I have been searching and reading and I have not seen this problem before.

The led amber rear turn signals work fine. I have 2 electronic flashers (1 for the indicators and 1 for the 4-way)
I'm hoping load resistors will solve this problem.

The Fiero in question is a low milage 1988 GT.

[This message has been edited by SomeNewGuy (edited 01-01-2014).]

Read lighting section of my cave. start w/ LED Marker Light

Use PFF search, tech and general, for LED. click by date for recent posts.
Fiero should (Edit> )not need resistors. If used anyway, You only use them on the rear.

You could have ground problem. See my Cave, Sneak Path

Put a jumper in flasher socket while trying to find a ground problem.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-01-2014).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: Fiero should need resistors. You only use them on the rear.

What resistors would you say are needed?

My old thread here mentioned resistors but sounded like a certain electronic flasher eliminated the need? A Variable load flasher.
I still havent installed LEDS, but have gathered most items I think I will need.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/091683.html

Heres another quite old thread
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...020825-2-021241.html

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 12-31-2013).]

Thanks for the input Ogre and 2.5
With the original bulbs everything works as it should.
When I change to LED's is when the problems start.
I'm hoping someone replies and says I have seen this exact problem before and here is the fix.

[This message has been edited by SomeNewGuy (edited 01-01-2014).]

. nm

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 12-31-2013).]

quote Originally posted by SomeNewGuy: Thanks for the input Ogre and 2.5 With the original bulbs everything works as it should. When I change to LED's is when the problems start. I'm hoping someone replies and says I have seen this exact problem before and here is the fix.

Do you know if your flashers are variable?
Have you removed the 3rd brake light bulb in the rear window to see if things then work? That is said to cause probs if it remains incandescent. Are your tail or brake bulbs LED too?

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 12-31-2013).]

Actually the 3rd brake light was relocated under the rear spoiler, and right now is disconnected as I am waiting for a red Led strip to arrive.
The Led's are not variable. The electronic flashers (speed is fixed not variable) operate at different speeds with same results when swapped. ( I prefer the faster flash for turn indication)
The rear lights are amber for the indicators and red for parking and brake are all Led.

[This message has been edited by SomeNewGuy (edited 01-01-2014).]

How did you change them to LEDs?

"When converting a vehicle for use with LED Turn Signal bulbs, it is often not enough to simply replace the regular incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. In many cases, you will have to either replace the car's flasher module, or trick the flasher module into thinking that there are "regular" bulbs in your car...

An LED bulb only consumes a very small amount of electrical current. The turn signal flasher (if it's a regular "thermal" flasher) was designed for bulbs that consume a lot of power: The power consumed by the bulb runs through the flasher and heats up a bimetal switch. When the bimetal deforms from the heat, it breaks the circuit (causing your lamp to go off), this causes the switch to cool down and go back to it's original shape (it will close the circuit again, the lights come on, the switch heats up, and the cycle begins again).

If the amount of power going though the switch is very little, not enough heat is generated in the flasher to cause the bimetal to bend. The most common symptom is that your turn signal lights simply stay on. If you run a MIX of regular and LED bulbs (say regular in the front, LED in the back), you may not notice it but if your incandescent bulb breaks, you're back to nothing-flashing.

Other symptoms are fast flasher, slow flashing or not coming on at all.

There are usually two solutions:

Install Load Resistors: these resistors basically a resistor that consumes enough power to cause the stock flasher module to kick in. Your flasher basically doesn't know that you're running LED bulbs. This is usually the more expensive solution, creates a lot more work and just generally undesirable. However, this may be what you have to do if you cannot find an LED-compatible flasher.

LED-Compatible Flasher: This will work on most cars (and the older the car, the more likely), and usually means ripping out the stock flasher and putting in an LED-compatible replacement. Sometimes you may have to flip some wires (and you can find harnesses to make that really easy). There are various different models of LED compatible flashers, and there are also different types."

Source: http://www.ebay.com/gds/LED...0000176783681/g.html

[This message has been edited by Neils88 (edited 12-31-2013).]

For the side markers I used amber and red Led strips which work fine. The others are replacement bulbs (Led)

The problem I have is not with the turn signals. They work fine.

The parking/brake light goes out 45 seconds after the parking switch is turned on.

[This message has been edited by SomeNewGuy (edited 01-01-2014).]

quote Originally posted by 2.5: What resistors would you say are needed?

Sorry. I missed a Not. I edited above.

Resistors are mainly used w/ warning light or BCM setting DTC etc for blown bulbs.
Example: Kia will kill cruise and turn on ESC light when brake bulb is bad.

Load resistors generate heat... They can cause damage to plastic etc.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-01-2014).]