Omitted - Dual posting

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 05-07-2021).]

I get it guys, Thanks ... so for me the question is do I need to bleed them again? I just did it a few days ago and have not had a chance to drive the car. I did RR LR, do I really need to do it again?

Opinions please...

quote Originally posted by hunter29: I get it guys, Thanks ... so for me the question is do I need to bleed them again? I just did it a few days ago and have not had a chance to drive the car. I did RR LR, do I really need to do it again? Opinions please...

In some ways it depends on what brake work was done.
But you can also think of it this way, it never hurts to do it again. Something else alot of people don't do is change their brake fluid just because its time to change it. It should be changed for regular maintenance and should not be dark brown like it is in many peoples reservoir.

This method that now works best for me--Speed Bleeders

Just for reference the Russell Speed Bleeders that fit the Fiero calipers are
P/N 639580
size is: 10mm x1.530 I had to use an 11mm wrench to tighten or loosen them.

Remove old bleeder with a 10 MM wrench. Screw speed bleeders in all the way in but not too tight. Put 1/8" clear plastic hose on bleeder about 30" (loose end in a soda bottle) , then back off about 1/2 turn, step on brake pedal about 6 or 7 times. When the clear plastic hose shows no bubbles you are done. Tighten bleeder closed just snug but not too tight. Then move on to the next wheel in proper recommended sequence. I have found that this method of bleeding works best if your brake booster has vacuum so I start after each wheel to recharge.
I did all four wheels without jacking up the car. With 5 spoke aluminum wheels I was able to reach in there an get it all done. A lift is of little use here as this one man operation requires getting in the seat and pumping the brake pedal after each wheel bleed. With stock Fiero wheels you will most likely need to take them off to bleed.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Since the MC on an 88 is split between front and back, would it really matter if you did the front first?
just askin, I always do mine rear first then front out of habit
BTW, after installing speed bleeders, I put them on all my vehicles, so quick and easy

quote Originally posted by ZaraSpOOk: Since the MC on an 88 is split between front and back, would it really matter if you did the front first? just askin, I always do mine rear first then front out of habit BTW, after installing speed bleeders, I put them on all my vehicles, so quick and easy

The front and rear brakes can be considered two separate systems on the MC but reality is that the entire system works as one. Front and rear brake lines all funnel through the proportioning valve. As such we start bleeding the farthest caliper away from the MC and work our way closer.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "