I believe that much 0f this was covered in another thread. So the procedure after changing a flat tire is to put it in the trunk to cart it. That will obviously work but when you are on vacation with your spouse or friend the trunk is usually full of luggage and the tool bag is in the front. Short of using bungees and a blanket to fasten the flat to the deck lid is there a better way to transport your flat tire?
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 05-02-2021).]
That is what I would try to do.....Move stuff around to create room- I don't think the smallest stock tire/wheel would fit in the space for the spare. That is actually a problem with "Space-saver" spares- especially on a small car like ours with (Already) Limited trunk space.
I always have a bath towel (Gray) to protect the seat- originally because I worked on aircraft and could be quite dirty at the end of the day, but now mainly if I carry my dog....But a couple of bungees and a towel would allow you to carry the removed tire/wheel on top of the deck lid. In an emergency......
Flat tire sits on the passenger seat. Friend or spouse can walk.
We've been married for 17 years and my wife still likes me; well most of the time. I think I'll keep her. Letting her walk along the highway may not produce a positive result. Getting back to more serious matters it may be possible to transfer some baggage to the front spare space or if the small luggage that we carry do not fit there, we may be able to bungee those to the deck lid. Now it becomes apparent why GM sold soft luggage. In the worse case we have AAA 100 mile towing but you can have a long wait before assistance shows up.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Spoon ------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
[This message has been edited by Spoon (edited 05-05-2021).]
MICHELIN® - PILOT SPORT A/S 3 PLUS ZP (RUN FLAT)...
Many say use "Run Flat" tires.... sounds nice on paper but have issues...
1. Require Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems (TPMS) because you can't tell running low pressure or flat. Others w/ normal tires have TPMS as a option. Don't think USDOT/NHSTA requires them or updated FMVSS for future cars. You can install this on any "old" vehicle but added cost on top of premium price of tires.
Note: TPMS on new vehicles often isn't = sensors in the wheels. They use Tone Rings for ABS to watch tire speeds for low/flat tires. Low tire changes tire radius and tire spins a little slower or faster and Tone Rings will "read" this data even w/o you using the brakes.
2. Point 1. is because "Run Flat" tires have Speed and Distance Limits running flat. If you fail to follow those limits, they can fail same way as "normal" tires do. I don't think BMW etc w/ them from the factory does anything but trip the dash warning light to make you slow down.
3. Every flat I have in 10+ years is family hitting big things like curbs and Destroying a tire. Run Flat won't help here and very expensive to replace. If you have TPMS wheel mount sensors then very likely have to replace a sensor at same time because rolling a flat tire just a few yards often crushes them if the impact doesn't wreck them.
ETA--> Plus "Run Flat" tires have most to all repair rules that others have in https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/099748.html When tire fails the repair rules, you have to junk a expense tire and your tire is often not in stock at many shops.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
195/70-14 hits both Brake MC and jack bracket before even 50% in the tire well. Even if you remove the jack bracket letting washer fluid tank hanging on 1 bolt you just hit other things 1 or 2 inches away and still hitting MC.
185/80-13 wheel used for some 84 & 85 won't fit because very close to same diameter and anything larger just hits things sooner and easier to wreck them.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 05-22-2021).]
I believe that much 0f this was covered in another thread. So the procedure after changing a flat tire is to put it in the trunk to cart it. That will obviously work but when you are on vacation with your spouse or friend the trunk is usually full of luggage and the tool bag is in the front. Short of using bungees and a blanket to fasten the flat to the deck lid is there a better way to transport your flat tire?
I have actually considered this and went so far as to take measurements and design a new front trunk space to make it work. The answer is "Yes....BUT"
You need to redesign the fiberglass frunk pan, cut the forward bulkhead and move it forward, redirect airflow for the radiator with hood vents and ducting, use a smaller over flow tank, use a smaller washer reservoir (and move it), relocate the tire jack, put in a smaller brake booster (and move it), and modify your AC plumbing and move the accumulator. That's all
If you get hit in the front end, one of two things will happen, you will either be spared a grizzly death by the extra cushion, or you will have the tire ejected from the frunk, trough your windscreen, and Senna-tize yourself. I'm still thinking of trying it for a future project.
Originally posted by Toddster: I have actually considered this and went so far as to take measurements and design a new front trunk space to make it work. The answer is "Yes....BUT"
You need to redesign the fiberglass frunk pan, cut the forward bulkhead and move it forward, redirect airflow for the radiator with hood vents and ducting, use a smaller over flow tank, use a smaller washer reservoir (and move it), relocate the tire jack, put in a smaller brake booster (and move it), and modify your AC plumbing and move the accumulator. That's all
If you get hit in the front end, one of two things will happen, you will either be spared a grizzly death by the extra cushion, or you will have the tire ejected from the frunk, trough your windscreen, and Senna-tize yourself. I'm still thinking of trying it for a future project.
You will have to re-plumb the brake line to front right wheel at minimum too...
Originally posted by ron768: My fix for this is to throw away the space saver spare and carry a plug kit and a air compressor or a couple cans of fix-a-flat. Back up is AAA.
Blanket and bungees is really not a bad idea honestly. Its not like you are going to drive forever with it like that. Just need to make sure its a soft blanket so it doesn't scratch the paint.
I'm bored so did some measuring today... 195/70-14 is ~ 24⅝" diam, 7" wide 125/70D15 is ~ 21½" diam, 5⅛ wide for just the tire. Rim and tire is 5¾" wide because of weird center section. Two together...
Not only won't fit as said above... (And that hit's the jack bracket, forget trying w/ jack mounted before or after. Either Not Happening.) The width will stop you a bit farther down in the bay. That's w/ or w/o AC because of frame just below AC parts. Even if can put a normal tire in, can't shut the hood.
I Assumed Toddster "mod" above is a joke... Because Damn near impossible to mod the front to take a full size tire. Not only the above would need changing or removal, Rad and it's fan, Steering Rack and Lower Column likely have problems too.
Sadly the Real Trunk have problems w/ bigger tires too. Even some OE tires... Measure, Trunk allows ~ 24-25 high and 7½" total wide. Barely fits 195/70-14, Maybe 205/60-15. (205 Tread is ~ 7" but sidewalls 8+".) Does anyone ever put bigger OEM GT Rear, 215/60-15, there? Maybe either/both: . 8" to 9" total width but only flat so can squeeze the sidewalls. . 25" or bit more but only flat so can squeeze the height.
If you have the power trunk options... the solenoid take up some space and maybe problems w/ maximum size flat tires.
I bet most w/ wider and/or taller tires never tried that until after a flat and can't get in there or can't close the trunk lid.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 05-24-2021).]
Fine fine fine. Because we are out here in the weeds. Lets just go ahead and get a trailer hitch for your Fiero an get one of these to tuck up with the spare tire... or heck if you want just get a full size spare and leave it on the hitch all the time.
Fine fine fine. Because we are out here in the weeds. Lets just go ahead and get a trailer hitch for your Fiero an get one of these to tuck up with the spare tire... or heck if you want just get a full size spare and leave it on the hitch all the time.
This is similar to what I was meaning to post earlier in this thread, just the part that installs into the hitch was slightly longer I believe. Snapperhead use to produce a hidden hitch for behind the license plate. I saw one of these at a show the guy had the tire carrier piece mounted in the front compartment. If you have a flat you can install it in the hidden hitch spot and mount your wheel to it so you can get to a tire shop.
