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Reattaching headlight motor brushes by revin
Started on: 06-13-2013 03:39 PM
Replies: 15 (1252 views)
Last post by: Lou and Blue on 01-19-2014 02:26 PM
revin
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Report this Post06-13-2013 03:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for revinSend a Private Message to revinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When I rebuilt the 85 Headlight motor, as I was putting on the limit switch assembly the #$^%$ brush came off!

How do you properly reattach the darn thing?

Soldering iron and solder = NO (did not stick)

Superglue = NO (bad conductor)

Hot glue gun? (I am thinking NO)

RTV?

JB Weld?


Well if there is "no hope" in reattaching the brush, does anyone have a spare?

Thanks

[This message has been edited by revin (edited 06-13-2013).]

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Gall757
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Report this Post06-13-2013 03:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
//www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-087442.html

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 06-13-2013).]

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revin
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Report this Post06-13-2013 04:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for revinSend a Private Message to revinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
ah 84...did not look at that thread
thanks! hope it works
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Gall757
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Report this Post06-13-2013 05:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Give us a report....that thread is archived.
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revin
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Report this Post06-14-2013 12:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for revinSend a Private Message to revinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ok !
I got the rear window defoger electricallly Conductive Adhesive $12.
It calls out for 24hr cure so Sat or so, I will post results.
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goatvenom
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Report this Post06-16-2013 01:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for goatvenomSend a Private Message to goatvenomEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
i have 2 brushes from a 86 that are in great condition let me know if you need them
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Gall757
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Report this Post07-02-2013 10:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Any results?
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chorcob
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Report this Post07-02-2013 02:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for chorcobSend a Private Message to chorcobEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If it doesn't stick back on contact David Solt at http://www.freewebz.com/fie...eadlights/index.html he will probably be able to set you up with a points/brush assembly

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Unconditional Surrender

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goatvenom
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Report this Post07-02-2013 02:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for goatvenomSend a Private Message to goatvenomEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
i still have those brushes if nothing else works for you

Ryan
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revin
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Report this Post07-04-2013 08:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for revinSend a Private Message to revinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think that did not work. While the brush was attached/glued the motor, still it did not operate.
relays good, fuses good, so Really I cannot say with 100% conviction that it was the fault of the glue not making a good contact or not.
I got mad (5th time to open it back up) so I left it there for now.

I think the better method would be buck up and go to junk yard look for fiero or fierbird H L motor and grab the brushes.
later on I will get the multimeter out and check contuinity on the darn thing...

Revin

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cebix
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Report this Post07-04-2013 08:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cebixSend a Private Message to cebixEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Get some copper brushes and do what I did and some users before me.



The brushes are glued and the wires are soldered. Works for me.

[This message has been edited by cebix (edited 07-04-2013).]

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Lou and Blue
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Report this Post01-18-2014 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou and BlueSend a Private Message to Lou and BlueEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey I was able to solder the brush back onto the tab and now it works great! I like the glue and soldered wire idea though. I had to scrape off the areas where the tab contacts the brush and then the solder stuck. One one motor ,(the one that worked so I didn't take it apart. ) when its down it keeps clicking very two seconds And I'm afraid it'll wear out the battery . Buddy Craig maybe you could chime in. I watched your video aNd that's how I did the one motor , but i only had to remove the limit switch cover as that was the prob, the brush was just sitting there unattached. but the pass side worked so I didnt open it up at all and I think the limit switch may need cleaning maybe that's why it is clicking when totally down.

Now after putting it up and down a few times (pass side is now temperamental about goin up but it did and then when it was back down I didn't hear the clicking anymore . Maybe. It seated itself , ill have to try it again in the daylight and see . If anything ill clean the limit said h on the pass side motor and hopefully it'll go up every time and it won't click while down anymore.

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"Blue" <= '85 GT
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uhlanstan
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Report this Post01-18-2014 09:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Glue or JB Weld will work, you just have to make sure the wire has a firm contact with the brush,it is difficult to solder this connection unless you are an experienced solderer, I have done this once, wanted to go to daytona bike week,starter quit !1 Harley shop wanted
$40 for new brushes,, went to armature/ electrical motor shop purchased similar brush, cut, file,sand brush to size & glue it in..
you can sand file grind copper or ,brush carbon & mix it with glue or J B weld
Mine look like cebix. you can leave the center of the brush clean for good contact,then with metal glue/J,B weld solder the edges ,make a few indentations so the glue or solder holds better ... form a paper clip.ect to hold the brush
you often have to improvise with old cars , many Fiero in the future will need this tip ,as more Fiero have the actuactor brush worn down
my oen headlights do not operate,just said screw it.. I have decided to repair them as soon as I can get the proper isolation relay..
do not forget to clean carbon from the armature ..

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 01-18-2014).]

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Lou and Blue
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Report this Post01-19-2014 06:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou and BlueSend a Private Message to Lou and BlueEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Isolation relay and headlight motor relays ARE interchangeable. They are the same part # on rock auto.com
Standard brand relay RY130
Just got one at autozone sat night for 11.99.

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Louis Duet
Baldwin, Long Island, NY
"Blue" <= '85 GT
"Gettin' There"

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post01-19-2014 08:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Lou and Blue:
Isolation relay and headlight motor relays ARE interchangeable. They are the same part # on rock auto.com


The internal circuitry is different between the iso and motor relays. You can't substitute one for the other even if Rock Auto thinks they're the same.

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Lou and Blue
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Report this Post01-19-2014 02:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou and BlueSend a Private Message to Lou and BlueEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I switched mine back and forth and the headlight motors work the same either way. If they are different, what are the respective part numbers for the isolation relay and the headlight relay? Everywhere I search they are the same relay.

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Louis Duet
Baldwin, Long Island, NY
"Blue" <= '85 GT
"Gettin' There"

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