB or maybe Bluetooth are best Can make or buy serial cable but many serial ports on laptops etc have trouble with odd bit rates used in GM ECM/PCM. The chip set in many PC are the problem.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-06-2014).]
Figured id re visit this one with an update... Still not much for heat, it's decent and I have tried a few thermostats now and have a 195 in there. I think I will install an actual coolant temp gauge and if it reads higher than my dash then I will possibly head towards a heater core. It's -42 outside right now and heat is kinda nice! I made sure the mixing door cable moved freely aswell. Any other tips? Thanks again everyone
Coolant is full, It never gets warm enough to kick the fan on and I didn't really drive it this summer so not sure if it does or not, I'll find out in a few months. I'll try popping the cover off under the dash and see if there's junk in there
Good info, I pulled the blower and the resistor and found it completely clean in there. I'll get to the core tommorow, I ran out of time before work. I found my heat was ok ish running on the second fan speed, any higher and it cools down.
