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This trick to find vacuum leaks? by meet_my_grandma
Started on: 09-20-2013 08:23 PM
Replies: 35 (2153 views)
Last post by: meet_my_grandma on 09-29-2013 03:17 PM
meet_my_grandma
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Report this Post09-20-2013 08:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Has anyone heard of this or tried it in a fiero?

Use a shop vac with the hose installed at the other end, where it blows instead of sucks. Insert the hose in the tail pipe, and using duct tape seal it in. Remove air filter box. Mix up a solution of liquid dish soap and water, or use kids bubble stuff - you know, the stuff you dip a circular piece in it then blow through it to get bubbles (LOL), and put it in a squirt bottle. Get a mirror and flash light. Start the shop vac blowing up the exhaust pipe then squirt the soap/bubble solution all around the exhaust manifold. If it's cracked it will blow air out and create bubbles. Look for them.

Worked for me. Found one small crack I couldn't see before.


I have a 2.8 v6 4 spd with a high idle (2200-2900) after cleaning my TB and replacing IAC. Im thinking vacuum leak, cracked exhaust mani or that egr pipe.
Anyone tried this?
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Report this Post09-20-2013 09:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sco77Click Here to Email sco77Send a Private Message to sco77Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Are you saying the high idle started after cleaning the TB and changing the IAC or are you saying that those are the things you tried already? If it happen after those items it could be a bad IAC or it might be one of the hoses that connect below the throttle body.

------------------
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Report this Post09-21-2013 08:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tesmith66Send a Private Message to tesmith66Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The easier solution is go ahead and get the manifolds welded and replace the EGR tube. If it's a 2.8 and hasn't been touched, those ARE cracked and leaking. Common problem with those.

------------------
1986 SE Aero coupe.

3.4 DOHC swap is complete and running, now just have to finish the rest of the car...

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Report this Post09-21-2013 10:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This started after cleaning of tb and iac. I also replaced iac to rule it out. I'm thinking the tube connecting to the tb may be the issue?
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Report this Post09-21-2013 01:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IIKoolClick Here to Email IIKoolSend a Private Message to IIKoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by meet_my_grandma:

This started after cleaning of tb and iac. I also replaced iac to rule it out. I'm thinking the tube connecting to the tb may be the issue?


I agree
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Report this Post09-21-2013 02:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Works or not...

Bigger issue is Do not use exhaust to blow air into engine.
Exhaust can put allot of rust etc into the engine. Not Good.

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meet_my_grandma
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Report this Post09-21-2013 04:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
this is just something I fund on a jeep forum and was curious about.

but is here an easy way to check the tube coming from TB without taking the entire plenum off?


 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Works or not...

Bigger issue is Do not use exhaust to blow air into engine.
Exhaust can put allot of rust etc into the engine. Not Good.


and ogre, are you referring to this vacuum bubble thing I was asking about?

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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post09-21-2013 05:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoClick Here to Email Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Better to just use a "Pressurized SMOKE CAN, cost about $2 to make.
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meet_my_grandma
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Report this Post09-21-2013 05:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
this is just something I fund on a jeep forum and was curious about.

but is here an easy way to check the tube coming from TB without taking the entire plenum off?


 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Works or not...

Bigger issue is Do not use exhaust to blow air into engine.
Exhaust can put allot of rust etc into the engine. Not Good.


and ogre, are you referring to this vacuum bubble thing I was asking about?

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NiotaFiero
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Report this Post09-21-2013 06:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NiotaFieroClick Here to Email NiotaFieroSend a Private Message to NiotaFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:

Better to just use a "Pressurized SMOKE CAN, cost about $2 to make.


Tell me about this procedure, if you don't mind.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post09-21-2013 07:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Cut a strip out of an aluminum pop can, the width of the UPC. Take off the dist cap (leave the wires on) and put it aside. Loosen the two 10mm bolts (heads) that hold the tube to the bottom of the intake manifold. Slip the aluminum can between the two, tighten the bolts and replace the dist cap. If your high idle goes away it is the tube leaking.

btw, this procedure looks much easier than it is. Take your time and use your fingertips along with your 10mm box/open end wrench.

This procedure costs about $0.35, well that is until Michelle bans soda pop.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 09-21-2013).]

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Report this Post09-21-2013 07:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NiotaFieroClick Here to Email NiotaFieroSend a Private Message to NiotaFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

Cut a strip out of an aluminum pop can, the width of the UPC. Take off the dist cap (leave the wires on) and put it aside. Loosen the two 10mm bolts (heads) that hold the tube to the bottom of the intake manifold. Slip the aluminum can between the two, tighten the bolts and replace the dist cap. If your high idle goes away it is the tube leaking.

btw, this procedure looks much easier than it is. Take your time and use your fingertips along with your 10mm box/open end wrench.

This procedure costs about $0.35, well that is until Michelle bans soda pop.

Thanks, now how about the pressurized smoke can?

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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post09-21-2013 07:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoClick Here to Email Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Niotafiero, you have a PM
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Report this Post09-21-2013 07:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoClick Here to Email Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Lou6t4gto

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Feel free to re post the "HOW TO" for everyone.
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Report this Post09-21-2013 07:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NiotaFieroClick Here to Email NiotaFieroSend a Private Message to NiotaFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
[/QUOTE] Thanks, now how about the pressurized smoke can?

Take a Qt or gallon Empty paint can, drill 2 holes in the" Lid". in 1of the holes, epoxy in a air fitting to fit for your compressor air line, the other hole, a fitting you can slip a vacuum line onto. all you do is: put a little oil on a rag, light it up, let it burn for a few seconds, then put I out, but let it "smolder". Put the rag in the can and put the lid on. Put the vacuum line onto a vacuum port on the intake of the engine, then connect air pressure to the air fitting on the lid. **** ONLY USE about 5 PSI of air pressure, or all you'll do is blow the lid off the can)***** the smoke will go through the engine and come Out Everywhere there is a Leak ! very simple, took me about 20 min to make. Hope that helps. feel free to post this if you want.
[/QUOTE]

[This message has been edited by NiotaFiero (edited 09-21-2013).]

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Report this Post09-21-2013 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NiotaFieroClick Here to Email NiotaFieroSend a Private Message to NiotaFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

NiotaFiero

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Member since Nov 2007
 
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:

Feel free to re post the "HOW TO" for everyone.


Thanks, this should help many.
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meet_my_grandma
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Report this Post09-22-2013 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
the aluminum can trick didnt change anything, but now im noticing smoking from under the metal covering by the egr guess its time to pull that all off
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Report this Post09-22-2013 01:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by NiotaFiero:

Thanks, now how about the pressurized smoke can?

Take a Qt or gallon Empty paint can, drill 2 holes in the" Lid". in 1of the holes, epoxy in a air fitting to fit for your compressor air line, the other hole, a fitting you can slip a vacuum line onto. all you do is: put a little oil on a rag, light it up, let it burn for a few seconds, then put I out, but let it "smolder". Put the rag in the can and put the lid on. Put the vacuum line onto a vacuum port on the intake of the engine, then connect air pressure to the air fitting on the lid. **** ONLY USE about 5 PSI of air pressure, or all you'll do is blow the lid off the can)***** the smoke will go through the engine and come Out Everywhere there is a Leak ! very simple, took me about 20 min to make. Hope that helps. feel free to post this if you want.
[/QUOTE]

[/QUOTE]
this may be a dumb question, but is there any certain vacuum line that yields the best results?


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phonedawgz
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Report this Post09-22-2013 04:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you are having a 3000 RPM idle after taking off your throttle body there are only two places that can leak that much vacuum.

The first is the EGR tube.

The second is the IAC output passage O-ring located on the inside of throttle body where the IAC passage tube inserts into the TB.

The other possibility of a 3000 RPM idle is a stuck wide open IAC valve. Start the engine, cover the IAC input passage and see if the idle drops. The IAC passage input is that big hole at the bottom of the floor or the throttle body just outside the throttle valve. Take off the snorkel and cover it with your finger. If the idle drops then look at the IAC valve being stuck fully retracted. If the idle is still 3000 rpm then pull the TB back off, put the o-ring back in place in it's groove and reinstall the TB.

The o-ring is visible in the IAC output passage on the Fiero (right) throttle body.



---

IAC input passage visible in this pic

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 09-22-2013).]

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Report this Post09-22-2013 05:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoClick Here to Email Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
when I built my first 3.4, I had that problem (3000 idle), it was the Throttlebody to manifold "Gasket"
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Report this Post09-22-2013 06:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by meet_my_grandma:
and ogre, are you referring to this vacuum bubble thing I was asking about?

bubbles isn't a problem...

 
quote
Originally posted by meet_my_grandma:
Use a shop vac with the hose installed at the other end, where it blows instead of sucks. Insert the hose in the tail pipe, and using duct tape seal it in.

That will blow air and rust, catalyst debris/guts, etc towards the engine. Any can get stuck in valves and/or between piston(s) and block.
Exhaust valve is easy to burn w/o proper seal.

You may find vac leak and month(s) later the engine dies from a burnt valve, low pressure on a cyl from scratch cyl wall...

 
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:
Better to just use a "Pressurized SMOKE CAN, cost about $2 to make.

Many ways to make something... likely even a Bee Smoker can work.
Just don't use DIY methods in a garage etc... Burning most things causes health problems etc.
Like Don't use oil... New and Old engine/trans/etc oil/grease are bad for health.

Maybe get smoke detector test smoke... This is a canned product. Example, CRC 02105 – Smoke Test® Brand Smoke Detector Tester
CRC product maybe can change the top button to CRC 556 etc lubes or cleaners so you can get a straw then attach to vac tube/hose.
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Report this Post09-22-2013 06:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniClick Here to Email HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Did you forget this tube? This is your idle air tube:




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meet_my_grandma
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Report this Post09-24-2013 01:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
yep. it was the idle air tube. came loose. idle is back down! thanks for everyones imput!


**

now back to the main problem. intermittently, once warm, at stops or times i take it out of gear (its a 4 spd) my idle either idles out or comes very close to. while in motion, if I take my foot off the pedal or decrease my speed, I gurgle and backfire.

recent replacements-
iac
speed sensor
tps

have done a vacuum smoke test as previously discussed and nothing was really found.

Also-
I have a ticking during acceleration. last year a horrible shop in SC got their paws on it and "fixed" a crack in my exhaust manifold. this solved my ticking for awhile... best way to find this crack?

any input greatly appreciated guys!!!
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meet_my_grandma
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Report this Post09-24-2013 01:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
anyone?
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hiwil88formula
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Report this Post09-24-2013 01:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hiwil88formulaClick Here to Email hiwil88formulaSend a Private Message to hiwil88formulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Best way to find the crack is to use a mechanics stethoscope, listen for changes in sound. Or just use a small diameter hose and run it along your manifolds listening for changes in sound. One end up to your ear, other to the suspected parts. first place to look for cracks is the firewall side manifold, second the y pipe at the joint, and third the trunk side manifold. For your other issue check the timing, just make sure to put it in diagnostic mode first.

Hope this helps

[This message has been edited by hiwil88formula (edited 09-24-2013).]

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meet_my_grandma
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Report this Post09-24-2013 05:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I seafoamed tested it. Had a big leak right here. http://m21.photobucket.com/...8353_zps6c99d463.jpg
What kind of gasket do I replace in this, or whats the best ti do?

http://m21.photobucket.com/...f4492af.jpg.html?o=0
Also found this wire from the speed sensor going... Nowhere. plus that connector there fell apart in my hands. What is it?
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Report this Post09-24-2013 05:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by hiwil88formula:

Best way to find the crack is to use a mechanics stethoscope, listen for changes in sound. Or just use a small diameter hose and run it along your manifolds listening for changes in sound. One end up to your ear, other to the suspected parts. first place to look for cracks is the firewall side manifold, second the y pipe at the joint, and third the trunk side manifold. For your other issue check the timing, just make sure to put it in diagnostic mode first.

Hope this helps



I like a section of old garden hose, 2 or 3' section, one end in your ear and the other move around the exhaust system, you will know right away as soon as you are near it, lots cheaper.

OLD SCHOOL RULES.

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

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Report this Post09-24-2013 05:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

84fiero123

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Member since Oct 2004
 
quote
Originally posted by meet_my_grandma:

I seafoamed tested it. Had a big leak right here. http://m21.photobucket.com/...8353_zps6c99d463.jpg
What kind of gasket do I replace in this, or whats the best ti do?

http://m21.photobucket.com/...f4492af.jpg.html?o=0
Also found this wire from the speed sensor going... Nowhere. plus that connector there fell apart in my hands. What is it?


exhaust donut if it even calls for it there, not sure been years.

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

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Report this Post09-24-2013 05:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JustinbartSend a Private Message to JustinbartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
"Boost leak check"?

I do it all the time.

------------------
Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
11.17@132.6

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meet_my_grandma
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Report this Post09-24-2013 07:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
this was the only leak I found. very noticeable.

but any ideas about that connector and wires?
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post09-24-2013 07:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Dk. Blue and Lt. Green wires? Reverse switch for the 5 speed. 4 speeds have the reverse switch in the console. 5 speeds have it on the tranny. Your wiring harness was built to support the coming 5 speed but your car didn't get it.

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Report this Post09-25-2013 04:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
http://s21.photobucket.com/...65018662815645702313

smoking from that pipe right there closest to the trunk coming from the engine.
not just where i attempted to rtv gasketize it.


also, what is this connector?
http://i21.photobucket.com/...8353_zps6c99d463.jpg

http://s21.photobucket.com/...12509247813029844965
cause its about to fall apart lol

[This message has been edited by meet_my_grandma (edited 09-25-2013).]

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meet_my_grandma
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Report this Post09-26-2013 11:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Any help? Please
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hiwil88formula
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Report this Post09-26-2013 02:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hiwil88formulaClick Here to Email hiwil88formulaSend a Private Message to hiwil88formulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The connector is the temperature sender for the dash guage. You can either buy a new pigtail from the fiero stor for $25 or just the plastic thingy for $5 from rodney. You exhaust seems to be missing bolts, or you removed them before the picture. I think they sell exhaust doughnuts that should fit there. If you tighten the bolts enough you might not need a gasket there.

Hywel
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Report this Post09-27-2013 11:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bolts removed before pic. Now sealed and bolts
Tightened. But everything is currently reconnected and the manifold closest to the trunk is smoking all over. Not sure if it's leftover from seafoaming, thought I got most out
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Report this Post09-29-2013 03:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for meet_my_grandmaClick Here to Email meet_my_grandmaSend a Private Message to meet_my_grandmaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
anyone?
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