I think that did not work. While the brush was attached/glued the motor, still it did not operate. relays good, fuses good, so Really I cannot say with 100% conviction that it was the fault of the glue not making a good contact or not. I got mad (5th time to open it back up) so I left it there for now.
I think the better method would be buck up and go to junk yard look for fiero or fierbird H L motor and grab the brushes. later on I will get the multimeter out and check contuinity on the darn thing...
Hey I was able to solder the brush back onto the tab and now it works great! I like the glue and soldered wire idea though. I had to scrape off the areas where the tab contacts the brush and then the solder stuck. One one motor ,(the one that worked so I didn't take it apart. ) when its down it keeps clicking very two seconds And I'm afraid it'll wear out the battery . Buddy Craig maybe you could chime in. I watched your video aNd that's how I did the one motor , but i only had to remove the limit switch cover as that was the prob, the brush was just sitting there unattached. but the pass side worked so I didnt open it up at all and I think the limit switch may need cleaning maybe that's why it is clicking when totally down.
Now after putting it up and down a few times (pass side is now temperamental about goin up but it did and then when it was back down I didn't hear the clicking anymore . Maybe. It seated itself , ill have to try it again in the daylight and see . If anything ill clean the limit said h on the pass side motor and hopefully it'll go up every time and it won't click while down anymore.
------------------ Louis Duet Baldwin, Long Island, NY "Blue" <= '85 GT "Gettin' There"
Glue or JB Weld will work, you just have to make sure the wire has a firm contact with the brush,it is difficult to solder this connection unless you are an experienced solderer, I have done this once, wanted to go to daytona bike week,starter quit !1 Harley shop wanted $40 for new brushes,, went to armature/ electrical motor shop purchased similar brush, cut, file,sand brush to size & glue it in.. you can sand file grind copper or ,brush carbon & mix it with glue or J B weld Mine look like cebix. you can leave the center of the brush clean for good contact,then with metal glue/J,B weld solder the edges ,make a few indentations so the glue or solder holds better ... form a paper clip.ect to hold the brush you often have to improvise with old cars , many Fiero in the future will need this tip ,as more Fiero have the actuactor brush worn down my oen headlights do not operate,just said screw it.. I have decided to repair them as soon as I can get the proper isolation relay.. do not forget to clean carbon from the armature ..
[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 01-18-2014).]
Isolation relay and headlight motor relays ARE interchangeable. They are the same part # on rock auto.com Standard brand relay RY130 Just got one at autozone sat night for 11.99.
------------------ Louis Duet Baldwin, Long Island, NY "Blue" <= '85 GT "Gettin' There"
Originally posted by Lou and Blue: Isolation relay and headlight motor relays ARE interchangeable. They are the same part # on rock auto.com
The internal circuitry is different between the iso and motor relays. You can't substitute one for the other even if Rock Auto thinks they're the same.
I switched mine back and forth and the headlight motors work the same either way. If they are different, what are the respective part numbers for the isolation relay and the headlight relay? Everywhere I search they are the same relay.
------------------ Louis Duet Baldwin, Long Island, NY "Blue" <= '85 GT "Gettin' There"