I am trying to find out how to make a 2.5 "A" block work for my 87. Its the water pump that has me screwed. Everything I read says it works but don't say how any help would be great thanks.
Every so often, somebody will come on here and claim the S10 block is stronger, and that it should be used in every 2.5 Fiero. These people are idiots who have not done it before themselves.
As you've so keenly noted, there is no place to hang the water pump off the side of the block. S10s have FEAD brackets in this location and there is no hole.
Every so often, somebody will come on here and claim the S10 block is stronger, and that it should be used in every 2.5 Fiero. These people are idiots who have not done it before themselves.
As you've so keenly noted, there is no place to hang the water pump off the side of the block. S10s have FEAD brackets in this location and there is no hole.
FEAD? sorry not familiar with that. didn't some of the 2.5s have a plate that bolted over the FWD water pump mount hole and the belt tensioner plugged the RWD water pump hole. or am i way off base?
I have read that the vin "a" or "e" blocks were stronger, i had read that they were cast a little thicker and the cranks were heavier. they did have to work harder in the trucks. but i don't think (couldn't find this out ever) they were drilled on the side for the crank sensor needed for 87/88.
There are a number of Different 2.5 Blocks. about 10 years ago, I had my first fiero & it needed an engine, I got one from the u pull from a grand am, then a Camaro, then s-10, had them" in a line" with the original Fiero engine,. Different Mount "mounting pad"s, different water pump, 1 in front, 1 on the side. WHY GM couldn't have cast 1 Block with ALL the mounts& a "universal Bell housing pattern" is beyond me. (" designing, tooling &Casting" 5 different blocks for a 2.5 seems like a major waste of $$. ) Getting a replacement BLOCK can be a pain. Take a lot of PICTURES of your old block before buying a replacement.
There are a number of Different 2.5 Blocks. about 10 years ago, I had my first fiero & it needed an engine, I got one from the u pull from a grand am, then a Camaro, then s-10, had them" in a line" with the original Fiero engine,. Different Mount "mounting pad"s, different water pump, 1 in front, 1 on the side. WHY GM couldn't have cast 1 Block with ALL the mounts& a "universal Bell housing pattern" is beyond me. (" designing, tooling &Casting" 5 different blocks for a 2.5 seems like a major waste of $$. ) Getting a replacement BLOCK can be a pain. Take a lot of PICTURES of your old block before buying a replacement.
You been drinking?
As Kurt said, this conversation comes up over and over and over again... and then new people think the old people are just being closed minded... sigh. Wash. Rinse. Repeat.
thanks for the post. I am not sure why its on here twice? So from the way this all sounds it seems that no one has figured out how to make it work. I have some time for it so I am going to look at making a mod off the cover plate or just go with electric.
FEAD? sorry not familiar with that. didn't some of the 2.5s have a plate that bolted over the FWD water pump mount hole and the belt tensioner plugged the RWD water pump hole. or am i way off base?
I have read that the vin "a" or "e" blocks were stronger, i had read that they were cast a little thicker and the cranks were heavier. they did have to work harder in the trucks. but i don't think (couldn't find this out ever) they were drilled on the side for the crank sensor needed for 87/88.
FEAD is industry term for "Front Engine Accessory Drive"
On the S10 the "would-be" water pump area is instead bosses for either an idler pulley (or the Power steering pump, if equipped)
Also, before you go to the effort of "making the S10 block work" you should really look at the main webs and overall block thickness as compared to a Fiero VIN R block.
Seriously, take the oil pans off of both, pull the cranks out of both, and tell me if you see anything different enough to make it worth the effort.
OK so I jumped over to some s10 forums and all information leads to yes the E and A blocks were cast thicker but I will measure them when I pull mine out. Not today though 8 degrees is cold.
OK so I jumped over to some s10 forums and all information leads to yes the E and A blocks were cast thicker but I will measure them when I pull mine out. Not today though 8 degrees is cold.
Just a hint... it's already been done and no appreciable difference was found.
I have a complete 88 duke engine with about 70k and a freshly redone top end. If you would be interested in purchasing the engine (trans is also available) contact me via PM.
I am trying to find out how to make a 2.5 "A" block work for my 87. Its the water pump that has me screwed. Everything I read says it works but don't say how any help would be great thanks.
It's not just the water pump that has you screwed, there's also no place to mount the crank position sensor for the coilpacks.
Did your 87 block fail?
[This message has been edited by KurtAKX (edited 01-24-2014).]
Is the cam drive not a simple 2:1 ratio? Seems like it would be trivial to make an adapter driven by the cam in place of the crank reluctor. Especially since the duke has a gear driven cam.
Is the cam drive not a simple 2:1 ratio? Seems like it would be trivial to make an adapter driven by the cam in place of the crank reluctor. Especially since the duke has a gear driven cam.
yes it would be possible, and has been done. IMO the signal wont be as accurate as reading it straight off the crank. i have seen several different systems, for sbc and hondas, to convert them to dis but you would have to create a trigger wheel that the ecm understands.
[This message has been edited by conan469 (edited 01-27-2014).]
