quote Originally posted by trotterlg: Anyone have any real life experience having a problem running synthedic in a new engine? None of this "I knew a guy whose cousin had a friend who had trouble............." I mean someone who ran it in a new engine and it caused them grief? I am thinking this may also be one of the "urban miths" that seem so common with cars. Larry

When I had a 3.4 crate engine installed in my 88 GT (some 70,000 miles ago) I ran synthetic oil from day 1. Mobil 1 10-30 for many years then Amsoil 10-30 for the past few years. The engine has been trouble free, uses no oil and I have had no engine problems with the car.

quote Originally posted by trotterlg: Anyone have any real life experience having a problem running synthedic in a new engine? None of this "I knew a guy whose cousin had a friend who had trouble............." I mean someone who ran it in a new engine and it caused them grief? I am thinking this may also be one of the "urban miths" that seem so common with cars. Larry

Engines arent cheap. Why take the chance, even if it was a myth. Myself, Id never put synthetic in a new engine of mine from the start and run the risk...unless the engine builder told me to. Anything that can cause a problem dont cause one for everyone. ie/ just because you do it with someone with HIV dont mean you will get it.

quote Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: The NASA Lewis Research Center conducted tests on PTFE oil additives and concluded, "In the types of bearing surface contact we have looked at, we have seen no benefit. In some cases we have seen detrimental effect. The solids in the oil tend to accumulate at inlets and act as a dam, which simply blocks the oil from entering. Instead of helping, it is actually depriving parts of lubricant". Your engine, your choice.

Can "liquid moly" do that as well?

http://www.schaefferoil.com...7000-engine-oil.html

"Micron Moly®, a liquid soluble type of Moly and Schaeffer Mfg’s own
proprietary additive Penetro ."

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Can "liquid moly" do that as well?

I don't know. The only "moly" lubricant I'm familiar with is molybdenum disulfide (MoS₂), which is an insoluble solid. MoS₂ is usually employed in the form of a microfine powder, either applied directly to clean metal surfaces or as an additive to oil or grease. When added to motor oil, MoS₂ is subject to removal by the oil filter just like microfine PTFE powder.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 09-19-2013).]

quote Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: I don't know. The only "moly" lubricant I'm familiar with is molybdenum disulfide (MoS2), which is an insoluble solid. MoS2 is usually employed in the form of a microfine powder, either applied directly to clean metal surfaces or as an additive to oil or grease. When added to motor oil, MoS2 is subject to removal by the oil filter just like microfine PTFE powder.

http://www.liqui-moly.de/li...ng=d&voiladb=web.nsf

This is the LM product I sell the most. My customers know it by name.
The MoS2 is cooked with the oil so it can stay suspended in the oil and regardless of the how long it is on the shelf the MoS2 will not sink to the bottom.
I know this because I talked personally with the Liqui Moly chemists.

quote Originally posted by La fiera: This is the LM product I sell ...

Nothing wrong with that, but I wish you had been more up front about it.

quote ... < 0,5 µm or half a billionth of a nanometer.

Gibberish!

0.5 µm = 0.5 x 10^-6 m
half a billionth of a nanometer = 0.5 x 10^-18 m

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 09-20-2013).]

Put a new Melling cam in my 2.8 last year because of wear at 54000 miles. The cam came with a note on engines oils to use with flat taplet cams. Do a search on Melling cam break-in or go to Melling and look up on there site. Generally you will find that the 15-40 and above oils can meet your needs. Most below will not.

Another thing I found when deciding on what to do with engine before repaired, was that GM recommend 20-50 racing oil to break in the 3.4 iron head engines for the replacement of the 2.8 in the S10. Again search for the 3.4 break-in recomendations.

The above two sites were very helpful when deciding what engine oil to use.

There were unintended results from recommending 5-30 oil in 1988 for the flat taplet cam engines.

Hope this helps.

Gas engines since 1954 - Diesel since 1957

quote Originally posted by La fiera: The particle size of Ceratec is < 0,5 µm or half a billionth of a nanometer.

As Marvin already stated, you better check your math. 0.5µm (one half of one micrometer) actually equals 50 nanometers.

quote Originally posted by lateFormula: 0.5µm (one half of one micrometer) actually equals 50 nanometers.

1 µm = 1000 nm
0.5 µm = 500 nm

One half a micrometer also equals 2.49 nanofurlongs.

quote One half a micrometer also equals 2.49 nanofurlongs.

Which a Hot Fiero can cover in a Nanosecond.

Thanks for the correction guys!

quote Originally posted by trotterlg: One half a micrometer ... Which a Hot Fiero can cover in a Nanosecond.

500 m/sec (2.49 furlongs/sec ... ~1200 mph ... ~Mach 1.5)??? In a Fiero???

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 09-22-2013).]

Well.......................you do need a Flux Capitator and a lightning strike to get there. Larry

After one failed rebuild where we used synthetic oil and made other mistakes, I now swear by Valvoline VR1. We race the car in LeMons and it takes a beating. The VR1 has high zinc and made for old engines. I run the 10w-30. 6 races post rebuild and we keep getting faster.

quote Originally posted by La fiera: 10W-60 Synthoil is what I use in my Fiero. .

Are you concerned that the 60 wt at operating temp is twice as thick as factory recommended? I do understand that synthetics can flow better or act thinner than convintional oils, but 60 wt seems excessive.

60w is not much thicker than 50w. I used to run 50w dino oil in my cars in the summer, especially my street and drag racing ones. Never an issue.

I think on the viscosity scale that 60 wieight is twice as thick as 50 weight. If you mix one quart of 20 with one quart of 40 you do not get 30. Larry

quote Originally posted by trotterlg: I think on the viscosity scale that 60 wieight is twice as thick as 50 weight.

No. The SAE Viscosity Grade is an arbitrary index. The actual measure of oil "thickness" is its kinematic viscosity, usually expressed in centiStokes (cSt). Here are the actual allowable viscosity ranges (at 100° C) for engine oils per SAE J300:

SAE 0W --> 3.8 cSt (minimum)
SAE 5W --> 3.8 cSt (min)
SAE 10W --> 4.1 cSt (min)
SAE 15W --> 5.6 cSt (min)
SAE 20W --> 5.6 cSt (min)
SAE 25W --> 9.3 cSt (min)

SAE 20 --> 5.6 - 9.3 cSt
SAE 30 --> 9.3 - 12.5 cSt
SAE 40 --> 12.5 - 16.3 cSt
SAE 50 --> 16.3 - 21.9 cSt
SAE 60 --> 21.9 - 26.1 cSt

See http://www.widman.biz/English/Tables/J300.html.

Note that you will often see two different measures of viscosity: kinematic viscosity (as above, expressed in centiStokes [cSt]) and absolute viscosity (expressed in centiPoises [cP]). To simplify somewhat, kinematic viscosity is the more useful property for free-flowing oils (e.g. engine at normal operating temperature), while absolute viscosity is more useful in situations where there the flow rate is very low (e.g. at cold start).

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 09-24-2013).]

quote Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: SAE 30 --> 9.3 - 12.5 cSt SAE 60 --> 21.9 - 26.1 cSt

I guess its a little more than twice as thick...

I measure how thick oil is by letting it run off a paint stick. Even 90w gear oil is not as thick as youd think. Its always looked to me like oil with STP or similar thickeners made 30w act like 50w.

BTW, that is how you measure paint thickness/ thinness for spraying the old school way before catalyst and specific mixes.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 09-24-2013).]